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Creality3D Ender 3 V2 3D Printer $295.96 ($288.56 eBay Plus) Delivered @ Floralivings eBay

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This price is back once again. Not bad for an entry level workhorse.

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  • +1

    60$ more for including BL touch.

    • +2

      Not that necessary if you get the good springs for the bed, which last for months after relevelling

      • +2

        Auto levelling is still better..
        does not matter about the springs since it can become not as level after each print.

        • +2

          Agree with you. No bed on a domestic printer is going to be perfectly flat - they will all be warped and as they heat up they will not expand consistently. The BL-Touch does compensate for some of that warping, especially if you select a larger number of test points. Having said that, you can get pretty close manually. I just find it easier with the BL.

      • The beds can be the issue straight from the box. Common to find it warped or with dips. Only reason I'd say is to have one installed after you get your best tram

    • +1

      agree not really necessary anymore, now that manual mesh levelling is commonplace (e.g. get jyer's firmware). just need to do it once every few months.

      • Automatically leveling is far more “first time user” friendly.

        • if the default firmware ships with it, yes.

  • Can anyone with one of these recommend the first few things you'd need to actually use it successfully?

    I read last time a bed leveler was pretty good to have?

    • Quality filament, slicer settings, correct setup, testing, tweaking, experience

    • New bed springs, and metal extruder

      The rest of the cost is time and filament.

    • I've had one for a few months, the only extra I bought was bed levelling springs. Able to consistently churn out decent prints now and haven't levelled the bed in weeks.

    • +2

      Make sure to install and tighten all belts and th roller wheels appropriate (some roller wheels may need to be loosened.)
      Level the x gantry against the bed, this is very important. You don't need stiffer springs for bed (mine hasn't moved d after 500ish hours of printing, shown by a sticker marker on the wheel).
      Check and tighten the bowden tube coupling.

      To buy:
      Dual gear extruder (less than $20), best and only upgrade you really need.

  • +4

    I own 3 enders.

    Prepare to spend just as much in upgrades to make it reliable and consistent.

    In retrospect it would have been better to get a Prusa and not waste so much time.

    • I second this. As an Ender 3 user, CR 6 SE, 2x Prusa i3 MK3S, 1x Prusa Mini, 1x TEVO Tarantula owner, I think the construction and optimisation from Creality is far behind the Prusa.
      I started my 3D Printing journey back in 2017 and I am not so long into this industry. In my opinion, linear rail is not compulsory, but a smooth rod is much better than those rubber roller construction - the smooth rod option can print faster and give you fewer issues later on.
      I understand Prusa charges a lot more, but if you are a newbie and want to start printing and less steep learning curve, I would personally recommend Prusa Mini; they are a bit expensive and smaller in size, but you can get it assembled 90% model, without paying import GST or duty etc.

      Ender 3/v2/SE still has its shares on the market, but you do need more tinkering.

      • tinkering and modding is part of the learning process of 3D printing

        even prusa users have issues with their printers
        https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/

        when encountering some problem most prusa users do not know as much due to not tinkering or modding their printers..
        but the tinkerers would more likely know how to fix their own problems.

        • Fair enough, and I agree with you.

          I went through a long journey with my TEVO Tarantula before I got my first Prusa, and I have to say you don't need to suffer all the problems at the beginning of the 3D Printing journey.

          My TEVO runs on custom firmware (SKR board), and the whole journey dealing with hotend, vibration/frame design issues should have been avoided by getting a better quality printer.

          From my experience, the Prusa is much more suited for beginners and people without prior experience. I got my Prusa after I completed my TEVO printer trust me the overall investment on time, even finding quality parts, is much much more than a 1x Prusa printer. The support is also not as good as Prusa for TEVO printers back in the days.

          You cannot compare the skillset by simply going to Reddit IMO.
          You will learn a lot by assembling a 3D Printer with a kit from Prusa, but there is no simple solution for everyone - money, experience, and even time investments. The structure and the quality of parts mean a lot if you need to run a class or printing farm. You cannot simply fail your lesson in front of the kids like me. There were carbon fibre parts for Tarantula, and that's way to far to fix a cheaply made printer with design issues.

          TLDR: buy Ender 3 and upgrade later. :-) It fits a certain market but I am just talking based on my experience.
          As an educator and not a salesperson for any company, I think this printer suits the needs of more experienced people who love tinkering and fixing issues.
          I would also recommend Prusa copy, sorry Prusa, due to its printer structures and designs, if budget is an issue.

        • I agree. My first printer was an ANET A8 - makes the creality look like a refined experience. Most of my prints, were mods for the printer itself. Now i dont have that ammount of time so I got a prusa to spend more time printing and less time tinkering, but having the understanding has been helpful.

          I think if the Bambu Labs printer takes off, it will be even more plug and play.

    • +1

      I rather get 3 different ender or other brand models with different bed sizes than 1 prusa..
      also can have each printer function as different filament printers without needing to swap filaments..

      or sub one of the ender printers for a resin printer etc..

    • +1

      I would say reliability is quite good with the ender 3 v2, and upgrades are definitely optional. If you want it to be like a prusa, then sure you'll have to upgrade parts, but that's not the class it's trying to be in.

      How are you using yours to need "Prusa quality"?

    • This is it. Incredible value printer but there is an often ignored barrier to entry.
      I see many posts reccomending Ender 3 V2 as a beginner printer and wonder if some very novice buyers never get a decent print.

    • Got Ender. Prints OK for a while then weren't. Bed warped.

      Ordered glass bed and BL Touch.

      Installed glass bed, perfect prints ever since.

      BL Touch still in box.

  • +1

    Do yourself a favour and get an Ender 3 S1 if you're set on the Ender lineup… Worth it in comparison to spending hundreds on upgrades/parts for this one.

    • Hundreds? Is this for people who are selling prints or something? All I've spent on mine is $10 for better springs.

      • Consistency, quality, longevity. Able to be consistent over many different filament types and brands, as well as ease-of-use and minimal changes per print is what it's mostly about. For a LOT of the people with a creality printer, the quality control is (profanity) horrible and inconsistent. Soooo many cases of warped beds, difficulty printing anything consistently, failing parts etc etc. For a whole lot of people this is completely fine as well, including yourself obviously. But for those who want to avoid any trouble, it's probably best upgrading parts or buying a better printer from the getgo.

    • +1

      Yep, I have had an S1 for about 3 weeks and it is reliable, consistent and easy to use.

  • +2

    Love this when it's working.. My ender is such a nightmare to get level

  • Noob question, are 3D printers just impulse buy or you can use them on a regular basis and if yes to the second point, for what purpose most of you people use it.

    • I use mine constantly for functional prints around the house or printing replacement parts. It's good for all sorts of custom hooks and holders, smart speaker stands, diy tools and organisers. Printed off replacement clamp handles and featherboards, diy wire strippers with a 3D printer and a razor blade. I usually just ask myself before i buy something if I can print it instead and if I can and it'd be cheaper than buying I do.

      You really just need to know how to search for what you want if you don't want to learn design and run it through a slicer to prepare the print.

      • Thanks are DIY hooks sturdy enough for heavy loads ?

        • So long as your orient them and print them in a way that the downward force won't split it at a print layer they are very strong. Here's a recent video comparing printed/wooden hooks https://youtu.be/chCmwSdQzcE?t=808

          If they're screwed in they won't go far, double sided tape will fail before the hooks ever do. I like to buy TISKEN suction cups from IKEA and you can remove the hook that comes with and insert a custom one for holding whatever you want.

    • I've had mine for a few years now and keep being amazed as just how many things I find I can use. As well as toys for the kids, battery holders, and brackets, I also replaced some missing wheel nut covers on my car.

      Have a look through websites like Thingiverse.com or Printables. You'll get some ideas of how useful it can be.

  • Bought the resin printer, didn't realise it wasn't for functional parts (unless using expensive specific resin)
    So bought this aswell… guess I'll have some busy nights ahead.
    Any suggestion on filament to buy?

    • Any generic PLA should do for most functional parts. Once you give that a good go or run into any issues, then it might we be worth considering something like ABS or PETG. Depends on use case.

  • i got my Ender 3 S1 mid May and its been on 24hrs basically except for an hour when I had to turn it off to clear a blocked nozzle. 90% perfect prints and only a handful of failed. Now looking for another, will only go direct drive and dual Z axis support. Hope i can find another one on sale, maybe EOFY sale.

    • Out of curiosity, why are you going for direct drive and dual Z support? I used to have access to a Prusa Mk3, but now have bought the ender in this deal for myself.

      • +1

        Direct drive - generally just better and less issues with FEP tubing problems, and is better for TPU. Dual axis.. I guess is generally better and more reliable, less strain on the vertical axis? I dunno - just making this part up as I type.

        But I have the v2 and the s1 - and yeah, definitely would go the S1 over the v2 again simply because it's got a lot of the upgrades out of the box, plus it's much easier to assemble. I love my v2, it's super reliable but my next will be the s1 pro with the all metal extruder

        • Cool, thanks. Good to know. Feel like I'm heading into the trenches with a budget printer. A lot of mixed reactions to the ender series, so it's good to hear from people with experience with them.

          • +1

            @mett139: The two biggest things I did to my v2: New springs (very cheap) and a PEI magnetic bed. I know many people swear by the stock glass beds, but I can tell you that they can be hit and miss as I've had two different v2s with two very different stock beds.

            The magnetic PEI bed makes adhesion a breeze, and also make it extremely easy to get prints off. The springs have kept it solid and levelled, and I've only relevelled after having to move the printer in and out of my office several times due to rain issues in Feb getting into the house. Apart from that it's been a really good printer. In fact I'm printing something on it right now as I couldn't be bothered getting my s1 set up!

            • @Rockah: Thanks for the tips! I already have some springs on hand I may use if needed. I am a bit nervous about the glass bed, since the PEI magnetic bed on the prusa was one of the best parts. I also opted for the BL touch addon, since auto-levelling is a must for me. We used to have some UP 2/BOX printers and they just sucked to tune (after the students got their hands on them).

              It does sound like a lot of the community concerns for the ender might be coming from the inexperienced or those who have access to better machines. From you, I feel like for people who get it should be OK, so that's great. Mine should arrive in a day or so, so I'm getting excited now.

              We have a farm of Flashforge printers on campus, but I need a work-horse at home for prototyping or when working remotely. Sounds like the ender 3 v2 will fit the bill.

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