New Toyota Camry fuel consumption is 13L/100km

Parents recently bought a new Toyota Camry 2013 base Altise model with the end of year sale, replacing the 15 year old Toyota Vienta v6, and we were hoping that the engine size goes from 3.0 v6 to the new 2.5 would be more fuel efficient, however with the first few weeks and the petrol top ups, we found it drinking the same amount of petrol as the old car.

Contacted the sales Rep, reply was you need to drive the car for about 20,000 km before you can get a good average.. That would take us about two years before we get to those kind of mileage.

Official Toyota website says 7.8l per 100km, it says tests on regular unleaded, and we have been using shell e10, so 10% less fuel efficient is expected, also they might quote freeway testing and we are using normal suburban traffic, not city traffic, but at 13l per 100km is a bit off.

What do you guys think? Do you really have to drive a few thousand km before the fuel consumption to improve significantly?

Comments

  • +5

    that's really quite quite dependent on a whole lot of things. the 7.8 figure for instance is the mixed rating and 'normal' city/suburban would be 10-11 for a 2.5L camry. your driving habit, what type of fuel you use etc also impacts on the efficiency.

    also i wouldn't use e10 no matter whether a car takes it or not. you really aren't saving much at all after accounting for efficiency of the fuel and you won't do your engine any favours running e10 over a decade

    • I agree that e10 has 10% of rubbish, so I did factor in as a draw back.

      Also I should clarify that I would never expect 7.8, was probably looking at around 10, but 13 (in fact was 13.3), that's close to double of 7.8, I just thought that was a bit far off.

      • +2

        In an NRMA Open road ma few years ago they said the 3c/Lt saving in price for e10 basically exactly of set the lower fuel economy, so 10% is a very, very conservative estimate, I would say it's more like 2% according to them as petrol was about a buck 40.

        Also it seems to me the people pushing this idea that e10 is bad for your car rely on anecdotal evidence and happen to be dealerships and mechanics. These 2 groups have a conflict of interest, in that they love blaming petrol for poor performance, after all who can argue with that? It's like arguing about whether there's a god or not.

        If they were going to buy a Camry and we're concerned at all about petrol or the environment they should have bought the Hybrid, apparently 20 bucks fuel gets you 300km, that's the same fuel economy as my motorcycle!

        • why would your mechanic have a conflict of interest by advising against e10? if anything they should tell you e10 is great so you come back to them more.

          E10 is a mixture of fuel and ethanol. The Australian Government has limited the amount of ethanol in petrol in Australia to a maximum of 10%. Ethanol is a renewable fuel, currently made locally from waste products such as sugar cane.

          What problems have been identified with E10?

          One of the major issues with ethanol is that it is a solvent. Solvents are drying agents and can disintegrate or dissolve parts. Another issue is that alcohol absorbs water, and for these reasons, ethanol can be very harmful to the fuel system components. A few of the issues that we have seen in the workshop over the last six months include:

          Fuel pump failure, with a number of fuel pumps overheating and burning out prematurely after E10 fuel damaged the plastic within the pump
          Fuellines disintegrating, as the ethanol in E10 attacks both the metallic and rubber-based fuel lines
          Fuel injectors damaged, with the plastic components within injectors getting eaten away from the ethanol
          Water in the fuel system, resulting in engines hesitating and running roughly.
          Ethanol has an affininity to water that can result in the corrosion of fuel tanks and fuel lines – rust resulting from this corrosion can block the fuel supply, resulting in the engine being inoperable. While the corrosion concern has been somewhat addressed by the requirement to add a corrosion inhibitor to the ethanol, the effect of ethanol on seals in the fuel system remains unaddressed.

          E10 may appear cheaper at the bowser, but it also increases the long-term maintenance costs for your vehicle!
          http://www.productionautomotive.com.au/blog/e10-fuel-the-inf…

        • +7

          What I mean is anytime something goes wrong with a car it is easy for mechanics to blame ethanol or other fuel issues as it can't be proven incorrect, hence a dishonest mechanic may use a cheap part or not fit something correctly and then blame ethanol for the issue.

          Note that most of the issues refer to rubber and plastic parts. These parts in new cars these days have had their composition changed so that ethanol doesn't cause any issues for them. Considering the OP is talking about current models there should be no issues.

      • it really depends on how you drive and what road you use
        mine 2.5L camry only has 7.8L/100km on the clock

    • +1
      • and would have probably thrashed the tits off of it

  • +2

    It's not unusual for you to have to work in the engine to get good consumption. Also the oil in a new car is slightly thinner, so it may use a lot of engine oil too until the first change.

    Also you can't expect to get the claimed 7.8L/100km. Just not going to happen

    • Yep, not expecting 7.8
      :)

    • Yes but only because the number are BS and being gamed by the manufacturer. Why do we still deal with this issue when there is a govt standard?

  • Your situation is kind of like broadband. You pay for up to 100mbps speed but only get 20mbps at most times of the day. What can you do about it? Nothing.

    • +2

      Get cable?

      • +1

        Already got cable. Need the NBN, but that is just a dream now.

        • Nope the NBN is still being retained - stop fibbing. NBN = National broadband network not Fibre to the home, that was in a previous life.

        • I'll have you know the nbn was unoffically renamed to the national fraudband network.

    • It's not like that all…

      • I agree, manufacturers need to be very careful what they claim/test and advertise.

        Otherwise they would just claim 0.1/100klm.

        What they do however is pick a day with a bit of a tail wind, flat test road or down hill slightly etc.

        some are more honest and use real world testing. You can actually beat some of their claims by (illegal) slip streaming trucks. I don't suggest it as you might save 2/100 or about $3-4 vs. rear ending a truck at 110klm and loosing your head

  • +1

    Really it depends on how your parents drive and where they drive to. In the city the stop start motion of the car take lots of petrol. Whereas, in the urban like highway, fuel efficiency is amazing.

    Talking to Reps would not help at all from my experience :( they will just blame the traffic and place you drive to :(

    For me the best way to save fuel was to put car in neutral when it is stopped at the traffic light and making a slow acceleration from stop. I think it helps a bit :)

    hope that helped :)

    • Friends have done that but some have totally wrecked their gear box, not sure if that's individual case or not, but wouldn't want to risk it for the sake of saving petrol

      Plus parents are old school and wouldn't do this, has to be proper :)

      • By the sound of it, seems like they opted for an auto instead of a manual, that was their first mistake if you want to save fuel. Even when driving an auto you have to try your best not to stop and go all the time, don't accelerate too much if you're gonna have to hit the brakes at the next lights and try to use the breaks as little as possible, not only will you save your brakes, tyres and suspension, it also means that all that fuel you already used to get the car up to that speed won't be wasted. That's how I try to drive in the city, just take your time to do everything and avoid doing anything too quick so you can time all your green lights :)

        Toyota are liars in their advertising and there's nothing you can do about that, but you can try to change your driving style and that will make a massive difference. If you want to see what the best mileage possible is, just get on a flat highway without much traffic, keep your speed at 90 km/h (or whatever, depending on which rpm is more efficient for your motor in top gear) do about 200km on it and top up your tank again and check how much you've used. Don't just believe what the onboard computer tells you.

        • The Altise is always automatic

    • +1

      putting it in neutral doesn't do anything for fuel consumption it just disengages the transmission from the engine. the engine is still running at the same RPMS (sometimes higher RPM).

      • +2

        Not sure why you got negged. If its an auto your 100% right

    • and getting a heavy car like a camry rolling, takes some energy. i had to push my brothers off the road last year - I know :o)

    • Please explain how putting the car in neutral when stopped at lights saves fuel? Sounds like garbage to me….

      • If its a traditional torque converter automatic, when left in drive whilst at the lights, there is still some load placed on the transmission (hence when you take your foot off the brake it rolls forward immediately)

        However for downhill slopes, its best left in gear because all modern cars will switch the injectors off when it senses the rolling of the transmission/drivetrain will turn the motor over without needing the combustion process.

        • But that extra "load" would lead to 0 extra fuel used. The engine is idling - whether in neutral or drive. Therefore, exactly the same amount of fuel flowing through the injectors.

          I agree with you on the second point though. That's why fuel consumption meters, where fitted, drop to 0 when coasting downhill.

        • You will find though that your RPM is different at neutral vs in drive with a conventional automatic transmission, because it is engaged to the output shaft there is extra load (more rotating mass) so you will use more fuel.

  • +4

    Just as a comparison the sticker on my Mazda CX-9 said 11.2L per 100km when I bought it - I've never achieved less than 16L per 100km over the past 21,000kms…

    Perhaps its still "running in" - but I doubt it.

    Scary….

    • Great comparison, exactly what I wanted to find out, whether you guys have similar experience. Cheers.

      • +1

        13L/100km's seems high to me, my 2007 Aurion, is a 3.5L Supercharged V6— on mainly highway driving I can get sub 10's (normally around the 9 mark— trip computer says 8L/100km's but I work my mileage out using the fill it, reset tripometer and refill…

        City driving, it's more around 11-12… it's surprising that a vehicle 6 years later with a smaller engine would be thirstier than that…

        • +1

          Exactly, we bought the altise for 27k, and we were tempted to go for the aurion for 3k more, we are now very gutted that we didn't get the aurion had we known that it's so fuel efficient.

          We choose the altise for the smaller engine and less fuel. :(

        • +2

          Common misconception and it staggers me that people even still buy Camries, let alone how popular they are (never mind how rubbish they are to drive). You can't get away with powering a car that big with a 4 cylinder engine.

          People will only start to realise this once the big aussie six is welly and truly gone. :(

          Couldve bought an FG XR6 Falcon for about $27k, would've been a far superior car overall. I easily get 10 l/100km out of my BF Mk2 XR6 Turbo, so long as I keep it off boost :)

        • The Aurion isn't supercharged and it sounds as if the OP is mainly doing suburban driving with minimal highway, which means they should be using way more fuel.

          CX9s are famous for being fuel hungry. Big heavy body and small engine.

          FWIW, I used to get 14L/100km when I had an Aurion. I now drive a 3.6L Subaru Outback and get 10.6. I get about 6L/100km when I rent a Camry every 2 months…but thats almost all country highway driving lol

        • As much as I like Falcons, and the fact they are more mechanically reliable than Commodores, the Toyotas sell for pretty much one reason: long term reliability. Many people still happily driving Camrys and Corollas that are older than the OPs old one.

          Apart from that they are blander inside, have smaller motors, are smaller cars, don't look as good, the list goes on. Same reason they hold their value.

        • Actually, the Aurion is supercharged… There was both TRD did runs on both Hilux and Aurion where they supercharged them…

        • +1

          A TRD Aurion isn't a normal Aurion. Having driven a normal Aurion for a few years, I would hate to drive the TRD one. The normal one had enough torque steer as it was.

        • I've driven both, albeit the TRD a lot more than the normal one, and while it took a few days to get used to, I find it a great drive…

        • thanks NOT how it works, a small engine in a big car drinks fuel and dosent save it! hence why the 6cl in the same size car is more fuel efficent

    • +3

      There is definitely a run-in periods for some cars though. With Golfs, first moth was averaging about 12L/100km.

      But after the first oil change settled down to 8L/100km.

      tbh - I would suggest finding a Toyota forum and asking there. More likely to get a relevant response

      • Good to hear, and looking forward to the first oil change, that would probably be in twelve months time.

        • Get it done when the book tells you to, even if you haven't made it to the odometer mark yet.

    • -7

      You pay four times as much for fuel as I do in my 3.8L/100km Prius and you're on OzBargain?

      • +4

        You pay more to buy your Prius than a golf or Camry, and need to get new batteries every so often, and you're on OzBargain?

        • +2

          Also the greater depreciation on a prius offsets the savings, (checked their resale value lately)

          plus you cant tow a boat trailer or caravan with a prius,

          This added to the need to keep in mind the OP parents drive less than 10000K's a year

          AND you're on Ozbargain :)

      • lol I didn't know they put tampons on wheels =P

    • what do expect though? Its a 1800kg + SUV, and thats without a driver or passengers running a 3.6l V6.

      If there's one car that needs a turbo diesel its this one.

  • +1

    I've got the 2012 Camry Altise, and average 9.1l/km (normal Ron 91 fuel) according to the car. Normal suburban driving mostly.

    • That's interesting, looks like fuel efficiency do improve over time.

      We are using e10 as the fill up entrance point has a sticker saying it takes e10, if I remember correctly, but looks like you guys in this bargain forum mostly go with regular instead of e10. :)

      • I should have been more clear - official Toyota brochure also says 7.8l/km, but the car's on board computer says 9.1l/km.
        The 2012 and 2013 are the same if I remember correctly (perhaps minor differences only).

        I'm in Perth and there's no e10 :)

        • I have the 2012 Altise too, and I get about 9.6L/100km, my dad can get it to 7.8L.. he drives very slow!

      • 91 also has ethanol. it's a bit of a marketing gimmick when e10 has been given a bad name. my mechanic tells me to stick with 95 on my circa 08 corolla which has that e10 sticker too

      • E10 won't damage engines engineered to take it, the downside is you get a 2.5% discount over unleaded and get ~ 5% worse fuel consumption.

      • e10 is almost 10% less energy, whats worse is e10 ron 91 is watered down! if ron91+e10 is now called premium e10 with a ron of 95! ethonol will up the RON rating of fuel but will deliver less energy, so dont use it unless your saving 10c a L (it more like 3c these days so not worth it) go RON 91 as its real RON value is closer to RON 95 in tests shown on TV

        • Its actually more like 4%.

  • +1

    Back when I had my newly purchased Subaru wrx (2010 model) fuel consumption was at about 14L/100km. By about the 30k mark it had dropped to around 11-12L/100km by the time I sold it at 65k she was at 10.2 and pretty much sat on those figures between 45k-65k.

    • Getting around same figures off an MY11 @ around 40000 kms =D

      • +1

        Running standard tune im assuming?

        Im running a MY11 wrx with stage 1 TP tune @19psi and get 9.4-10.2 highway, 11-12.5 suburban.

        A Camry using more fuel then my boosted subi is madness.

        • Yup standard tune, bone stock, been recently getting around 12.5L/100km suburban + heavy use of air conditioning.

          Looking to get custom tune soon + turbo back exhaust upg :)

  • after your first major service (15k) on a highway drive (say 1000k+ with a reset trip & cruise control at say 95kph you will get about 8L/100km & it will be about the only time you will see it. the camary 4cl isnt that fuel efficent as the 6cl Aurion gets about the same but often better fuel effiency (alas for your parents)

    They will save a bit more on rego over a 6cl and a bit less on servicing (the cost of 2 extra spark plugs)

    They should have gotten a festiva, or dizl focus if fuel was an issue

  • +1

    I still don't understand why people not choosing Diesel.
    My 2.0 A4 runs 6.8L/100K in average 35km/hr travel.

    • Our Grand Cherokee diesel is listed as 7.5lt/100km combined, we get about 7.9lt. or if I am driving, then it’s a heavy foot, 8.9lt/100km.
      Not bad for 2267kg vehicle.

      Diesels for shot run city cars can be a huge problem with DPFs filling up very quickly with the exhaust not getting hot enough to cause a regen or burn of particulates before regen is required.
      If it’s a diesel without a DPF, then it is of course not an issue.

    • I bought a brand new car late last year, and while I definately don't represent the vast majority of people, test driving a couple of cars had me crossing Automatics, CVTs, DSGs and Diesels of the list.

      I crossed diesels of the list because of a lack of availability in car I wanted, more expensive upfront costs; higher maintainence costs … I'm guessing others have similar reasons.

      I didn't have the funds to try out an upmarket Euro, and I'm pretty sure it isn't an issue in European cars so much, but I believe that the others diesels don't drive as nicely either… the Hyundais etc certainly didn't.

    • Because TFSI Quattro is where it's at. I'd never buy a TDI Multitronic.

    • People not choosing diesel because of higher costs involved in purchasing the vehicle.
      Also it doesn't quite fit some people's life style.

      If you don't do long distances, you will need to learn how to clean out the diesel filter very frequently or pay somebody to do it. Since the only time it really only gets to clean itself out automatically is when you drive for longer distances.

      Like if you only drove for 10minutes in the morning and then 10min in the afternoon to get to and from work. Your diesel filter is going to be dirty very quick and will require cleaning or replacing.

      And it is alittle strange that you are getting so high fuel consumption, the figure they have on the website that you have quoted 7.8lt is combined, therefore you should only expect around 9lt/100km as being conservative.

      Remember there is also a break in period for you too when you buy a new car, to get used to how to drive it well and efficently. e.g. how much pressure you need to put on the peddle and letting go of the peddle when it maxes on 1 of the gears when you are accelerating.

      Give it a month or 2, after you get used to it, you may see the consumption go down.

      • Many (most?) modern diesel cars are self cleaning. They burn the particles at high temperature. They're mixed in with some of fluid that is then burnt during combustion. Look it up - that's all I know but I'm sure the interwebs can explain it.

        • What? I presume your talking about DPF units (Diesel Particulate filter) and SCR (Selective catalytic reduction)

          DPF is a filter located in the exhaust of a diesel vehicle, generally located fairly close to the turbocharger, and is made of a ceramic material that filters out nox particles. When the filter starts to fill (usually around 30% or so) the motor will start whats called an active regen, and in the case of most passenger vehicles, use post combustion injection (which is injecting diesel after the combustion stroke on the 4 stroke cycle) to cause higher exhaust temps which clears out the filter. This process is also done by passive regeneration, where prolonged high speed running (aka 100kmh) will allow the exhaust temp to be high enough for it to burn off the particles passively.

          SCR is basically Adblu, using a urea product injected into the exhaust to reduce emissions output. SCR is far more reliable and less prone to problems then DPF units, however most manufacturers do not use SCR because of the cost to implement it.

      • Not to mention driving a diesel, even with a DPF exposes you to higher carcinogenic materials than a petrol car.

  • +1

    My 95 Hilux Turbo Diesel gets 11-12L /100km ;) She only has 285,000k's on the clock!

    But what others have said it can take a while for the engine to 'run in'

  • +1

    brand new cars or engines are a little tight and need to break in, also check your tyre pressures

    • +5

      cars aren't the only thing that are tight when new

      • Sorry wrong button, was meant to hit the plus, but I cannot change it.. Sorry

      • Plugged on behalf of fatpeople.

      • don't understand, need you to show me pictures ;-)

        or video

      • +1

        Your jeans?

  • +5

    The expected fuel economy drop from using E10 instead of straight unleaded is only 3%, not 10%. Ethanol contains 70% of the energy per litre of unleaded, so a 30% drop on the 10% content is only 3% overall. In normal driving conditions that vary so widely due to traffic, temperature, and driver control most people don't notice the 3%.

    Check that tire pressures are within spec. If your car is still burning massively too much fuel it either is running extremely rich (damaging the catalytic converter) or there is a fuel leak somewhere (should be able to smell it). If they plug in their OBD-II and say everything is running fine and tuned they could be reading off faulty sensors.

    Don't let the dealership fob you off with 'the engine is still tight, wait a few thousand kilometres'. It's a blatant lie. I have been keeping the fuel stats for my car since new and there was practically no difference in consumption from new into later years. Don't let the dealership start the line of 'maybe you didn't break it in just right/slowly/gently/too slowly/etc'

  • +5

    I think it's a little funny that my 1976 toyota corona (330k on the odo) can achieve 7.6lt/100km highway driving, and in all this time the newer toyota petrol engines struggle to do the same?

    • +1

      Amazing how bulletproof those cars are. My cousin drives an 85 Corolla that he bought for $250.00 with a RWC and it still gets between 7 and 8 L/100k.

    • +1

      I had the 82 with the GM Starfire engine, and while it had a couple of minor leaks pizzas were never delivered so quick and reliably

  • Shorter trips skew your true results.

    Take it for a 1 hr drive freeway/highway drive and once you are at cruising speed reset your trip meter, which should also reset your fuel calculation.

    I have seen my wife drive teh SUV around the burbs and it show 11-12L/100km, but this is all short trips in suburbian traffic. Once on the open road, I have gotten this down to 7.4L/100km with it fully laden with family of 6 and fully Roof box.

    A 40km trip down the M5 in Sydney at the tail end of peak hour with moderate traffic brings it down to a reasonable 8-9L/100km.

    Sitting in the driveway with the AC on and car idling will show 13-14L/100km! (3.0L diesel)

    YMMV

    • +5

      Wouldn't idling - by definition - be infinite L/100km?

  • Given what has been said here I guess the 7 -8 l/ 100km I get now is quite decent however I was getting 10-11l per 100 km on my Toyota Camry. What made the difference? Switching from the cheaper fuel to the 98 octane premium fuel from 95 octane which is 6-9 cents more expensive on average or 5-6% more on my bill for a gain of 35%-50% fuel economy. It is a no brainer plus the car runs better and its better for the engine. I did test multiple fuels (mostly because I could not believe that a 3 octane difference yielded such huge results) and the clear winner for value was the 98 octane fuel. So you might want to check out the premium fuels if you don't use them already.

  • For further comparison, my 2.lL diesel sedan will give me approximately 6.4L/100km to work and back. an 85km round trip.

    A 30Km trip on the M7 (sydney western orbital) in top gear, will drop this to 4.2L/100km and maybe a tad more with the AC on, on stinking hot days like today.

  • I am driving the same car 2012 model. I think it's basically the same. So here is my data (using #91 ): High way 6.5-6.9L/100km, combine 8.5-8.9L/100km. It was calculated when I just brought it (done <3000km).

    I did the calculation again when I got 20,000km done on my car…it's the same, this time with E10.

    PS: you have to fill up many times and get the average to be representative.

    Andrew

    • I think 2012 and 2013 models are exactly the same 2.5 litre engine..

      Won't be doing much freeway driving, but the daily trip to work is around 40km return, so it would be suburban drive and no traffic jam.

      When you say getting the average down, are you referring to the dashboard average?

  • +1

    Wish i got 13L/100km my average is around the 70L/100km, jumping up to around 400L/100km under heavy conditions.

    • +1

      What?!

    • +2

      Haha, you mean yourself drinking 70 litre of water and you can run 100km? :)

      • No as in my average economy is around the 1.31km per litre of diesel used. When under heavy load i average around 250 meters per litre of diesel used.

        2500L of diesel gets me around 3000-3500km give or take.

      • +1

        Looking at his avatar, he is driving a semi. Never knew that they were that thirsty.

        • Think of how much diesel gets burned to put that tin of tomatoes on the supermarket shelf. Blimey.

        • Well for me, its to put petrol/diesel at service stations so you can fill your own cars and drive them.

          135,000L at a time.

  • -1

    2011 Toyota Aurion Touring 3.0L (Made in Australia) 10-11L/100KMS

    2000 Toyota Chaser 2.5L Turbo (Made in Japan) 9-10L/100KMS

    For a 11 year old car to have relatively good fuel economy is quiet surprising or does it come down to Japanese quality VS Australian quality?

    • The turbo would be making sure more fuel is burned more efficiently in the engine by making sure more fresh air gets to the cylinder. It's probably tuned for efficiency and not power

      • Turbo is rated 208KW which is the same as the Aurion V6

        • Fair enough but logic still stands

    • how heavy is the chaser?

      • -1

        1500kg

  • Wow. I get upset anytime my 2013 Holden Cruze SRi-V goes above 7.8l per 100km. The specs suggest it should be getting 6.4l I think it was, but since I bought it I have averaged between 7.5l and 8.5l which really annoys me. So far it has yet to do more then a 30 min drive, so ive hoped that when I take it on a trip that fixes it up a bit.

    Thought maybe it was my driving. So i have tried altering how I use the clutch, gears, taking off, slowing up etc. to minimise fuel usage. Has barely helped, but keeps me under 8l for the most part. But never managed to get near the specs. Im not even 10,000km in yet, so hopefulyy ot improves. But even if it doesn't, atleast its not as far off as others seem to be.

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