Buying a Used BMW 335i and NOT getting a First Loan

My current car (Honda Civic EK 2000) has served me diligently these past few years but it is our time to part ways, and what better time with tax time being here.

EDIT: Cleaned this up so people don't need to read all the posts to work out whats going on, Check revisions for the older version if you want.

Hi, So currently interested in buying a car. I have around $15000. My current goal is something that is similar to a BMW 335i. (I am NOT interested in buying this car because of the badge I just genuinely like the look and feel of this car.) I am mechanically minded and plan on doing performance mods at some point so reliability is not really important to me.

So make some recommendations for:
*Sedans or Coupes
*Comfortable for 6'5" guy
*Fast
*Interior need to look nice
*Easily modifiable
*Also not econoboxes or commodores

Some cars to give you an idea of what I am looking for:
* BMW 335i (E90 or E92)
* Ford G6E
* Toyota Crown
* Toyota Mark X
* Nissan Maxima

UPDATE:
Started the process to get a Nissan Fuga from Japan, Also Bought a Kawasaki Ninja and got a motorcycle license.

Comments

  • +52 votes

    Yeah. Don't take out a car loan, especially on a second-hand car.

    • +19 votes

      Especially for an old Euro brand that's going to be expensive to repair and service. I really don't get the number of people who want to buy old BMWs or Mercs etc. Is it the perceived badge prestige because let me tell you, there isn't any on a 10+ year old car. There's barely any on a brand new car unless it's one of the high end models and even then only to certain people.

      You say you can afford $400 a month. So in just over a year you'll have saved the $5k you want to borrow and you won't be wasting money on paying off interest. Having been there and done that when I was younger and realising how stupid it was now that I'm older I highly recommend waiting if you can.

      •  

        Well I sadly need a new car pretty soon due to my civic being on its last legs, what would you get in my situation?

        Hard mode
        *Fast
        *Modern Looking
        *Comfortable
        *Good aftermarket support and modifiability

        • +14 votes

          what would you get in my situation?

          If you don't have money, don't get something fast, modern looking, comfortable and modifiable. Get a cheap, reliable car that will get you to work and back every day until you have the money to get something fast, modern looking, comfortable and modifiable.

          You have $10k, that's plenty for a newer model Civic or the like which will last you until your next upgrade.

        • +2 votes

          Get a quote for the insurance on your 335……

        •  

          If you can only afford 400 a month (and work FIFO based on your other posts) otherwise save more or reassess your vehicle requirements

        •  

          My main concern is you are going for a car that can be VERY costly to maintain as it ages, especially if you get an electronics or other complex issue. This is why they can be so cheap to buy as you are taking a gamble.

        • +16 votes

          Firstly so I'm not someone talking out my ass I own both an A45 AMG (2017) and an BMW X5 (2015). So I know a little about the servicing and upkeep of german vehicles.

          Quite simply don't get a loan for a car. Buy what you can afford. You might want the look and performance of owning a BMW but if you need to get a loan to buy one second hand then you're really going struggle with upkeep. German vehicles are great, but as stated above when things go wrong it is VERY expensive to fix them. The age you're talking about is the time when things start needing repair. Not in all cases, but you need to factor it in.

          The checklist you want vs the cash you have ($10k) is just not feasible. If you're employed and cash positive each paycheck I really reccomend just sticking with a reliable Japanese car until you can afford to outright buy the vehicle you want (ideally with a small buffer in the bank for if something does go wrong).

          I owned cheap reliable cars (Hyundai, Ford, toyota) for a long period of time before I was in a position to outright buy the cars I actually wanted. You'll feel much less stressed knowing you actually own the vehicle you're driving, and when you finally are in the position to purchase the car you want, the satisfaction will be immense.

          Either way best of luck with your future purchase whatever you decide. This was just my 2 cents.

        •  

          I would buying avoid an old 2nd hand lux car. I know you want modern luxury looking and that image associated with a lux car, however anyone that knows their branded cars, which are quite a lot of people these days, they will know that is a very old model regardless and not even look decently once at it, no matter how polished and large the exhaust and rims are. Someone driving past in a brand new Toyota Rav-4 hybrid will get more looks than the old BMW.

          Buy a car that you can afford at the moment and put some savings aside for a european car that is both ex-demo and run-out. You could get a BMW 1, 2, x1, x2, Merc A, CLA probably around 30ish exdemo/runout if there are any around. You can save a fortune that way, its only 1 series behind, covered under full warranty (which will prob be extended to 5 or 7 years as a promo) and prob even a few years free servicing thrown in. If you are in VIC, look interstate as will be cheaper

          One thing that has really put things in perspective now, is that most of the Ford Rangers and Toyota Hilux you see on the road, cost more than your average BMW and Merc "budget" models now. So that feeling and image of finally getting into a luxury car isn't like what it was 15 years ago.

          • -1 vote

            @Sammyboy: People seem to think I am buying this to show off, I am not. I look at it like a more modern skyline, It's got nothing to do with the BMW badge just that it is a really nice car.

            • +1 vote

              @JustASmoothSkin: It's not modern anymore by today's standards with led lighting, large portrait or landscape screens inside. It's a 10 year old car and looks it.
              Only get it if you can afford the cost of the car again in upgrades and maintenance, which you will never get back on selling.
              Sounds like you are set on it. Will be an expensive lesson learn. I think a few of us have learnt that with cars.
              If you are in medical you could probably get a cheaper rate with one of the companies that give special rates to medicos. Even students. In my day it was medfin. Not sure if they are around or how they compare now against the banks.
              Otherwise get a reliable Jap or Korean car ex demo with 5 years warranty and free service that will have decent power and all the latest connectivity and tech features, and get an up to date BMW in 5 years when you have finished specialising.

            • +3 votes

              @JustASmoothSkin: I think people are just looking at your wish list, comparing it to the car you're wanting to buy and making an educated guess as to what your motivations are.
              I mean this with no disrespect, but it's totally unrealistic for you to want the things you want, with the cash you have (in a German vehicle).
              Edit:
              I have noticed you updated your initial post to reflect you have around $15k to spend and no longer are talking about a loan, this is a positive step in the right direction. I'd still recommend you steer clear of anything older and German in that budget.
              If you're intent on looking to hit your checklist of:
              *Fast
              *Modern Looking
              *Comfortable
              *Good aftermarket support and modifiable
              Then Japanese is the way to go.
              In my humble opinion if you'd like to hit everything on that list in a BMW (for reference i consider modern to be anything 3 years old or under?) you're probably looking at spending $30k+ This also is very reliant on what you consider "fast" i suppose. That's very subjective.
              Good luck either way.

              Further Edit : Not sure if it's your jam, but have a look at the Toyota Aurions, you get 200kw in a car that's a few years old in your price range with a lot of the luxuries of a more expensive vehicle.

            • -1 vote

              @JustASmoothSkin: I understand where you're coming from. I think people will fight you here regardless of why you want an old BMW. If you're after a more modern skyline, what about a 350z? Locally sold, reliable and cheap rwd, moderately fast too.

        • +6 votes

          Have you considered a skoda vrs? They have a gti engine and are very moddable. Usually come with higher trims than their vw cousins for similar $$$.

          Some examples:
          - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2014-SKODA-Octavia-...
          - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2014-SKODA-Octavia-...
          - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2014-SKODA-Octavia-...

          •  

            @blergmonkeys: That wagon is beautiful.

          • +1 vote

            @blergmonkeys: I own an Octavia vRS and while I love it, it's a FWD 2.0 turbo 4. If I could afford one (and the maintenance), I'd much rather have a 335i with RWD 3.0 turbo 6. They're two completely different concepts.

          • +1 vote

            @blergmonkeys: I own a 2014 Octavia Skoda and I can 100% confirm that the trims and interiors are not as nice as their VW cousins from the same year (I've had the proper amount of time to begrudgingly accept this fact now.)

            •  

              @serpserpserp: Perhaps?

              I dunno, a friend of mine has an Audi A4 and another has a passat wagon from 2015/2016 respectively, and I'd argue the interiors are fairly similar to my 2017 octavia scout. There are some more soft plastics in the audi and the entertainment system is nicer, but I'm not sure they're any more luxurious. Do you have any specifics on what is better or worse?

              • +1 vote

                @blergmonkeys: First of all you need to compare year to year cars. Comparing cars that are released 2 or 3 years apart, of course they are going to catch up over that period.

                I am talking specifically 2014 in my experience, friends had a passat wagon and another a golf hatch from the same year. When you get in it is similar looking, but yes, there are more soft plastics, better dampeners which you can really tell once you get out on the free way, plus the ride is just a little bit better in the VW. I'm only talking base models here.

                They are very similar I agree and I wanted to believe they were the same. But after spending a lot of time in both, I would have to say the VW's are a more enjoyable ride/drive. Not leaps and bounds ahead, but ahead none the less.

                •  

                  @serpserpserp: Fair enough, I suppose that extra $20-$30k has to go somewhere. I'm not sure it's worth the added cost for such small niceties, but to each their own.

                  •  

                    @blergmonkeys: You mean extra 2-3k (when talking golf) the Passat is the next level up yeah? I know that my mates only paid slightly more for their cars than I did so maybe they were both golf's.

                    •  

                      @serpserpserp: Maybe I exaggerated, but the difference is about $10k between an octavia and an approximately equivalent golf. The RS wagon, which has a GTI engine, can be had for ~$40k-$45k with options. The equivalent (ish) golf, the R wagon, is ~$55k-$60k. Unfortunately, the golf doesn't come in a GTI wagon trim so apples can't necessarily be compared to apples.

                      Either way, I'm not sure the extra cost is worth it, but again, to each their own and you are entitled to your opinion. I just disagree with it.

                      • +1 vote

                        @blergmonkeys: Looking online now, there is very little price difference between say, the entry/base model Skoda/VW golf wagon for 2018. So really, there isn't a lot of extra costs unless you start adding packs on, then the prices vary. Of course if you start going up the scale on the more premium models there is going to be a bigger difference because VW as a brand pack a bit more into the cars compared to Skoda and don't cut as many corners so to speak (given that is in reality the difference between the two brands cause the cars themselves are pretty much from the same engineering base.) As a Skoda owner I was happy to take a less premium interior in the car to save a few thousand and in reality that is the proposition you get from a Skoda.

    •  

      Why especially 2nd hand?

  • +22 votes

    Some advice… Don't buy a used BMW.. NEVER and if you make that mistake make sure the KM's are very low i.e. under 50k

    • +1 vote

      Well said. A friend of mine came to me and asked for help. He said that he couldn't use his BMW anymore as it had somany issues. He is using a Corolla for a couple of years now and is absolutely loving it

      • -1 vote

        That is the first time I have every heard someone use the terms Corolla and love in the same sentence. I hate Corollas and find them to be the most boring car on earth, ugly and completely unsatisfying to drive.

        • +2 votes

          Yes but it is always relative. His previous car leaked oil and coolant. It looked like a golf ball due to hail damage. The rubber and plastic bits were all perishing and the list goes on.

    •  

      I think you'll find that any BMW being sold second hand under 50k of KM's is a) a lemon or b) as rare as hens teeth.

  • +7 votes

    You'll need to borrow A LOT more than $10k to pick up a 10 year old Bimmer with 120k on the clock. That thing will be a money pit that could easily see you dropping $10k to keep it on the road for the next 5 years.

    •  

      I was under the impression that the BMW 335i was a fairly reliable BMW due to the N54 being a twin turbo 6 cylinder, why is 120k km perceived as a lot of km?

      • +10 votes

        Here's the thing, the BMW 335i is actually a reliable car for 95% of things. So overall it looks decent.
        But that 5% of things happens to include "phantom electronics" and its nearly impossible to fix cheaply if you don't live in Germany. And yes, if/when that happens you would be looking at thousands in repair…. I know, because at one time I was saving up for the same car, since the 335i is like a fresher GTR 34. I keep myself from trying to not recommend the (superb) 1995-2005 Japanese sports cars anymore due to engine-bog, plastic crumble, rust, and parts availability.

        Here's the foreign sporty cars that I don't quite recommend:
        Infiniti GT370, Infiniti G35, Lexus IS350, Lexus GS450, Volvo S80, Jaguar XF, Volkswagen CC, VW Passat, Mercedes CL/S/K/E-350, Audi A4/A8, Audi S4, BMW 335i, BMW 540i/550i, Chrsyler 300C.

        Here's some Japanese cars that aren't that fast and/or aren't that flashy:
        Nissan 350Z, Nissan 370Z, Toyota 86/BRZ

        Now for fast cars that don't look flashy:
        TRD Aurion, Toyota MarkX, Holden Commodore, Ford XR6, Ford XR8, Honda Accord/Legend V6.

        But overall what I recommend is this:
        2009 Subaru Liberty GT-specB

        • +1 vote

          Damn, Thumbs up that’s a nice list. Haven’t heard anything about phantom electronics, seems like it would be a pain to fix to. Cheers for the heads up.

        • +24 votes

          370z not fast but V6 accord is? Lolwut

        • +1 vote

          Lexus IS and GS on the list for not recommended? Lexus is the most dependable make for many years running.

        • +1 vote

          happens to include "phantom electronics

          To be honest, a lot of euro cars that are in that 10-20 year bracket suffer from this. It isn't really "phantom" it is just that stuff fails and as you say, can be hard to find the parts to fix it (and costly to diagnose the root cause).

          But overall what I recommend is this: 2009 Subaru Liberty GT-specB

          lol I was agreeing a lot with what you were saying until you got here smh

          • -1 vote

            @serpserpserp: He wants something decently quick, stylish, and reliable.

            I can't think of any other car. What do you recommend?
            Evo's and Sti's at his price point are likely to cause some issues, and everything else is a 90's Japanese Sports. The Falcunt and Commonwhores sound like cars that lack some of the prestige the OP is looking for.

            Maybe he can get that sweet AWD-V8 Audi S4 at his budget, and tap some wood, cross his fingers, pick out a four-leaf clover, and get a rabbits-foot… and maybe he can have the best possible price/option, and have some superstitious protection from the car going tits-up.

      •  

        Single turbo?

      •  

        N54 and a twin turbo 6 cylinder has nothing to do with the drive shaft.

        •  

          I am lost with this comment, Whats wrong with the drive shaft?

          • +1 vote

            @JustASmoothSkin: There we go. You're now asking the right question.

            Google the cost and the frequency of problems with the non M badge (the real M) 3-series drive shaft.

            • +2 votes

              @tshow: I just did and a hole lotta nothing, A few videos on changing a 335i driveshaft because transmission noises. Again I feel this would be something that would have shown itself within the last ten years and has either been remedied already or will be painfully obvious if I was to test drive one.

              Google any car and problem and your going to find problems with it, Doesn't mean it will happen just that it may.

              •  

                @JustASmoothSkin: That's just the info I got from an acquintance BMW service mechanic (Singapore) when discussing mechanical similarities between the 3 and 4. First thing he said was same drive shaft problems.

                It sounds like you're already sold on the car so good luck with it.

      • +1 vote

        I picked up a 323i last year, what I thought was a bargain. Spent 3-4k so far plus a lot of my own time getting things fixed. Low km's, under 80,000 km's and now I'm selling at a loss. But it is a nice and good looking car.

      •  

        N55 is more reliable, generally speaking. The big difference is one is twin turbo (N54), and the other is single twin scroll turbo (N55).

        From what I've read the N54 people believed had over-engineered internals (forged crank rods) vs the N55s. But the N54 was there first go of a twin-turbo mass market inline 6. A lot of the surrounding parts were on their first revision. Your best off buying a N55 LCI. Low KM doesn't mean less problems either.

  • +5 votes

    Why would you pay $20k for a BMW with 120,000km on it! It sounds like a money pit. You can almost buy a new Japanese hatchback for that money which will last you for much longer and cost much less in ongoing costs.

    • +22 votes

      Cause OP doesn't want to live a boring life

      •  

        Everything comes with a price.

        Want to be different? Just be ready to pull out your credit card and don't say op haven't been warned by the almighty Oz bargain.

        • +4 votes

          Life is expensive unfortunately

          $38 out of pocket to see a doctor to get a prescription that costs $30 out of pocket.

          Pay private health insurance each month to avoid extra tax and then you go to see the dentist and have to fork about hundreds if not thousands of dollars more out of pocket.

          Sadly Australia is heading down the US mentality of everyone for themselves and pay as little tax as possible.

          Baby boomer generation has ripped off their children & grandchildren to get a few more dollars for themselves

          • +2 votes

            @chumlee: You're not doing it right. Find a bulk billing doctor to get your prescription. Find a no gap dentist for the basic/common procedures. Or hand in your Ozb badge lol

            I see you're in Melb so no excuse really

        •  

          Hey you can be the same as anyone else, Mum bought a Commodore Omega for $8000. The amount of money I have sunk into it now hurts to look at. The engine cost $5000 to replace (Which I had to get done twice because the "new" replacement engine seized after 3 days), Transporting it to the dealership because "Warranty" from 400km away another few hundred, Servicing at the dealership because "warranty" another $1000, Brakes because "warranty" another $900. Going to have to redo the bonnet soon because paint is fading on this 100K km car. Likely going to have to do another service before we sell it. And that's a "trustworthy" commodore. Hell even now I have to drive to 40KM to get the oil topped up at Holden because I will void the warranty on the engine if I do that, and yeah they charge me $20 for that as well.

          It's not being different, I understand BMWs have issues. I do know that they can be a money pit, I however have not found another car that can tick all the same boxes as a 335i and many BMW if regularly care for can reach the mid 200K kms without needing a stupid amount of money dropped on them.

          • +1 vote

            @JustASmoothSkin: The Omegas were absolute shit cars, IMO. Unreliable and had super expensive problems even after low KMs (engine, timing, ECU etc).

            •  

              @johnno07: Lots of poorly designed cars out there. And if it isn't poorly designed, you still need to be sure it wasn't poorly engineered, poorly built, poorly maintained/serviced/supported. 'She bought a Jeep' can be as bad as 'He bought a Fiat', or I bought GM, Ford, VW, etc. in Oz.

              Many of the shockers are made by the big manufacturers that people 'trust'. IMHO it pays to buy something that isn't a huge break with the past (a regularly improved model, one that is well regarded by people that know motorcars, and one that is not the first of its platform, or introduce radical core technologies) to get something reliable and cheap to maintain.

              All manufacturers have one or two poor models in their range, and others have several or struggle to make one god one. A good rule of thumb is to choose quality over quantity (or pay extra for it) to avoid making mistakes- oh, and don't buy a low volume model either.

              Eg. Mass produced and simpler VW Golf GTI will be more reliable than an R, etc.

      • -13 votes

        If you need a fast car to make your life interesting then news flash, your life is boring

        • +4 votes

          Can't OP do what he wants him his money?

        • +22 votes

          Do you drink alcohol go out partying? Well news flash, Your life is boring.

          The above is sarcasm, It's different strokes for different folks. I personally hate feeling inebriated or stoned, Being around people physically and mentally drains me. I don't like mumble rap about guns/femalecanines/drugs/money or loud repetitive pop music. However I do like Nu Jazz, Metal and alt rock. I like when a cars engine rumbles and I can feel it though my whole body (I don't like loud cars) I like feeling the acceleration when I floor it. Few things bring such a smile to my face as a perfect launch done manually when I have to do a late night maccas run.

          You do you man, I am going to do stuff that I enjoy.

          •  

            @JustASmoothSkin: Get a SS VE or an SV6 VF

            •  

              @abuch47: Dad has a 2012 VE Z-Series. It's Nice to drive when I pop down to see him from time to time, fast, comfy and reliable but the blind spots are infuriating and it has a really poor turning circle which also really really annoys me. It's so close to being perfect but those two problems really stick out to me. Not to mention being almost run off the road once because someone couldn't see me in my civic from their VE.

          •  

            @JustASmoothSkin:

            I like feeling the acceleration when I floor it.

            You should save up for an EV. The acceleration is instant and very fast. Nothing compares.

        •  

          Translation:

          "If you need to do something interesting to make your life interesting, then your life is boring"

          Slow clap

      • -1 vote

        Sure is exciting having to fork out for repairs on old Euro cars because you care what other people think when they see you in your car.

  •  

    it's a pity that australias currency is now made of plastic because that would make it hard for OP to burn in large quantities if they were to buy a 2nd hand high KM BMW.

    high KM BMW + Loan = disaster.

  •  

    "Have any better cars I could consider instead?"
    Sure, there are plenty… but what do you want?
    Manual/Auto? Sporty? Prestiege? Reliable & cheap motoring? Don't mind regular expensive repairs & servicing? Something to mod up or leave std?

    • +1 vote

      Luxury, Large but not a boat(6’5”), 300+ horsepower, Easily moddable with good aftermarket support, Looks modern, Comfortable, Auto or Manual dosent matter. Anything you can recommend?

      I can do most of the repairs and servicing, so most of the work won’t include labour costs.

      • +1 vote

        Any reason why you're not considering commodores? A VEII SS would fit most of your criteria.

        XR6 Turbo is the other obvious choice based on this criteria.

        • +1 vote

          The turning circle is 0.2m larger than the BMW which makes it impossible to park apparently.

      •  

        Honda Accord Euro Luxury 2008-2014 CU2 model. The original Euro has a cult modding community, the CU2 to a lesser extent. It's not 300hp but has great handling.

  • +1 vote

    Yes bad choice….don't take out a loan for a car like that (BMW) - get something that you can pay for completely with cash and then save the interest you would have paid otherwise…Mum x

  • +1 vote

    Yea nope. Dont do it. Nobody will think your car is nice and you will loose a shed load of money thinking you are in a nice car.

  • +6 votes

    Buying an expensive brand on finance to show off is sad.

    Spend the $10000 on a reliable brand that may last for 10 years with a lower TCO.

    •  

      Not really showing off, I just want something nice. Got anything to recommend?

    • +4 votes

      Who said it was to show off? The 335i is a joy to drive around

      • +3 votes

        This guy gets it haha, The 335i is the successor to the legendary e46 and is a bit different to your regular bimmer. With a twin charged 6 cylinder that produces a cats hair over 300 horse power while still being under 9 liters per 100km and all without looking like a kids toy looking at you BRZ/86GT. Pairing all that with the luxuries one would expect from a $120000 bimmer at launch and shockingly good aftermarket support, It’s hard to beat it if you have a “I want it all.” Mentality.

        • +2 votes

          You obviously havent heard the stories where every time you put the foot on the accelarator the car stuffs up and goes into limp mode.

          •  

            @TheBilly: Yeah I know about the high pressure fuel pump issues, pretty easy fix, but in a 10 year old car should have already been solved.

            • +2 votes

              @JustASmoothSkin: The issue isnt knowing what the fix is. The issue is everytime it occurs you have to go to that specialist guy who only happens to be 1 of 4 in the state, to plug a specialist diag computer to your car, to tell you what you already know, charge you $500 in the process to reset the ECU… BMWs are designed not to be meddled with, they make it difficult to fix simple things.

              • +3 votes

                @TheBilly: I already have a Bluetooth tool that can clear the codes on a 335i, and BMW’s are pretty fun to meddle with. Many BMWs like the E46 a legendary for it, Just a lot of sensors and always have to run a tune if doing any proformance mods (which is any car nowadays)

                I know where most people come from,we got spoilt with Jdm from the mid 90 to early naughts. Super reliable cars that where both easy and fun to work on, nowadays it is a headache because you accedently crush a brake sensor when changing the brakes, spilt oil onto the engine and now the fumes set of a cornucopia of other sensors or the HPFP has to put even a modicum of effort into pumping and the tolerances are to strict and whoops limp mode. But that’s honestly the story with any car nowdays. Most people I know that used to love working on old red top Silvia’s or hoover vq 300zx’s have nearly entirely given up working on their current ride because of how expensive it can get when 1 sensor decides it dosen’t Like doing it’s 1 task.

                • +1 vote

                  @JustASmoothSkin: Hi Mate,

                  I just bought a 335i about 8 months ago. I bought an excellent example that had been very well looked after, and have all preventative maintenaince done prior to me. I haven't spent a cent on it so far as it is in such good condition.

                  The main things are as mentioned in this thread, HPFP, and wastegate rattle. My HPFP has been replaced already, and I am not going to cry when I have to replace the turbos. I don't have the rattle yet at 140k. I do have stage 2 tune and catless downpipes which triggers the check engine light rarely, which is jus the computer saying there is something wrong with the 'cats' which aren't there.

                  If you get a well looked after one from someone who has been rich enough to afford it and maintain it well, I don't think you will have too many issues. The problem is that there are plenty around that have been thrashed by poeple who bought the car they can't afford.

                  Good Luck they are amazingly beautiful cars. I say the last of the quality BMWS.

                  • +1 vote

                    @smpantsonfire: This is what I chose to believe as well, Its a beautiful shaped car with all the right curves in all the right places. It just sad BMW skimped quality on a few things and with their history, I know a couple 335i owners that say the same thing. BMW is one of the most reliable cars, Not because they are durable but because they aren't and the things that like to not work generally not work on all of them. So if you get a older well cared for one, Most of the issues would have already come and gone.

                    Also single big spinney boi woosh sounds in our futures, haha. ~Sobs in wastegate failure~

                  • +1 vote

                    @smpantsonfire:

                    that there are plenty around that have been thrashed by poeple who bought the car they can't afford.

                    Well lucky OP can afford the car outright and has money to burn. Oh wait a minute….

            •  

              @JustASmoothSkin: Normal fuel pumps become prone to failure after 10 years- some will go before, or longer, but it depends on a lot of things really. Given that they cost $50-$200 for most cars, its a great preventative fix that avoids being stuck somewhere late on a rainy night. Some are easier to replace than others, but its worth doing so long as you make sure the replacement seal is good and doesn't allow gas or fuel to leak.

              •  

                @resisting the urge: The fuel pump they are talking about is an an engine driven pump. It's a known issue.

                •  

                  @brendanm: Indeed. I mention that as low pressure pumps are still a common failure on all cars. There's a lot of 10 year old 335s around.

                  With high pressure pumps, it should be understood this does not affect all N54s as per 335/535, and a revised part was released within a few years of introduction, along with a software update. All things considered, they executed a reasonable solution to a design problem affecting a low volume, high performance car, packed with market leading latest tech.

                  Buyers of this kind of car have to expect this kind of problem. All they can do is hope they won't be left on their own to find a solution

                  •  

                    @resisting the urge: Doesn't affect all n54s?

                    •  

                      @brendanm: Nope. The NA ones I know of are fine. Did a LP pump in one recently. There are some turbo ones also that have gone 7+ years without this happening. But if you post on the web a lot, increase boost, drive it hard, spend a day or two at the track, who knows, shit seems to happen. These pumps generate insane pressures, and maybe a lot of heat, and/or on/off throttle work does them in.

                      More like they are spec'd for normal boost and increasing it, chipping the ECU, anything that the average 1 series guy does, makes for pressure spikes they aren't designed to handle

                      Drive it like a normal car all day and maybe the problem will never come your way. There are tens of thousands of them out there.

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                        @resisting the urge: All n54s are turbocharged.

                        Boost has nothing to do with the hpfp.

                        I would almost bet my house that you are aussiecarguy/user88 whatever he is now from whirlpool.

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                          @brendanm: Perhaps avoid gambling. If you really had, you'd already have lost your house. I'm not whoever you think.

                          The 125/325 have NA N54s, oh wait, sorry- they're called N53s. Look the same to me, same thing no turbo, does that make sense?

                          All I meant is that I've never seen one that needed doing, and they have the same engine, the same pump, and I'm yet to see one fail.

                          How many 125s, 325s and 525s have you had to change this pump on?

                          Or… are you just too busy trolling me?

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                            @resisting the urge: Trolling you? You said that the n54 was available without turbo, surely it's you who is trolling.

                            I haven't done any on n53s, as I'm pretty sure Australia never even got it, but as we are talking about the n54, that's a moot point. I don't imagine BMW recalled them and then offered an extended warranty in the us for no reason.

                            Hmmmm, your post style, lack of knowledge and pretending to have more experience than you do reminds me very much of him.

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                              @brendanm: Thanks for your thoughts and kind comments

                              I've seen two N53s so far, thank you- so they sure are here.

                              Perhaps they are UK/SA imports, I didn't notice any plates. Both had SA owners though.

                              You are the one that said boost won't affect the HPFP.

                              If it didn't why would they have rolled out a software update to all cars, not just the ones that fail? Boost and associated combustion params do impact loads on the HPFP instantly via the fuel column

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                                @resisting the urge: Just checked and we didn't get the n53 due to our crap fuel, I was sure I hadn't seen any non turbo direct injected ones.

                                N53 had the same fuel pump recall, and there are plenty of failures reported from a quick gander. Even without the evil boost!

                                I'm sure that 9psi boost will wreak havoc on the 1600+ psi in the "fuel column" (whatever that is). Not sure how the boost is apparently even getting in to the fuel system.

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                                  @brendanm: The fuel in the line is the fuel column. Boost can wreak havoc in the fuel system if exposed to combustion pressure.

                                  Which is why N54 runs near F1 pressures in the rail. If it wasn't high enough, even a non turbo engine like this will push fuel and even air back into the fuel system, the moment the injectors open during the compression stroke. It's an expensive and precise design introduced to gain absolute control over combustion and incredible output/economy.

                                  The HFPF generating all the pressure would fail if it faces momentary peaks and/or drops that destroy its seals. What would take them beyond their design limits could easily be as simple as an extra few PSI of extra boost.

                                  It may not even be the increased boost doing it directly- there are likely contributing factors, perhaps the ECU is increasing rail pressure, (if it does this as well as injector duration), whilst trying to maintain stoic.

                                  Had a look at the TIS just now, and service info is all related to N54 turbo engines only. BMW claim low percentages of cars affected. And the software fix was to deal with fuel pressures dropping overnight, causing problems at start up that are resolved by shutting down and restarting, which get worse over time as the seals in the HPFP get worse. They resolved the problem in 2010 (last service bulletin on the matter) and post 2010 cars had the revised HPFP and software changes. New pumps costs $200 or so so, its not a big deal these days even if you have an early one.

                                  My point was to attempting to make clear that blown seals on a new piece of kit pushing tech to the limit is to be expected. And after all this it turns out this is a known and long-resolved issue that didn't even affect all N54s 2007-2010, let alone the ones made after 2010, which is what the OP is considering. All the 'whinging and whining' is mainly to do with people bleating on forums ten years ago and a few litigious loonies in the US trying to claim they had an accident because loss of power caused a crash.

                                  And we don't get crap fuel in Oz. We don't have the world's best fuel standards, but ours is nowhere near as bad as the variations between petrol stations, let alone states in the US, who preference locally produced oil/fuels. We import petrol from a global market. Those Alusil/Nikasil myths were a PR exercise which quickly became an internet hoax.

        • +1 vote

          Hey dont rag on BRZ/86! Easily the best value for money and handling car thats RW and made in the last 10 years. It is a shame it is a P plater special.

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