How Much Should I Pay for New Tyres?

Of course I know the cheap Chinese no-name stuff is a death trap, but obviously don't want to waste money. I also know you can find tyres new cheaper, but how much should the RRP be on a new standard sedan on road tyre from a known brand to not get junk while not getting ripped off?

Poll Options

  • 31
    Under $100
  • 50
    $100-$125
  • 31
    $125-$150
  • 6
    $150-$175
  • 23
    $175-$200
  • 277
    Over $200

Comments

  • +34

    Depend on how much you got on your savings account vs how much you value your life in wet conditions?

    By the way, what are we pricing? What size Tyers?

    • +1

      Couldn’t agree more with this!

    • +13

      Well, I couldn't agree less. There are perfectly good Korean tyres e.g. Hankook and Khumos, which do the job just fine and there are plenty of tests online which will back this up. As far as the rain is concerned, just slow down and it's a good time to stop being a hoon.

      I agree totally with the second part though, which is that you can't price tyres without knowing the size. If you live in a capital city (which it seems you do) and are looking at 15" tyres that aren't too low profile I would budget for around 90 to 110 each *based on a popular 2L car from some years ago running on steelies

      • +2

        Out of all the car collisions which occour in the rain I'd be willing to bet majority are not hoons or more to the point if OP is.

        That's like saying there's no need for good tyres, just don't do anything which will make you crash!

        • +3

          Speaking to highway patrol most of the serious accidents are hoons or P platers.

        • +3

          That's like saying there's no need for good tyres

          Actually what I'm saying is that good tyres can be had cheap, and the more expensive ones won't be much better if at all

          Out of all the car collisions which occour in the rain I'd be willing to bet majority are not hoons or more to the point if OP is

          If I was to define hoon, I'd be including impatient drivers and tail gaters, of which there are no shortages. Drop your speed 5-10km, leave a decent gap, and don't try to make up time and you won't have an accident wet or dry. The inability to see road markings in the wet is probably a worse problem than worrying about spending big on tyres. I'd probably add that before people spend more on tyres, they should get the wheel alignment and make sure their suspension is ok so that the car isn't jumping around when they hit the brakes hard. I don't know anyone that's serviced their suspension unless they failed their yearly inspection and were told they had to

        • Need to include distracted drivers looking at their phone.

        • +5

          Out of all the car collisions which occour in the rain I'd be willing to bet majority have nothing to do with stopping distance of the tyres. Most occur due to the poor visibilty and drivers don't get to slow down before a collision.

          Get some perspective people. Even the cheapest rubbish Chinese tyre will, using ABS and traction control, stop and corner FAR more safely than a top ranked tyre 40 years ago. Sure, quality tyres give you an extra safety margin but it is ridiculous to describe the cheapies as "death traps".

          • @derrida derider: +1.

            However direct stopping distance is one metric, the other is turning corners at speed in the wet. Many of the basement brands don't do this well. And I'm not talking just the SE Asian ones.

          • @derrida derider: Stopping distance is one factor of cheap tyres, the main problem is that lack of traction that causes increased stopping distance also accounts for cars losing traction on corners at speed.

            • @singlemalt72: Key words: at speed

              • +1

                @Jackson: At a speed at which an average tyre would still have traction, sure you need to drive to conditions and your vehicle, but why hamstring yourself with low-traction tyres? watch dashcam videos and see vehicles losing control under conditions a decent tyre would have no trouble with.

                • +1

                  @singlemalt72: A good tyre also grips quicker after the point at which traction is lost, especially nice when there is small smooth spot, oil on the road, or too much line white or blackout line paint as our linespeople are in the habit of slopping-out.

          • +1

            @derrida derider:

            Most occur due to the poor visibilty and drivers don't get to slow down before a collision.

            I think you mean most drivers don’t slow down in the wet to allow for increased stopping distance and reduced visibility.

            It’s not that they don’t get to slow down, it’s that they were travelling too fast in the first place.

      • Kumho is no longer Korean but Chinese-owned with most tyres made there now.

  • +17

    What sort of vehicle? Usually tyres for larger vehicles are more expensive than smaller vehicles.

  • +7

    What vehicle are the TYRES going to be fitted on to?

    • +5

      What sort of silly question is that? Tyres are universal fit /s

  • +4

    What size rims?

    • +12

      Can't you read? Standard sedans obviously come with 'standard' size rims! 🤣

      • +7

        My "standard" vehicle has 20" rims.

        • Have you got slicks or nobbies fitted on your BMX?

          • @smpantsonfire: Nails to ensure I can do rock climbing like the yanks can do.

        • +18

          You don't seem to realise that "Standard" cars all have different size tyres. A VW golf and a Toyota camry may or may not have the same size tyres. You need to look on the side of the tyre or on the inside of the drivers door and tell people what size your car has. Maybe something like 205/60 - 15.
          The answer to your question is probably not the cheapest but not the most expoensive either. For some cars this range is $50 - $200 and $100 is fine for others the range is $100 - 400.
          Always a good idea to mention what car you have with these sort of questions.

        • +1

          tires for a normal car everybody has

          Many people have different cars, different cars have different size rims, different width of tyres, and different size tyres, including standard and non standard.

          Different people drive in different conditions also.

          Why won't you answer the questions you've been asked a number of times OP?

          BTW it's spelled TYRES.

        • +3

          Ranges from 13" mounting diameter to 21" or so these days. All in varying widths, and with wildly varying prices. I'll never understand why people don't mention the size, and the car.

    • +1

      Standard sedan rims apparently, whatever the hell that may be lol

  • +10

    depends on your car somewhere in the region of $100-$250 per tyre.

  • +20

    Get the best ones that money allows for. 4 hands of tread connect your car to the road… there are a lot of things you can cheap out with regarding cars but tyre not one of them imo

    • +1

      This is the advice I always give.

    • +15

      But best for what? Longevity? grip? comfort?

      There is no such thing as a ‘best tyre’ unless you are considering the driving conditions, driver skill and vehicle type.

      • The best grip IMO. Safety first

        • +3

          The best grip is a big compromise on $. They’ll cost more and wear quicker meaning you’ll be up for more tyres again sooner. Plus, you don’t need the ‘best’ grip in a city runabout that never sees highway speeds. City speeds aren’t likely to get warm enough for tyres with the best grip to be super effective anyway.

          • @Euphemistic: Yeah that is true. I don't mean literally 'the best' as in go for high end track tyres. I mean more so that if given the choice of harder longer lasting tyres that aren't grippy but last and save $, and a tyre that is grippy in the wet with better stopping distances but cost more $ over the long run, I'd definitely get the grippy tyre.

          • +2

            @Euphemistic: Also, if you run out of grip on dry tarmac, the problem is not in the tires at all

            • +1

              @unwashed00: Exactly. I can’t believe how many people are saying they get wheelspin and understeer all the time in the wet. All that means is you aren’t driving to ge conditions.

              Admittedly, I just replaced some tyres because of their poor wet weather performance. But, I could drive to not wheelspin, I just enjoyed making it wheelspin from time to time. (RWD).

    • +3

      there are a lot of things you can cheap out with regarding cars

      I have been using canola oil instead of car oil in my sedan for years with no problems.
      It's how I can afford more expensive tyres

  • +1

    The answer depends on the tyre size - the price can vary from $150-600 for the same model tyre in different sizes.

    You should really ask 'what model of tyre has a good balance between safety / quality and value'?

  • Go to the MyCar website, tyres. From there put in your rego number and it will give you some tyre choices. Using the info such as rim size/width/aspect ratio ring other tyre places for prices. Major tyre retailers are pretty competitive with each other, so do some research.

    • +1

      Hi MyCar will match any price so take proof of price to them to get price match.
      I am in the country and find MyCar very good

      • I suggested MyCar for the OP as all they have to do is put in their rego number and the site will figure out the tyres suitable for them.

    • Prices & options online are significantly more expensive & limited than when I called them. I mean $300 difference.

  • +1

    You can get cheapies from the car wreckers regularly

    • +20

      I fear that OP would end up with four different size tyres.

      • +24

        I'm not worried as long as they are all standard.

  • +12

    tree fiddy
    .

  • What sort of driving do you do? How much los is in tour standard sedan? Are you an aggressive, defensive, slow or gentle driver? Wet weather or avoid it? Highway kms vs city kms?

    Long lasting, grippy, quiet or budget? I prefer long lasting with a leaning toward grip over noise.

  • +17

    You should pay the standard price

  • -3

    Get Australian made tyres

    • +20

      How would you do that when the last passenger car tyre manufacturer (Bridgestone) closed its Adelaide factory in 2010?

      • +17

        You’ll just need a bucket of rubber, some steel fibres and a can do attitude.

      • Just requires some nationalism spirit

        • +4

          Nationalism spirit…
          So are we talking more Fosters, or Bundaberg Rum?

    • +1

      homemade?

  • +14

    I got cheap ass 99 buck tyres last year. They are complete shit they spin in the wet/squeel= horrid. I just upgraded to a Dunlop which was on special at mycar ~149 its like chalk and cheese. I'll never go 99 bucks again.

    • +3

      I got 4 new $80 tyres last year. They looked like the fake tyres you'd have on a kid's toy car and skid like them too in the rain. The irony is that my old tyres were running low on tread yet never skid.

      • Yea tight ass people making wrong decision, but good you realised.

    • Sounds like fun 🥳

  • +20

    Op Put some effort in if you actually want an answer.

    Go outside and look at your car tyre and come back and post the size.

    Standard is not a size…

    If you don’t know how to read the tyre size google it…
    Dead simple to do.

    • +7

      OP probably calls his wife to change their tyre..

      • Nah it's worst than that. OP is the type of person that uses the air tyre pump to fill up their gas tank at a petrol station.

  • I paid $400 for a 4WD, 33" mud tire. My daily driver (AWD) is $250 per tire when I get them during the 4 for 3 sales. Sport tires, good quality, great grip, good in wet weather and safe.

    It all depends on how you drive, where you drive, the type of car, the road, doing burnouts or not etc.
    ** Check (online) if the tire specs match your driving style and environment **.

  • +7

    What did you find doing your own research before posting a pointless thread with no info, is it that hard to call a couple tyre shops and ask what is the best for your standard sedan 🤦‍♂️

    • +2

      Because this is what allot of people do now days with regards to no idea how to use google, but they do know how to ask on Oz bargain.

    • He would only need to go to one tyre shop.

      The standard one.

  • I don't drive a lot so I want quality tyres. As they last tlongeer over time.

  • +1

    Price is not always an indicator of quality. I was able to get Serenity Plus on a 3/4 deal. I rate them highly so far and would recommend them.

    • I had the Serenity Plus and it was terrible in the wet. Constant wheel spin at any throttle when taking off on a slight incline in the wet. Absolute trash tyre. Got P Zeros and it’s actually night and day.

      • Ah really. Exact opposite from me.

        I just upgraded from P Zero's and had constant wheel spin as well, plus the drone was awful. Trash tyres in my case and I wasn't even thrashing it. Regular alignments, no hard driving and correct inflation.

        So far so good for me on the Turanza's. If I do have problems I may consider a Continental option.

        • This is why you can’t trust anyone’s recommendations on the internet. The tyres they think are awesome may not suit your driving conditions.

          Objective, measurable, repeatable testing back to back may yield some decent information but pretty much all seat of the pants results are so variable it’s not funny.

          • @Euphemistic: Most definitely. Even when the OEMs choose tyres, they are selecting based on criteria such as cost, availability of supply, relationship as well as performance. As such, they may not choose the best tyre for your car even brand new.

        • +1

          That is very surprising, maybe mine were too old as the tyres were already on the car I bought.

          I do hear good things about Continental.

  • +3

    Costco tyre range from $150 to $250 with regular buy 3 get the 4th free.

  • 3rd cheapest. Or whatever is reasonable with a KM warranty that doesn't make you jump through too many hoops. These days I prefer van rated tyres if they are available (for a normal commuter vehicle). There are even some good Australian companies that make modern retreads, which I also rate quite highly.

  • It depends too on how much power your 'standard sedan' has!

    You may want to spend a little more if you have a Tesla Plaid S over say a Toyota Camry

  • +1

    standard forum post…. wait for the rest of the details in the follow up post

  • $500 per tyre. Definitely $500 per tyre if you value your passengers' lives.
    Mate there's a world of difference between say a Bridgestone Potenza (cheap for its type) and an old crossply retread. Without knowing the vehicle and the type of driving you do, no-one can reasonably answer your question.

    • +1

      $500 per tyre.

      Higher cost doesn't mean better.

      Definitely $500 per tyre if you value your passengers' lives

      What if I don't value their lives, can I spend less?

      What about my life? Do I only buy tyres for my passengers? What about other road users and pedestrians?

  • +4

    My method of selecting and buying tyres is quite simple.

    Step 1)
    Read the latest couple of Wheels tyres reviews.
    2020: https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/wheels-tyre-test
    2018: https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/2018-wheels-tyre-test-w…

    Note: Motor magazine tests performance tyres in the odd years.

    I personally select the highest rated tyre with the lowest road noise, happily that was the winner of the 2020 test and I ended up with Continental PremiumContact 6.

    Step 2)
    Use TyreSales and ring around a few local shops to get the lowest supply, fit, balance and alignment quote.

    https://www.tyresales.com.au/

    If your car hasn't had an alignment for >2 years, I would recommend having one done.

    Tyres are the single most important safety component of the 1-2 tonne lump of metal you put your family in. It is one thing to find a bargain (the cheapest PremiumContact 6 you can find), it's another to skimp and put the cheapest BlueStreak or other black round thing on your car.
    My family will thank you too, when you don't skid off and hit us in the wet.

  • At the very minimum OP needs to mention vehicle. As such, I would suggest you get retreads. One thing not to go cheap on is tyres.

  • +7

    “My car is painted blue. What tyres should I get for it?”

    • +2

      Blue of course. Now I just happen to have a set of 4 going cheap ….

    • I recommend round shaped ones.

  • Always find buy 3 get 1 deal for big brand. Just changed my forester tyres yesterday, spent 650 for 4 yokuhama bluearth ae61 plus wheel aligbment.

    • What store was this from if you don’t mind? I’m looking to get new tyres on my MY20 Forester

      • Bob Jane. They always have different brand on buy 3 get 1 free deal. As I do not care about the brand actually so I always choose the tyres on special.

  • Michelin pilot sport cup 2 R. Replace the rims and cut your guards until you can fit the largest diameter available

  • Go to online tyre dealers (Goodyear, bobjane, mycar etc) and get an idea on low-high price for tyres then compare the price something in the middle.

  • Get a new tread cutter from Banggood. Seriously in the 1960's they used to have such a thing to cut deeper grooves until you hit the metal.
    Whitewall tires will definately turn more heads!

  • +4

    The cost difference between 4 rubbish tyres and something decent is a few hundred dollars.
    Why would you spend $400 for rubbish that are near useless in the wet compared to $600-800 for something that works well in all conditions.

    I don't have a car anymore but when I did I would buy above average tyres at around $800-1000 a set with the wheel alignment.
    I only once brought cheap tyres for a car I was about to sell, they were terrible in the dry and life treating in the wet.

    I Know people who are happy to save $200 on tyres and then will buy a couple of takeaway coffees everyday at $70 a week, I don't understand the logic of it.

    • I recently swapped out my tyre to good quality tyres and it’s actually night and day in the wet. I had cheap tyres on from the previous owner and had finally gotten so sick of them spinning and under steering in the wet. Seriously will never get cheap tyres ever again. What’s even the point of getting something that doesn’t do the job properly, especially when your life is at stake.

    • I don't understand the logic of it.

      You can't drink tyres.

  • +6

    Standard sedan tyres

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