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1/2 Price Castrol Magnatec Engine Oil 10W-40 5 Litre $23.39 @ Supercheap Auto

110

I was trying to find out why my '30mins CC' took 30hours. Then I saw this deal. Not sure how good it is.

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Comments

  • +1 vote

    Not the same grade, but if you're going to go semi syn, this one is a way better deal and plenty of stock last I walked in. $15 for 5w30

    https://www.autobarn.com.au/semi-synthetic-5w-30-advanced-pr...

    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/488115

  • +2 votes

    As pointed out by Calvin, this is semi synthetic - not suitable for cars that require full synthetic oil.

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      Correct - everyone should follow their owners manual religiously when doing oil changes themselves (and even if getting them done outside a dealer). There are a lot of new vehicles that are recommended to run on semi-syn still, but anything turbo charged or high compression and a lot of euro makes seem to require full syn. A lot of japanese/korean cars seem to be fine with either and most older vehicles are happy on and often prefer semi-syn.

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        i thought older vehicles prefer mineral oil…

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          depends on how old i guess - late 90s/2000s is fine on semi syn, you go to mineral oil as a bodge iif its got excessive wear. people have used diesel oil to this end as well - it works but its not recommended, bit of a last resort tactic to keep something alive a bit longer when its already too far gone.

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            @Wilburre: I'm guessing anything over 200k on the clock is excessive wear which means use mineral oil?

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              @Zachary: Depends a lot on the engine. When I was in NZ I had a mazda capella with 220 on the clock - we used semi syn in it as it was full of sludge - mineral would have made it worse and it didnt't have excessive wear. I also had a legnum with 210 on it and while it had decent service history it had a lot of top-end rattle due to the hydraulic lifters. Due to it being high compression we still ran semi-syn in it but used a higher weight to shut it up a bit.

              When I say excessive wear its stuff like valve seals and worn rings or scarred cylinder walls - stuff that will give you blowby and smoke - thicker weight oil (too thick is a bad idea though) and mineral oil can help "hide" the problem - its the sort of thing you do on a car that you know will be too expensive to fix properly with a rebuild or replacement engine and you want some more life out of it. Mineral oil has inconsistent molecule sizes and that can help it fill gaps better than semi and full syn which are more and fully uniform and generally better for hiugh performance as the oil performance is controlled and consistent.

  • +2 votes

    This is suitable for my lemon of a car, 2002 Astra TS. Thanks, OP.

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    Ahh sludgatec, avoid it. Get Nulon/Penrite instead.

    • +1 vote

      Nothing wrong with this oil. It's fine to go in any car as long as it meets manufacturer specifications.

      I use this in my VT Commodore and run it to 10k km intervals. 343k kms on the odometer and it still goes strong.