New to cycling? Buying a road bike? Money saving tips

It seems that everyone's getting on the Tour de France peloton hype now that it's under way. It's always great to see new people getting into the sport, whether it's for commuting, recreational or competitive cycling. Above all there's the health benefits and you get to have a great time on your bike. Since the OzB community has saved me lots of money, as well as seeing many of my mates interested in taking up cycling, here's some money saving tips for newcomers:

Before buying
If you're thinking of buying a road bike from your local bike shop (LBS) now, don't. Clearance happens during late spring/early summer. You'll get a much better deal when they're trying to get rid of the current year models (but for first time cyclists, 2nd hand might be more value for money). The later you buy, the more room you'll be able to haggle. At the same time, nothing's there to stop you from walking into a bike shop right now and purchasing your dream machine.

Ask for a test ride and size you up. Standard procedures apply, like "I'll think about it" and don't be afraid to walk away and go back later. Ring up a few LBS and check their prices to give you more leverage. However, there's a delicate balance between getting the model (and the correct size) you want and the number of available stock. I got mine when there is only one left in the country (pure luck or true ozbargainer?) — after calling all of the dealers of a particular brand in the state, one rang back days later saying that they found it from another dealer interstate, so you know the pre-haggle price couldn't be much lower.

After that, ask for a package deal to throw in accessories such as pedals, helmets, shoes, bidons (bottle cages), lights, pumps, locks and if you fancy a bike computer/GPS, saddle bag and some tools. They add up quite substantially, so make sure you get only what you need and have a budget in mind.

Buying your first kit
It might be a good a good idea to buy from your LBS to get the right fit. That includes jersey, bibs, gloves and socks (though any sock would usually suffice). After that it's up to you, LBS or overseas. Sizes differ between brands.

Don't fall for marketing
Two of my mates who work at LBSs (a real local store and another's a franchise) have told me about their marketing blitz… They've recently been hiring more sales assistants for the TDF hype. There's gonna be a lot of ads on print, online and tv… they'll make you feel like a pro on your couch! Some have events like watching a few stages of the TDF in the stores at night, dinners and night rides etc, all designed to get you spend more. They will upsell and will show you claims about how much lighter, stiffer, more aero, R&D bla bla bla. A lot of stock bikes come with base component to keep the sticker price low, but they want you to upgrade before you even ride home. A few grams less will cost you $$$ more. It's absolutely needless until you have built up the strength to climb and want to go competitive. Just stick within your budget.

Online shopping
If you read around there's been a lot of discussion about shopping from overseas retailers. Components, accessories and kits are significantly cheaper abroad, provided that you're willing to wait for about 2 weeks for shipping. These stores usually have good discounts (via min spend coupons advertised on the store's front page) towards the end of the TDF, and another clearance towards Q4 when the three grand tours come to an end. When shopping for kits just take note the particular style/size may be low in stock. Shipping is typically free above a minimum amount spent. Buying bikes and kits online isn't always cheap if you get the wrong size and have to return the item.

Use Frugalrouleur.com to compare between these stores though sometimes things won't show up due to the stores not entering the item names exactly. Sometimes I get slightly used components on eBay for less than half price because the sellers simply didn't want them any more.

Bike maintenance
Learn the basics from more experienced friends or online. Usually that'll solve 95% of your problems. It's quite often cheaper to buy the parts and fix the problem yourself. Just a disclaimer that if you DIY, without expert knowledge, proper training and confidence, messing up your bike will be more expensive and more time consuming to take it to the shop to have that fixed. You are also responsible for your safety and warranty issues. Look around, Bicycle Queensland (I assume other states have something equivalent) and/or many LBS offer free basic maintenance workshops (at the same time they'll try to sell you some tools). Queensland's TMR give out free puncture repair kits, maps and those ubiquitous orange backpacks at several cycling advocacy events including the annual Ride to Work Day.

Cleaning your chains - the $0.75 duster pan set from BigW is excellent to brush off the dirt on the cassette and chains. Get a chain cleaner (those blue ones) on eBay for a few bucks. Ones in LBS go for $$$. One litre dishwashing liquid for $1 at Coles/WW (or sometimes when it's really dirty - turpentine) works well as opposed to some special blend degreasers that costs $$$. Cleaning the drivechain regularly can prolong the lifespan of said system.

If you do have to take your bike in to get it serviced, make sure you get the exact cost for parts and labour on paper. Again, ring up a few stores and see which will give you the cheapest labour. Once I had a store that didn't bother tightening the chainring and crank bolts (yeah the entire cranks could've fallen off) and charged me double for labour. Also take note that like some dodgy car dealerships, they want you to change parts long before they even need replacing by claiming that something's not right with it, usually complemented with a horror story. Have a trusted and experienced friend to check it out. Read online for typical parts mileage.

Tyres
Really. Get decent tyres. They're worth the money. Conti's GP4000S or Michelin Pro 4 Service Course. Not some fancy "tubeless" tyres the shop wants you to buy. Cheaper tyres don't last long, aren't grippy enough in the wet/cornering and easily get punctured.

Locks
Get a decent solid D lock and a cable with a loop on both ends. E.g. Kryptonite. Learn how to lock it properly — google Sheldon Brown's method. Nothing's worse than a stolen bike. Jot down your frame serial.

Glasses
Any sunnies as a newbie would do, they're there to protect your eyes from the sun during dusk/dawn, and more importantly from debris. I've got a pair of adidas that costed $$$, but recently snatched up a pair of Bolle safety glasses (I think they're called the Sidewinder). Seriously, they're so cheap (~$13 on eBay) but works well, looks good, lightweight and I couldn't care less. Comes in clear, ESP and smoke. The former two are good for winter rides. Only downside is that it doesn't have anti fog coating.

Finally got your bike?
Clock up some experience and skills with shop rides and friends. Some bike shops charge for beginner shop rides (seriously?), but most don't. Just rock up and introduce yourself. Obey the road rules and cycling etiquette. Don't give cyclists stigmas for running red lights. Have coffee and some food before you leave home, because quite often after shoppies they take you to cafes, and every now and then these $5-$10 all add up.

I once saw a sales rep chatting to a new guy (who had an old bike) asking him if he'd like to upgrade his bike whilst doing a river loop shop ride. I thought that's a bit blatant… When attending these rides, quite often you'll see many bling bikes. Don't feel the urge to upgrade if your friends or the sales have better bikes. Reps pay staff price and prey on insecurity. Don't think that you can't keep up with the group or something… they'll wait for everyone on shop rides. If they drop someone they're losing customers. Bikes can only do so much; it's all down to you and your legs. So keep training.

Don't ride in the rain, unless you're paid to do so. No need to display how badass you are. It's easy to crash and burn in the wet and get back home (or to work) with a frozen and s**tty face. If the route is safe, ride to work. There's even more incentive to do so if your work has a safe place to lock up the bike and/or showers.

Use Google Maps (check cycling friendly paths), Strava, Ride With GPS to discover new routes.

Got questions?
If you find this thread helpful but have something in mind, feel free to ask. I just don't like people getting ripped off by LBS especially at this time of the year.

Edit: revised Finally got your bike section, bike maintenance, don't fall for marketing

Comments

  • some great tips.

    Agree with buying a bike later in the (calendar) year. Bought mine in October last year - was a 2011 model carbon frame bike with 105 gearing for $1750. RRP at launch was $4K, 2012 models were being run-out at $3,200.

  • +1

    "One litre dishwashing liquid for $1 at Coles/WW (or sometimes when it's really dirty - turpentine) works well as opposed to some special blend degreasers that costs $$$."

    Thats the biggest no-no going around! get some proper de-greaser, I prefer the bio stuff purely because its better on my hands…dishwashing liquid is corrosive and the chain is a set of rollers, the rest is self explanatory! Lube and de-greasers are an absolute no-skimp product as they protect the heart of the bike.
    Seriously trust me!

    Re tyres "Conti's GP4000S"
    You're spot on, the contis are the absolute benchmark love them to bits, Probikekit or wiggle always have them cheap (~$35-$38)

    They will upsell and will show you claims about how much lighter, stiffer, more aero, R&D … It's absolutely needless until you have built up the strength to climb and want to go competitive. Just stick within your budget.

    Again I totally disagree…aside from the more aero which is just a massive joke unless youre TT'ing. However being lighter and stiffer is afterall being lighter and stiffer, being lighter and stiffer makes climbing easier (less weight, less flex) no matter how new or seasoned a cyclist you are.

    Regarding components, PERSONALLY due to the affordability factor you cant look past Shimano Ultegra:

    At the moment the difference in price between the two cassettes is only ~$13, between the two cranks is $~47, between the brakes is $~12, I have picked up ultegra chains for $24 from wiggle. So for another ~$75 you get the next level equipment with a considerable weight saving for under $100. Finally with regard to the shifters/brake leavers, the 105's are great and do the job well.

    Looking at wheels, well thats a whole new can of worms, as its a major place you can lose or gain weight on your bike…

    I've ridden everything i mention above and currently own a full carbon ultegra Di2 road bike (Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheelset) so I can honestly say I believe in the product.

    I've currently done over 4,500km on my ultegra chain in 8 months or so cleaning it every week and it still going, need anymore be said!

    hope this helps any more questions let me know!

    • +2

      For the dishwashing liquid, that's fine provided that you wash it off thoroughly, preferably with a hose with a nozzle attached. I used degreasers before, but after trying out dishwashing liquid I'm too cheap to go back. Before I made the switch I asked around and read on several forums. What I'd watch out is turpentine. While it does the job you have to get it off completely with another wash with dw liquid otherwise it'll squeak the next day.

      As for the marketing crap, believe it with a pinch of salt. Don't get me wrong, lighter and stiffer translates to better performance, but when I wrote this post I was aiming for newcomers so that they know they shouldn't fall into the trap and blow their budget. It's really easy for a bike sales to say, aw, it's not much to upgrade here and there, but when you ride home you end up spending more than you have planned for. //Edit: I like the fact that you've pointed out for <$100 you'd get a nice upgrade, but that's online pricing though, so when you buy a bike from the LBS you will not get that sort of upgrade at that price.

      IMHO if you want a $5k+ bike, maybe first settle in on something less and really take time to decide and build up some skills. Then once you have fallen in love with cycling, by all means, build your dream machine up from a frame.

      Over the last few bike upgrades I did notice substantial differences, (and don't forget the shoes too — plastic/carbon soles). There's no warrant to do a river loop (Brisbanites will know) on a flashy bike when you're just starting out.

      PS — I also have a Di2 bike and have roughly done about the same distance on the chains as you lol, must be some kind of bike doppelganger :P

      • Yeah I agree on the settling on something a little lower end first, and for a good all round bike I dont think you cant go past the 105 groupset. Value for money the Reid falco looks the goods - I had one before getting my current bike, I had the Reid Osprey before that.

        TBH for a cheap bike I really enjoyed riding my Osprey - i still have it, but moved on the falco -from memory the osprey is running shimano 2300 and despite it being only 8 speed it was and still is great fun to ride.

        On a different topic how amazing is the Di2? I was day dreaming the other day turned a tight corner and was in wayyyy to big a gear, for a second it looked like i might be in a bit of strife but just held down the up shift button and before i knew it I was spinning again!

        I also agree on the noticable upgrades - I have a tiagra cassette on my turbo trainer wheel and boy that thing is clunky changing compared to the 105 or ultegra rear cogs!

        • Di2 is pretty cool but the front derailleur shifts a bit slower than its mechanical counterpart. Rear derailleur is better though. I like the fact that you don't need to trim the front derailleur and the more precise rear derailleur tuning :P Was trying to snatch a KOM the other day on a segment that had a dip then an 18% gradient then another slight dip, was a bit clunky jumping around on the rings… lol

      • 'Fallen in love' he reckoned - more like madness obsession! Before you know it there will be +3 bikes in the garage. Good luck trying to decide which one has to go - much more worse than the Bachelor!

        • May I refer you to Rule #12. I do have three bikes and they don't live in the garage. They live in the house.

          Yes I must confess it is a bit of a madness obsession and kinda like the crazy cat lady. But on a slightly more serious note, everyone's got their own hobbies and interests…

  • +1

    I wish I could +1 the original post as well. Really good read and really excellent tips.

    • +2

      nah, it's all good. thanks bud.

  • What bike/budget would you guys recommend for daily 10k ride to work/uni in super hilly area

    • +1

      It depends on whether you want to give road biking a go, or just simply riding to and from uni/work.

      If the latter, any commuter/city bike would do, they cost anywhere between $200-$400 new. But if you're getting excited by the TDF action, it might be a good idea to look into a road bike.

      When I rode to uni I got myself a road bike because:

      • I was going to ride everyday
      • much lighter than a commuter bike for about the same price range
      • I can go climb a few hills and go on rides with friends

      It was a used bike on eBay, but was more value for money (ask if you can inspect before auction ends, and if it's spotless consider making a deal on the spot). Inspect if the bike has been in a major accident before and ask for how long it's been used, because some parts are at the end of the lifespan and need replacing. That also gives you more room to haggle. Check and shift through all the gears. Quite often when getting a low end used bike, the owner will include pedals, trip computers and bottle cages.

      If you're looking to do ~100km/week (50km weekday + 50km weekend), an entry level, well looked after, second hand (~5yo) road bike would cost around $300, double that for a new bike. That would be an aluminium road bike with probably a Shimano Sora gruppo.

      If you want to spend a bit more, around about $500 for a decent, used bike with Shimano Tiagra (sometimes Tiagra/105 mixed) gruppo aluminium bike. Again, roughly double that for a new bike.

      There's no doubt you can take either of these bikes on longer rides (like 100km+ flat rides), or shorter climbing rides. Just bear in mind that with those accessories mentioned above, it's quite easy to spend another $300-$500 on them. Once you have decided that cycling has become more than just commuting/a hobby, then look into a carbon bike with 105/ultegra gruppo. That way you'll really appreciate the difference and the skills you've built up.

      Well this is only my advice only. Other people will tell you different things. At the end of the day it just has to suit your budget and how committed you think you'll be into cycling.

      Happy riding!

      • +1

        Thanks for the effort you put into this answer Isamurai!

        • I agree with iSamurai on the value for money and the roughly around $500 mark.

          If the area is super hilly and youre new to riding you could always give a triple chainset a go (3 rings on the front). This bike is a nice entry level bike for the money and it has a triple chain set which makes climbing hilly areas easier! At the moment it looks like its $492 which is dirt cheap!

          http://www.reidcycles.com.au/bicycles/road-bikes/2013-reid-o…

          Note: I know I mention reid a lot but i've had great experiences with their bikes and cant speak highly enough of them.

        • I think you can do away with double chainrings on 52/36 or 50/34. You might run out of gears on the compact when descending but for someone who's just starting out it's not a bad op especially when climbing hilly areas.

          Speaking of the chainrings, if you're looking for a 2nd hand bike make sure you know what you're getting. If you're buying a new bike you should be able to ask the bike shop to swap it with the one you want for free.

        • I bought the osprey elite bike a few weeks back as the specs were really good for a beginner. Already had to replace the tyres as they were puncture-city, and the front chainset is very difficult to switch, hoping it'll loosen up over time.
          Otherwise I'm happy with it, friendly staff and the one year of free servicing is a nice bonus.

        • Take it to the shop and have them checked out since it's free in your case. If you decide to tune the FD yourself, watch a few videos on youtube before proceeding. Good learning experience but it's trial and error, so you might spend an afternoon doing it. Have fun :)

  • +2

    Great tips OP.

    You don't need to spend big on your first set of wheels. You MUST get your bike frame size right. That is non negotiable. If you don't, you'll be quite uncomfortable.

    Clothing sizes; all brands differ. Most of the internet shops have sizing charts for each of their items of clothing - so it is reasonably easy to get the right info.

    Here is a basic rider height/bike size table: (Google for others)
    http://bicycling.about.com/od/howtoride/a/bike_sizing.htm

    More advanced:
    http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR…

    In terms of internet shopping; Check out these sites for some good deals. They are overseas, but my experience with them has been nothing but positive. Stuff arrives from the UK in approx 1 week.

    www.bikeexchange.com.au (can get some great second hand bikes here, as well as AU bike forums)
    www.probikekit.com
    www.wiggle.co.uk [if you get referred by a friend to wiggle, you will get a free set of sunglasses with interchangeable lenses and your friend receives a voucher 10% of your first order. Let me know if you want an invite]
    www.torpedo7.com
    www.chainreactioncycles.com

    That said; please support your local bike shop where you can. I (personally) am happy to pay 10% on top of the internet price (of minor/accessories purchases) to support them. Buying a bike locally is priceless. You can get service when you need it, and many shops will go out of their way to support a product that they sell.

  • +1

    "For the dishwashing liquid, that's fine provided that you wash it off thoroughly, preferably with a hose with a nozzle attached."

    I like to keep my carbon road bike spotless too (with Di2 as well, by the way!) but there is no way I would wash my bike with a hose. Just grab a damp rag, some warm water, and wipe it over the frame etc, and then grab a second rag and dry it off. Water can get into bottom bracket etc with a hose….

    • Yeah I should describe it a bit more explicitly. What I meant was turn the tap on a bit and have the water stream concentrated by the nozzle, instead of dousing the bike with a bucket. And don't hose your bike with the kind water pressure used to wash a car.

      Only the cassette, jockeys, chains and chainrings get watered down after shampooing; the rest are wiped down with a soapy rag followed a clean damp rag. You should get all the black grime off the gruppo and everything should be shiny when finished cleaning.

      And to make white bartape shine again — use a bit of turpentine on a cloth to wipe it clean, then wipe again with dw liquid and water. Leave it in the sun for the smell to evaporate.

      • Great tips! Thanks.

  • +1

    2 words - HARDRUBBISH BIKE! :) freeeebie!!

    • although I agree with your methodology, isn't that three words?

  • +1

    I agree with iSamurai. Beginners don't need to spend more than $700 on a bike - yeah, it won't be full carbon or 105 shifters or whatever, but its a really good starting point. I still ride my $600 Trek 1.2 as a commuter, head down to the shops and the odd long ride if I have the time. I know its not the best, but I always love jumping on it for a ride. Plus, you don't have to worry about it being stolen if you park it for a night out (but get a good lock regardless).

    That said, it would be nice to upgrade!

    • just my view, but i'd actually recommend getting a real crap bike, i mean like a $150 dollar target road bike or second hand bike for around same, riding around for a while, see if you enjoy it and then spend around 1k on a carbon road bike with 105/tiagra + groupset

      i mean if you decide you dont like riding much etc, $150 bike is good for a throwaway or occasional use to go to shops wearing thongs. no point letting a $$500+ bike gather rust in the garage. also if your upgrading, get a bike you can use for a few years,if you get something like sora gearing and you bike semi-regularly you will end up wanting sti gearing + carbon frame (tiagra+) at some point

      • Interesting. That could be an alternative method. I thought it might be more value for money to get a second hand entry level road bike, and should you decide that cycling's not your thing, you can sell it without copping a huge loss.

        If you decide to go this way and then make the bigger jump later, the general principles of how to shop around for a bike mentioned in this post still applies ;) it's just that the earlier you get a road bike, the earlier you'll learn more about the sport, rather than simply riding to point A to point B.

        Sit gearing is now available on the newest sora groupsets, so do take note if you are getting an old bike.

        Before I got my first road bike, I had one of these Kmart bikes but that was just for fun and games back in the days. Then I got a $300 odd used road bike, picked up another one along the way and finally saved up for a bling bike. Remember rule #12.

  • Hi guys,

    Wanted to get an opinion on this bike.

    www.freelancebikes.com.au

    Anyone rode one of these before? How are they when priced at $299?

    http://scoopon.com.au/deals/46845/get-around-town-in-style-w…

  • Hey iSamurai - thanks for the really helpful guide!

    I am looking into buying a road bike but at the moment I have a mountain bike (with front suspension) equipped with some chunky puncture proof Schwalbe Marathons. I used this bike to cycle 5000kms around Turkey (and I still know nothing about bike gear!) but now I am in need of a lighter and faster setup.

    Would the tyres you recommended be compatible with my 28inch mountain bike wheels? If not can you recommend something?

    Also which website do you recommend to buy my gear from?

    Thanks a heap for your help.
    Adam

    • Hey Adam, sorry mate. late response. I didn't subscribe to this thread.

      The tyres I mentioned GP4000s or Pro4 SC are for road bikes only. You need MTB tyres as they're different width and diameter. I'm not into mountain biking, so I can't make a recommendation for you. I can however make a few suggestions on where you can do your shopping.

      If you want something immediately, check out your LBS. You'll pay a higher price for the convenience, which is okay if you need something for the upcoming weekend.

      Online shops (I'm sorry to all retailers out there maybe some of them I didn't mention so hence I was a bit reluctant to mention it in the original article. these are just off the top of my head. I have bought from all of them before).

      Australian/NZ
      Cell Bikes
      Velo Gear
      Cycling Express
      Torpedo7
      Cycling Deal

      Overseas
      Wiggle
      Pro Bike Kit
      Chain Reaction Cycles
      Evans Cycles
      Ribble Cycles
      …and maybe sometimes eBay.

  • Even though the usual change over of seasons is spring/summer, don't be afraid to look or ring around anyway. Giant's 2014 models are just starting to hit stores, and I picked up a 2013 Avail 1 today for $1099 (RRP $1399), and the specs are identical.

    Also, Cycleworld is a great site to look at to help you find a deal.

    Great post, OP.

    • Thanks mate. With some brands of bikes, quite often they downgrade the specs for the following year models. It's so silly and it was one of the reasons why I really chased up on the outgoing model.

      Most of the time the differences are the paint jobs and the minor specs changes. The frames are the same and get updated once every few years.

      I believe the reason for the downgrade is that they can lower the sticker price and sometimes removing the top end model. This way they'll have more room to offer you upgrading parts so you think you're getting a good deal. They'll usually bump the specs to the top of the range again when a new frame design (not paint/graphics) comes out.

      But on the other hand the lower end model may suit other people's budget. I just don't like them (sometimes) using the same spec label. It's like comparing apples to oranges.

  • Bike fit

    May I just reiterate what I just touched briefly on: the bike fit. As conka11 has pointed out, getting the right size is non negotiable. I can't edit the article anymore so here it goes.

    Use this site and ask a mate to measure you up if you're going to to buy a bike online. But do it anyway if you want to buy a bike in store so you'll get a few more numbers to compare.

    When you use that site, the number to look out for is the top tube length. That's usually what the bike sizes are labelled as. Most bikes now have slanted top tubes, so these sizes are provided as effective top tube lengths. But you should of course take into account the other measurements.

    Buying online
    You'll spend some time doing trial and error adjusting the saddle fore/aft/height, the handlebar angle, shifter angle and the steerer tube length.

    You probably have to cut the steerer tube yourself for aesthetic reasons. The ends of the handlebar should point slightly downwards to the ground, and the shifters should be ideally parallel to the handlebar or just a touch angled upwards, but it's really up to your preference. Some default positions are poorly setup so you'll have to manually adjust them yourself. Make sure you get yourself a torque wrench so that you tighten to the recommended torque, which is usually printed on the components or just Google that.

    Buying from an LBS
    You'll have the advantage of swapping some components out for free, depending on how much free* bike fit they're willing to do and/or how much you know about your body. You might be able to swap for example crank arms (length), stem (length), saddle (length) and handlebar (width, reach and drop).

    *I know a few bike shops offer fitting service for a few hundred bucks where they take videos and photos etc… whether you believe it's worth the money it's up to you. But here's a very good (and free) article telling you how to do a bike fit, and there are plenty more on Google worth reading.

    Either way you still need a few times adjusting your cleat position. By continuously adjusting your bike setup, you'll find a comfortable position where it's efficient to cycle and won't cause joint/muscle pains.

  • Sorry to dredge up an old thread but looking for some advice on a bike. I'm mid 40's 176 cm tall and from what I've been able to work out from the online fit calculators I need a 54 or a 56 cm bike, probably a 56. I've been to a few bike shops already and had a look.

    Budget is <$3K, done some mountain biking looking to get into road riding and looking for something decent. Prefer Carbon frame with endurance geometry and Ultegra gruppo or the SRAM/Campy equivalent (no real preference yet).

    Been looking and now I am totally confused to the point of paralysis. My understanding of endurance geometry is a taller headtube leading to a more upright position. I get LBS guys telling me bikes with a big Headtube (like the Colnago CLX3.0) are definitely not for me and then they point me at something with a much smaller head tube like a Willier Izoard. Today I went to a LBS, mostly to look at their De Rosa 838 deal only to have the guy try and talk me out of that and into one of their 'no name' bikes with a better gruppo. He told me the no-name bikes (Azzuri and verite) were more relaxed for what I wanted but when I got back to the PC and looked at the geometry the De Rosa seemed like it had a more relaxed geometry. The Azzuri in particular had a very agressive headtube length of prob 13 cm ish.

    I know I am over-thinking this and I probably should go and test ride all these bikes but the truth is I will never get the time. Plan is to ride to/from work (out in the burbs, bit of Lysterfield country riding etc, nowhere near CBD), finding a free Saturday to cruise around town in Lycra checking out Bike shops is a luxury I dont have. I'm not interested in a Reid flat bar hybrid etc, it's all the way or nothing, i'm planning 40Km each way 2-3 times a week on a road bike to and from work.

    The biggest problem I have is that I am an Ozbargainer. I can afford to buy a high end italian bike from a LBS. My problem is that I couldn't bring myself to do it. I need to be getting a bargain almost as much as I need to be getting a bike. Best LBS was the closest one to home. He took ages with me and ran me through the Trek Domane he sells. Looked like a good bike with an innovative suspension technology built into the frame, I'd love to buy from him. Problem is that Trek only sell through LBS's and they seem very expensive for what you get. To get the equivalent of what I'm getting on the net for $2K I'd have to spend nearly $4k with him. Do I compromise and get a lesser bike so I can buy from the friendly local guy? With no real competition apart from other LBS's which I am sure the distributor closely controls I am not likely to get a bargain.

    I like the look of the Colnago CLX 3.0 and the Cervelo R3. No interest in Giant, see one on every corner and they too seem to be closely controlled price-wise.

    Long way around I know but it seems to be a choice between a generic 'black and Gold' 'no-name' brand frame which may or not be good (I know Giant used to be one of these and that many of the Italians etc get their frames made in the same Taiwanese factories) with a top gruppo or I get a better brand bike with maybe a better frame and I add bits as I see fit over the journey.

    End of the day, my need for a bargain is seriously affecting my choice. I wont be happy with the bike that fits best at a price I can afford. I need to have it at a bargain, the deal is important. Paying RRP for the Trek when i could have had a Colnago over the internet for $500 less would be killing me every time I hop aboard. I'm new to this scene but I don't want to be paying $1k+ for the convenience of not having to know anything about the bike.

    Also, had a look at the bay and Gumtree etc, seems that most carbon frame warranties only apply to the original purchaser. Not sure I want to risk a couple of K that the previous owner is telling the truth about whether they've run into any car doors etc when potentially I can can get a new one for a couple of hundred more.

    • Hey bud, sorry for the late response.

      Firstly it sounds like at 176cm you'd probably fit better in a 54cm… I'm 178cm and 56cm is a bit of a stretch (I'm on a 54cm frame).

      Don't limit yourself on upright models. If you find a bike that's better in every way then go for that one, even if it's "race" geometry. Ask the shop when they're building up the bike to leave a few spacers on the steerer tube and chop it down as you go (or simply move the handlebars down without cutting the tube if you don't mind the the tube not being flush with the stem). I'm no Campy fan so I can't comment on that. With SRAM you'd probably be looking at some the Force groupset at that price bracket? I like Shimano's STI levers but I like the shape of SRAM's shifters more. It's a lot more meaty and comfortable to hold. The doubletap shifting is just a matter of preference. The good thing with Shimano/SRAM is that their components are interchangeable, and are a lot more common too. This means you'll get components at a much cheaper price and and can mix and match. Rather important when it comes to replacing bits of components.

      Three main options:

      Now is the time to buy from LBS because they're doing clearouts of 2013 models… This gives you a bit of room to look at the larger brands instead of going for the "black and gold" ones. The advantage of buying from an LBS is that you have the potential to build a good relationship. Sometimes they'll do minor fixes for free or give a discount on products (which makes them about equivalent to OS internet prices). It sounds like your LBS gave you a dose of some marketing spin. Research online from other Trek bike stores and see how much they sell that model for. Show them that and ask to match it. Say you are able to pay in cash. Last time I bought my bike it was rather insane to withdraw a couple of ks from the ATM just nearby, but it did allow me to be in a better position to negotiate. I doubt you'd be able to ING your way 30 times hahaha :P

      Buying online would be nice, though I'd shy away from that if I were to spend $3k on a bike without actually seeing the actual thing, unless I absolutely know the bike inside out. The thing with online bikes is that you can't haggle. You'd also run the risk of getting a lemon bike and takes a lot of effort to sort the problem out… You'll also have to be prepared to do online research yourself if you run into some problems (usually googling the problem solves it), but you can take the bike into a shop if it's something serious. If it's a better deal in every way, then go for it. This is what I'd go for if you think I'd still get a better deal even after haggling with an LBS, especially when you emphasised that the getting the best deal is the most important.

      Yes carbon frame warranties only apply to the original purchaser, but that's if it's a manufacturer defect. So if you got a secondhand bike and crash it you won't miss out much on warranty. Every now and then you may be able to pick up some pretty bikes (high end, almost new) on eBay/Gumtree/facebook groups/forums for a bargain IF the reason for selling them is due to sponsorship, but these bikes only come once in a blue moon.

      PS - my mate rides a Cayo. It's a good solid workhorse but he said its shape looks quite rigid compared to mine and would've loved to have some curves. My main bike is a Specialized Venge. Well you can't have it all lol, price, looks and specs. Pick two. I think Cervelo's S3/S5 are nice but they've got quite a rigid look… I've ridden another mate's Specialized Tarmac and it's very comfortable but doesn't look as good as the Venge. Another bike I've ridden for a while is a Giant TCR, which is also uber comfortable to ride. I think all of these bikes have slightly lower end gruppos that may fit your price range.

      PS2 - if you're planning to ride 40km each way it's a good idea to ride in lycra (don't want the chafing). Not sure if you meant that with the saturday bike shop thing.

      PS3 - I'm building a bike this holiday with generic frames and parts from China, so I'll be able to provide a test report on how these babies handle. You can build a (theoretically) high end bike with a decent gruppo for less than $2k. Safety wise I can't say if corners have been cut, but I won't be taking said bike up and down hills (only on flats and crits).

      Happy riding!

      • Thanks for the feedback Samurai. I have taken the plunge and bought a Trek Domane 5.2. I researched myself to a standstill and in the end I went out and test rode a few. I liked the look of the Colnago CLX 3.0 but I never rode it. I started out at the Trek and sort of used it as a comparison. In the end it seemed like the most comfortable of the lot despite the fact that I liked the SRAM shifters on some of the other bikes better. Ultegra seems OK though. The trek had a stack of features that made sense to me but in all honesty, I reckon the guy in the LBS sold the bike better. I test rode a cube and the guy there did the usual measure me up thing and then guessed at the seat height. He also tried the old 'I spoke to the boss and I can drop an extra $$ off but only if you buy in the next 30 mins' routine. I work in sales and putting pressure on somebody is the oldest trick in the book, I could actually see his hands shaking when he was talking to me, I had to tell him to chill and that I knew he wanted to close a sale, just take it easy!! That said it was a nice bike but felt a bit cramped, couldn't say why or how and he told me it looked great (of course he would!).

        Others were kind of like that as well. The guy in the Trek LBS spent ages with me on a wind trainer and some other large complicated machine with loads of moving bits. He adjusted the seatpost 4 times before he got the right fit on the test bike. Took 40 mins to setup for the test ride!! Even then he wasn't happy with my position but would have to change the headset to get it any better. In the end it just felt perfect, didn't feel cramped at all so I bought one. I think I got a good deal, RRP was $3999, I paid #3300 with a few extras thrown in (CO2 inflator, spare tubes and some speedplay pedals!!). They'll adjust it and service it for the 1st year. LBS isn't local for me so getting to and from will be an issue but I guess I'll manage.

        I had the call today, bike being built tomorrow and picking up tomorrow arvo. I've read that the wheels that come with most mid range bikes are average and the ones on mine are the bottom of Bontrager's lineup. I know I can upgrade them on pickup by just paying the difference for something better but I don't want to pay mega $$ for carbon wheels etc. If it was an extra $100 for a big improvement etc I could probably muster that up. I'm thinking wheels are something I can invest in at the 4000 Km mark when I will def notice a difference. Saw some Pro-Light wheels on the net that looked good!

        In terms of the subject of this thread, I am interested in the additional extraneous kit that a new cyclist should be getting. I assume at least a rear LED light, multi tool/tyre levers, spare tubes and a floor pump for home are worth having. Also gotta have a water bottle. Any recommendations on additional kit that is worth getting (would love a Garmin 810 to help me navigate around but probably somewhere in the future)

        I have been rididng a MTB with slicks around town for years, I am OK with the Lycra look and I have a couple of jerseys/bibs but I would be interested if there are any good recommendations on clothes/helmets. I have some new Sidi shoes

        • That's great to hear! It's really good to see someone spend so much time to adjust the bike just for a test ride. it has to be comfortable and that's non negotiable. sounds like a nice bike you've got there :) next thing you need to adjust is the cleat position. maybe you could ask the shop to dial it in for you to avoid knee pain. lol @ the sales… I guess that was one of the reason why I started this thread. I've never gone back to my LBS to have my bike serviced… I do everything myself. when you take your bike to get it serviced make sure you do your homework so that they don't make you swap out components that are supposedly "worn out".

          If you're after deep rim carbon wheels 40-50mm they take a while to get used to (especially in crosswinds) but are a joy to ride. Takes a bit more effort to spin up but you get to put in less effort at higher speeds. Having said that there are generic wheels some chinese wholesale websites, and I'm about to buy them for $400 to test out haha! I won't recommend them because of safety concerns (don't know about QC) so they're just something that I'll only be playing around with.

          For other accessories you probably need (most of these stuff you can get them off wiggle or whatever your choice is):

          • lights, front and rear. I have a million lights I've used - big, small, bright, dim etc. My conclusion is that the smaller the better, not necessarily the brightest but small = lighter and not so obtrusive. I got a blinky silicone light off ebay for a few bucks and works well. the Cateye Nima works well too. Another light called the fibre flare (aussie design) looks cool but is quite bulky and doesn't work as great in daylight as traditional lights due to its inherent design.

          • multi tool, allen keys, grease, carbon fibre grip paste (though hair gel works just as well), torque wrench (absolute must have), chain tool, pedal wrench, chain whip etc. - keep all of them them at home, don't bother carrying them around (you'll start to build up a huge collection of tools as you keep riding)

          • bike stand - optional, it's convenient for maintenance and bike cleaning but you can do without it by turning your bike upside down

          • chain lube, cleaning products as mentioned in the original post on the very top (dust pan brush, dishwashing liquid, turpentine)

          • tyre levers - those ebay ones don't work well. they snap pretty easily. the tacx ones (curvy looking) work pretty well and is quite tough. carry 2 with you

          • tubes - if you're a weight weenie then lighter the better - carry one with you. you shouldn't run into flats at all if you have decent tyres.

          • tube repair kits - carry the glueless ones with you and leave the proper glue ones at home

          • CO2 cartridges - carry 2 with you + 1 inflator valve

          • small saddle bag. Should be small enough to only fit the above-mentioned + keys + $50 note. (the banknote could be used in case of blow out to get you back home)

          • floor pump (I bought the Giyo pump that was posted here a while ago from Torpedo7) works well. $20 only :)

          • Garmin if you like, you can get it online for a lot cheaper. I have a 510 and what I usually do is to map out the ride on garmin connect, then sync it via the phone. it's breadcrumb trail but a huge improvement over the 500. don't need the 810 just yet…

          • drinks - fill bottle with 1-1.5cm of honey, juice of 1/3-1/2 lemon (depending on how big it is), a pinch of salt and optional some gatorade or flat coke, top it off with water. this works well and IMO better than most electrolyte drink powders/tablets out there… and cheaper and all natural too. carry one bottle with this stuff and another with plain water. there's a good mix of simple/complex sugars and carbs and citric acid. 2 bottles for rides => 2 hours.

          • food - peanut butter sandwich, muesli bars, bananas… haha, or whatever you prefer. gels are good for races but I find it's pretty unnecessary for your average ride.

          • bottle cage - there are some fancy looking carbon ones on chinese wholesale websites for ~$15 delivered. since they're not load bearing components QC is less important in this case.

          • bell - you need one, by law.

          • iPod shuffle, but only one earbud and music/podcasts turned way down. not recommended unless you like to live dangerously

          • bike lock. get a decent D lock - I've got the kryptonite evolution mini 5 and a 4ft kryptoflex cable. you should lock the bike to a bike rack at the down tube with the rear wheel. Front wheel is looped with the cable.

          • chamois cream, optional.

          • baby powder for the undercarriage. baby oil for the legs. baby wipes for the fingers if you have to touch the chain while out and about.

          • razor blades and shaving cream (they're half price atm I think). you know what to do.

          For clothes and stuff:

          • helmet. you need it, by law. unless you are in QLD and you only plan to ride exclusively on the pavement or bike paths.

          • shoes and gloves. I love Giro. I have the Aeon & Atmos helmets, Factor shoes and a few pairs of their gloves. I love their design it's such an irrational preference (like my bikes, and maybe like apple products). But really, if the shoe fits, wear it. It should fit like a glove… hmm no more lame puns.

          • cycling kits. I'm a skinny dude and I find italian brands fit quite well. I have a couple of castelli and sportful kits, and they fit really well — not flapping in the wind. my club kit is no where near as close fitting/comfy… the former are pricy but I guess you pay for that bit of a difference. Shop online from OS… they are on sale every now and then (last one was during black friday/cyber monday) and you should be able to pick up a jersey for ~$60 and a pair of bibs for $80. Again, you could try out some of those kits from chinese wholesale websites for ~$40 (jersey + bibs). I bought one just to test out how good/bad they are but that was a month ago and still has yet to show up…

          • arm/leg warmers, vests, baselayers, skull caps for the cooler days. for baselayers I've got a couple of adidas techfit sleeveless tops and canterbury baselayers. they should be enough for 5-10ºC.

          I think that's all I can think of on my feet, will put up more if I remember ;)

        • +1

          Revisiting what now seems like an old thread, life has been taken over by cycling since December. Managed to get most of the above, just unpacked my Torpedo7 workstand and use it for the 1str time this arvo. Well worth the cash for cleaning cranks/chains etc. tried doing it without a stand and I felt like I was 2 arms too short most of the time. Had to get a special adapter from the local Trek dealership as bike has a carbon seatpost and didn't want to risk damaging it, esp after some of the white-knuckle descents on the weekly shop ride (Garmin says 70 Km/hr+, last thing I need at that speed is a seatpost failing!)

          Loads of bargains around on cycling clothes, like my other hobby, skiing, our position in the opposite hemisphere to most of the world's cyclists means we can take advantage of the end of season clearouts. What I have noticed though is that you have to be crateful you are comparing apples with apples.

          I bought a cheap pair of Endura knicks early on and thought they were good. On my forst 50Km+ ride it hurt and when I got home there was blood on the chamois, I was walking like I had a stick up the date for a week! Since then I managed to get some Assos knicks from Ribble on a deal, no comparison, awesome. They were probably twice the price of the Enduras but my boys appreciate the extra comfort. Twice the price but 4 times the comfort.

          Also appreciated little things. At the bike shop I bought a big saddle bag to fit extra stuff into. It now annoys me as I only want to carry my CO2 inflator and a spare tube. Will buy a cheap bag.

          Probably the biggest thing I now appreciate, and from a mercenary internet shopper like me this is hard to admit, is the service from the LBS. My local bike shop isn't the cheapest place to buy stuff but Dave, the mechanic runs a weekly ride that I love. He comes on all the rides himself and he is always up for a chat about bikes and to give advice and he even fixed up some wonky bar tape for me on a bike I bought from another shop… no charge.

          For little things like saddle bags, multi tools, even my Garmin I bought from Dave's shop. Sure I could have found them cheaper from probikekit etc, but they don't run free shop rides at the foot of my street every Saturday!

        • Mate which stand do you have from T7? Is it good?

          I want to get one too.

          Thanks

        • +1

          I got the cheapest 4 legged one off eBay. From memory they're about $55 delivered. It's good if you have a roundish top tube, but otherwise if you have a flat top tube it doesn't clamp well and you may need to modify the clamp with bits of sponge or something…

        • +1

          This is the one I bought https://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/UNWKWNN60/title/union-a… it is much more solid and higher quality than what I was expecting. Makes me wonder what the $300 ones must be like?? I have a composite seatpost and a carbon frame. Advice from Trek was to use an 'adapter' to hold the seatpost and the stand connects to the adapter.

          The Trek Adapter kit cost $40 and it is OK but the extra degree of separation adds some instability to holding my bike. All good enough for taking off the wheels and cleaning the bike though. Stand folds up for storage and is stable and solid. I am happy with my purchase.

        • Thanks. Is it risky to use those clamps on a Carbon frame? Would they cause damage without an adapter?
          Hope I can find an adpater for my CR1.

        • I did a bit of research and the consensus was to clamp onto the seatpost. If you have an aluminium seatpost no problems. If you have a carbon seatpost, advice was to buy a cheap aluminium seatpost in a sale somewhere (think I've seen them for $10) and switch it in before connecting bike to the stand. I was told to mark the height of my regular seatpost with texta before taking it off to make sure I can get it back at the right height.

        • I like to add First Aid Kit to this list.

          Last week my friends chain came off as he shifted gears quickly on a steep hill. I helped him to put back the chain and cut my finger on the crank wheel.

  • I have a Focus and love it. I got the 2013 Cayo http://www.bikes.com.au/p/8731674/2014-focus-cayo-evo-40---r…

    For your budget you could get the top of the line http://www.bikes.com.au/p/8474671/2012-focus-izalco-ergo-10-… and it's a bargain too.

    The store is in Prahan, has good service, and will give you a bike fit to help choose between 54 and 56.

    • Thanks kingsville, I will drop in there tomorrow and have a look. Been researching the Izalco and the Cayo. They get great reviews. Seen an Izalco 1 yo on bikeexchange, tempted but I'll have a look toimorrow.

  • I wanted an endurance geometry bike and short listed the following

    • Specialized Roubaix (105)
    • Trek Domane 4.3
    • Giant Defy Advanced 2
    • Scott CR1 Pro

    Ended up getting CR1 Pro and love it! (2013 model, $2499 full Ultegra groupset and very light frame)
    Both the Defy and CR1 have a mixture of race/endurance geometry. So they can be a GrandFondo bike one day and be a race bike the next day.

  • +1

    I ended up buying a Trek Domane 5.2. Bit of haggling and shopping around and I managed to get the 5.2 for what I was being offered a 4.7 at most shops. Been out on it heaps since then, loving it. Managed to find a LBS that runs weekly shop rides through local hills with a weekly bunch of about 30 ish. Having a ball but hard work cranking up the hills!

  • If you are just looking to get fit then nothing beats going for a jog. The whole bike riding activity is really just marketing. You don't need to buy someone's mechanical contraption to get yourself fit.

    • +2

      Sorry Warier, but have to disagree with you.

      I am in my mid thirties, have had two knee reconstructions, and I couldn't jog around the block without extreme pain.
      I can, however, ride 400-500kms a week, with absolutely no pain, and I am without a doubt the fittest and strongest I have ever been in my life. Cycling has zero impact on knee joints (until you fall off or get hit by a car, that is) and my "mechanical contraption" that is apparently "just marketing" has transformed me physically. Jogging was never ever going to work for me. To this day, I still cannot jog around the block without getting discomfort, but I can ride my bike for hours and hours on end.

      Cycling, I reckon, is fast becoming the new golf. And even semi serious cyclists are some of the fittest people on the planet. Its NOT just marketing.

      • The army still uses running as the basis to test someone's real fitness. I personally think the fittest people reside in our defence forces. There is no bike riding at army boot camp :)

        • +1

          The reason I am now into cycling is because of all the injuries I sustained in my 15 year Army career. I've had ACL reco's and Achilles reattachments, all from overuse injuries from Army service. I have a DVA card and get a very small pension from it but I am still keen on keeping fit. These days a 5km run leaves me limping for a week. But a hilly 40-50 km ride can absolutely flog me as bad as any run and I can still walk up and down stairs at work the next day!

          Army BFA also has several aspects to it including sit-ups and push-ups and for folks in deployable combat units you used to have to do a Combat Fitness Test (CFA) which involved a 15km route march in full marching order (full load of kit) plus the Run Dodge Jump (RDJ) course, a fireman's carry and some shooting on the 50m range. I am still missing a couple of toe nails that fell off somewhere between the 10 and 15 km marks, never grew back properly!

          Running was great in my 20's, not so good in my 40's

      • 100% agree mate (nortyjak), I am on the same boat, I can't do high impact activities, so cycling is the best choice for me.

      • Yeah… I ride 300-400km a week… with heaps of climbing and a race or two every fortnight. Absolutely manageable but I feel ashamed I only run once 5km a week hahaha :P I feel so bad running but I do it because I know it's good for me. Absolutely horrible my heart rate goes up comparable when I climb hills on a bike lol it's not marketing. I'm also asthmatic - need to use salbutamol on some occasions, however I find that I don't need to do it on the bike as often as I go for a run, even when I'm pushing really hard on a bike for a sustained period of time.

  • I stopped watching the Tour de France ever since Lance admitted to using performance enhancing drugs. He was my childhood hero…

  • I started riding last December, so haven't ridden during winter in Sydney.

    I am not sure what kind clothing is ideal for early morning rides in Sydney. Given that Sydney winter is mild, I don't want to over dress and find myself too hot during the day on my return trip.

    What kind of clothing do you folks wear? Thermal Underlay or Jackets?

    • in Brissie winter only gets down to like 10ºC, so you'd get away with a thermal vest/compression/base layer + normal jersey/bibs + windproof vest + neck buff + arm and leg warmers. It might take you 10-15 minutes to warm up (which is really cold) but afterwards it feels great.

      If it's 5ºC and the temperature will hover around the low teens then a jacket with a jersey underneath should do. otherwise you'll feel great initially but then it'll get uncomfortably hot afterwards.

      http://www.bicycling.com/whattowear this site's not too bad to give you a rough idea on what to wear in what condition.

      • Thanks, I will check it out.

  • I have a tip. If you are riding a road bike, and there is a bike lane next to you, don't block traffic on the actual road. The council has built a little bike road for you, use it. It annoys me so much that cyclists insist on riding on the actual road, slowing down traffic considerably, when there is a lane designated specifically for them. This happens on the Yarra around Toorak, along Beaconsfield parade, and down on the Mornington Peninsula.

    • +1

      Hi Thornton82, do you ride yourself? I also live in Melbourne but don't often cycle down that way so not familiar with those particular paths but this is a common theme that comes up from motorists, normally alongside registration fees, middle aged guys wearing lycra, cyclists running red lights and 'why do cyclists have to ride side-by-side'.

      If the Bike lane is an actual Bike lane then I for one agree with you, personally, having any kind of legal separation from door mirrors etc is thankfully accepted, even if the separator is just a white line on the road. If the path is a 'shared path' used by pedestrians, people walking dogs, skateboarders, families out with the toddlers on a bike trip etc then I would urge road cyclists to avoid it and stay on the road. Main reason being that a road bike doing 45km/hr can be lethal for both the rider and whomever it hits on the path. Also, often those kinds of paths have the grooves between concrete slabs, maybe OK on a mountain bike but not much fun on a road bike. I nearly killed 2 old ladies, a dog and myself cresting a hill one cold morning on just such a path.

      If the bike lane is actually the stopping lane at the side of the road then I would caution riders to use cautiously and perhaps stay on the road. All manner of rubbish including glass/roadkill/broken down cars ends up in the stopping lane. Additionally, the stopping lanes have a habit of just running out, forcing cyclists to have to try and merge back into oncoming traffic moving at considerably greater speed, very dangerous.

      Road bikes aren't blocking traffic on the road, road bikes are legitimate legal road traffic themselves. I have never met a cyclist that knowingly sets out to impede cars. The best answer for all of this is for all of us to chill out and share the road responsibly. Is it that big a deal to have to slow down a bit for somebody trying to stay fit?

      • These cycle lanes I talk about are tarmac lanes built specifically for bikes. Beaconsfield parade has separate walking and riding lanes. Cyclists still ride on the road.

        A bike at 45kmh is still a lot less dangerous than a car at 60kmh.

        Regardless of your twist on reality, a road bike is not legitimate road traffic. They don't pay registration or road taxes, and should thus be subservant to cars. You say you have never met a cyclist that knowingly sets out to impede cars, yet every cyclist knows full well that they cannot keep up with traffic speed before they set off, thus they do know they are blocking traffic from the outset. I understand that cycling is better for health and the environment, and I think councils should take into account the increased numbers of cyclists and create more bike specific lanes like in the Netherlands, but of the lanes like this that do exist, cyclists should use them.

        At my beach house in Mt Martha, it is infuriating to be stuck behind the literally hundreds of cyclists who can barely ride faster than a 20kmh average along the cliff tops, where the speed limit is 60kmh. Even worse is that cyclists will ride 3 abreast, stopping any chance of passing them. I think its great you are getting fit, but cyclists should take into account the road users who are actually paying for the roads (I know most of you have licenses and cars too). That being said, as I mentioned before, it would be a great idea if the councils took these numbers into account and built bike specific lanes so we could all enjoy the space, rather than just in parts painting a bike icon into what was the emergency lane.

        Cyclists often disobey the road rules, and this is a frustration to drivers also, running red lights, speeding down hills, riding dangerously, and I think registration of bikes would not only contribute to a safer roads for cyclists, but also allow councils to make appropriate improvements so we are all happy.

        • +1

          "cyclists should take into account the road users who are actually paying for the roads"

          I thought that local roads were paid for by local councils (i.e. rate payers with federal hand outs http://investment.infrastructure.gov.au/funding/roads/). Perhaps all the cyclists are on a morning jaunt from their beach house too!

          Cyclists are only supposed to ride 2 abreast, but I find many of your other comments gross generalisations.

        • The author of this article has said it much better than I can. http://www.smh.com.au/executive-style/fitness/blogs/on-your-…

          I am pretty sure that cyclists are no worse than drivers when it comes to breaking road rules. I am sure there are bad cyclists but the burnout marks on the road and the lines of cars parked alongside the booze bus prove that drivers aren't much better. These aren't separate tribes of people, these are just ordinary Australians out using the roads, there will be good ones and bad ones, smart ones and stupid ones.

          Cycling isn't going to go away. Drivers don't pay for the roads, and, yes I pay rego for 2 cars that are safely parked in my garage not using any roads when I am on my bike. Riding 2 abreast is legal for groups, not sure about 3 and personally I feel much safer in a group.

          Being slowed up a bit on the way to your beach house is surely not a very big problem in the grand scheme of things is it? Most of those cyclists have families, wives, kids etc. Isn't their safety a little bit more important than a quicker trip to the beach?

          And I also agree that a car at 60 km/hr on a bikepath would be more dangerous to the 2 old ladies and a dog.

    • It is part of the road rules (at least in Qld) that if there is a bike lane, a cyclist must use it… so everyone just abide by the rules and everyone will be happy ;)

      There's quite a bit of generalisation in your post, and one could say the same thing about drivers e.g. all drivers hate cyclists and want to run over all of them. But this is obviously not true so I wouldn't make this statement… and I hope this thread doesn't turn into another driver vs cyclist thread (that was pretty much discussed here)… so anyway, I'd prefer if this thread is about saving money on cycling related topics.

  • Great read, thank you.
    New laws reguarding cycling have come into play in Qld ( early this month ), worth a read - www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/tmfranch/roadruleschangesbicycles.pdf‎

  • Guys, I want to get the Conti GP 4000 tyres.

    Questions

    1. Should I get 4000 or 4000 s2.
    2. Is S2 worth the extra money?

    Thanks

  • Cant help with the Conti 4000's, never used them but here is a good thread on another forum that lists up Australian Bicycle Stuff Deals http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=25724&… good for the latest wiggle/CRC/PBK codes!

    • Thanks, I'll check that thread.

  • Hi Guys,

    I upgraded my tyres to GP4000s 25mm, after changing the tyre and making sure the tube is all in place, I pumped it to 80 psi …. at that point I heard two pretty loud popping sounds, is that the tyre settling in? I kept on pumping till I reached 100 psi.

    Everything looks good, but wondering what the sound was..?

    Thanks

    • The tyre is settling in, nothing to be concerned about.

      • thanks Mate, I was a newbie back then :) almost 3 years ago

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