BMW 3 Series Questions - How Reliable Are They Really? Maintenance Costs?

Mike0707 on 25/08/2020 - 18:59
Last edited 25/08/2020 - 19:00

I have always loved BMWs and I’m in my late 20’s and would love to grab one while I’m still relatively young and don’t have a family etc. I have a budget of $10K and have found a model in particular that fits my budget and i think would be a really nice buy That ticks the practical boxes for me while still being something i love to drive on the daily. People close to me though are negative on the idea and are saying things can go wrong (ie “auto transmission has been known to go”) and when they do its ridiculously expensive - ultimately being pessimistic.

I feel this is a bit of fearmongering so to speak and i wanted to get some honest takes from people that know them well without scouring forums.

The one I am strongly considering is a:
2009 BMW 320d
155,000kms on the clock
Great condition and 2 owners first owner was a lady that bought it originally brand new.

I test drove it and it felt pretty great overall.
Thoughts guys - thanks in advance :)

Automotive

Comments

  • Fudnut on 26/08/2020 - 09:39
    +1

    I'm kinda of the opinion "if you've gotta ask, then you can't afford one"

    • 91rs on 26/08/2020 - 10:25

      If you've gotta ask AND it's a diesel, you don't know what you're buying and again you can't afford one.

  • Oofy Doofy on 26/08/2020 - 10:22
    +4

    Borrow your neighbour's BMW, seriously, borrow it and then get it out of your system, then hand it back.

    Otherwise lease and hand it back when you're tired of it, Carbar.com.au is a decent place to start.

    Don't put anything into these money pits unless you enjoy throwing money away.

  • 91rs on 26/08/2020 - 10:24
    +3

    Terrible car to drive, I feel you're just looking for the badge.
    Diesel was never on anyone I knows bucket list especially if you're the slightest bit interested in cars.
    Plastics under the bonnet are old and brittle, things will break, timing chains are an issue, the diesel has next to no performance and old BMW diesels can get noisy (neighbour with an X5 which sounds like a tractor so we know when he's arriving or leaving), if you're not handy and able to be hands on to find faults and fix them (or find and evaluate if you can or need to take it to someone) then i'd steer clear of them.

    You call it fear mongering but the rest of us just know it's actually trouble and isn't worth the risk or maybe should I say I wouldn't put myself in that position having to deal with issues for a diesel BMW, there is no prestige or wow factor attached to that.

    • SlickMick on 29/08/2020 - 08:12
      +1

      A 320d was my first diesel. The torque is amazing. It had the fastest takeoff of any car I've driven. BMW does a good job of marketing, but their cars live up to expectation. Moving from a commodore to a 320d was pure driving pleasure.

      My next car was a diesel. I'll never go back to petrol. Not a bucket list, just the first thing I look for in a car.

      btw didn't have a plastic component fail in ~10 years with a 320D. Some electronics and a timing chain.That's it. There wasn't a single squeek, chaff, or glued component lift.
      The quality left everything else I'd driven in the dust.

      However, I drive a Kia now and I'm very happy with that too. I'm not saying only BMW make quality cars, but I reckon you're wrong to rubbish them.

      Oh, but the diesels probably are noisy to those outside. Our friends thought a truck had arrived the first time we visited in the 320d. But you don't hear anything in the cabin.
      The Kia doesn't achieve the soundproofing that bmw does.

  • Ciderfizz44 on 26/08/2020 - 10:28
    -1

    Put that 10k towards Camry Hybrid, no smokescreens and mirrors. You will thank me later.

  • Zondor on 26/08/2020 - 10:55
    +2

    There's a reason people only buy BMW's and get rid of them as soon as the lease/warranty is over.

  • Aazza on 26/08/2020 - 10:56

    Personal experience - a couple years back my partner had a 2009 Mini Cooper with about 90,000kms on the odometer. Engine started leaking oil and the exhaust started blowing out white smoke so we took it to the mechanic.

    Turns out there were no aftermarket alternatives for the required replacement parts and the mechanic had to order everything from BMW themselves for the repair. Cost us about $2k in total, and we got rid of the car as soon as we could.

    My advice is be prepared to pay full manufacturer price for genuine BMW parts to fix the car when something goes wrong. Car looked cute though!

  • geoffs87 on 26/08/2020 - 11:07
    +3

    I have a 7yr old X1, looking forward to getting rid of it to avoid the multitude of expensive services/repairs it will be due in the coming years.

    Had the same view, always wanted a beamer, made some cash selling a couple properties in my late 20's, always wanted a BMW, so bought a 4yr old one.

    Itch scratched, back to the drawing board, probably a $40k Japanese/Korean SUV with 5yrs warranty and a $1200 5yr service plan will be my next car!

  • nascar77 on 26/08/2020 - 11:12
    +2

    Buy a 335/ n54 engine if u want to enjoy/experience a BMW. N54 is tuner's wet dream. If u r really into cars it will be an amzing experience otherwise just dont buy an old bmw. keep 3k per yr as possible repairs.
    Not sure why would someone consider 3 series a luxury car. 7 series is the only luxury car in the bmw line.

  • Jaystea on 26/08/2020 - 12:32
    +5

    Get a mazda MX-5. That'd be my fun little zipper on a budget.

  • payless69 on 26/08/2020 - 13:01

    330 Nm torque and rwd, you can get a Korean 2l with 400Nm over a wider range and awd, might not contribute to lenthening the manhood but choice is choice!

  • goody on 26/08/2020 - 13:02
    +7

    A few years ago I was looking at used M3s and asked my mechanic about them: "Anytime you think about buying a used BMW go out the back and bash yourself in the head really hard".

  • soaringphoenix on 26/08/2020 - 13:13
    +2

    +1 to the suggestions of an MX5 if you want a fun car to drive in your 20s. Of all the cars I have driven, the ND MX5 is the most fun.

    That said, if you're going to get a BMW in that price range, you may as well get a something a little more proper than a diesel base model. Expect big bills, but I'd go for https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2007-bmw-3-series-3…

  • wiipantz on 26/08/2020 - 13:19

    That was a family car…
    Troll post

  • looster on 26/08/2020 - 13:51
    +3

    I would stay away. BMWs at that age tend to have endless trouble. BMW = Brings More Worries

  • ghostdom on 26/08/2020 - 14:45
    +1

    tbh, i don't see how a bmw, which is 7-8 years younger than you and diesel(not even a classic inline 6), can make your late 20's left less regret.

    if I were you, at least I will be looking at a less trouble jap car with more characters. like a 350z, mx-5 or a bit budget stretched 86.

  • patmccrotch on 26/08/2020 - 14:45

    I had a second hand 2008 320i for a couple years. Beautiful car, and felt great driving it. Since I previously only had very average cars I did tend to worry about the BMW - where I parked it etc. - but that's just me. Before I bought it I took it to a known BMW mechanic to get it checked out, he said it was fine and he was right. I never had any mechanical issues whatsoever. I ended up selling it after about 2 years and did about $10k. Bought another Toyota and stopped worrying, but the overall BMW experience for me was very positive, just keep in mind they do cost more to service, parts more expensive etc.

  • casho on 26/08/2020 - 14:47

    So many helpful people. I will try and be helpful. I have owned 3 series BMW's for the last 15 years. I always buy a low kilometre 10yo model. So far I've had e46 330CI and E90 330i. The only issues I've had with them have been devices that die in cars over 10yo, namely flat battery, water pump and alternator. Find one with full service history, get it checked at a Euro specialist before purchasing, and get it serviced at the Euro specialist. A stealership will rip you a massive new one!

    • greatlamp on 28/08/2020 - 13:00
      +1

      Unfortunately OP is doing it all wrong. Instead of buying a low km luxury badge with a decent engine, then going older until they can afford… they are trying to buy the newest car, and settling for the lowest spec with a gutless engine.

      • casho on 28/08/2020 - 15:51

        Some people value newness over everything else

  • ghostdom on 26/08/2020 - 16:04
    +7

    with 10k budget, and wish to feel more of a BMW, i would be considering a 1 series E82 coupe with inline 6 - 125i.

    better engine and better driving experience.
    something like this:

    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2009-bmw-1-series-1…

    • soaringphoenix on 27/08/2020 - 08:44

      Excellent suggestion - far more desirable than the 320d.

    • Jaystea on 28/08/2020 - 21:25

      They don't make soupe 1 series anymore! A great little zipper to have imo. WAY better than the 3 series.

  • Bambergdon on 26/08/2020 - 16:24
    +3

    I have a straight 6 cylinder BMW from 2001. Aside from a few bulbs, thermostat, wiper pumps and window mechanisms it has been absolutely bullet proof. Still a joy to drive.

    For an older car out of warranty you just need a fair mechanic and stay away from the dealerships and even specialist independent BMW repairers. Despite what you may think the cars are so common that good spare parts OEM, off market or second hand are readily available and not that expensive.

    Unless you have a fair mechanic I would be wary of buying any old car.

  • Aerith-Waifu on 26/08/2020 - 16:54
    +3

    A friend had her timing belt replaced, along with radiator and a few small bits and pieces. $4500 was the bill…………………

    You sure you wanna go down that road?

    Get a Suzuki or Toyota for piece of mind

  • greatlamp on 26/08/2020 - 19:11
    +3

    The sweet spot for BMWs is around 30k-40k, where you can pick up something that has an rrp of 90-100k

    The stereotype of 'unreliable' BMWs is really unfounded. Their reliability is market average, and many brands will now charge you $1000 for a simple service

    • Indomietable on 26/08/2020 - 21:47
      +4

      The stereotype of 'unreliable' BMWs is really unfounded

      For new BMW maybe unfounded, but for 10 year or older it is not unfounded.

      When the car no longer under warranty, the car is a ticking time bomb.

  • retardedrabit on 26/08/2020 - 20:44
    +1

    I had a 2011 BMW 320i I bought for 12k. There were oil leaks from the rocker cover, vacuum pump and engine sump. The valve stem seals were worn (was blowing blue smoke). Most of the oil leak can't be detected unless you take the car to a mechanic. My advice is to get whatever the car you are intending to buy inspected by a professional. I'd also suggest the Lexus IS 250 or Honda Accord V6 as similar priced alternatives that are more reliable.

    • 91rs on 26/08/2020 - 21:47
      +1

      +1 Honda Accord V6
      Much better car.

  • Kkuba on 26/08/2020 - 21:44
    +6

    I bought a BMW, it has been very unreliable, but an amazing car to drive.

    I am a car guy, and do all my own mechanical work, which I enjoy doing, so I don't mind. I will say it has never left me stranded though.

    The worst I have had, was a pin on the turbo wastegate actuator sheared off. This meant the turbo was useless.

    I removed the turbo, fixed it by having a new pin fabricated and replaced the original turbo.

    A mechanic would not have fixed the turbo, instead just replaced it for probably 2-3k (just for a new turbo) plus probably the same again in labour.

    I did it with just new gaskets and fluids for about $200, and many weekends of work.

    I have had the water pump go twice. About 900 for a new pump each time. That's just for the parts, I did all the work myself.

    Door latch went, another 200. Throttle body 500. Rocker cover gasket is a regular maintenance item (I'm preparing to do one again soon), 200-300 each time. Probably more that I can't remember.

    But I love the car. It's hard to find manual, RWD cars these days.

    I have heard it put this way: You either buy a prestige car new, and pay for it in depreciation, or buy it used and pay for it in maintenance.

    In summary, be prepared to do a lot of your own work or pay for the maintenance. But it will be a nice car.

    • Flowerbomb on 26/08/2020 - 22:14

      Does this logic apply to mercs, which are slightly "more reliable" than bmws?

      • greatlamp on 27/08/2020 - 08:40

        Stick to the more recent mercs - the w204 is very obviously a better built car than its equivalent 3 series BMW.

        You also get a better engine - BMW offer a 320d - 2L turbo diesel, and a 330d, the 330d is amazing - 3L 6cyl turbo diesel, but very uncommon (in Australia at least)

        Mercedes have a 4cyl 2.2L turbo diesel - 200 cdi, and twin turbo version - 250 cdi. The 250 is easy to find and in a similar price range to the 320d, but much smoother and more powerful

  • Flowerbomb on 26/08/2020 - 22:12

    Didn't know BMWs were that cheap, but i guess it comes with lots of maintenance issues.

  • Tiredman on 26/08/2020 - 22:18

    We have a 2005 one from new so pretty much the same gen i believe. Still using it today.

    Main issues are oil leaks (spent $5k last year on fixing it) and replacing a bunch of hoses which is normal for a 15 year old car. Nothing major before this so i would say it's fairly reliable. Also swapped out the radiator and rotors myself. Not too hard if you have decent DIY skills.

  • TheBird on 26/08/2020 - 23:55
    +1

    I bought a 318 on a whim a long time back. Cost maybe $16k.

    One of the most gutless cars I've ever driven. Nice to drive fast on the freeway if you've got the patience to get to speed.

    One of the most demanding cars I've ever had, maintenance wise. It ran like crap unless you get it serviced all the time. Unfortunately I had more money than sense and got it services at a local BMW dealer. Friggin cost a fortune to keep serviced.

    In the end the ex demanded it when we parted ways. You can only imagine the smile on my face when a year later I found out the car was off the road. She couldn't afford the maintenance on it.

    I wouldn't get another 3 series ever.. Maybe I'd get a M5 if I had a large wad of cash I wanted to flush down the toilet.

  • jelko on 26/08/2020 - 23:57
    +4

    You're too poor for a BMW.

  • KLoNe on 27/08/2020 - 08:17
    +2

    If you took the BMW badge off it, you wouldn't think it was worth $3k let alone $10k

  • seraphim2017 on 27/08/2020 - 09:52
    +1

    10k is not BMW money, live to your means.

    Honesty time, nothing screams sad like a souped up wheelie bin of a knackered 'premium' car. A really good example which will be nice to own (not just drive) will cost more than your budget.

    If you're going to go premium marque, do it properly when you can afford to buy one and run one in good condition.

  • imrichkid on 27/08/2020 - 11:50

    Do it. But I wouldn't pay over $8k for this car. What you're after is also not a fast car. People are gonna say don't do it, and they're right. But you won't be stop thinking about it because you want the badge and the pride from driving it. The thing is you won't know when it's gonna just break down for a trip to your Grandma's. Have a Tow Truck number ready on your phone to call. A small piece of part could easily cost thousands. But it will be a great lesson learnt for your life later on.

  • Thatsgold on 27/08/2020 - 11:56
    +1

    Buy a Yaris my friend…the chicks love it when i drive pass them…….

    I should mention that the chicks I'm referring to are my 7 chickens ^___^

  • Mouthful on 27/08/2020 - 12:33

    Personal advice is that spend a bit more and get the more modern BMW drive train which is more reliable and in pretty much all their cars (1,2,3,5,X,Z etc.). Probably another $10k more but your car wouldn't be junk value if you were to drive it for 5 years.

    20i, 28i N20 4cyl 2.0L turbo engine with the 7 speed ZF gearbox is pretty reliable and well understood platform.. F platform's infotainment is a pretty big improvement too..

  • brad1-8tsi on 27/08/2020 - 13:09

    I love BMWs. I even came back from a German trip (with visit to the BMW factory) and worked as a BMW tech for a few months (there was a huge issue with salary that wasn't going to be resolved so i left).

    I've never bought one because I've always found a reason not to.

    If I was, the sensible choice is either a naturally aspirated 6 or 4 cylinder, preferably manual.

    You'll want to be either mechanically inclined and do a lot of the work yourself or have a trusted BMW specialist mechanic. They don't have to be cheap but they do have to know the cars and be honest.

    It's also helpful if you take enough interest to know where to get parts as AUS is ridiculously overpriced. IIRC my mate got the VANOS actuators for his M5 about 45% cheaper - that's a 4 figure saving.

    I have quite a few mates with BMWs (325, early 320D, 328,1M, M3, M5, 740). They aren't money pits but they aren't Camrys either. If you can get one with the bulk of depreciation all done then they can be a good buy.

    My mate with the 328 M-Sport sold his private for $26k. 5 years old 145k. It was a good car at a camry 4 cylinder price point.

  • PDeez on 27/08/2020 - 22:48

    Had a 318i for years, never had any problems but didn't do a lot of k's. Nice looking cars and pleasant enough to drive, particularly those with full leather interior. I might have just been lucky but mine was mechanically very good and only needed basic maintenance, despite being a 2003 model.

  • MildMethod on 27/08/2020 - 23:24
    +2

    I had the same concerns before I bought my 2010 X1 SDrive20D. Most friends (who all have long history's in the car "scene") said stay away…

    So I bought one, haha. It had 90k KLM on the clock and was about 7 years old when I bought it and its been great.

    I'm too old and sensible to drive like I used to. Most of the time I engage cruise control and just enjoy the comfortable ride. So I'm not putting any unnecessary stress on the car.

    I'm an IT guy, but service it myself, like I've done with all my cars (that haven't had warranties) for the last 20+ years. Like any car its required replacement of worn parts like brake rotors, brake pads, wipers etc. All pretty standard and no big deal. I did get lazy once and got a shop to perform a brake fluid flush and they tried to pull the wool over my eyes telling me the battery is almost dead and also wanted to charge me $2k to replace the brake rotors and pads (cost me $500 to do it myself). Oh and the battery is still fine after 20 months of driving, although it will probably need replacing soon (now at 130k KLM) as its a bit sluggish when starting if I don't drive it for a week during winter (during covid/wfh).

    A stone broke the windscreen a month after I bought it, which was covered by insurance, with no troubles since.

    Had to replace one headlight globe, which was fiddly, but not impossible and cost the same as any other globe I've replaced in a car.

    There was a recall for the airbags and once BMW fixed it I took my car home and the windows would not wind back up. I took the car back to them and they fixed it free of charge and I haven't had any issues since.

    The only interior fault is the drivers side interior door handle. The material is starting to flake, but its minor (I'm pretty fastidious) and at $80 to replace it with a genuine part, I'll just replace it before I sell it.

    Personally, I prefer to buy cars with less than 100k KLM, so if you're looking at something with over 150k KLM on the clock you have to expect lots of wear and tear and therefore you will need to factor into your budget replacement of worn parts.

    All my previous cars have been Subaru, Toyota, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Holden, Ford, etc. Ive owned new and second hand cars. This is my first Euro and I wish I had bought one sooner.

    The KLM and age of the car are now creeping up to a number where I'd usually sell, but I am attached to this car. It feels safe and solid on the road, and is such a pleasure to drive. I don't want to sell it.

    • balbags on 28/08/2020 - 10:41

      That's a great insight and I think I am much like you with my BMW. Good to hear that responsible ownership leads to lasting use.

      Good read regarding the dealership, my brakes and rotors were quoted at $3000. I was still laughing when I was tightening the last wheel nut up and I was only down $600 by doing it myself.

  • Puffin54 on 28/08/2020 - 00:26

    Hi Mike
    Have a BMW 320d 2008 around 150,000 Kim. I just love this car, great performance comfort, touring car. Don’t like run flat tyres. Servicing has been reasonable (thou not at authentic bmw dealers).
    Good luck👍🏻

  • realaaa on 28/08/2020 - 00:28
    +1

    can be done - just own this once you've made your decision

    I've done something similar (with another european brand) - and it was a joy to drive! but did give me more issues than a Japanese/Korean car would

    would I do it again? yeap

  • imurgod on 28/08/2020 - 07:59

    They are pretty unreliable and expensive to fix. I wouldn't touch it.

    I see a lot of people recommending Japanese as an alternative and they're right, but no Japanese car comes close to European.

    You'll need to stretch a bit more to get into a Euro though. Around $35K - 40K can get you into something decent with a bit of power and low km.

    Then you'll either need some mechanical know how and/or a trustworthy mechanic (not a dealership).

  • SydEng on 28/08/2020 - 09:24
    +1

    I've got a 2012 Bmw 320i F30 with 120kkms and honestly I can say its a fantastic car, amazing to drive. And most importantly unlike the rest of the server who jerk themselves over how BMWs break, absolutely nothing has gone wrong. The only costs I've incurred are the usual maintenance and tire costs.

    • Tooslow9394 on 04/09/2020 - 07:44

      Nothing wrong with the N20 engine (except stretched chains which can be fixed but at a cost), but they did fix most of the pain points with the revised B48 engine, which is a gem.

  • antonthenet on 28/08/2020 - 10:24

    I bought a BMW 318i 1995 Model in 2010 and the only issue I had with it was a leak in the aircon which was going to cost $3,000.00 to fix in 2018.

    Ran great. It had a good previous owner. Maybe that is the key.

  • balbags on 28/08/2020 - 10:35
    +2

    Owner of a F30 330i from new here.

    With any car that purchased as used, there WILL always be an element of “buying someone else’s problem”, whether they knew they had a problem or not.

    My gripe with BMW’s newer cars that perform Condition Based Servicing (CBS) – that is the car tells you when to do servicing – is that this method of maintenance ONLY ends up in tears. CBS is one of the marketing BS car manufacturers do to swindle people into “lower maintenance” costs. For example, my BMW suggested an oil change at a 30,000km interval (i.e. at 20,000km and 50,000km), however I think it would very difficult to find an oil technician or general mechanic that would correlate a long engine life with high interval oil changes.

    The point I am trying to make is that if you were to buy a new/used BMW that followed the CBS schedule then I think you are simply asking for trouble. Conversely if you purchased a used BMW that has been serviced beyond its minimum requirements (eg. Oil changes every 10,000km, like mine) and has been obviously treated well, then I think you’ll have a much better experience.

    The other problem we face with German cars is their spare parts costs in Australia. Dealerships are named stealer-ships for a good reason and all the brands apply. When (not if) your used BMW needs spare parts, make sure you’re sitting down because it’s going hurt the wallet and you’ll have to mortgage your kidneys to pay for it. Lexus is great at this as well, e.g. Control arms for an Lexus IS300, I once owned, was quoted at $750 (not installed) but I managed to get new ones out of Japan for $50 plus $200 for shipping (arrived faster than what Toyota could have done it in). Which leads me to my next point. If you have the time and patience, parts for BMWs can be directly sourced from around the world and far more cheaper than Aussie stealer-ships.

    Overall, the my BMW has been a great experience and I am consciously servicing it more than what the all-knowledgeable BMW masters tell me to do. I do have a friendly relationship with a non-BMW mechanic but he is my neighbour. If you like cars for all their mechanical features and have patience then sure go for it, but perhaps reconsider a 320d as they are your entry level cars with piss weak engines. I heard the 325/330 in that era were good.

    • TheMindsetTraveller on 28/08/2020 - 12:01
      +1

      My mate has a M3 and his air conditioner had a fault, dealer wants $1,600 fit and fitted. Jumped on the forums, bought a $5 part overseas and got it done himself.

      My mechanic bought a Cayenne Turbo (used $40k), he said it was loads of fun to drive but a headache to work on. Got rid of it a few months after.

      • knk on 28/08/2020 - 14:34

        was that a dash out kind of job?

        My older falcon had a similar issue and I got it done privately by an ex ford tech in the end. At Ford it was going to be something like $1k from memory to replace a part that was worth a couple bucks. Just a rod that changes the vents from hot / cold. They revised the design with a steel reinforced one in later models compared to the plastic one that broke after 5 years or so.

    • Tooslow9394 on 04/09/2020 - 07:40

      I swear CMS was designed as a profit centre for the dealer (what’s the 3 year prepaid servicing worth when it basically includes one oil change and one wiper blade replacement) and you’d only need to bring it in once during the novated lease term. Once it’s traded in , it’s the second owners problem.

    • Tooslow9394 on 04/09/2020 - 07:43

      330i only came in 2005/06. Like any euro cars ,absolutely avoid the first two model years. The 330i engine is actually available on the 125i coupe , where as the only inline 6 non turbo petrol only had the 2.5. It does tick when it’s very cold out (just annoying , doesn’t destroy the engine) and is specific to the 2.5.

  • mrhanky71 on 28/08/2020 - 10:53
    -1

    get a m2 mate

    • [Deactivated] on 28/08/2020 - 12:07

      Yes, because that's within his budget.

  • greencomet on 28/08/2020 - 10:58

    I wouldn't bother asking on here, if you take peoples advice on Ozbargain we'd all be driving a Camry. If a BMW is what you've always wanted then just get it, it'll cost what it costs to keep it running. Yes maintenance will be higher, but you'll be driving the car you've always wanted and not something someone else has told you to get. If it's clean, drives well, has a full service history and checks out with your mechanic (get it checked out), then just go for it.

  • Fobsessive on 28/08/2020 - 11:21

    Get an old Accord Euro and new coilovers for under 10k

  • Gowrie29 on 28/08/2020 - 12:00

    Some fairly average generalizations at the expense of females in this one. Disappointing to read.

  • Unsafe on 28/08/2020 - 12:33

    Look, I stopped reading after the first page. Sometimes it's hard to get facts on a forum…here they are. It'll last to 200,000km's, maybe a fair bit more, but at 200 you'll need a timing belt, which is a very, very expensive job. Up until that point, if it's had all of its servicing, it'll be as reliable as any other make. Parts are no more expensive than nissan spares. BMW's don't turn to lemons as soon as warranty expires & mechanics charge a high labour rate, regardless of brand. If you like the model, realistically, your purchase price will only get you approximately 50,000k's before you need to scrap it. Whether that's good or bad is up to you.

  • daddydirtsurfer on 28/08/2020 - 13:54
    -1

    It’s just a car.mcprolla is better for relaiblity.

  • JKM on 28/08/2020 - 15:05
    -1

    I have purchased two BMW's in the past.

    My first one was roughly the same as what you are looking at.

    I would NOT recommend this.

    The ks are too high which means that at this stage, some very costly things will need to be replacing around this time.

    We paid about $3k to have various things fixed and replaced. BIt of a pain in the butt for a car that cost $10k.

    My second BMW was purchased after trading in the first. It was only 3 years old, 38k kms and in excellent condition and we paid 30k for it. The owner sold it because she liked her Maserati better.

    I wouldn't mind spending $3k to fix things up on a $30k car. But not on a $10k piece of junk.

    It only died because I got cleaned up at an intersection and it was a write off. In that experience, I have to say that the BMW took a good beating and absolutely saved my ass. Sure, I broke my hand, collarbone and smashed a tooth but it could have been a lot worse. A hefty car that thing was.

    I drive an SUV now as I don't like to be so low on the ground these days.

    Anyway, you're much better off putting down a lot more money for a newer BMW. It's really not worth getting an older BMW that is basically near the end of its life.

    • Tooslow9394 on 04/09/2020 - 07:38
      -2

      Judging by this post, it’s quite clear you have never actually owned a BMW. You have no idea what you’re talking about.

      • JKM on 05/09/2020 - 13:43
        -1

        Sorry, you're right. I never actually owned a BMW. I owned two. But how would I have any idea what I'm talking about? I'm just a girl.

        • Tooslow9394 on 08/09/2020 - 13:49
          -1

          Both your post adds nothing to the discussion. Also judging by the IQ levels displayed with your posts, I don’t see how you can afford any car, let alone a bmw.

  • mrhanky71 on 28/08/2020 - 15:11

    I'm driving one a 320d atm but a 2011. I'm at 170,000 atm and im looking to get rid of it before the 200k mark after reading the timing belt comments.
    Thanks ozbargain
    Time to go back to a corolla or civic

    • Tooslow9394 on 04/09/2020 - 07:37
      -1

      See that’s the problem. Your car doesn’t have a timing belt. If you’re actually concerned you can have the timing chain tensioner replaced and have the chain inspected. Any competent euro mechanic can do this. Ozbargain and whirlpool would the last place on the Planet to seek auto mechanic and servicing advice.

  • bryce007 on 28/08/2020 - 16:10

    I'd go against the grain of others here and say go for an even higher km car. Seems everyone here is looking to dump their car around the 150-200km mark cause it's going to start costing them. It is true. Most costly issues for BMWs happen in this range so buying used can be a trap.
    If you go looking 200-240km second hand generally most of these issues have been sorted. (Last 3 BMWs in my family have had 230-250km on the clock when purchased). Obviously servicing is key, but there are some high km ones that are in way better condition than some flogged out out one with half the KMS and are real bargains.
    Despite what people say they don't magically die when they hit 200,000km. On my high km BMWs ive had no major issues, just routine servicing. One needed a new sump gasket, which is common for any car at that age.

    My thoughts are, the 20d is a crap engine. Get a higher km 330d with the m57 diesel, it's bullet proof. Our x5 has 330km on the clock with that engine and still runs like new, and it's never been opened up.

  • chinezejew on 28/08/2020 - 21:18

    Highly recommend a super Camry eg Lexus IS250 or IS350

    https://www.carsguide.com.au/cars-for-sale/D_11415985/LEXUS-…

    https://www.carsguide.com.au/cars-for-sale/D_11386730/LEXUS-…

    Go for a test drive.
    300thousand KM car a Camry would be [my 2008 camry is on 320thousand today]
    i guestimate 300+thousand KM car a Lexus IS would be easily achievable

  • Royalmarker59 on 28/08/2020 - 23:40

    Well I respect BMW is your personal choice

    When it comes to dollars Old Japanese machines are better than old german

    Japanese are reliable and less expensive to maintain and fix

    My brother in law brought a new Beamer and used for 3 years and selling it Before the warranty period ends

    End of the day cars are your personal choice but make a calculated choice though

  • Wallyt99 on 29/08/2020 - 08:52
    +1

    You could get a very nice Accord Euro for that money. Likely alot more reliable.

  • Blargman2001 on 29/08/2020 - 15:44

    I used to drive an e46 325Ci. Was great until about 130-140,000 k's/10 years old. I got rid of it at 200,000 k's. It still ran smooth as butter. It suffered from the usual plastics in the cooling system breaking at the 10 year mark, water pump failing and oil leaks at about 12 which are known issues. All those issues cost about $4.5k to fix all up.

    Your E90 is old enough now that most of the weakneses are known. If they haven't already been fixed in your car then be prepared to fix it yourself down the track. If you're happy to deal with that then go for it. Just remember it's an 11 year old car that's nearer the end of it's life than the start.

    • resisting the urge on 01/09/2020 - 12:09

      Cooling system plastics are supposed to be changed a lot before 10 years. Do the PCV at the same time, and DIY the pump, pipes and radiator before something fails, each item is around $100 and change the coolant every 2 years from thereon in.

      E90s fail in more areas (fueling, turbos, etc.), more of a big deal so people get ripped big time on them too.

    • Tooslow9394 on 04/09/2020 - 07:35

      Gaskets and waterpump replacement does not cost $4500 on a E46 325ci.

  • jakeau on 29/08/2020 - 16:44

    Go find a Lexus IS.

  • SF3 on 29/08/2020 - 23:11

    OP, your emotions are saying yes buy it, but your rational side says no.

    From most of the comments here, there is a high chance of buyers remorse (soon after) if you go through with the purchase, but you might be lucky if the car doesn’t break down on you.

  • tril3mma on 30/08/2020 - 00:23

    Here are 2 peices of advice from an older gentleman that I wish I've heard when I was in my 20s:

    Please, please, please reiterated in your mind that a car is a depreciating asset and an expense (fuel, insurance, repairs all adds up).

    Disassociate viewing a car as a status symbol for other people (not saying all German luxury car owners have this mind set)

    Avoid getting finance if possible.

    At the 10k price point, I highly recommend going for a reliable, fuel efficient and preferably Japanese car.

    At the end of the day if this car is going to bring joy to your life then look at your finances and go for it.

    Goodluck!

  • Tooslow9394 on 04/09/2020 - 07:31

    E90 320d are relatively trouble free. Common pain points are the soft touch plastic peeling, electric waterpump exploding (common to all euro makes, because they all come from Bosch), and the autoboxes are quite bad in this generation- exasperated by BS bmw marketing calling it lifetime fluids.

    I personally bought a one owner 07 E92 325i 6spd manual with 50,000kms two months ago (owner was 65+) and I’m loving every moment of it. A smooth rev happy inline 6 and a slick six speed manual is heaven, made better by a receipt ZHP weighted shift knob upgrade.

    To all the keyboard warriors and mechanics, maybe go and get a life?

    • Tooslow9394 on 04/09/2020 - 07:33

      TLDR : avoid autos , avoid 335i, avoid the POS 320i (every car I see burns oil).

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