Decent price for Magnatec, good time to stock up.
Combine with the free $5 credit for membership sign up to get it down to $16.44 which is a great price.
https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/243802
Castrol Magnatec 5L 10W-40 $21.44 at Supercheap Auto, Save 50%
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engineeringprof on 28/09/2016 - 17:46 supercheapauto.com.au (1222 clicks)
Last edited 28/09/2016 - 17:47
Last edited 28/09/2016 - 17:47
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Would this not still be of use to you considering heading into summer?
just changed the oil/filter last week…timing huh? :P
Ha ha the timing you right!
Yeah same. I have to hang in for the 10w-30 deals
down to two botttles of oil. This will will do to fill up the shelf again.
What is the different properties. I was told 10w50 but they used 10w40 on service. Are they a little bit flexible?
10w40 is pretty much general viscosity, 10w50 is a heavier oil for when its warmed up and can see higher temperatures.. good for racing, hot summers. In reality for everyday car doesn't matter so much, just go by whats stated within your car owners manual.
First number (10) is weight of oil in cold temps and last number after the W is the weight of oil in warm temps.
thank you
Love the stuff. I add a little to my protein shake in the morning. Keeps me well lubricated…
Goes like a frog in a sock
You should try drinking engine coolant goes down a treat
Can I just ask everyone out of curiosity? What do you do with bulk of this oil? Service car yourself? Others? What is its use?
Servicing my own cars.
How did you guys acquire that skill? Is it something of interest or learnt it? And how?
I love cars lol. That interest leads to learning. It's quite easy to do it yourself. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube and the internet that should get you on the right track. I myself had the skills handed down to me; I also did a few light vehicle courses at TAFE.
Just pick up a haynes workshop manual for your cars make/model or the actual manufacturers workshop manual. It's pretty much a step by step guide for all your cars mechanical needs with troubleshooting steps FAQ questions, etc. It has a servicing section as well. If your patient and can follow technical literature you can service/fix almost anything on your car. Once you get your hands dirty a little, you pretty much pickup more things as you go along.
If you can put in a light bulb, you can generally change your own oil.
Firstly, undo the oil cap, then unscrew the sump plug, let the oil drain and once complete, re-seal it. Unscrew the oil filter and let that drain out and replace with a fresh unit. Top up with fresh oil and you're good to go!
I usually do an oil and filter change every 7000km and a bigger service (fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter) every 15-20k km. I can get all these parts for under $50 through a friend.
These are all very basic tasks and can be completed in a couple hrs if you know what you're doing. Changing the oil is as simple as draining the old oil from the sump, unscrewing the oil filter and replacing it with new and finally topping up the engine with fresh oil.
Im sure there will be a video or written guide somewhere to suit your cars engine.
Thanks guys. I guess you guys have motivated me to try and service my car. Especially when my last service costed me $600. what a rip off? All he did was oil change and other shit and charged me three hours of labour. I service my car evrty six months. So a year costed me about $900+
No surprise you got ripped off. Another reason why it's always cheaper to do it yourself (if you know what do) and it's enjoyable too. What car do you own btw?
@TheOneWhoKnocks:Hyundai ELANTRA 2013
I have been debating aboit getting a new car but sont want to put myself ijto a huge debt. This car just needs tyre change and is at 63000k.I drive 40 kms a day. There has been a tappity sound with acceleration in the mornings which settles as the car heats up, reason wgich made me thinking of a new car. The mechanic said everything is fine.
Your car is three years old, you don't need a new one :) Yours will have years of life left. If your car is making a ticking sound when it's cold it probably means you've got the wrong thickness oil in your car (the winter weight is wrong).
@webbiegareth: I started happening three months ago. And has never happened before. Why would it happen all of a sudden. Same guy has serviced my car?
I'd take it another mechanic while it's under warranty. If you have engine issues and serviced it yourself, you may have problems getting it fixed under warranty.
Ask around for a reliable mechanic that charges a fair price.
Would you sometimes use a removed forskin to seal the sump plug properly?
I find it does a much better job than using a new sump plug washer.
I bring this oil to servicing so they don't charge me $60 for exactly the same oil!
Hope they dont overfill like many ppl do :(
Waiting for some sort of deal for 0w-20
It's strangely refreshing to see someone who actually knows what they're doing and doesn't yammer on with their stupid annoying voice.
The video gave the basics but a couple of extra tips on top:
- Wear disposable gloves as oil isn't good for your skin
- You might need to use a "breaker bar" to loosen the sump bolt as sometimes they are on VERY tight
- Always fill (or half fill) the new oil filter before you put it on. This helps prevent a dry start when you start the engine after changing the filter.
Pre-filling? You drive a truck right?
Ha… this topic can be a Playstation vs Xbox type debate on car forums. I always pre-fill when I service mine, but I guess it depends if the filter is horizontal or vertical because it can get very messy. Decent oil filters have bypass and anti drain back valves but I reckon it's always safer to have some oil in the filter to get it flowing quicker on that very first startup after the oil change.
I don't think it was intended to be the be all and end all of oil change videos. chrisfix (hate his voice) and etcg (drones on) do more comprehensive ones for newbies, I was just commenting on it being a pleasant video.
My golf gti use this as fuel. Thanks !
MkIV or earlier I hope.
Yeh its a MkV.
Definitely wrong oil for a MkV GTI. May be ok for MkIV (Mk4) or earlier.
The weight is fine but this oil is only a semi-synthetic, not full.
Isn't fuel currently around $1.20 a litre?
No worries!
Works in 2strokes too. Using it in lawnmower
I had a look in my manual and at W10 the oil works at -17C while W5 is something like -30C. So this will be fine in QLD, maybe not so good down south in winter however.
This site was helpful at explaining all things oil.
http://www.driverstechnology.co.uk/oils.htm
What's written on your oil bottle, and what does it mean?
This post may seem like going back to basics but I'm constantly surprised by the number of people who do not know, or understand, what is written on a bottle of oil, and therefore have no idea what they are buying/using.
To be blunt about the subject, if a bottle of oil does not contain the following basic information then DO NOT buy it! Look for something that does!
1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc)
2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w40, 5w30 etc for Motor oils and 80w90, 75w90, etc for Gear oils)
3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and ACEA ratings)
4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.3, VW503.00, BMW LL01 etc)
Ignore the marketing blurb on the label - in many cases it's meaningless and I'll explain later what statements you should treat with some scepticism.
So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?
THE BASICS
All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It's important to know what the oil's intended purpose is.
VISCOSITY
Most oils on the shelves today are "Multigrades", which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)
Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.
In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance.
The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100°C etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.
SPECIFICATIONS
Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of the oil and whether they have met or passed the latest tests, or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date. There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d'Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these, and an understanding of what they mean is important.
API
This is the more basic as it is split (for passenger cars) into two catagories. S = Petrol and C = Diesel, most oils carry both petrol (S) and diesel (C) specifications.
The following table shows how up to date the specifications the oil are:
PETROL
SG - Introduced 1989 - has much more active dispersant to combat black sludge.
SH - Introduced 1993 - has same engine tests as SG, but includes phosphorus limit 0.12%, together with control of foam, volatility and shear stability.
SJ - Introduced 1996 - has the same engine tests as SG/SH, but phosphorus limit 0.10% together with variation on volatility limits
SL - Introduced 2001 - all new engine tests reflective of modern engine designs meeting current emissions standards
SM - Introduced November 2004 - improved oxidation resistance, deposit protection and wear protection, also better low temperature performance over the life of the oil compared to previous categories.
Note:
All specifications prior to SL are now obsolete and, although suitable for some older vehicles, are more than 10 years old, and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date SL and SM specifications.
DIESEL
CD - Introduced 1955 - international standard for turbo diesel engine oils for many years, uses single cylinder test engine only
CE - Introduced 1984 - improved control of oil consumption, oil thickening, piston deposits and wear, uses additional multi cylinder test engines
CF4 - Introduced 1990 - further improvements in control of oil consumption and piston deposits, uses low emission test engine
CF - Introduced 1994 - modernised version of CD, reverts to single cylinder low emission test engine. Intended for certain indirect injection engines
CF2 - Introduced 1994 - defines effective control of cylinder deposits and ring face scuffing, intended for 2 stroke diesel engines
CG4 - Introduced 1994 - development of CF4 giving improved control of piston deposits, wear, oxidation stability and soot entrainment. Uses low sulphur diesel fuel in engine tests
CH4 - Introduced 1998 - development of CG4, giving further improvements in control of soot related wear and piston deposits, uses more comprehensive engine test program to include low and high sulphur fuels
CI4 Introduced 2002 - developed to meet 2004 emission standards, may be used where EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) systems are fitted and with fuel containing up to 0.5 % sulphur. May be used where API CD, CE, CF4, CG4 and CH4 oils are specified.
Note:
All specifications prior to CH4 are now obsolete and, although suitable for some older vehicles, are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date CH4 & CI4 specifications.
If you want a better more up to date oil specification then look for SL, SM, CH4, CI4
ACEA
This is the European equivalent of API (US) and is more specific in what the performance of the oil actually is. A = Petrol, B = Diesel and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur).
Unlike API the ACEA specs are split into performance/application catagories as follows:
A1 Fuel economy petrol
A2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
A3 High performance and/or extended drain
A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines
A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performanceB1 Fuel economy diesel
B2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
B3 High performance and/or extended drain
B4 For direct injection car diesel engines
B5 Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performanceC1-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 low SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
C2-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
C3-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible, higher performance levels due to higher HTHS.Note: SAPS = Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.
Put simply, A3/B3, A5/B5 and C3 oils are the better quality, stay in grade performance oils.
APPROVALS
Many oils mention various OEM's on the bottle, the most common in the UK being VW, MB or BMW but do not be misled into thinking that you are buying a top oil because of this.
Oil Companies send their oils to OEM's for approval however some older specs are easily achieved and can be done so with the cheapest of mineral oils. Newer specifications are always more up to date and better quality/performance than the older ones.
Some of the older OEM specifications are listed here and depending on the performance level of your car are best ignored if you are looking for a quality high performance oil:
VW - 500.00, 501.00 and 505.00
Later specs like 503, 504, 506 and 507 are better performing more up to date oils
MB - 229.1
Later specs like 229.3 and 229.5 are better performing more up to date oils.
BMW - LL98
Later specs like LL01 and LL04 are better performing more up to date oils.
FINALLY
Above is the most accurate guidance I can give without going into too much depth however there is one final piece of advice regarding the labelling.
Certain statements are made that are meaningless and just marketing blurb, here are a few to avoid!
Recommended for use where…..
May be used where the following specifications apply…..
Approved by………..(but with no qualification)
Recommended/Approved by (some famous person, these endorsements are paid for)
Racing/Track formula (but with no supporting evidence)
Also be wary of statements like "synthetic blend" if you are looking for a fully synthetic oil as this will merely be a semi-synthetic.Like everything in life, you get what you pay for and the cheaper the oil the cheaper the ingredients and lower the performance levels.
- By Simon from the Porsche 968 website.
Changing your oil and your oil filter are necessary to keep your car's engine running well.
Thank you, very informative and good to know. Ozbargain is now ozlube for me.
While we are discussing rules of thumb, use the lightest "hot" grade your engine will tolerate. I mean if your engine calls for xW30 then do so; going to xW40 or 50 will only increase fuel consumption. Of course if your engine emits blue smoke then by all means use those higher grades.
Another point to consider for european cars is that Europe has relatively high concerns about oil volatility so manufacturers often specify a higher viscosity to reduce emissions. So just because your, let's say BMW, specifies a 5W50, it does not mean a 5W30 will harm your engine. BMW has recommended the higher viscosity to reduce the vapours from hot oil.
Is there an easy way to find out safely your lightest "hot" grade?
In general, most engines will want/need a 30. In recent years some manufacturers have specified a 20, namely 0W20. As your engine wears it may require a higher viscosity to reduce oil consumption.
If you've been using one of the higher viscosity grades it would be easy to try moving down a step to see what happens. Easy to go back too.
Thanks - got some of these for my old Van and will also suit my girlfriend's car for a while - not exact specifications but should be fine for a few thousand kms
…so cheap. pity i use the 5w-40