AMAs seem to be the cool thing to do lately, so thought I'd give it a try. Have been a mechanic for 15 odd years, worked on everything from Hyundai to Porsche. Recently moved to marine in the last year or so. Will try to answer when I can.
Edit - Wow this was much more popular than anticipated, thanks for the great response everyone, hopefully it's helped a few people out.
Gday mate
Whats your opinion on a 60 series Landcruiser? (specifically a 2H diesel 5 Spd Manual) Thinking of buying one they look awesome.
Pretty tough but can be rusty. Around the roof seems to be particularly bad for some reason. A similar thing would be gq patrol, which would be my pick as it has coil rather than leaf springs. Both the 2h and TD42 are very good engines, from the days when things really lasted.
Hello Brendan,
I have a problem with Toyota Aurion 2013 transmission. The car is not picking up speed/hesitating to accelerate from 20 to around 80, revving at high RPM. However at the traffic lights or before going, If i shift the gears between D to N and P for about ten times. The problem goes away. Also when I do reverse parking I can hear noise coming from the transmission. Do you know, what could be the problem? Thanks.
Could be as simple as a blocked filter, as it sounds like it has low line pressure, has it been serviced? The more it is driven in that states the more damage is being done.
i have similar issue since last service done around 5,000 kms. do you mean air filter or oil filter needs to be checked? TIA
The oil filter in the auto transmission. You have high rpm but no acceleration?
anything ?
Is Ryco Syntec high performance oil filter really any better than a standard Ryco oil filter?
Ryco claims Syntec allows up to 15,000km service interval using synthetic oil.
The Syntec filter costs about $15 more.
What are your thoughts?
TL:DW: If the price difference is negligible then go for the Syntec. If it's $15 more then it depends on how deep your pockets are.
We get ripped off big time in Australia when it comes to the cost of oil filters. I generally buy mine in bulk from somewhere overseas like Rock Auto when I order other parts and the cost per filter is normally between $5 and $10 for a reputable brand like Wix.
I think for $15 (at most) it’s worth it.
Sometimes on sale it’s about $5 difference
Never used them to be honest, seems silly. There are cars with longer intervals than 15k that don't use normal filters, so not sure what the go is with them. I would expect someone on the internet would have cut one up at some point. It probably just has more pleating.
According to the video I posted, in the example filter it actually had less! It's just a synthetic filtering medium instead of a paper one.
Well there you go, perhaps a finer medium as well?
@brendanm: Hard to tell. Ryco don't seem to publish the micron values for their standard filters. The ST filters claim 99.8% efficiency @ 25 micron.
By contrast the Fram filters I pay about $5 each for claim 95.7% efficiency at 20 micron. I'd say that the ST filters would probably come in at a similar figure if they were tested at 20 micron.
At the end of the day, I'd say that virtually no people arguing about oil filters on the internet have actually checked whether the manufacturer claims stack up.
My view is that you should use whatever works for you at a price point you can afford. I have a hard time believing that there's an appreciable difference between most filters that are on the market today, especially in a 25 year old vehicle like mine.
Great AMA brendanm, very informative, thanks.
My CRV, 2014 4WD, has a grinding noise during the first 5-10 minutes of drive when the engine is cold. No noise while idling. I have asked the Honda service but couldn't demonstrate as the engine was always warm when I get to the service. The grinding noise is quite obvious if the car is slowly going uphill. It has been serviced as per logbook so far. Much appreciate your response, thanks.
Is the noise there if you increase the rpm in park or neutral?
No noise in neutral or park with rpm increase. Noise only while moving especially slow speed < 60kmph. Goes away after 10-15min when engine is warm.
I had a similar sounding intermittent grinding noise on my 2001 Mazda Tribute. No mechanic was able to diagnose it. After I started poking around a bit more myself I noticed that one of the oil filled hydraulic engine mounts had some torn rubber and was leaking. Replaced with a new one and it fixed the problem immediately.
Basically the grinding noise was being caused by the engine moving slightly in the bay and the metal on the inside of the mount and bolt vibrating against where it connected to the chassis. Only used to do it on acceleration until it reached top gear and was worse going up and down hills. For the longest time I thought the transmission might have been on the way out but I was happy that it turned out to be something simple.
This may or may not be your issue but the mounts could be worth checking out.
Sounds like it's more wheel bearing or brake related. Depends what your idea of "grinding" is, as what nomadesque describes is possible as well. Easiest way to sort these things out, and what I used to get people to do, is drop the car off at the mechanic the night before, then they can see what it does cold. It's often immediately apparent, and then easily fixable.
@brendanm: Always the issue trying to explain noises via text over the internet. It's the same as trying to interpret the troubleshooting section of an FSM when they try to define what a "creak" "whoosh" "ping" etc. sounds like.
For the record, I find that transmission bearings tend to go "woong woong" when they're wearing out while wheel bearings make a sound like "brrrrrrrrrr". Hope that helps the diagnosis. ;)
@Pantagonist: The sound is metallic grinding noise, eg. sound of drilling into a metal frame. I am concerned if it is from transmission. Because it happens only when the car is moving and accelerating. No sound if I don't press accelerator. Will check it out at the service as brennan suggested.
@kool: Yep, well that fits what my issue was as well. Couldn't get it to make a sound while in idle or even in drive and accelerating with all four wheels off the ground.
The only time it ever did it at a standstill was when I was parked with the nose pointing up a 30 degree slope in the Blue Mountains, which prompted me to pop the bonnet and take a closer look. The slope was sufficient to put the collapsed mount under stress and make the horrible grinding noise.
When driving the grinding noise pattern I had came in pulses about a second long and a second apart as the motor rocked backwards and forwards during acceleration. Once it settled into position the noise went away. Sometimes it would go almost totally silent for a week and then something would cause it to pop out of its comfortable position and start grinding badly again.
Good luck with the diagnosis at your next service. Hopefully the mechanic doesn't just throw parts at the problem without getting to the bottom of the issue.
@brendanm: Thanks, yes they have asked to leave the car at the service, which is due in a month. I had the brake pads serviced but hasn't changed this noise.
I'm surprised no one asked about DPF filters. The work to change them expensive. 6 month ago I heard some rolling noise under the car. I assumed the DPF getting a lot of particles inside. I have started to drive the car on S (sport mode for the automatic gearbox) or manually switching it to keep the engine revs between 1500-2000rpm for every second trip. The noise has disappeared. I reckon the particles get burned? Is the s mode/ manual (revs 1500-2000) enough to keep DPF clean without driving the car on highways? Am I better to drive it on S mode all the time or less? My trips are 40 minutes - 1.5 hours each within the eastern suburbs, without going to a highway. Thanks.
Dpfs don't make noise, and the particles are miniscule. The noise is probably just an exhaust rattle, you can get little rocks stuck in the heat shielding sometimes. The dpf needs to be hot, so needs to be under load. No load rpm doesn't provide much heat in a diesel. That length of drive won't require any special driving for the dpf.
Hello brendanm,
What an amazing AMA!
BMW 118i 2006 (e87), just came from mechanic after a regular service. He tells me my car's radiator is leaking and needs to be replaced. Quoted me 535$ for which includes 300$ for Hella (hope I got it right) radiator, 35$ for coolant, 200$ for labour.
My questions:
How critical is it to replace the radiator ? Can I wait some time or do I need to as soon as possible?
How can I find out radiator is leaking, if I want to check for myself ?
Is the price I was quoted reasonable ? Should I check with other mechanics?
What your opinion about the car? I have had it for 3 years now so far only major cost repair was replacement of alternator and now this. I do enjoy driving this car. Should I keep it and expect to see more repair bills like this in future.
Thanks a lot :)
If it is leaking, it definately needs to be replaced. The mechanic should be able to show you where it is leaking from, and you could visually verify it, but at that age it is most likely it is leaking. Price seems very reasonable, though you may want to allow for a little more, he may find other plastic parts that need to be replaced when it is pulled apart.
I'm not a fan of the 118, it has probably the leakiest engine BMW ever made. At this age you will likely be seeing more repair bills like this, cam actuator and sensor seals, rocker covers leaking, vanos position sensor leaking. You may get lucky and it could be fine. Was the alternator replaced due to being affected by oil leaks?
Thanks for your reply.
I have been going to the same mechanic for 3 or more years. I trust them but I am worried that they might be changing wrong part because for the alternator issue they initially told me the battery is dead and later on found it was actually the alternator.
I mean if there is a leak, wouldn't it be somewhere else not in the radiator. Would replacing the radiator fix the leak, the part he quoted me was for radiator I believe. Yeah I think I will ask them to show me the leak. Also should I not see leak under my car where it's parked overnight?
Yeah that's what worries me. The car has done 112000 KMs (bought at 92500 KMs). I bought it 2nd hand at a comparably cheaper price so I was happy to pay a little extra for one or two major repairs. But if there is going to be more I think it's going to be better to let it go at this stage. Speaking of that, what could would you recommend with good driving experience and less major repair bills? Should I stay away from BMWs or Mercedes ?
Yes the alternator was also replaced due to oil leak. I think it was the gasket on top of the alternator which broke and damaged the alternator.
The radiator has plastic end tanks which leak, the cores themselves can also leak. Radiators leaking is definately not uncommon in those. It's probably only a small leak if you haven't noticed, and it will normally collect on the plastic undertray, and drain out when you drive.
What do you class as a good driving experience? Nice interior, or good handling, or? BMW and Mercedes will always have more repairs than a corolla, and the repairs will generally be more expensive.
@brendanm: Yeah it does collect on the plastic under tray. I actually haven’t had to refuel coolant for long time so yeah I think it’s small leak.
For me good driving is experience good handling which I find better in my BMW than some other Japanese car I drove. Also it feels more solid and connected to the roads especially in highway. Yeah I guess high repair bill is something I have to compromise if I want good driving experience.
Thanks a lot for your response. I really appreciate it. Wish you good luck in your new career :)
@Anonymous101: Definately get it replaced before it goes completely and you overheat the engine as that will be very expensive.
I know exactly what you mean, it's also why I like driving euro cars. Unfortunately if that's what you like, it costs a little more ;)
No worries mate, thanks!
Hi Brendanm. Great AMA - you are an asset to the community!
Interested to hear what your thoughts are on the Mercedes W163 ML series are - we have a ML500 that we cannot particularly fault besides the overly squealy brakes, which I believe is a common issue… have replaced the discs with no luck, interested to hear any suggestions? Thanks so much!
I'm guessing you have a later one? The early ones had a few niggling issue. Fronts or rears squeaking? Did you replace the pads as well? Did they lube the backs of the pads?
2001 model.. seems to be the front. Pads were replaced as well but not sure if the backs of pads were lubed - can chat to the mechanic next time and see if that resolves the issue. Thanks :)
No worries, often the pad lube will stop it. If they have used cheap or non chamfered pads, chamfering the leading and trailing edges can stop squealing as well.
Hi Brendanm,
You are really an asset in this forum. Can you advise how to reprogram a new key for 2016 Holden Captiva LTZ it has a pseudo key and not the start button hence unsure. Cheers
Vince
Hi Vince, sorry I have no idea on that one, and no longer have access to that info. Try an automotive locksmith, if they can't do it they should be able to put you into someone who can.
Just posting to say thanks for being a honest mechanic.
I have an honest guy too - I had an issue where both my tail lights were out, I checked the bulbs by putting them in other slots and they actually LIT UP which is friggen weird because everything else was fine (fuses were in tact).
Mechanic looks at it and changes the bulbs anyway and that fixes it.. pretty weird they lit up in the other slots but anyway he charged me $10 lol.. so yeah appreciate honest mechanics, thanks for your work.
They are out there! If he's good, recommend him to friends, people like that rely on that sort of referral, as they aren't making money from scamming people .
As what brendan has mentioned, would you be able to share contact details of this honest mechanic?
There are probably other ozBargainers who would be happy to use their service.
His name is Bruno, he operates out of Clayton, Victoria. (03) 9543 5999
He has a very thick accent so listen well :-)
Hi Brendanm,
Great AMA. Thanks for conducting this great and interesting topic.
I have 2007 Lexus IS 250 with 82K on the clock. I have been servicing it from the nearest Toyota dealer. Do you know that automatic transmission oil flush is being done as a part of service or is it sealed for life? I have been flushing oil in my other cars every 40K. but being Lexus I have not done it. Also the type of ATF fluid recommended for it please.
Thanks in advance
From memory the is250 will be a "lifetime" fluid. I would recommend changing it at 40k like you do with your other cars. Some of the fluid I have seen come out of "lifetime" transmissions at 100k or less was disgusting.
2 questions please…
Just bought a new car battery from Repco. Dont want to replace it straight away as the current one is still/sounds "working". Either the issue is with the starter or the battery. How long can I keep the new battery left at home? Assuming new battery from store has been charged and keeps remain as its not used (dis/recharged)?
My 12 old Honda accord car km is still low (80k). A friend told that by the time it reach >100k the car would require to get the transmision flushed regardless? Sounds correct?
Thanks in advance
+1 here, have pretty much the same query! The battery has lost a cell and haven't bought a battery yet.
Question: Is it ok to just leave a car in the garage without driving (it only gets driven once every 3 weeks between 15-45 mins)? What should I do maintenance wise - start it every so often, Check wheels?
PS Great AMA - Thanks! Had a great read.
If the battery is healthy your drive every 3 weeks should be fine, no need to start it, it will get charged when you drive. If you get really excited you could put a battery tender on it. Check tyre pressures as they leak air over time, otherwise just normal maintenance.
Yes the battery will be ok sitting for a while, hard to tell as they are extremely variable, if it is kept with a "battery tender/trickle charger" on it, will likely last a very long time sitting. It will self discharge slowly just sitting there.
Yes should definately change the transmission fluid. I would personally do it now and then every 40k or so. Its cheap insurance.
Thanks sir
The fluid inside is now leaked in the trunk (not that much) as the battery felt down during driving. My bad. Is it still usable :(
Is it the type with removable caps? How much fluid spilt? It is acid, so be careful with it.
My 12 old Honda accord car km is still low (80k). A friend told that by the time it reach >100k the car would require to get the transmision flushed regardless? Sounds correct?
The Accord transmission is a different design to other automatic transmissions.
You should dump the fluid every 50,000km and refill. This will only change 1/3 of the fluid but that will be fine. There's also a canister filter on top of the transmission that are about $15 on ebay for the genuine part.
If you've got to 100,000km without changing then do 1/3 this year, 1/3 at at next service, 1/3 at next service. Yes, the old fluid will mix with the new fluid but i found this the cheapest, cleanest, most efficient way of doing it as you just undo the drain plug and refill through the dipstick hole.
It's a Honda specific fluid. Penrite make it or from dealer. Your transmission will feel nicer afterwards.
When checking transmission fluid in a honda they are different to everthing else, and are generally done with the engine off rather than the with it running.
Thank you brendanm for this AMA.
Really got to learn lots of stuff.
My question is I've got a 2008 accord euro and it makes a knocking sound and shudders when accelerating and on high revs when I put 91 RON fuel. But The noise is a bit less when using 95 ron fuel and 98 ron fuel. What could be the issue?
Thanks again. :)
95 is minimum recommended. On 91 it will "ping" and the computer will retard ignition timing, definately do not put it under large load and high revs when using 91, it can be used in an emergency, but not all the time.
Point noted. :) Thank you again. And best of luck with the boats. :) :)
Thanks mate :)
My daughter has a 2005 Euro. She runs e10 94 ron and and puts pulp98 in it when it's really cheap. The thing runs really well (I drive it a lot and give it a caning).
Maybe she gets away with it because the spark plugs were changed in 2016 and the coil packs in 2017 (one failed and i did the lot with Ebay cheapies).
E10 is generally around the 95 mark depending on how it's been mixed.
The octane required it dictated by the compression ratio, head design, piston design etc.
What would you buy between current model BMW X3 (Mid Spec) and the Porsche Macan (Entry Spec)?
And whats the main reason for your choice? Thanks
Oh one more question, how would you rate the current gen Mitsubishi Outlander CVT gearbox?
Which engines?
Mitsubishi have been making a good CVT for years (can't believe I said "good" and "CVT" together), haven't seen any major issues with them, and they actually drive alright.
BMW X3 30D Petrol vs Macan Petrol Base Model (Not S Model)
Good to hear Mitsubishi have good CVT gears.
Thanks many for taking your time to answer my questions by the way:)
That's a hard one. Would probably go the BMW. Macan if the S.
No worries mate.
Hi Brendan,
Thanks for the AMA and answering my question. I've got another one if you don't mind.
Can you please recommend a place (or places) for performance parts for civic, 86, WRX etc?
What sort of performance parts? It varies greatly, there are places that sell cheap rubbish, or places that sell top notch gear. I used to use greenline for jap stuff many moons ago, not sure if they are still around. The easier way to do it, is find out what brand, and what part you want, then google for the best price.
Brendonm… mate, thank you for sharing your experience and expertise. You do realise this thread could hold its momentum for years?
I've got an MY13 Twin turbo TD1400 diesel Transporter T5. Last year I did an anti-clockwise trip around Oz leaving from Melb. Coming into Perth (42,000 km on the clock) the check engine light came on. I suspected the EGR and this was confirmed with a diagnostic readout at a Perth independent VW service centre. Surprising considering the 12,000 km of all-day driving I'd been doing (but, I am a very conservative driver).
The centre's service manager told me to give the motor a good thrashing once a week, redlining as I climb through the gears (in manual mode) to blow out the carbon build up. I've more or less been doing this for the last six months or 15,000 km with mixed success.
Now back in Melb, the light is on about 70% of the time (sometimes for a couple of weeks, sometimes for a few days before going off). I can't correlate thrashing the motor with the light being on or off, e.g. it will sometimes come on immediately after a redline thrashing.
Despite the check engine light being on most of the time, the motor has continued to run as sweetly as always, no power loss, same excellent fuel economy and has never gone into limp mode.
Given that it would cost maybe $2000 for a shop to clean or replace the EGR (I'd do it myself if it wasn't so hard to access), what are your thoughts on thrashing/redlining the motor (not to mention the DQ500 box) as an ongoing remedy? The thought of throwing a timing belt is very scary.
I'm considering installing an EGR delete kit and catch can, but can't find anything online re suitability for a diesel Transporter (there's plenty of recommendations for every other VW diesel car). Do you think the ProVent 200 catch can (recommended for the 2.0 litre diesel Amarok) would be suitable?
Any advice appreciated.
Going hard with it won't really do anything, though there is no issue with driving it hard, and the dsg and timing belt will be fine. I know on the late V6 tdis you can actually do an "EGR regen" with the scan tool, not sure if this is an option on the 4 cylinders.
Engine is the same as the amarok, ecu is the same as well. Anyone that can reflash them should be able to turn the EGR off for you. Yes provent is very good, it's what I run in my car.
Fantastic AMA, thank you.
I am in the market for a second hand medium SUV. I'm inclined towards the CX-5, how have you found the reliability and quality of these vehicles?
Many thanks
The Mazda's are generally very good, and seem to hold their value. Stop start is very annoying, but that's personal preference.
Yeah… Stop start would also have to wear out relevant parts a hell of a lot quicker than in a vehicle that doesn’t, surely.
Yeah more than likely. Good thing is it can be permanently disabled. Managed to do that on my Mazda3 after some research on the internet. (not the shove a piece of paper in the switch 'fix')
@brendanm: Lol yea, this is the best one as it doesn't even trigger the dashboard light.
The only potential problem might be if you try to do a firmware upgrade as the instructions say make sure everything is closed including bonnet before running the upgrade. Never tried to do one but it would be a 5min job to enable then disable again.
If you were changing the power steering high pressure hose in a car - would you also replace the o-rings in the return line?
My mechanic didn't do that and those older o-rings blew out in two weeks, with further leaking meaning I needed to return the car for their replacement. I suggested to him it was poor work.
Did he have to take the return line off? If he did, the O rings should have been changed, if he didn't, no it wouldn't be expected that they would be, unless it looked like they were weeping. Would also depend on the car, and how old it is, as to whether I would suggest it.
Hello again!
For a novice working on a car I always seem to have an issue figuring out which way to turn to loosen and which way to tighten. I am aware of righty tighty and lefty losey but depending on where the bolt is and where I am located I still get confused!
Is it a safe tip to just put my ratchet to anti clock and then try to undo the bolt? Unless it’s a reverse thread bolt shouldn’t this work all the time? I assume most cars don’t have reverse thread bolts!
Also with washers for instance the crush washer on a drain plug, should you always put it right back on the bolt and then tighten up? Or does it not matter if it comes a bit forward of the bolt and you then tighten it up?
Sorry basic questions I know!
Yes setting the ratchet to either tighten it loosen in your hand, and then putting it on the bolt is a good way to do it. In regard to the washer, it doesn't matter where it is, but I would recommend replacing the sump plug washer when you change the oil.
Gday Brendan
Thanks for doing this. This thread is a great read.
2006 RA Rodeo 3.0 TD
200+k
I’ll admit to being a little patchy on oil changes and am wondering if there is a way to both assuage my maintenance guilt and give the oil system a good freshen up/desludge, other than a few short interval oil changes. Probably 20k since last change.
Also, what’s the best way to tell if the battery is cactus? Still reading 12-13v but sometimes starter refuses. Get the clicking of solenoid but no turn. Battery charger on for two minutes and away she goes.
Thanks in advance. Andy
Naughty naughty!
You can run a small amount (under 500ml) of diesel or Kero in the oil at idle only for 5 minutes or so before draining the oil.
The best way is with a battery load tester, but if you put your multimeter on the battery when cranking it shouldn't drop far past 10v, if under 9 it's completely gone.
Thanks very much for that.
Does it shit you that some people literally never service their car and are surprised when it breaks down or do you love it, for the business?
How often do you recommend a regular service? I get mine done every 5000km/6 months. Whatever comes first
It does actually, because it's just blatant abuse. I had to put a new engine in an X-Trail at 60k km because they never, not even once, serviced it. Why would you even do that? Couple of hundred for each service and your car will last a long time, or thousands upon thousands and be without your car for a week.
10k, 12 monthly. What you do is fine as well.
Is the Holden Cruze still the worst car in Australia to purchase?
It's definately right up there!
I owned mind for at least 5 years and racked up close to about 250000km , ended up spending close to about $6,000 on repairs .. I now own a Kia Cerato :)
A good choice, both in getting rid of the Cruze and getting a cerato.
Hi, my Honda accord euro 2011, sometimes make a screeching noise when I start it in the mornings, my mechanic has tightened a belt can't remember the name of it (sorry not very mechanical minded) , but yet from time to time it still screeches which is mostly in the mornings, any ideas, maybe I should try a new mechanic
If it's the same noise as it was making before the mechanic adjusted it then it's probably the belt again.
If adjusting hasn't fixed it then replacing it probably will. Also need to check that there are no leaks of oil, fluid, coolant etc. that might be dripping on the belt, soaking it and causing it to slip.
I would recommend replacing the belt. Not sure how he could tighten it as it has an auto tensioner. The tensioner may also be getting weak, mechanic should be able to tell when replacing belt.
Probably a little too late at this stage as I've already purchased the vehicle but was wondering your opinion on the 2013 MC Ford Mondeo TDCi with the Powershift Transmission. Purchased the car with approx 85K on the clock and being a diesel I was keen on the better economy than the petrol version plus I was after the wagon titanium series so it was only offered in diesel. Mixed reviews from different people but thought I'd throw it out there to you? Your opinion on the things that require closer attention, and anything through your experience to keep a watchful eye on please? Overall, I am chuffed with the technology and capabilities of the driving dynamics and economy is by far better than I've ever seen before achieving roughly 1000 km per tank. Cheers
They do have good economy. Have seen injector seal issues, and obviously issues with the powershift transmissions. They seem to go through rear brakes as well for some reason.
Hi, this is more electrical related but i own a evo 8 mr and i've been noticing that while on idle my revs drop when i turn on my lights and sometimes it flickers however when im driving its fine. I've got a new battery and pretty sure my alternator is fine, what other factors could come in play and cause this issue.
Thank you.
When you turn on the a/C what do the revs drop to? Do they come back up?
the revs are higher when the a/c is on
What voltage do you get at the battery at idle with your lights on?
Not to service so much, but other parts are more expensive, but so are Honda compared to the others
They are excellent, I wouldn't hesitate to buy one.