Looking for a Second-Hand Family Car for Towing, Budget $20- $25K, Suggestions?

Hi all,
I’d like your advice on my next car purchase. I’m looking to buy a second-hand vehicle suitable for family use and towing (a boat or camper trailer). I’ve narrowed it down to the following options and would really appreciate your thoughts or suggestions:

  1. Volkswagen Touareg V6 (around 2014): Great towing capability, diesel with air suspension. The interior feels spacious but a bit plain.
  2. Audi SQ5 (around 2014): Diesel and quite powerful. Smaller size makes it easier to park. Towing capacity isn’t as strong as the others (about 2 tonnes), but that might not be an issue.
  3. Mercedes GL350 / GLS 350d: Strong diesel engine (OM642), plenty of space for family trips or camping further afield. Good towing ability, though its size could make parking more difficult.

It’ll mainly be a family car for commuting to the train station and towing a boat or camper trailer. I’m set on getting a diesel for now. I understand that second-hand cars can come with repair costs, but I’m comfortable doing some maintenance myself.

From your experience, which of these models do you think would be the most reliable and enjoyable to drive?

Thanks in advance!

Comments

Search through all the comments in this post.
  • +31

    Out of that lot I'd choose the Toyota Camry. If you have a big boat then a Kluger, if you have your heart set on diesel get a Hilux and finally if your boat is massive then get a Landcruiser.

    • Toyota Master Race!

      • It’s one of the few choices where the boat is getting towed, rather than the car getting towed home.

        • Yeah, I wasn't even being funny with that, you really can't argue with the reliability of Toyotas.

    • On the money!

  • +45

    None of those. Reliability, longevity, parts costs, resale value are all poor. Towing with EU vehicles in Australia is a recipe for overheating and transmission issues.

    You'll need way more than 2 tonnes of towing capacity if you're going to tow any sort of half decent camper trailer.

    Honestly, buy the newest/lowest KM Pajero you can for your money. You could also look at Prados, but you won't get as much value there.

    And for the love of God, don't buy a Jeep.

    I'm a Toyota guy, by the way.

    • +3

      Hard disagree with the need for "way more than 2T capacity".
      Old mate can size up his camper needs and determine what's required, 2T ATM gets you a lot in the camper trailer space.

      If he can make a lower towing capacity work for his needs, opens up a lot more vehicle options over buying a clapped out Prado for 20K.

      I'm rocking a 2010 Diesel sorento, 2T rating, comfortably towed a 1.8T caravan ~4000km this year.
      20K would buy you a niiiice vehicle with 2T capacity VS what you'd be able to buy with 3-3.5T capacity.

      Give a sorento a look in, this one we have won't die, we do service it properly but damn it's been through a lot and hasn't wavered, 15yo car now. You'd be able to get a pretty new one for 20K.

      • I don't think OP could relate to a 15yo Korean interior. Lol

        • +4

          Nor would I suggest a 15yo kia, wasn't that old when I bought it.

          25K gets you a 2020 diesel sorento with respectable KMs. The same money gets you a clapped out 2016 prado with ~400k on the clock.

          Like I said, if OP has a 25K budget and 2T is all they need to tow (sounds like it is) , then there are way better options than a rooted prado, like the sorento I've used a example I'm familiar with. Generally better fuel effeciency too.

      • -1

        Have you looked at the camper trailer market lately? 2t is the absolute minimum. It's not like the old days of a box trailer with a tent on the top.

        • It really isn't? Jayco are one of the biggest and the only one I've used to fact check what you're saying, their entire camper trailer range is below 2T:

          https://www.jayco.com.au/range/camper-trailers

          Swift: 940–1,050 kg (tare), 1,240–1,300 kg (ATM)Lark: 980–1,050 kg (tare), 1,250–1,300 kg (ATM)Wren: 940–1,050 kg (tare), 1,240–1,300 kg (ATM)Swan: 1,086–1,207 kg (tare), 1,410–1,449 kg (ATM)Penguin: 940–1,050 kg (tare), 1,240–1,300 kg (ATM)

  • +7

    How did you shortlist these options, out of curiosity? Generally speaking, out of warranty Euro cars can (potentially) be a nightmare in terms of reliability and repair costs. I don't think any 2.5 tonne SUV would be fun to drive either, so I'd consider something boring and reliable (potentially Japanese or Korean).

    Or alternatively, get an AU wagon and pocket the $20k /s

    • +7

      Just get 3 AU wagons

    • Just looking for a European diesel car that’s comfortable to drive and looks decent. I currently have a Mercedes B-Class with 250,000 km on the clock, and it’s still going strong — but unfortunately, it’s not suitable for towing.

      I understand the potential reliability issues and higher repair costs with some EU cars, which is why I’m asking for suggestions.

      • +4

        Why are you so set on european diesels, though? They tend to be far, far less reliable than japanese diesels.

        I get the feeling that you're going for some sort of 'look'. My advice is to forget the look and go for something reliable and more economical. Owning a 4x4 is already an expensive undertaking, even if it's reliable. Tyres, fuel, insurance etc are all expensive. The last thing you want is for the thing to be at the mechanic regularly, and there's a decent chance of that with the vehicles you're looking at.

        • +2

          My guess is generic thoughts of "status" that certain people seem to associate with them. (Who usually have no class are just arrogant pricks LOL)

    • +1

      How did you shortlist these options, out of curiosity?

      Me must have a mechanic friend that gave him a list.

  • +3

    Get an Isuzu mu-x (you might be able to find a 2016-2018 model) for around $25k

    • +2

      If I recall correctly it was around late 2016 that Isuzu added the DPF into the MU-X and also switched to a different turbos. Those turbos are known to fail regularly, so if getting the MU-X get one of the earlier models without the DPF. Need to be careful though as the bodies were known to crack in the inner wheel gaurd in the engine bay.

      • The new shape MUX is a much nicer vehicle. I dont image many woukd cross shop euro luzury with the 1st gen MUX, its a bit truck like.

  • +16

    The old adage is that if you can't afford to buy a new Euro wagon (Volkswagen/Audi/Mercedes), then you can't afford to buy a secondhand one.

  • +9

    I’ve narrowed it down to the following options

    3x 10+ year old euro models.
    I'll choose door #4 thanks.

    Towing caravan and boats, there's a reason you see Isuzu, Mitsubishi, ford, and Toyotas everywhere towing such things. All likely much newer options, more widely available spare parts, and lower running costs.

    • +9

      door #4

      Behind door #4 we have a Holden Craptiva

      • +3

        I’d tow something with this before the OP’s options - at least with a Craptiva you won’t have spent as much to blow up a transmission

        • +5

          With the way a Craptiva drives you would be relived for a blown transmission.

  • +3

    Is the sq5 transmission good enough for towing?

    I'd be choosing a torque converter box over a dsg any day of the week for towing.

    I'd get a Ford Territory. If you're really desperate for a Euro get a gen 1 Porsche Cayenne Turbo S.

    I'm calling this a troll post. No one narrows their primary tow vehicle down to 3 10+ year old Euros. FFS.

    • The Ford Territory has a terrible interior — even when it was new 15 years ago, it wasn’t great. I thought the SQ5 used a ZF transmission rather than the DSG found in other Q5s. Still, I’m not completely convinced the SQ5 is good for towing. I’m mainly looking at European cars that feel a bit more refined and relatable.

      • +4

        When you're 500km from home towing a camper trailer you shouldn't be giving two hoots about a relatable interior.

        It's all about reliability and parts availability. FFS.

        I thought the SQ5 used a ZF transmission rather than the DSG found in other Q5

        In hindsight I think you're right. It's tiptronic?

        • Well yes, but at the same time, interior should be comfortable enough for you to be able to get 500Km from home. With all plastic cracking and terrible seats I’m not too sure.

        • +1

          Anyone using the term 'tiptronic' should refrain from giving automotive advice. Or at the very least stay away from transmission debates.

          In saying that, I never imagined OP would have this list of cars in the tow vehicle shortlist.
          Diesel station car is also a bad choice (especially with a dpf). Unless it sees some decent long drives every other weekend.

          • @Wnabet: Why? Isn't that how it's referred to in the sq5 just like Porsche did in the 964, 993, 996 before going PDK?

            Or can I not mention PDK around here without a trigger alert and making you feel all sad?

      • +2

        Can you explain the relatable part?

    • +4

      Calling this out as a troll post and then recommending a Territory (for towing? What?) and a f'ing porsche???

      I'm calling this a troll reply.

      • Nah. Legit reply.

        Territory is more than fine for towing. I'd go this one. Barra powered so any mechanic in Australia knows it inside out, parts are inexpensive and plentiful, 2300kg capacity, long wheel base and a few nice luxuries, albeit a bit dated.

        OP seemed hellbent on a Euro so if you're going down that route then do it properly so yes a f'ing Porsche Gen 1 Cayenne Turbo S is perfect. Monster v8 - 500+hp 700+nm, strong transmission, legit low range for deeper exploring out bush, locking diffs, 3500kg towing and air suspension for load levelling. Bloody awesome tow vehicle in my opinion. I would offer this seller $30k and I reckon they would take it.

        • +3

          The Cayennes are absolutely insane and people snub up their nose at Euro "4WDs" but it's been just as reliable as my mate's LandCruiser and far comfier. We have second gen so no low-range box but crossed low rivers in it and done moderate offroading with no issues.

          We've got the twin-turbo diesel V8 so get around <7L/100km highway and ~9L/100km city, tows 3.5T and you can actually still accelerate towing a van lol. Tuned to 250kW and 650nm atw with over 260k kms on the clock. Absolutely 0 engine or suspension problems with regular servicing

          Parts can be expensive but you either get them from FCP Euro if you have time (like brake discs) or get the Tourag equivalent part from VW. If there's a VW dealership, you can basically get anything next day. And not like it's that much more expensive than Toyota parts…

          • +1

            @DreadPirateRoberts: yeah, v8, almost 5L and petrol, he'll be crying the moment he take the camper on the freeway and will be in constant search for nearest servo every 30 min.

        • They even have a fire extinguisher inside the cabin for when it catches on fire.

          https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/gallery/SSE-AD-18733917/?va…

  • +3

    Local VW dealer has a lemon VW parked out the front with Don’t buy a VW signs on it. Could be100,000 cars a day going past it lol

  • +4

    lol is this a joke post?

    They’rel terrible options for towing.

    As above Stick to Isuzu,Toyota, Mitsubishi, ford unless you’re willing to pay for transmissions to get a euro

    • +1

      ESP if towing a half decent boat … (going by OP's posts it won't be dinghy / small boat).

      EDIT … while I dislike mitsi with a passion …
      In terms of transmission/drive-train … They did actually invest alot of $$$ into R&D into that side of things.

      Their engines/etc are top notch … Just not other things.

    • -1

      Haha, many touaregs towing 3.5t vans around Australia as we speak.

      • +1

        Yep, and includes me.
        35k klms so far pulling 3T. Does it easily and reliably as are many in the owners FB group.
        All the experts who dont own one or have an imaginary mate who has one telling you not to, stay in your own lane.

  • +6

    Volks + Audi + Merc.

    Wow OP - you really have limited your choices there - haven't you. IMO … NONE of these suit your use case.

    Best of luck.

  • +3

    An 11 year old German car, terrible idea

    • More like OP posting this in a toyota (ozb) forum was the terrible idea.

  • -1

    VW Touareg, but go for 2015+ facelift, a few benefits. I've had 4 of these things, they are great

    People here will cry about this because they had a bad experience with a 118tsi DSG golf, and have no idea what a Touareg actually is.

    • +3

      have no idea what a Touareg actually is.

      Poor man's Cayenne/Q7?

      • +3

        More that it's an excellent V6 diesel, 8 speed conventional auto, and great at towing. But yes it is the same as a cayenne/q7, and the later ones are also a urus and bentayga.

        Used, Q7s are generally cheaper, and cayennes roughly the same price. The Touareg had the advantage of not having the hideous interior of the Audi, and all 2013+ 180kw versions have air suspension, something that was an option on the others.

    • +4

      I've had 4 of these things, they are great

      ROFL - Are you being serious? The way its written, it could imply thats one every 2 years, hows that for indications of reliability?

      That joke aside,

      4 of these cars in max of 22 years is 5 years each, not a strong indicator of reliability for someone investigating buying a 10 year old version.

      • +1

        ILol, I've had probably 40+ cars. I've had two of these that I've had as daily drivers, two as flips. I'm a mechanic, these things are great.

        • +2

          I'm a mechanic, these things are great.

          Keeping you in business no doubt /s

    • The chap is the warhouse 3 doors from us just traded his silver Touareg for a BYD.
      Besides loosing a fortune in value the servicing cost were astronomical.
      He now want to trade his wife's Merc hatch for a BYD.
      He never had a 18tsi DSG golf so can't comment on that.

      • -1

        If you are stupid enough to take anything to the dealer for servicing the service costs are astronomical. 8l of oil and a filter. Fuel and air filters every second service. Truly terrible 😂.

        • +1

          Oh dear, I must be stupid for using Toyota's fixed price servicing.

          • @ytthr: Does Toyota do fixed price servicing for 10 year old vehicles? As that's what we're discussing here.

            • @brendanm: Seriously!

              • @ytthr: Yeah seriously, apparently it's for up to the first five years, so not sure of the relevance to this thread.

  • +4

    If u buy any of the above, you need a 3rd japanese vehicle to tow them all.

  • +2

    Hiw big/heavy is the load you are towing? Maybe a Santa Fe or Sorrento if what you are towing isnt too heavy.

    Plenty of others have chimed in, but for 10yo, Japanese or Korean is the answer. Parts are typically cheaper and every mechnic has worked on them.

  • +10

    Never, ever buy a Euro car on a budget.

    I don't think Euro cars are necessarily "bad", but they are over-engineered with a lot of bells and whistles that can go wrong, and usually are not designed with easy servicing in mind.

    One of my uncles was an engineer with one of the major car manufactures. He basically put it best by saying that the differences between Japanese and Euro cars are that Japanese cars put reliability above all else, and Euro cars put engineering above all else. It's also the case that Europe has significantly more environmental and safety regulations than most other places around the world, so cars that are produced primarily for the European market need to be more complex to meet those regulations.

    For example, having tiny engines with turbos is very common in European cars because they're better for emissions standards, but are, in reality, less reliable than a traditional NA 4 cylinder, or V6 engine. It's these same decisions, but multiplied - motorised tailgate is nice until the motor burns out, 20 speakers is nice until one stops working, plastic in the engine bay is nice (as it's lighter, so better fuel efficiency) until it gets brittle and cracks.

    I've owned plenty of Euro cars, and they're great, but they're not for people who are cheap. If you're deadset on owning a S-Class or something, and that's your dream, then it'll be a great car, but it's not for people shopping on a budget. The "best car for $25k" will never be a Euro car. There's plenty of alternatives, in the worst case, just get an old Landcruiser Prado - easy to work on, no frills, great for what you need.

    • This.

      If you just want a Euro that’s absolutely fine, and I’m with OP on the interiors (generally). But double the budget either for repairs/preventative maintenance or buy a newer, better example. Buying a ‘cheap’ one with poor maintenance is a terrible idea.

  • Late model LR2, 2.2 litre diesel. Great tow-ers and filled with Ford parts which make them reasonable for maintenance…

  • What weight do you want to tow ?
    Motor vehicle manufacturers are generally not truthful when quoting the real world towing capacity of vehicles they sell . The quoted towing capacity is usually assuming there is only a minimum load in the vehicle like no passenger and not even full fuel tank.
    Also manufactures of caravans and camper trailers are notorious for understating the real weights of there products when in use.
    The consequence of driving an over weight rig is your insurance will not be valid and you can be prosecuted by the transport authority. At the moment it is such a big problem that when a vehicle towing a caravan is in a crash the first thing insurance companies do is weigh them as current statistics show that the majority of caravan towing rigs on the road at the moment are overweight and unlawful.

    So.. make sure you really understand what the weight of the camper you want to tow is. Many sold these days are as heavy as a caravan. Also ensure you fully understand the towing capacity of your tow vehicle.

    https://l2sfbc.com/towing-weights-calculator-help/

  • +3

    Why not get this Land Rover Caravan Combo

    • Great example of the typical state of a Landrover 😀. There is a very good reason you do not see many !androvers ( or Jeeps) being used in remote and rural parts of Australia…

  • +3

    Did this post really need AI?

    As always, the answer is an AU Falcon.

    • +1

      have you seen the prices people want for Falcon's nowadays?

      prices

  • -1

    Petrol kluger. Yes extra fuel cost but offset by less cost to service.
    Diesel nowadays are not like they used to be.
    Speaking with recent close experience with a Prado that needs an engine after a piston let go.
    It will be a >$10k repair.

    • Petrol cars are not ideal for towing. A diesel is far better for the job (there's a reason why locomotive engines, road trains, etc are diesel powered).

      • Petrol cars are not ideal for towing

        Only because they are more thirsty. Otherwise, petrol is fine.

  • +1

    You definitely need to nail down the size & weight of the camper and boat you're planning to tow. Almost anything will tow a tinny or a little camper trailer.

  • +1

    Get yourself a 2014 Toyota Kluger and have it rebadged with a Mercedes logo. A good way to ween off the need to be seen driving a german car.

    • The only catch with the Kluger is the out of control fuel consumption, add towing to the scenario would be crazy.

  • If you work on things yourself or have a mechanic you trust then a Touareg or an Audi Q are not as scary as people are making out. VWs can be a bit finicky but with a few useful tools (VCDS namely) they will be fine and way more plush and enjoyable than a lot of the other suggestions here.

    The other end of the spectrum for pure practicality is clearly an AU falcon wagon. I'd ignore everything else in the middle, but maybe I'm a sucker.

  • +1

    100% it's going to cost you more than $20- $25k after you buy

  • +3

    Take a look at https://redriven.com

    Find your models, and then make an informed decision.

    • +1 for redriven.

      On their recent cars I’ve seen with them the ssanyong Ute looks like a good option for your use case, and the Mitsubishi challenger.

      Above post also mentioned a Porsche diesel. I’ve never heard anything bad about porches other than the cost and should be very nice interior. Worth a look?

      We don’t drive on autobahn so don’t need the precise engineering in German cars so much. Those speeds give you respect for the design and stance of an Audi A8 for instance.

      What is op experience working on cars? I don’t but I’d want to start on something very easy when/if I do. Like a Hyundai Getz with lots of online guides and support on how to fix stuff. Some vehicles can seem to put stuff in places you can’t fix without special tools and stuff. Simple is better here.

  • +1

    I bought a 2014 180kw Touareg a few years back, it's a great car to drive around town and on long trips. Mindful of the issues that can arise with these things I also purchased an after market warranty equivalent to a factory new car warranty, 5 years for around $1500. I've used it twice, first for an alternator $2k, then for an injector at $1400 odd (couldn't get them to do all 6 but the precedent is there for any future failures.)

    I get all the arguments for more "reliable" brands but even though I'm a hard core ozbargainer I'm also a car enthusiast and I wanted skids that I really like, not every decision has to be underpinned by the almighty dollar, all the best whatever you choose!

  • Lost me the moment you tried to blend aesthetics into towing ability….(It's challenging anyway)

    Edit - fwiw my old man has owned a few touaregs in a row (all from new) and whilst they're nice to drive for a bit car and he does tow light loads (trailer and glider) regularly even he would concede they've been rather expensive to own.

    Probably depends on your blend of appetite re ownership cost, frequency of towing and miles when you aren't towing.

    • +1

      Lost me the moment you tried to blend aesthetics into towing ability

      I assumed he actually meant having a car that's nice to drive and comfortable to carry a family around in the rest of the time, when it's not towing. On that benchmark, I can understand a preference for the more refined interiors and better dynamics of Euro vehicles.

  • BMW X5 is probably the least shit option in the 10 year oldish diesel euro that can tow category.

    • Best to carry some spare fluids as they like to leak, the toyota 4x4's use more steel vs aluminum.

  • +1

    Any of those are good for towing and will need to towed regularly.

    Also don't forget to pay for the turn signal subscription.

  • -4

    People overestimate the reliability of Japanese cars, I heard Chinese cars were just as good if not better in every way, selling well in Australia.

    And European cars are apparently better than Chinese made vehicles.

  • +1

    boat or camper trailer

    Do you own these already OP?

  • Pajero

Login or Join to leave a comment