Does airconditioning effect my fuel consumption?

I have been lead to believe that having the air conditioning on all the time effect the fuel usage of the car,

I have read that at high speeds having the windows down will increase resistance and drag and therefore also effecting your fuel consumption.

so at low speeds maybe under 60km/hour having the windows down
at speeds above 60km/hour its better to have the air conditioning on.
makes for better fuel economy.

what is everyone's thought on this. ?

doesn't obviously factor in the really hot days where you wouldn't care about fuel consumption and staying cool would be the absolute priority

and doesn't factor in the times when you are stationary

Comments

  • +6

    When your aircon is on and kicks in (Once the compressor starts up), if you look at your RPM odometer, you'll see it jump up as the compressor needs the engine to run to work. If it's forcing your engine to be used more to power it, it will use more fuel as a result.

      • He's probably talking about an automatic transmission when the torque converter isn't engaged.

        • +2

          Pretty sure he'd be talking about the RPM when stationary (and probably in neutral). Once you're driving the RPM would not change in a manual and in an auto you would probably not see any difference.

        • Although RPM is linked to road speed in a manual transmission and in most Post say 90's Autos are lock up torque convertors, this is about LOAD on the engine.

          Turning an AC on whilst driving is like going up a hill. The RPM and road speed do not change, BUT the engine works harder by burning more fuel due to the LOAD on it.

          Of course there are many many other factors but if you add load to a car, it will burn more fuel - simple.

        • Some vehicles do increase idle engine speed when the AC is engaged, my Mitsubishi challenger comes to mind.

        • Yes agree at Idle rpm often fluctuates as load is applied and the cars ECU compensates.

      • +4

        In addition to Scrooge McDuck's comment, an auto may even change gears when the AC is on.

    • +1

      This effect is normally caused by a solenoid on the inlet that will allow a small amount of extra air to bypass the throttle to give the engine a bit more kick when the A/C compressor activates while the car is idling.

      But yes, the compressor requires horsepower to run, and the engine burns fuel to provide for it.

  • +18

    http://www.environment.gov.au/settlements/transport/fuelguid…

    recommends using air conditioning above 80 km/h due to air drag. Obviously this depends on the car and other factors.

    BTW, it's affect.

    • +3

      Mythbusters suggested* 55mph (~90kph), but they used a 4WD (which would indicate a lower speed, not a higher speed, as appropriate for windows up, so I give up!).

      *Series 2, episode 22

      • +4

        They revisited it in a later episode and acknowledged that it does depend on both the car design and the speed travelling.
        I use 80km/h as my guide, below that use windows, above that aircon, but that's more to avoid that buffeting effect that annoys me

      • I was gonna quote them too lol

    • +4

      The effects of the air con affects the car

    • +1

      I have been toying with the button which circulates air in the car rather than taking new air in. Today I opened the windows until the car dropped to outside temp. Closed the windows, turned on air con until I was at a happy temp and then pressed the button to keep the cold air circulating without dragging in new warm air which it would need to cool. And then I turned the air con off and let the air continue circulating.

      • +2

        You do realise the AC works quicker and more efficiently using the 'recirculate' setting, not fresh air? It also gets much colder using recirc. I ask as your description suggests you run the ac with it set to 'fresh'.

        • Yeah, I think it's my idea that the air will be fresher in the car if converted to cold on the way in not turning hot air in the car into cold. Now that I type it this idea sounds stupid so I'll just go straight for the recirculation!

        • Not really. I do it too sometimes as I dont need it so cold. But if the temp outside is too hot, I will use recirc all the time. Again if not ridiculously hot, sometimes I also open the sunroof with the ac running too. The cold air falls so it mostly seems to stay in the car, and the pop up shield thingy stops outside air blasting inside.

          I too like fresh air, and cold.

        • I have been toying with running aircon on recirculation until cold enough and then turning the air con off and letting the cold air continue to recirculate. Probably only need to cover every third minute of aircon this way :-) company pays for fuel so call me a considerate employee!

        • company pays for fuel

          Your reluctance to rape the crap out of that offer is not in the spirit of OzBargain.

          Good day to you Sir!!

  • +5

    Yes AC uses lots of petrol. If you have climate control don't just set it to 20 and leave it, set it to low enough to be comfortable, every extra degree takes even more energy. If you have a fixed on/off button don't leave it on, turn in off once you are comfortable.

    Also mixing AC and open windows doesn't work well, if your car is cooler than outside openning the windows just lets the heat back in. On the other hand on a hot day openning the windows first then closing them and turning the AC on will save petrol.

    • -2

      Its not that much more, in the region of around 1L per hour more or so for most vehicles. I wouldnt personally be worrying much much about it, is your comfort worth that little money?

      I leave mine on all the time, never turn it off, all i do is ensure during the colder months that it drys out regularly otherwise it will start to smell.

      The one in my truck (its an electric unit located ontop of the cab) is also run 24/7, its far far more powerful then the average car AC though, and sucks down some serious electricity even on 24v.

      • sucks down some serious electricity even on 24v.

        The power is measured in watts, 24V just means it needs more current to do the same job.

      • +2

        How do you dry it out regularly during the colder months Copie?

        • Run it on heat for several hours. The AC portion still works on my system since it doesnt use engine coolant for the heater core, its reverse cycle almost exactly the same as what you find at home.

        • In this case, the trucks alternator will be under more load to provide the current needed to power the AC, therefore using more fuel. As trucks are usually a diesel big torque monster this load would be barely noticeable.

    • -2

      Car air conditioners don't work like house air cons. The compressor will still be engaged regardless of what temperature you set, it will simply increase or decrease the hot air from the heater being mixed into output.

      • +1

        I assume you are referring to my advice for climate control? Many modern cars with climate control will turn off the compressor. Some will even scale down the compressor load.

        • +1

          Yes. Which ones?

        • My 2004 Volvo does this (on/off, not load scale).

        • -1

          Absolutely cars AC will vary load and will switch on and off based on your in car settings. If you open the engine bay with the AC running (and the car temp inside the car is at its climate controlled temp) you will hear a click. This is the AC compressor engaging and disengaging.

          Every car with an AC drives the accessory belt that loops through the AC compressor regardless if the AC is on or not. Turn the AC on, and the electromagnetic solenoid engages and the compressor is started. This is the point where more fuel is instantly used to drive the compressor.

      • The REALLY old tech does it that way. Think early 1990s.

      • +3

        The opposite is actually the case in pretty much every single automotive compressor I have ever seen (and I have seen quite a few).

        The compressor is usually driven by a belt (often the main belt that drives the alternator etc..) while it's true that the pulley on the compressor is constantly spinning there is a solenoid/clutch system which is electronically engaged / disengaged when you press the "AC" button on your dash. When the AC is off in your car the AC compressor pulley is freewheeling and not actually driving the compressor.

        All climate control does is automates the process of engaging/disengaging the compressor based on cabin temperature.

      • Nope they have an electromagnetic clutch which disengages/engages the compressor. The compressor is not "permanently" on

  • -3

    Answer is, more than you think!

  • -4

    I have a Prius so it doesn't affect me as much :) The electric side of the motor handles the aircon most of the time (and it recharges as you drive anyway).

    • +8

      You shouldn't really be commenting here :)

    • +10

      It affects you exactly as much. The engery has to come from somewhere, either the petrol engine directly, or from the battery which then means the petrol engine needs to start sooner to recharge.

      Potentially due to losses in storage/transmition it actually affects you more.

      • +2

        That's why Storm's a prius owner.

        • +3

          Because they are powered by magic pixie dust?

    • Our two Camry hybrids does show a dramatic increase in fuel consumption when AC is used at lower speeds.

      The electric vehicle mode takes longer to kick in as the AC requires the power from somewhere — whether battery or engine.

      Also, to save fuel, we match the temperature of the inside of the car to the temperature outside as long as it's between 19 - 24 degrees. If the outside temp is > 24 degrees, we leave it at 24. If it's lower than 19 (e.g. winter rainy day) we leave it at 19. However, on the newer Camry hybrid there are full sized front weathershields, thereby avoiding the AC entirely on winter rainy days unless it's absolutely freezing outside and a bit of heating is needed.

      At 80+km/h we always close the windows. However, if weather permitting the AC may still not be used as we then let the air in from outside, but that is quite rare. Inside tunnels the AC always goes on regardless.

      If driving alone without passengers, there is a far less likelihood I'd use AC as well.

  • +3

    Turn your AC on when braking or coasting and back off when you apply the throttle again. That way it should only take power from the car's kinetic energy which you're wasting anyway.

    • -2

      This logic is flawed. It only works in specific circumstances to help with engine breaking, in most circumstances it does not help.

      • When braking or coasting you are engine braking. Unless you ride the clutch which you shouldn't.

        • -2

          Coasting yes, braking no (mostly). And this will increase the amount of engine breaking, which may or may not be what you want.

        • +8

          No way I want a broken engine ;)

        • Explain how would engine braking kill your engine?

        • If you break your engine, you have killed it.

    • I thought I was the only one that did this. True Ozbargain style!

      • If you want to get really frugal, you can manually minimise fuel consumption;

        1. Turn the ac off at lights/stops and when you are about to accelerate.

        2. Turn the ac back on only once at a constant cruising speed or de-accelerating.

        3. Turn the ac off when overtaking (most modern cars will automatically disengage the ac under a kick down scenario or when 100% throttle is applied - not recommended if you are trying to save fuel!)

        4. Turn off the ac when arriving at a hill or a road scenario that will require more throttle input than normal as the ac will exponentially raise the percentage of normal fuel consumption because of the excess load of the ac, only turn it on when you are back on light throttle.

        Of course these 'rules' will apply more to some cars than others, particularly older, smaller 4cyl cars that are low in the tourque/power department.

  • yes (thanks cleaseau!)

  • The energy needed to drive the A/C compressor has to come from somewhere….usually petrol/ diesel!

  • -1

    I like to use my car to watch DVD's in with the aircon on for about 30mins during a lunch break. Is that really bad for fuel or only a few dollars?

    • It's bad for fuel and the environment. It will be 'only' a few dollars, but that is a matter of perspective.

      • +1

        Bad for the environment compared to using a home residential aircon running at several kW off coal power through the grid?

        • Worse. Petrol costs more.

        • +1

          Much worse. Petrol engines are at most 30% efficient.

        • Most electrical energy in australia comes from coal powered power stations, with typical efficiencies of 35%

        • That is average, most cars will average half that.

        • I'd love to see your research how you arrived at this value. The turbines themselves all have efficiencies upwards of 90%. Even with transmission losses that is a really low number.

        • If a car engine was very efficient, it wouldn't need such an elaborate cooling system. It would also be very quiet!

        • @jagsman were you talking to me?

    • +1

      Id be more worried about glazing the bores having it idle like that for long periods. Motors arent designed for that (well ones found in cars anyways)

      • The car locks me out of the navigation functions while in motion though so there's no choice but to use it except for when stopped.

        Maybe I'll just watch DVD's on battery then instead of the aircon too :(

        • Maybe consider watching movies on your laptop and let your car have a break? I get that there is novelty value though!

  • +1

    This being ozbargain, to save fuel, there are ways to optimise your AC.

    AC uses a compressor which is essentially a pump that requires energy to run, thats where your fuel comes in and your hip pocket.

    If your AC system is low on charge, assuming its in good condition, then it will be inefficient and produce 'warmer' cool air. So when having the AC serviced have it recharged to specs and if not done for some time replacing the drier at the same time may be a good idea. Also servicing is cheaper in winter months if you can wait that long.

    Most people know when there engine is most efficient, i.e. bad waiting at traffic lights, stop/starting in traffic and good at constant highway speeds. Therefore running your AC when your car more fuel efficient will decrease the amount of fuel used by the AC.

    • Most people know when there engine is most efficient, i.e. bad waiting at traffic lights, stop/starting in traffic and good at constant highway speeds. Therefore running your AC when your car more fuel efficient will decrease the amount of fuel used by the AC.

      I don't follow your logic. The engine efficiency you are talking about depends on speed because it is measured over KM traveled. AC energy requirement is fixed regardless of speed. The best speed (purely for the AC) is as fast as your car can go, so you get there sooner and turn it off.

      • Your assumption 'AC energy requirement is fixed regardless of speed' is wrong - depends on engine rpm(direct drive off the motor) with increased friction, pumping losses and other variables.

        If you're potting along at 1500rpm and come up to a hill and the engine increases to 4000rpm the corresponding compressor rpm increases proportionally. Where do you think this energy comes from?

        • All of this is gear dependent - ie: don't over rev. This is very different to being at idle vs 40 vs 80. Also the energy requirement IS fixed. For climate control the higher rev condenser will cool more, and be turned off sooner. If you have a manual button the temp will still drop quicker and you can turn it off.

        • Is there a need to factor in HP of the engine. Power curve over the full range of RPM will rise sharply then flatten on a graph such as those from a dyno? Torque etc is relevant here.

          ie: Engines deliver an increase in HP very cheaply at particular RPMs, and the necessary RPMs for a given increase in hp vary based on factors like cam, head work etc, within a specific model and factory spec. Not to mention gearing and where that places the engine within that power curve for a given speed. When you factor various models and makers and factory specs, you get endless possibilities due to various standard factory power outputs and power curves, then add in custom, and the various makers of compressor, and you get endless possibilities without even considering road and environmental impacts.

          Yes its true the compressor requires a set amount of hp to run it (and various compressors require different amounts of HP), but the cost to deliver that hp varies with much more than simple speed. Obviously it will cost something, but the notion that it must add a similar amount to someone elses, at a specific generic speed is wrong.

          There is no way to give an accurate or even ball park figure. There are just way too many variables.

          Look at a graph from a dyno and look at the steep increase in hp or torque. 100 rpm increase could add 10hp. While 100 rpm at 2200 rpm is less than 5% increase in RPM but will not necessarily equate to nearly 5% increase in fuel consumption.

          An engine at 60kmh might be delivering 50hp, while at 110 its delivering 140 hp. While another engine might be designed for city driving and deliver the bulk of its hp much lower in speed.

          Seriously, no point listening too much to people with different cars. Just work out your own, and run with that. At least look to similar spec cars.

  • +3

    For me, I lose up to 50km a tank when using the aircon. A tank give me 450km roughly.

    source: Tradesman constantly stopping, off/on, work ute.

  • +2

    I'm often picked on by my wife and family for NEVER using my air-conditioning. I live in Metro Melb, have a 2002 Peugeot 1.6L Auto, and can safely say the air con adds 20% to the cost of running my car + it slows the car down by 20% if going under 100kph. Call me stingy or OzBrainwashed, but I'd rather be hot and have the money in my pocket!

    • +1

      any facts to back up what sounds like a very overstated claim?

      • He's fairly right, but the 20% cost estimations are a bit extreme.

    • it slows the car down by 20% if going under 100kph

      so if you are going 99km/h and turn the a/c on your are then automatically going 79km/h..and then if you leave it on 63km/h and then 50km/h and then….etc etc

      • +2

        He's talking about the effect on his RPM's (or the ability to accelerate rapidly), rather than his speed.

    • Your air-conditioning usage is equivalent to 20% of the cost of depreciation, maintenance, consumables and insurance?

    • I know this is OzBargain, but do people really calculate how much money it will cost them to run aircon in their car and would rather drive around on a hot day with no aircon and rely on the windows being down to save a few dollars? Windows down does nothing; anyone who says otherwise is lying. But I guess with a 1.6L the aircon really does make a difference to power :)

      • Don't underestimate the power of open windows! Yep, 1.6L and air con is a disaster.

  • +1

    The compressor uses quite a bit of energy to maintain, at an idle it pretty much doubles your fuel consumption.

    Whilst you are driving it can add 5 - 15% (varies depending on the power of your car of course).

    The compressor is used whilst your A/C is active.

    Next time you're in the CAR, sit on idle, and watch the RPMs, then toggle the A/C on and off and observe the result. Do the same whilst you're coasting or driving, with constant pressure on the acceleration pedal. (Take care!)

    You'll notice a loss in torque if you maintain constant pressure on the pedal and you engage the A/C.

    • Not so obvious in a diesel vehicle. I run aircon all the time as it stops the windscreen from fogging up

    • It's not as much as you are implying, remember most modern AC compressors are of a clutch design, so they only engage as needed.

  • +2

    As a diesel driver I notice the aircon at half blast (coldest setting), takes roughly 50-75km off a regular tank of fuel. I get anywhere from 800-950km per tank depending on the driving I'm doing. That's about the highest I ever have the a/c, unless it gets to around 40deg or more

    I often wonder if setting the temperature a bit higher and upping the fan speed is more efficient than setting it to cold on a low fan speed? I have always assumed the latter is more efficient.

    I remember my old Mazda 626 (which was a great car) used to suffer a fair bit of power loss with the AC cranking. Modern cars don't seem to experience this as much.

    • +1

      I often wonder if setting the temperature a bit higher and upping the fan speed is more efficient than setting it to cold on a low fan speed? I have always assumed the latter is more efficient.

      The former is much better. Fan speed doesn't take much power, and air blowing over your skin helps to cool you down a lot without dropping the temperature of the car. The AC needs to do a lot of work to drop the temperature, and every degree lower inside compared to outside means that more power is needed to maintain the temperature.

  • +1

    Mythbusters tested this on one of their episodes and found that to improve fuel efficiency:
    80kmph+ aircon on and windows closed
    0 - 80kmph aircon off and windows open

    google it to find the episode.

    Cheers.

    • That was with windows wound all the way down. I find that at 100 kh I only need to wind down the windows an inch or so to get ventilation.

      In a Toyota Yaris auto I get about 550 ks out of a full tank, maybe 10% less with ac.

  • My cars trip computer tells me that my air con uses around 0.5L per 100km

  • +1

    Although some what irrelevant to this debate, for us whities of Northern European heritage there is an obvious reason to drive with air-con on that for me is significantly more important than maximising fuel economy. Driving with the windows up filters UVB radiation (and UVA if you have appropriate tinting) thus minimising damage to the epidermal layers and the associated risk of skin cancer. Of course you could always "slip slop slap" before driving.

  • I have the windows down when driving around town as my car speed will always be 50-60 as it's mostly 50 limits around here. Once I get on the highway it's windows up as I don't like living in a vortex and the noise of which the chugging is worst. I've noticed that I can get around 5% better fuel consumption in cool winter conditions when I have AC off continuously. I reckon having the aircon on is about as detrimental effect on petrol consumption as is E10. So air con on plus E10 = 10% worse fuel consumption.

    I often wonder what affect the low or high speeds have, I realise that climate control is a whole different thing. I'm under the impression that high and low is basically fan speed. So low fan speed just sends less cold air into the cabin. Though high fan speed would also burn a tiny bit more fuel by itself, but probably not worth thinking about.

  • +5

    Its 44 here today in Perth - doesn't make any difference if the window is up or down - its still raging hot !

    • Bingo, 44 outside, 54 in the car haha.

  • I heard that car air conditioners do not have any lubricant, they apparently use the coolant as lube, so by not using it then chances are it'll cease up and then you'll have to pay to repair it. Not sure if this is true, but we use ours on 24° each zone in summer and it has never let us down.

    • AFAIK, there is oil which circulates with the gas. Lube only needs to be in the compressor as nothing else in the air con needs lube. The fan will probably have grease or some such in its motor/bearings, but isnt technically part of the AC.

      Yes, not using them will perish seals throughout the system. The compressor also has seals in it and lack of use will ruin he ability of the compressor to pressurise the gas.

      Run it once a week for a minute or two and you should be fine.

      I live in Qld, so I just run the AC, its far more comfortable to do so.

    • If anyone wants to know how refrigerators (that's what aircon really is), look up Linde Refrigeration cycle.
      The concept is exactly the same for both to cool gases.

  • my neighbour had her car parked in the hot sun and turned on the aircon and her windscreen cracked. beware of this. best to put windows down a bit i guess?

    • This only happens when you have the aircon set to defrost, ive only ever seen it happen once, and it was with an old front window that wasnt laminated, never seen it happen on a laminated one.

  • Yes, it puts extra load on your engine therefore your engine needs more fuel to stay at the correct RPM.

  • +4

    My a/c is running whenever my car is running, all year round.

    As a result I have:

    Cool air in warmer weather.
    Dehumidified air in colder weather.
    Filtering of airborne pollutants.

    The benefits far outweigh any extra fuel consumption that may occur (if you're than anal in the first place).

    Plus I don't drive around for leisure. It's to get from A to B (in which comfort trumps all).

  • +2

    Hi Guys,

    I did my own experiment for this a while ago.

    TEST VEHICLE: Honda Civic Hatch
    Tank size: 40L
    Average kms per 40L: 500-550km
    Kms with aircon ALWAYS ON: 460-480km
    Used only to and from work.

    In conclusion, I saw a loss of about 30km, which in my opinion is well worth it to have the aircon on running continuously. I wouldn't worry too much about it, having said that I only turn it on when its actually needed.

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