I was trying to find out why my '30mins CC' took 30hours. Then I saw this deal. Not sure how good it is.
1/2 Price Castrol Magnatec Engine Oil 10W-40 5 Litre $23.39 @ Supercheap Auto
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frewer on 16/10/2019 - 10:15 supercheapauto.com.au (310 clicks)
Last edited 16/10/2019 - 12:08 by 1 other user
Last edited 16/10/2019 - 12:08 by 1 other user
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As pointed out by Calvin, this is semi synthetic - not suitable for cars that require full synthetic oil.
Correct - everyone should follow their owners manual religiously when doing oil changes themselves (and even if getting them done outside a dealer). There are a lot of new vehicles that are recommended to run on semi-syn still, but anything turbo charged or high compression and a lot of euro makes seem to require full syn. A lot of japanese/korean cars seem to be fine with either and most older vehicles are happy on and often prefer semi-syn.
i thought older vehicles prefer mineral oil…
depends on how old i guess - late 90s/2000s is fine on semi syn, you go to mineral oil as a bodge iif its got excessive wear. people have used diesel oil to this end as well - it works but its not recommended, bit of a last resort tactic to keep something alive a bit longer when its already too far gone.
@Wilburre: I'm guessing anything over 200k on the clock is excessive wear which means use mineral oil?
@Zachary: Depends a lot on the engine. When I was in NZ I had a mazda capella with 220 on the clock - we used semi syn in it as it was full of sludge - mineral would have made it worse and it didnt't have excessive wear. I also had a legnum with 210 on it and while it had decent service history it had a lot of top-end rattle due to the hydraulic lifters. Due to it being high compression we still ran semi-syn in it but used a higher weight to shut it up a bit.
When I say excessive wear its stuff like valve seals and worn rings or scarred cylinder walls - stuff that will give you blowby and smoke - thicker weight oil (too thick is a bad idea though) and mineral oil can help "hide" the problem - its the sort of thing you do on a car that you know will be too expensive to fix properly with a rebuild or replacement engine and you want some more life out of it. Mineral oil has inconsistent molecule sizes and that can help it fill gaps better than semi and full syn which are more and fully uniform and generally better for hiugh performance as the oil performance is controlled and consistent.
stuff that will give you blowby and smoke
Oh, does that explain some cars I see driveby with black or visibily smokey smoke from their tail pipes?
This is suitable for my lemon of a car, 2002 Astra TS. Thanks, OP.
have you changed the water pump at least 3 times? If not, the car is doing well
Bought it in January 2010 and haven't changed the water pump yet, not even when I had the timing belt changed about four years ago.
that's great, cause you said "lemon of a car" thought you were fixing it every month
@Winston100s: Nah. They have a bad reputation in general. It had a major engine issue when I first bought it, but it has been running fine since then.
@AussieDaddy: Well got a 2003 model, worse thing about them is the ECU dying alot in the hot weather. Other than that they aren't to bad.
Ahh sludgatec, avoid it. Get Nulon/Penrite instead.
Nothing wrong with this oil. It's fine to go in any car as long as it meets manufacturer specifications.
I use this in my VT Commodore and run it to 10k km intervals. 343k kms on the odometer and it still goes strong.
Not the same grade, but if you're going to go semi syn, this one is a way better deal and plenty of stock last I walked in. $15 for 5w30
https://www.autobarn.com.au/semi-synthetic-5w-30-advanced-pr…
https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/488115