Bought Nissan X-Trail from Private Seller with Pre-Purchase Inspection and RWC - Engine Burning Oil

Hey altogether, I hope you can help me a bit!

Very short story: I bought a car from a private seller after a Pre-Purchase-Inspection. After 1000kms it used two liters of oil and a mechanic tells me it needs a new engine.

A bit more detailed:
At the 9th of April I bought a used Nissan X-Trail 2003 (with 280.000 km) in Victoria with a RWC from beginning of April.
Because I don't know much about cars I got a basic (no computer) Pre-Purchase Inspection done by ACE Mobile Mechanics.
Except for little things the car passed, I bought it for $3250, transferred the Rego and extended it ($600).
Went to a mechanic to top up the oil (because it was at low) and minor adjustments.
Now, three weeks later after driving the engine it sounded weird, I went to a mechanic and he basically told me that it needs an engine rebuild for $7500 ($5000 engine + $2500 labour).
It's burning oil (2l/1000km) because of probably loose butterfly screws which broke the rings on the pistons, causing oil to bypass it - resulting in probably a blown head gasket later on (loose butterfly screws seem to be typical for some X-Trails). Those mechanics told me as well that unless someone would've done a compression / leak-down-test beforehand, no mechanic could've told because otherwise the engine looks fine from the outside.

Do you see any chance of me getting out of the situation without losing the money spent on the car + rego + repairs?
Or is it just bad luck / unknowing / stupidness and next time I have to get a compression test extra to a regular Pre-Purchase-Inspection?

Thank you very much guys!

Comments

  • +78

    2003 car
    280,000kms
    $3250

    Yeah, could've predicted an engine recon if it hadn't had 1 already!

    • +25

      Seriously OP, what were you expecting?

    • +6

      oh boy, best not to be in this situation unless you know how to do all the work on your car.. Best to get a low km 2nd hand engine from wreckers and maybe pickup the workshop manual to start learning things :P If its a 4WD X-trial you might be in for more future expensive repairs (front & rear transfer cases) compared to a 2WD one.

      At first picking up a cheap car seems like a good idea, but it can bite you in the ass for future maintenance costs unless you know how to work on it.

    • +1

      I bought a Falcon with 330,000km for $1000 and haven't had to buy a new engine?

    • Exactly.

      At ~20,000kms a year it would need to be having at a bare minimum, on the dot 6 monthly/10,000km services which i seriously doubt occurred.

  • +13

    yeah, nah.. take it as an expensive learning lesson

  • +18

    Nissan X-Trail 2003 (with 280.000 km)
    I bought it for $3250,

    What made you decide to purchase something so old and expensive.

    • +13

      old yes but expensive no. I think thats the fair price for that car at that age.

    • The price actually seemed pretty much fine - most X-Trails with the same age are sold for $4000-5000.
      Why? To be honest backpacker - so after me using it and going off-road it would've lost way too much value if I would've bought a younger / less mileage car.
      Seems to go fine for most backpacking people except for minor (x < $1k) repairs…

      • +10

        most X-Trails with the same age are sold for $4000-5000.

        Most don’t need a $7k engine rebuild.

        • +4

          most prefer to sell $5000 to unsuspecting buyer

        • Most cars don't require a $7k rebuild an engine, as it's just ridiculously overpriced.

      • -2

        You can’t take an X trail off-road buddy. It’s an SUV not a 4wd.

        • +4

          actually you can take them off-road - only not for serious off roading

        • +6

          @Norman318: yeah, ok literally you can take them off a road. Onto a lawn, and they probably won’t get stuck. But you can’t take them on a 4wd track because they aren’t 4wds, which is what is colloquially known as off road. They are a front wheel drive biased softroader, with no diff lock and no low range. They cannot go off road. The only time you’ll see them even attempt to go off road is in material produced by the Nissan marketing department.

        • +4

          @Norman318: count the number of Xtrails sitting on the beach off Fraser one morning! Lol

        • +7

          I've take a x trail to the weribee 4x4 proving ground, trust me, they do alright. In the dry you can do a (profanity) with them. In the wet, you just need better tyres. The same day I also drove a y61 and y62 so don't think I am biased. BTW they do have a centre diff lock.

          To the OP, 300 k km is a lot, just buy a qr25 from the wreckers and chuck it in, shouldnt be more than 2 k fitted.

        • +5

          @ZzRice007:

          They cannot go off road.

          Those crazy Russian (no offense intended). How dare they take a softroader off-road.
          https://youtu.be/Up9kbyM1nwA
          https://youtu.be/SyI8IwpUgNQ

        • +2

          @Burnertoasty:

          Evidence posted on YouTube contradicts your opinion that x-trail can’t be used for off-roading.

          https://youtu.be/Up9kbyM1nwA
          https://youtu.be/SyI8IwpUgNQ

        • +1

          @Burnertoasty:

          They cannot go off road.

          Those crazy Russian (no offense intended). How dare they take a softroader off-road.
          https://youtu.be/Up9kbyM1nwA
          https://youtu.be/SyI8IwpUgNQ

        • -4

          @whooah1979: Come on man, that’s a video of a car going back and forth through one shallow muddy puddle and a little bit of trail driving. That car is being pushed to its limits and most drivers couldn’t accomplish that in a softroader.

        • +3

          @Burnertoasty:

          https://youtu.be/SyI8IwpUgNQ

          That car is being pushed to its limits and most drivers couldn’t accomplish that in a softroader.

          Are you now changing your opinion to the x-trail may be used for off-roading, but only when operated by a competent driver?

        • @whooah1979: No, it’s clearly not a real 4wd.

        • +7

          @Burnertoasty:

          Lol.. Mate, I'm saying I've driven one offroad in a purpose built 4x4 facility, benchmarked against the best 4x4s you can buy new. You just seem to be super fixated on your views, so good luck to you.

        • +3

          @whooah1979:
          +100 to this.

          I had a beaut 3 year old patrol on a 4wd farm in qld. I was so full of sh*t about what could be done and knew it all.

          Old bloke in a Suzuki jimny drives up. this thing is three different colours, has odd wheels, is battered, sun damaged and sound terrible. He completed every track with near ease, even the ones the best rigs could not manage.

          He taught me the best lesson I ever received about 4wding.

        • +1

          @Happy501:

          Jimny is a 4x4 though, unlike the AWD Xtrail

        • @Spackbace:

          Awd suv may do more than most drivers think.
          https://youtu.be/DslXqIfWigs

          Waiting for someone to comment saying that is a trail not real 4wd or off-roading and that the operator was an experienced driver.

        • +3

          @Spackbace:

          Of course your right but my point is good skill can do so much more, as seen by the AWD doing a good job in the Russian mud.

          I saw a hyandai excel while prospecting once in a remote spot which was certainly a 4wd only track by Australian definitions. The driver simply bounced out of all the holes and had great wheel placement, he said he got stuck a few times and his adult son got out and just pushed the beast out.

        • +2

          You can’t take an X trail off-road buddy. It’s an SUV not a 4wd.

          OP is backpacking. I bet OP is starting from Sydney. OP wouldn't even hit a fire trail.

          Even if OP makes it out of greater outer great dividing range Sydney, our parents did fine with their RWD Falcon's and Commodores when half the country's roads were gravel and the other half dirt. Our grandparents traveled the country when our roads were just mud.

          And that's forgetting that most purpose built, tough 4x4's rely on traction control, not low range and diff lockers that you insist are needed. You don't need diff lockers or low range unless your ascending/descending something stupid.

          I've driven FWD's though mud, on soft sand tracks, up wet 30% grass hills, though snow, over black ice, forded, etc., because my parents did so and my grand parents did so.

          Again, OP said off road, which for most people means a country dirt road, not bolder climbing and creek crawling.

          But you can’t take them on a 4wd track because they aren’t 4wds

          I have only ever found one place where that is true, which is sand dunes. Even then, the wife was driving and she didn't deflate her tyres, so I blame her, not FWD.

          They do not have a diff lock. They have a software program which tries to simulate 50/50 front rear lock, they cannot go off road

          Every 4x4 on the market uses traction control for 4x4'ing. None have a front diff lock. Half don't have a rear diff lock. They are not needed unless you are doing something stupid.

        • +1

          @Burnertoasty: I used to take an 05 stock Impreza down fire trails and 4x4 tracks on the south nsw coast every weekend with my mates and their Patrols/Cruisers/Hilux’s with 33s’. The car would always make it through one way or another under its own power. If it wasn’t going to be possible to pass a certain obstacle I’d just tip toe around it or make a new path through the lighter scrub. The hardest obstacle was generally the enormous speed bumps blocking the trails that stop ordinary unraised cars from passing, but a bit of speed, the correct angle and 0% care factor for your bodywork and even that was fine. I even drove it through a water crossing so deep that the water was higher than my side windows, it stopped shortly after thanks to an engine/intake full of water but after drying it out and changing the oil we were going again within an hour. The only time I ever actually got stuck was when I was doing donuts in a mud pit just for laughs, we knew full well it would get stuck as 2 of the other massively modified 4bs got stuck before it but when in Vegas… It was always hilarious seeing the jaw on the floor faces of people as it appeared in places people assumed impossible to reach in a car like that. I miss that car. It did roughly 240,000ks of that treatment with only me and my average skills of servicing/fixing it until it ate a Roo :(. I’m sure you could get an XTrail to crazy places

        • @This Guy:
          Thank you! And btw, starting in Melbourne because there've been more cars available. Maybe I won't even need the off-road / All-wheel-drive as only gravel road - maybe I do. I can tell you in half a year :)

    • +3

      Holy shit - if so, I might actually be able to sell my 2003 Mitsubishi Verada Ei with 120k on the clock!

  • +57

    get an engine from the scrapyard rather than rebuilding the current one.

    • ^ +1 to this.

  • +16

    Surely there'd be smoke if its burning oil?

    • +3

      Yes, 2L/100 of oil is a lot of smoke. If it's not blowing a huge amount of smoke then the oil is going somewhere else. I wonder if the OP has checked the coolant.

      • yes this 100%

      • The coolant seems unchanged since 2000km, except for temperatures 5 degrees and less (and then only shortly after engine start) I don't see anything like in the videos. In fact driving I don't see any smoke at all. But certainly there are no oil leaks in the engine area and not underneath either.
        The only time it smells bad is when I mistakenly rev up the engine for a short time (starting up hill e.g.).

  • +4

    Just bad luck, no one could have predicted the broken nut. Buy a 2nd hand engine or scrap the car and buy another one. No matter what, its going to cost to this sorted.

  • +5

    yeh nah ay

  • +1

    Better sell it and buy a better one?

    • +3

      yeah i guess your misery can be someone else's. Depends on OP moral.

  • +7

    are you using the correct specs for the engine oil?
    can you get a 2nd mechanic opinion? your current mechanic could be bluffing, getting unnecessary engine rebuild.

    • The mechanic knew that I wouldn't get it done with him - I'll get a second opinion I guess.
      Engine oil is one of the two of the manuals (20W40), thanks!

      • If the engine is rooted you have little to lose.
        Try some thicker oil and see if that reduces burn, or by some gulf western and keep it in the boot.
        2L / 1000km is only like $5, compared to probably $130 fuel or the cost of a rebuild, peanuts!

  • +3

    Is this something that the inspection should reasonably have detected?
    If so, you might have a claim against the mechanic.
    However, is it worth it for a $3250 car?

    • its not something an inspection would have detected.

      • -2

        It is if its piss-bleeding oil, coughing chimney smoke, and tar black underneath the engine bay.

        But if its not, then it means the symptoms are new.
        Which probably means the seller had no problems with the engine/burning oil.
        So either the OP's driving caused/exacerbated the issue… or it was an oncoming issue and it was 100% coincidental that it happened in the small window of the sale. It's entirely possible if the seller couldn't sell in the next 3 months, they would be the ones stuck solving the issue of a new transplant/rebuild.

        Analogy: A family that is very superstitious goes on a day trip with a boat out to the ocean. It's the first time they went into the water. They drink, smoke, eat, fish, swim, etc etc have a good time with the driver and friends. One of their kids gets eaten by a Great White Shark. They blame everyone on-board for the events. Yet, shark attacks are very rare and deaths by GWS are a niche in a niche. And the driver has been to that spot a thousand times without any spottings. Is it really logical the father blame the driver?

  • +4

    This isn't something that they would detect. Burning oil is generally a given with that many kms..

  • +5

    Did the inspection include a compression test etc? It's generally an option otherwise they clearly state that it's not included.

    If so, claim against them. They have insurance for this.

    2l of use is not normal, even for a car with 300,000kms if it's in good Nick.

    • Yeah racv inspections are guaranteed, they will come to the party if it craps out and they said it was ok.

  • +1

    I don't get what you're looking to "get of" tbh. If you think you can get your money back, good luck - it was a private sale. It's just really unlucky.

  • +4

    the only cheap way out of this is to buy a wrecked Nissan X-Trail 2003 with an OK engine and transplant.

  • -5

    Flog it off to the next mug

  • +8

    According to their site, ACE offer compression testing as an extra, along with computer scanning.
    I'd have said that most of their standard visual inspection is something that could be done by anyone who has any automotive knowledge.
    Those extras are probably the most important ones as they will show any error codes (that haven't been cleared), and the condition of the bore/rings/pistons/gaskets that are not visible from outside the motor.
    A compression test- I wouldn't bother personally for a car at 100,000 km. but almost essential at 250,000

    • +1

      Well, know I know then. Thanks!

    • +4

      Computer scan? Isn't that just plugging in an OBDII cable and reading the codes? That sounds like a pretty good earner for someone.

  • +2

    Where are you parking it? Leave it somewhere overnight and see if any oil marks are left under the car in the morning. Or have a poke around. Should be able to notice oil if it is leaking out if parts or cables. Could also be that you bought the wrong oil? Maybe try some thing thicker? If you have a head gasket issue, you notice several other problems. Should be hard to drive the car. Doubtful of most mechanics, especially when you have an older car and seem to be a foreigner as well. Engine swap should be about 2k less than rebuilding an old engine.

    • Thanks - definitely no oil leaking from underneath or elsewhere, all clean.
      After the mechanics took a look they put in thicker oil and an additive - still 2l/1000km…

      • +1

        The oil cooler assembly leaks on xtrails and straight onto exhaust. might not get much oil on the ground cos it burns up on exhaust. I have this issue with mine at the moment. check iy out its the bit that the oil filter attaches to.

        • Have to find out where exactly to look, I'll do that, thanks!
          As I was idling the other day there were really little splatters of a black liquid "jumping" / getting blown out (proably oil).

  • +2

    Today's lesson: the older the car, the more important it is to check the long term health of the engine with a proper inspection. Checking for smoke, oil leaks, and compression testing would all be important things to check beyond 180,000km. Checking the service history would have probably revealed a clue that something was wrong. You should also ask for the mechanics' report from the last service. If a car is sold as 'due for a service' don't touch it - it was probably inspected by a mechanic and they just decided to flog it rather than pay to repair it.

  • +8

    I hope your insured vehicle doesn't get stolen from the street! ;)

    • +2

      Or crashed into by a bad driver.

    • who's gonna buy comp insurance on a $3k car

      • You can get fire and theft without comprehensive. Who's gonna commit insurance fraud for a couple thousand dollars though? Plus filing a false police report.

  • +1

    check for oil leak, use 20w-50 or even 20w-60, sell the car.

  • +15

    2l oil for every 1k? Just keep on topping up! Cheaper than rebuild replace or whatever else. Buy some thick ass oil

    • 25w-60

      • +2

        90w gearbox oil! Perhaps scoop in a tub of bearing grease. LOL.

  • +7

    Lesson learnt the hard way, Xtrail… More fool you… buy a Toyota!

    That thing would smell like an old Diesel truck when running with that amount of blow by & by the sounds of it, there should be plenty of oil in the air intake/box etc not to mention the exhaust!

    Compression test will tell you jack sh!te, & is of little benefit unless it's missing or down on compression on one/two cylinder/s only. It would be reasonable to expect it to be down on compression with high kms, what you 'needed' was a leakdown test, now you'need'to take out the key, & put another car under it!

    One of my Camry's didn't use that much oil & it'd done over 750,000kms!

    Seriously, your cheapest option would be to buy a written off vehicle with low KM'S & swap engines with a heap of your backpacker mates(offer free alcohol & BBQ).

    Or… The next best option would be to get a wreckers to supply & r&r an engine (this way you're not liable for the cost of an additional r&r if the engine is no good!they should also give you 3 months warranty.

    • I am with you

      OP, I would go to the wreckers & get them to put in a motor which will have some warranty on it

      always do a leakage test with the piston & TDC

      a car that burns blue smoke is oil burning & a car that burns black is fuel

      or leave your insured car somewhere to get stolen

        • I was a mechanic in the 70's, so I already know how to do it. everyone else could learn from it thou

          edit. my post above should be 'piston at TDC'

        • Gee I hope ETCG has since learned how to use a leak down tester since he made that video, because he clearly has NFI what he's doing!

  • +2

    Unfortunately there's little or nothing you can do.

    It's a 15 year old vehicle after all, basically a paddock bomb.

    There's a few oil additives on the market that claim to reduce oil burning, maybe try them.

    Best bet is to buy a second hand motor from the wreckers and get them to fit it and put it down as an expensive life lesson.

  • +2

    Have a look on Gumtree or eBay.
    I found this on Gumtree quick enough.There would have to be similar in VIC.
    Otherwise, spend a few dollars on oil and take a drive.

  • If I just keep on driving for thousands of kilometers and filling up the oil something else is probably going to happen anytime soon (head gasket or so)?

    • +1

      You havent got much to lose at this point. Maybe, but maybe not. Keeping the engine temp acceptable by keeping the oil and coolant level safe is the best way to prevent the headgasket from getting worse.

      • Thanks!

  • +3

    My engine oil was leaking into the radiator(the collant colour would change), will loose about 1/2 the engine oil in 2 months or so…. it is 2009 lancer. My mechanic asked me to change the head gasket, would have cost me about $2000, then I went to auto store and the guy suggested me to test this stop leak thingy and said it is still new and not many shops had it. So he ordered one for me, costing me about $45, I thought I would give this a go.. it worked like a magic, my car is still running. I will ask him about your situation, lets see what he thinks.. may be today or tomorrow if you are interested…. let me know.

  • -3

    My engine oil was leaking into the radiator(the collant colour would change), will loose about 1/2 the engine oil in 2 months or so…. it is 2009 lancer. My mechanic asked me to change the head gasket, would have cost me about $2000, then I went to auto store and the guy suggested me to test this stop leak thingy and said it is still new and not many shops had it. So he ordered one for me, costing me about $45, I thought I would give this a go.. it worked like a magic, my car is still running. I will ask him about your situation, lets see what he thinks.. may be today or tomorrow if you are interested…. let me know.

    • I think it's a common thing with the Nissan X-Trail (as I know now) where the rings on the pistons etc are almost gone and even additives can maybe only slow it down for a bit (until the engine gets real hot and even that gets really liquid).
      But I appreciate any help, if it's not a big hassle obviously I'd really appreciate your help!

  • +2

    Sell it

  • -1

    Insure it and set fire to it…

    • Rofl, what’s the odds I thought that toob

  • +1

    Are you sure you've done your headgasket? these days there are great products that will seal the lifted gasket up, I've used them in the past, drove the car for 2 years before junking it.
    Also, as others have mentioned, use thicker oil like 20-60 and see how you go.
    If you really want to replace the engine, ring a few Nissan wreckers and get the price for an engine swapped into your vehicle.

  • you would think a pre-purchase inspection from a mechanic would include a compression test

  • +1

    Get a 2nd hand engine, I’ll pop it in 2 days for a carton

    • Do you accept eneloop or sd card?

  • +1

    Sell it to the next sucker. A car the old/cheap is not worth fixing

    • +5

      Nice to see your morals are in check.

  • +5

    Similar thing happened to me. About 5 years ago bought a 2003 VY Commodore V6 with 208k. Ran well and everything worked. Went to my mechanic shortly after for a basic service and called me with some bad news. Bottom end bearing was bust requiring replacement engine. Just bad luck.

    I went through all the figures and for the type of car, km and age a rebuild is definitely not worth it. Found a decent wrecker with a replacement motor with 110k on it for $550 and had it installed with new gaskets and rubbers for a $1000. Engine came with 3 month warranty.

    The car ran without missing a beat for the next 4 years and putting 80k ok the motor.

    • Okay, thanks! How would you look for a decent wrecker / engine?
      I tried Gumtree / ebay - there's a view offers ($1250-1850 engine unfitted) but most of the wreckers do have a bad reputation at google review and / or ebay.

  • +1

    Easy fix. Use thicker oil.

  • +1

    I was begind an xtrail on royal pde yesterday and needed gas masks!! Had to quickly flick to recurculate. Was that you??

    Too many shit boxes in Vic. They seriously need a pink slip to get these scummy dangerous vehicles off the roads. Although this wouldn't have worked in your case.

    • Haha, not me - I actually don't see any smoke at all (not like in the videos online with the white smoke)

  • Some places in Sydney will sell you a low mileage engine for $1200-1500 fitted… drop off in the morning and pickup in the afternoon… it is a bit risky though….

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