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[eBay Plus] Global KING K-45 Whetstone 1000 $19.50 Global 2 Stage Sharpener $22.50 Victorinox Boning Knife $13.50 Shipped @ eBay

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Global KING K-45 Deluxe Water Whetstone 1000 Grit Stone Knife Sharpener Japan
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221251333791

Don't have one but should be much better than unbranded double side 1000/3000 ones.
Good for entry level.
My current 1000 one is SHAPTON.

Global 2 Stage Japanese Ceramic Minosharp Water Knife Sharpener Knives 79709
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/324653362440
could be cheapest ever, this and the 3 stage one is the only roller sharpener I would recommend for Global, or even for Shun if you don't want to use Whetstone

Victorinox Fibrox Curved Narrow Butcher Boning 15cm Knife 5.6601.15 RED
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/224010009315

This is enough for families, no need to spend $100 for Global and more expensive ones.

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closed Comments

  • Been wanting one of these for a while. Easy purchase for under $20.

  • +16

    I prefer that no knives are nearby when I am boning.

  • +3

    I can never get the angle right. I bought a sharpener from Ikea for $15, that always does the perfect angle and has 3 different polishing wheels.

    Seems to work well.

    https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/skaerande-knife-sharpener-black…

    • +5

      can use this to get right angle for global knives

      https://www.amazon.com.au/Global-463-Whetstone-Accessories-S…

      • ah cool. Thanks for that.,

      • +3

        They get scratched and damage the stone. I have them and wouldn't not recommend.

      • +2

        I was in a knife store in Japan and they sold these but the sales guy stopped me from buying it.
        He said you can't use those on Japanese knives because the angle is too steep and all knives have different edge angles.

        I think if you have Western style knives then it might be OK because they have a steeper edge. If you have an expensive knife (> $80), then I might also avoid this.

        I have also heard people say this thing wears out their whetstones faster.

        full disclosure: I have never used one. This is just what I have been told.

    • You might have the right angle but aren't doing it long or consistent enough. You're wearing away the metal just behind the actual edge. When you actually reach the edge that's when a new edge is forming = sharper.

    • -1

      You're not polishing with those wheels, you're grinding at three different grits.

    • I'm using the older model of the sharpener from https://hapstone.pro/sharpeners?product_id=246 with the set of stones from edge pro, works well for me.

  • +2

    Victorinox 21cm bread knife for $18.50 looks good too.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/224481223412?epid=22011030692&ha…

    • Good for slicing brisket

    • showing up as $38.50 for me, i see it was a tuesday deal :(

  • Shame i can't use my $50 ebayplus voucher in combination with these offers, i really need to use it before it expires :(

    • +1

      you can use the $50 ones for chemist warehouse etc. Make sure you use it for something you won't return.

    • Yeah my voucher expired before I could use it. They didn't want to reinstate it .

  • Signed up for ebayplus but getting an error saying can't use code on the 2 stage, any ideas?

    • +1

      try ebay app, if still not working, may need to chat with ebay support

  • Thanks Op, got the Global Sharpener!

    • It's pretty much crap. Better off with a honing rod

      • +1

        I have one of the global sharpeners and I agree it does not get very sharp. It get sharp enough to cut but it won't pass the paper cutting test.

      • +10

        except that honing rods aren't for sharpening.

        • what are they for then?

          • +1

            @ripprind: Interesting. Always keep learning something new😎

            https://www.thekitchn.com/did-you-know-this-steel-doesnt-act…

          • @ripprind: Removing burrs in the edge.

            Its similar to stropping for a razor, its to enable it to cut better but isn't necessarily creating a new edge.

          • +2

            @ripprind: As you use a knife, the sharp edge gets folded over/rolled to the side. The harder you are on your knives and the softer the metal the quicker this happens, especially if you're hitting bone or have hard chopping boards. The edge is still very sharp, it's just no longer pointing in the direction you're trying to cut. The honing rod doesn't remove any material from the knife like a sharpener does, it just straightens that rolled edge back out. It makes a big difference to the sharpness of the knife. Once you become comfortable using a honing rod, it's something you can use every day or two, and only takes a few strokes to straighten the edge.

            Eventually the knife edge will become dull and honing won't help, which is then time to use a sharpener.

  • My wife just bought a heap of global knives, is it easy enough to sharpen yourself or should I pay someone to do it? How often do they need sharpening? Any other maintenance tips?

    • +3

      get the global 2 stage sharpener, should be good enough for now until you decide to go down the pro sharpening techniques…

    • +2

      easy enough for doing it yourself.
      Just use either 2 Stage Sharpener or Whetstone/guide rails.

      For the shapener, it only takes less than 30 secs for shapener, and the angle is specifically designed for global knives
      MR Global has a demo video
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=timxVyO_-Nc

      For whetstone, it's a better option and have much less risk to scratch the knife body, but require more time/effort/skills.
      use guide rails to learn controlling the angle.
      you would also need a 3000 grit whetstone to pair with 1000 one in this deal

      guide rails link
      https://www.amazon.com.au/Global-463-Whetstone-Accessories-S…

      How often do they need sharpening?
      Every 3-6 months for my global set.
      Depends on how you use your knife, and what material your cutting board is made of.
      You should only use soft material cutting board, avoid hard surface like steel and bamboo.
      A few cut on steel board could dull the edge.
      Soft material example is soft wood like cypress, Rubber.
      Also avoid 90 degree chopping, try to slide with a smaller angle
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMqWt9bY4dI

      Any other maintenance tips?
      no dish washer, always clean and dry it after each use.

      • Thank you very much!

        What about the rod thing you see chefs use on TV?

        Any specific recommendations for chopping board?

        • Rod is good for realigning German knives which are made by softer metal.
          So you don't have to sharpen them often.
          But never use a rod for Japanese knives, it's not good for hard metal edge.
          Asahi rubber cutting board is good one, and Jiro Ono (Jiro Dreams of Sushi) also uses this brand.
          For wooden board, material is more important than brand.
          HINOKI Cypress, Ginkgo is good for cutting board.
          And other soft wood is also ok, you may want to touch it and feel the hardness.
          I prefer one piece of wood, rather than pieces glued.

        • Chefs on TV have no idea at all how to sharpen knives, they either pay someone to do it for them, buy a new knife, or just use dull knives.

          I've NEVER seen a TV chef do anything other than ruin a knife trying to sharpen it.

          I've personally known 5 pro chefs, none of them knew/know how to sharpen. One of them teaches commercial cookery to new chefs, and teaches them the wrong thing.

          • @Tunblor: I mean like actors in movies or whatever, who definitely don't know how to sharpen it. What is the rod thing they use on the knife, is that to sharpen it?

            • +1

              @bleeder: It's either a steel, or a sharpening rod. Terminology gets mixed up all time, but a steel, or honing rod is typically used to realign the edge, making the knife sharp again without removing metal. Good ones are very very smooth. They're traditionally used on western high carbon steel (low carbide, simple steels) knives that are relatively soft (well under 55HRC) but very tough. The rods that are grooved are a disaster, they tear your edge up, avoid at all costs.

              There are also sharpening rods, that look similar to a steel, but they're made of ceramic or are coated in abrasive diamond grit. These remove steel and sharpen. However, because they are round, there is only one tiny point making contact with the edge, so the pressure on the edge is enormous, unless you're being extremely careful, using unbelievably light pressure, and matching the bevel angle perfectly, you're almost certainly reducing sharpness and weakening your edge at best, ruining your edge at worst.

  • +1

    Disappointingly the OP is not KEB

  • +1

    Global 2 Stage Japanese Ceramic Minosharp Water Knife Sharpener works for the different brand knives as well??

    • -1

      No. Different angles and it's no good even for global knives. The one i had ended up in the bin

      • Thanks! almost order it.

    • +1

      someone used it for Shun and said works well.
      it should work well for other brand knives as long as similar edge angle around 15 degree.

      • I want to use for non-Japanese brand. Don't want to take a risk :(

        • Different story. Softer metals and broader angels of German or European knives are definitely not as well suited as the hard steel and more acute sharpening angel of Japanese knives.

        • +1

          I bought the 3 stage minosharp for my mundial knife set and it works a treat. The knives were failing to cut through tomato skin but after a couple of pass sets through each wheel, the knives are so sharp. (I did 15 passes through each wheel as one pass set)
          Now I have to be so careful when chopping!
          Tomato skins no issue anymore.

    • +1

      Hate to differ, but it works fine.

      Whilst it is designed to work at it's optimum on the 15 degree duel cutting edge of Global knives, other Japanese knives are typically sharpened at near identical angles. It works fine on the Shuns with their native 16% angle. In truth, even on a wet sharpening wheel, it's enitrely possible that you'll find variances of +/- 1 degree bases on marginal positioning changes to the angle of the pull and push strokes.

      Whilst they may not compare with a professional sharpener at work on his whetstone, Global Minosharps do a remarkable job for most Japanese knives and careful users.

  • Does anyone know if the boning knife is flex blade or rigid?

    • Boning knives are predominantly rigid, however you can also get ones that are more flexible.
      (not to be confused with a filleting knife).

  • some reviews on amazon complain about 10x radiation from the stones. Are they same brand?

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RIN9D8FQ9IM9C/ref…

  • +1

    Beware as the seller has an absolutely crap feedback rating on eBay. Read comments before you decide to buy

    • 98.3% positive?

      • +1

        That's not real sharp. excuse the pun, especially when a good percentage of the negative feedback is for items not being received.

  • +5

    I do a fair amount of whetstone sharpening and a 5cm wide stone will drive you nuts.
    Buy a wider stone if you plan on doing a decent job.

    • Got any recommendations for a good beginner stone? Been looking for something but not sure if I want to drop $80 on a Shapton Pro yet.

      • +1

        I get good results using the cheap fleabay stones. I use them on white steel core knives as well as stainless.
        https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stone-Knife-Sharpener-Waterstone…
        The notion that you have to spend big money on stones i think is nonsense. Some chefs i know use the back of a porcelain plate. I've also seen people using a red brick.

      • +3

        IMO a King 1000/6000 KW65, does a pretty good job, and is about $50

    • +1

      I am not sure which stone you are talking about but the King one is marked as 7.1cm wide. As the owner of 2 King whetstones and many other whetstones, I can say that the actual size is closer to 6.4cm. That is a very standard size for a whetstone. This is also the size for Shapton glass whetstones.

      The width of the whetstone is not going to affect the "job". It will make the process faster if that's what you mean.

      Depending on the technique you use, there are downsides to having a wider stone. If you use the sectional sharpening technique (technique recommended for beginners by most Japanese knife sellers/makers) then you definitely don't want a stone that is too wide. It will make it hard to sharpen smaller knives like a pairing knife.

      • +1

        6-6.4 i think is the sweet spot for a chef knife which should be the target knife. Narrow stone can cause more mistakes involving the edge of the stone coming into contact with the knife edge which is more likely if you are a beginner

        According the the ad

        "Features:

        The King Home Sharpening Stone is perfect for all kitchen knife sharpening.
        The grit of #1000 is a medium grade, which is perfect for medium finishing of quality knives.
        To prevent slippage the stone is attached to a plastic base.
        Dimensions: 18 x 5 x 1.5 cm
        Made in Japan
        Please note this stone is marketed under the "King" brand packaging."

        • "6-6.4 i think is the sweet spot" Yep totally agree with you.
          My bad I didn't see that.

          The ad also said:
          Dimensions
          Width 7.1cm

          No idea what's going on. I think this stone is 6.4cm if it's the same as my other King whetstones.

  • Beginner here; I want to start sharpening non Global knives.
    Do I get k-45 and guide Rails ($12amazon).
    And is the stone and guide rails all I need?

  • For boring victorian

  • +8

    Since a lot of people are looking at the whetstone I'll leave some tips here.

    • The King 1000 whetstone at this price is a great place to start.
    • You will also need to purchase a flattening stone to flatten your whetstone once in a while. (this is really important)
    • You don't need the guide tool. In fact, I wouldn't recommend it on expensive Japanese knives.

    For those who want to get a higher grit stone:

    • If you can't get your knife decently sharp at 1000 then you are not going to get it much sharper with higher grit.
    • The next grit I would recommend you get with this 1000 grit stone would be a 4000 - 6000 grit.
    • Grit above 2000 are often considered as polishing/finishing stones. They make the edge slightly more sharp but the higher grit you go, the less sharpening will happen. The very high grit stones are used for the finish/aesthetic. Hence polishing/finishing stones.
    • If you have a high grit stone I highly recommend one of these: https://www.amazon.com.au/Ultimate-Japanese-Kuniyoshi-Space-…
      (I prefer the white one). The finer stones will end up with metal particle embedded which will make your stone more coarse. This will help get it out.
    • Don't buy a set where you get 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, etc. That's just a waste of money.
    • excellent information, spot on.

  • +1

    Went down a whetstone rabbit hole and am very happy.
    I bought an unused Global MinoSharp a few weeks ago from an op shop for $5. I had no idea they were sold for as much as $64.50 (or RRP$115)

  • Joined eBay Plus for this deal. Can't beat the price!

  • +1

    The knife sharpening guy charges me $6 for a knife. If you are buying Global / some other more fancy Japanese knives, may as while pay someone to sharpen it if you don't know what you're doing, more than likely you will buy that rail / 2 stage sharpener, throw it out and or ruin something.

    • +2

      How sharp were your knives?
      Do you know how he sharpens it? (Does he use a belt sander or grinder?)
      How long does your knife stay sharp for?

      Seeing how he charges you $6. My guess is he uses something like a belt sander. I have seen guys with belt sanders in the back of their van going to restaurants offering to sharpen knives for cheap and none of the experienced chefs would go for it with their expensive knives for good reason.

      A good knife is one where the cutting edges is hard enough to keep it's sharpness but not so hard that it's brittle. You will often see sparks coming off the grinder/sander when they use it on your knife. Sure you will a razor sharp knife quickly but you have just made your knife edge too soft with all that heat generated (indicated by the sparks). All that hard earned money you spent in getting a knife that is perfectly quenched then tempered by the blacksmith is ruined.

      My guess is, your knife will probably lose it's initial sharpness within a week or two. If that doesn't happen and your knife guy uses a whetstone AND only charges you $6… mate you better leave your wife/husband and put a ring on that dude cause you ain't going to find another like him.

      • -1

        ….this is true, these knife sharpening services just grind the shit out of your expensive knives as if it were a utility blade.

      • I'm not saying the belt sander guy is doing a good job, or that they don't burn edges, but the presence of sparks does NOT automatically suggest that a lot of heat is being generated, the sparks actually carry a lot of heat away from the piece being ground.

  • is this suitable for Chef knife / fillet knife and maybe scissors?

    I'm a complete noob and my friend told me i absolutely need to get a stone. The other sharpeners i have just isn't doing the job

    Thanks

    • Yep you sure can but it takes quite a bit of practice. The difference between the chef knife and fillet knife and scissors is the angle of the edge. Also keep in mind that with scissors, one edge is flat.

  • Bought a Naniwa Chosera Ceramic stone 5 years ago, never looked back, it is pricey but you get what you pay for.

    • That's the one I want for next.
      So expensive though and rarely discounted.

  • Have a global knife set and one of them is slightly chipped.

    Will any of these product help fix?

    • +2

      Not 1000 grit, would need lower ones like 240 grit, 120-400 should be the range to fix chips depending on how big it is.

      • Chipped like this https://ibb.co/yP3j7rm

        The Global 2 Stage Japanese Ceramic Minosharp Water Knife Sharpener Knives 79709 definitely wouldn't help either?

        Thanks for the help

        • +1

          That wouldn't help.
          You would need to either buy a 200-400 grit one/watch youtube to fix yourself
          or get someone else to fix it.
          200-400 range is not required for normal sharpening.
          My 240 one only used once.

  • Thanks, picked up the global one

  • Can I only use this one to sharpen my knife or would I need something else that's coarser or finer? Thank you.

    • +1

      1000 is most common used one. You only need 1000 for most of time, plus a 3000 or 4000 to finsih. Coarser range is mainly for repairing eg fix chips.

  • Ordered the boning knife and the seller has shipped by sendle and not express post. Anyone else the same?

    • I had to complain saying no movement at all on tracking and they finally organised sendle to pick it up after a week since ordered. So turns out they just put a tracking but didn't actually send the item til I complained.

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