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Click 2.06kW Portable Air Conditioner $199 + Delivery ($0 C&C/ in-Store/ OnePass) @ Bunnings

180

Opening the link incognito seems to work

Features:

  • 2.06KW cooling power
  • Window kit included
  • Digital display control panel & remote control
  • 3 modes: Cool | Dehumidifying | Fan

The Click 2.06KW Portable Air Conditioner has a user-friendly digital display control panel and remote control, it's easy to adjust settings to your preference. Equipped with a window kit for convenient setup, this air conditioner offers three modes—cool, dehumidifying, and fan—making it a versatile solution for any season. Perfect for beating the heat and improving air quality at home or in the office.

Matching Aldi's offering

Was $279 Thanks to Pricehipster

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Comments

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  • -1

    No longer available

      • +1

        It says "couldn't find stock levels for that try again later"

        Your post link says "Oops! This product is no longer available.
        We searched 'Click 2.06KW Portable Air Conditioner' to find similar."

        But the person telling you that is getting neg'd, so people must be getting different results

      • I managed to get it to actually show the product listing after refreshing a bunch of times, but it had another error message saying unable to show stock levels

        EDIT: Using duckuckgo browser on android

  • +2

    Is this the type that sucks hot air into the room by creating a vacuum?

    • +3

      Yes, single hose to the window.
      https://device.report/manual/8103137

      The air blown out is hotter that that sucked in, but its not very efficient.

    • +5

      easy to make your own 2 hose system for $40 with ebay/aliexpress parts
      https://ibb.co/TDJBST4Q
      the shorter the intake hose the better

      • +5

        Thanks, puffy vulva

      • Do you have photos of the backside of the portable AC? How do you connect the inlet pipe?

        • Plastic box approx same size as air intake, cut a hole in the plastic box for the return air tube, seal with duct tape.

        • i cant remember exactly what i did but i bought a 15cm diameter hose and 2 of the big square hose adapters then dremeled the locking grooves off it so it sat flush and put a couple screws in then duct taped the gaps.
          obviously look before you go screwing into your unit to make sure you're not going to hit anything inside.
          https://ibb.co/cSktnd3b

          • @Puffy Vulva: Cool, Thank you. Might look into doing it.

          • @Puffy Vulva: And what's the benefit of doing this…?
            I can't see dehumidifier working too well that's 30% loss of functionality

            There was mention earlier of pressure differential, but we're talking mechanical and aerodynamic loss. It can only suck slightly less than it blows, but I'd much prefer my internal air be used than the hotter drier air outside.

            Shorter the exhaust also seems to be the logical choice given it carries the hot air out… The longer that tube is in the house the more it'll increase the heat…
            Sell me on why I'd be better off, and when mine arrives I'll get onto 3D Printing fittings for it - ozbargain only release

      • i feel like an idiot… How is this any better? The air going into the system is the hot air from the outside, still, but now it's just more direct (i.e. there's no more vaccuum) - the inefficiency is still there.

        …but the vaccuum is not there; is this the point?

        • +1

          The vaccum is, as I learned a significant inefficiency, in the range of 30-50%

    • -1

      Exactly the same as a split system

      • +1

        No. In a split system, the evaporator / condenser are outside, so you don't have to deal with any vaccuums…? Or am i missing something

  • Cooling Power: 2.05KW

    Rated Cooling Capacity: 7000BTU
    Power Consumption: 792W

  • They dont work dont waste your money

    • Nothing compared to reverse cycle. These does take the edge of a small room. Just don't expect wonders. In a hot day high 30s expect high 20s as lowest you get. Won't go much lower.

  • I had portable aircon before, it works but its very loud and this unit is too weak with 7000btu. You should go with at least 12000btu even for a small room imo

    • For that cost better to get box aircon

    • I agree with your statement. I don't think anyone will be happy with this unit. You definitely cannot sleep with it, and the cooling capacity is poor at best.

  • I agree pay the extra for a larger btu model, I went from a 3kw to a 4.3kw model and the power consumption is nearly identical but the 4.3kw cools better

  • Does the window kit work with awning windows?

    • No. But bunnings likely stocks them as I grabbed one in the clearance bin cuz it was missing the hose

  • Went to bunnings yesterday, Edwarsdtown SA. We're in stock but priced at $269.

    Can seem to order on Bunnings Website

    https://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/385227/125219/img_2025…

  • +1

    I don't know anything about this particular unit, but they generally work very poorly.

    The main problem is that when set to cooling mode, they don't remove hot air efficiently for many reasons.

    Eg: Long exhaust hose or hose is not "smooth" but "unfolded" because it's designed to be folded to be shorter (best to cut it to size once you have it in place) or hose is too narrow.

    Also the exhaust is often blocked, either by the windows kit (especially those which "flatten" to fit the window instead of directing the whole diameter of the hose to the window.

    Many units have been designed with the exhaust hose as an afterthought. Eg the part of the air conditioner which is connected to the hose is partially obstructed, eg by having that part of the unit in the shape of many small holes/sqaares/etc.

    The hot air exhaust is usually partially blocked by an insect screen (which should only be needed when the unit is off, otherwise, when working the air flow should prevent insects getting inside.

    Or the exhaust hose is either leaking hot air into the room, or the hose is not thermally insulated (often it's just a plastic hose which gets hot and acts as a radiant heater).

    Plus other design problems. Remember that you need proper exhaust of the heat generated inside the unit, this is THE main reason most of these either do not work at all or work very poorly. Properly designed exhaust system ensures maximum efficiency.

    A lot of these problems can be fixed at home, just remember to unplug the unit from power when working anywhere inside the unit.

    • +1

      The other colossal problem, is the single exhaust pipe means they continually pump air out of the room.

      So new hot air continually flows into the room to replace the air that just left !!

      By simply having the unit turned on, your room starts sucking hot air in.

      • True. Recycling the air in the room would help too.

        • +1

          Except they can't… The condenser is housed within the unit thus making it a portable A/C.

          If you don't like it, your only option is a split system, such named because the heat luml/condenser are split from the outlet.

          These recirculate internal air over refrigerant coils for cooling (as does the portable), but the condenser lives outside.
          During heating, external air is heated and pumped in.

          ~Everyone keeps screaming about this negative pressure system, but it's really not that big of a deal - especially compared to the cost of the alternative. ~

          I stand corrected. I will honour my word, and generate 3D models for fitting intake piping and a window fitting.

          PM me to register for the exclusive single run intake fittings. Happy to freely distribute the files for DIY printers, as well as print & post at cost price (~$15-20 + $15ish post I imagine.

          As has been noted, simply replacing the outlet piping to a thermally insulated ( starting at $25 through to $60 for heavy duty), or purchasing a thermal cover for one. Though the notion of connecting the inlet to the outside I do not understand.

          As for the fitting oblong to the window…. The area of a 5in pipe compared to the oblong is 25% larger, which still isn't that great, but that by absolutely no means translates to 25% output loss. This is what's known as "minor losses" in fluid dynamics as applied to HVAC systems.

          IF the 5in pipe came to an abrupt oblong, the pressure differential is a whopping 8%. Given the fitting follows the principles of ideal design of transition between these shapes, this number becomes** 3% of the velocity pressure loss** due to the outlet.

          A short video lesson on how pipework and other components can effect airflow in HVAC systems

          These are brilliant dehumidifiers, and at this price point a no brainier if you're in the market for a dehumidifier.

    • As for the fitting oblong to the window…. The area of a 5in pipe compared to the oblong is 25% larger, which still isn't that great, but that by absolutely no means translates to 25% output loss. This is what's known as "minor losses" in fluid dynamics as applied to HVAC systems.

      IF the 5in pipe came to an abrupt oblong, the pressure differential is a whopping 8%. Given the fitting follows the principles of ideal design of transition between these shapes, this number becomes** 3% of the velocity pressure loss** due to the outlet.

      A short video lesson(youtube.com) on how pipework and other components can effect airflow in HVAC systems

      I will add since you raised it, and I left it out of my full post below, with regard to the flyscreen… No doubt dismissed by majority as being a problem…. This is by far the largest possible exhaust flow impact element.

      At best, with Std AU 16x18 mesh, reduces the flow by an additional 35%! That's off the showroom floor, not covered in dust pollen and all sorts…

      Reiterating BooYa's statement;

      ~A lot of~ All these problems can be fixed at home, just remember to unplug the unit from power when working anywhere inside the unit.

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