• out of stock

JBL Link Subwoofer SW10 $100 Delivered (75% off) @ JBL Australia


Currently 75% off and free delivery seems like a good deal. Currently $399 at JB Hifi and Hardly Normal.

EDIT: Thanks to jominix for pointing out it’s only compatible with JBL Link Bars

The JBL SW10 powered wireless subwoofer adds impactful, deep bass to the JBL LINK BAR to create the ultimate immersive audio experience. Featuring a 10” woofer, tuned bass reflex enclosure and onboard 300-watt amplifier, the JBL SW10 delivers rich and thrilling bass without the hassle of wires. In order to provide flexible placement options, JBL has incorporated a downward firing design architecture making room location far less critical. The SW10 is the perfect add-on when you are looking for real JBL pro bass.

General Specifications
- Maximum Power 300W
- Standby Power Consumption <0.5W
- Woofer Size 1 x 10" (250mm)
- Frequency Response 35-120Hz
- Operating Temperature 0°C - 45°C
- 5.8G Wireless transmitter modulation GFSK
- 5.8G Wireless Frequency Range 5740MHz-5840MHz
- 5.8G Max Transmitting Power 8dBm

Dimensions (W x H x D)
12” x 16” x 12” (305mm x 440mm x 305mm)
27.2lbs (12.3kg)
Packaging Dimensions (W x H x D)
14” x 20” x 14” (360mm x 503mm x 360mm)
Packaging Weight (Gross)
29.8lbs (13.5kg)

Related Stores

JBL Australia
JBL Australia

closed Comments

  • +17 votes

    NOTE: This can only be paired with JBL Link bar.

    • +1 vote

      …which costs $600.

  • +1 vote

    Hmmm, nowhere does it state the actual wattage of the sub. Nor it's sensitivity. Or basically any real specs on it.

    • -1 vote

      Click specs - clearly says 300W Max

      • +10 votes

        And if you believe that, I have a bridge to sell you.

        There is a huge difference between Max and RMS.

        EDIT: Case in point, here is a "5600 watt" car amp. Total steal at $52.50


          There is a huge difference between Max and RMS.

          The difference is quite literally sqrt(2).

          • +4 votes

            @p1 ama: I'm not sure why the difference is literally 1.41421356237, but okay.

            The real difference is that the max number is a complete fabrication, if the speaker cannot continuously handle it, than it's a lie. Now more often than not I will see true audio brand not even advertise max numbers. More mainstream brands the max is usually just double the RMS. And then you have the shitty brands where the max is about equivalent to Chinese lumens, a complete fabrication.

            I suspect that the sub that OP linked has an output of 150wrms, BUT, the advertising says the AMP has a 300w output, not what the sub can take. Now I would ASSUME that the sub is matched to the amp, so I would hope the amp is putting out 150wrms at whatever impedance the sub is wired for, but I couldn't tell without pulling one apart. And without the sensitivity rating I wouldn't even begin to say how loud this sub actually gets.


    What's the best JBL soundbar to pair this with?


    Thoughts on JBL Link bar + this sub woofer vs JBL 5.1 bar?


    heres' the last thread:


    buy if you can hack the plate


      Is there a hack to pair it with open Bluetooth, or do you mean just replace the plate amp?

  • +1 vote

    I bought one from the previous deal for 350, JBHF, don’t buy them.
    The sound is good, but the functionality is garbage


      Can you elaborate what's wrong with the functionality? I'm interested to buy this and the soundbar.


        It has one job:

        "Thanks to jominix for pointing out it’s only compatible with JBL Link Bars"

        See tonyjzx's link for advice on hacking it. If you're getting the soundbar as well then not a problem.


        The subwoofer paired with the JBL Link Bar (the only bar it can be paired with, as mentioned above) sounds great. I'm in a unit so I barely go past 40% volume and the sub is on -2 bass.

        Inbuilt chromecast was constantly buffering a video I was casting from my laptop as well as sports streams on occasion. Tried with a standard chromecast and had no problems. The ARC is 50/50 if it decides to play audio when I watch digital tv. If not I have to switch between the Android TV interface and back to free to air, or worse turn the tv on and off again (insanely frustrating).

        I'm going to remove the HDMI and just use through optical at this stage. Turn this bar into a dumb bar.


          I've read somewhere that latest firmware have fixed most of the issues. Have you updated to the latest Android?


            @johnyBgood: Yeah it makes you update once you connect to your WiFi, I've only had it for 3 weeks, so maybe there's another update since then.

            Also reminded me that when I first set it up the sub wouldn't pair to the soundbar, had to take it back to jb hifi where they discovered there was an issue with the bar, replaced the bar and the sub.

            Has been quite an experience.

  • +1 vote

    Back in stock


      Thanks. Marked as active again.