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Ionmax ION610 Dessicant Dehumidifier $279 Delivered @ Appliances Online eBay

520
HOMSNS

Decent Desiccant Dehumidifier back to regular price with current eBay coupon "homsns"
sold by Appliances Online.

Product Description: Ionmax ION610
Breathe easily with Ionmax ION610 desiccant dehumidifiers. Remove 6L of moisture per day. No mould. No stuffy air. CHOICE Recommended. 2 years warranty.
Coverage area: 15 - 25sqm
Power consumption: 280 - 460W

The listing price is $299 but with above mention, eBay code will discount another $20,

current eBay plus coupon: Spend & Save on Eligible Home Items "homsns"

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closed Comments

  • +17

    I bought this 2 months ago directly from Appliances Online.

    It works, but slow compared to my Rowenta compressor dehumidifier. Can only removes up to 6L/day.

    Also note that this costs more to run than a compressor dehumidifier. With temperature on the way up (until next winter), best to get a decent compressor one if you don't already have one.

    • Whats the rated capacity for you Rowenta compressor dehumidifier? So claim of Dessicant Dehumidifier works way better than compressor is not that practical in real life test.

      • +3

        Desiccant is only useful if temperature is very low (like less than 15 Celcius). For higher temp, I recommend to use a compressor. Compressor dehumidifier is cheaper usually.

        I know online says under 20 degrees, desiccant is better. But with my real life usage, even at 15, my compressor still outperforms. Can't say what happens below 15. At my place in Syd, temp never goes below that.

        You do need a decent compressor model though. I bought the Rowenta 4 or 5 years ago. Its rated capacity is 16L/day (also note that compressor model usually has higher rated capacity than desiccant; mainly due to the difference in technology)

        • +8

          It depends where you are. I'm in Melbourne and have had both - desiccant worked much better in the winter time as it's cold. The compressor one didn't do anything at all. During summer it's dry so I don't need to use it at all. I believe if you are in Brisbane or tropics then a compressor one is much better. Horses for courses

          • +1

            @jh084: Desicant for winter! Yeah baby.

        • +4

          Choice testing somewhat disagrees with your assessment

          We tested a good desiccant and a good refrigeration model in identical hot humid conditions (30°C and 80% relative humidity) and found that both performed to their rated water removal rates.

          The desiccant model performed much the same as it did in cold conditions. The refrigeration model, which had performed relatively poorly in cold conditions, performed very well in hot conditions – on average, it extracted more than four times as much water in hot conditions as it did in cold conditions.

          This shows that both desiccant and refrigeration dehumidifiers can do the job in hot humid conditions. But desiccant models rarely exceed a rated extraction rate of 10L/day, while you can find refrigeration models rated up to 30L/day or more. So for heavy-duty dehumidification in hot conditions, a refrigeration model would be the best option.

          https://www.choice.com.au/home-and-living/cooling/dehumidifi…

          So if your climate has wet periods in both summer and winter and you're only going to buy one, or also have an air conditioner that can dehumidify then a dessicant model is probably the better choice as it works both summer and winter.

          • @Subada: Are you really going to run a heating unit in a room thats 30°C just to remove some moist in the air?

            • @PandaInPants: The heat from this unit isn't that noticeable unless in a very small space tbh.

              • +1

                @Subada: What I am trying to say, you would just turn on aircon in such condition rather than using a dehumidifier, wish someone I could borrow a desiccant to see how it performs differently from my compressor one.

    • +4

      Please read a full comparison between compressor and desiccant dehumidifiers and don't just make a decision based on totomvn's comment above.

    • +4

      In my experience, desiccant dehumidifiers are a god-send.

      I found a compressor based dehumidifier is only effective when the temp was over 25c, which generally means I needed to warm the room up to that temp. As I tend to use these things in winter, the total cost was very high as I needed to first warm the room (usually +10c more). Even if the room didn’t require pre-heating, in my case the desiccant dehumidifiers was more cost effective looking at the kW/h rate, and amount of water extracted.

      Also, was best to get over 2-3 years from a compressor before the unit parked itself.

      These days I'm using an Ionmax ION632. I could easy do 10L/day and can bring a room down to ~45% RH @ 18c, thats something the compressor couldn't get near. As my unit is 3 years old, the thing has already paid for itself.

      Every room, subfloor, roof space, outdoors, shed etc has an Aqara temperature and humidity sensor which is hooked into OpenHAB home automation. Everything is captured and graphed via Grafana. I have years’ worth of data. It’s very easy for me to see how effective each unit is, especially when taking into account the power consumption.

      • +1

        How many kwh/day does the ion632 rack up?

        Am considering buying one as my house is stupidly high at 70% under 18degrees

        • +1

          About 740W on high. 420W on low. We only run high.

          Generally, the indoors RH is about 5-10% lower than the RH outside (as we keep windows open even in winter to allow for air recycling). When we run the unit, the windows will remain closed for the rest of the day.

          In my experience RH usually gets out of range in the morning on rainy days, where we hit 80% or more (@ 12c). Running this for 2 or 4 hrs (average size bedroom) will raise the temp by a few c (say 12c to 15c), but RH will go from 85% to say 55%, which is kind of insane considering the amount of water vapor that can be held at those temps. Remember the R in RH is for relative, relative to temperature.

          My parents used to just turn on a heater and look at their LCD Temp/RH screen and see the RH lower thinking they were removing water vapor from the air.
          Took me a few explanations before they understood that the higher the temp, the more water vapor could be stored in the air. As soon as the temp returned back to normal, the RH would rise.

          This picture shows this concept well:

          (https://www.linseis.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Relative-…)

          I should also add that we have a ducted air conditioner with a dry mode. This is a similar concept to the compressor dehumidifiers, but for this to make any meaningful difference I first need to warm the house to about 22c and then flip to Dry mode. The compressor will kick in every now and then, but after the temp drops sub 20c the unit stop functioning (compressor or fan). So, I then need to raise the temp and repeat the process. The unit has WiFi but there is no integration with home automation software. In any case the unit is 16Kw and not that useful as a dehumidifier on its own. But if I’m already heating the home, flipping to dry isn’t that expensive, but I don’t really know as the datasheet doesn’t give usage values for Dry mode.

      • +1

        I run an ION632 in my bathroom during winter to help get the humidity out. Your setup sounds interesting. Do you have the ION632 dehumidifiers in the roof space and subfloor?

        Wondering if I should invest in another ION632 to help other potentially humid area of the home especially during the downpours we have experienced lately

        • +2

          No unit in the subfloor or roof (I’m sure the unit would fail in those hostile conditions in no time). The subfloor has vents to allow for large amount of air movement. This is something I've added over the years. The eaves are open. Being so open, anything I did to alter the atmosphere would be in vain. I would have just as much success as trying to alter the planets air.

          High RH or low temps isn't a major issue if the air was being recycled often (if mold was your primary concern). Looking at my data (last 3 years), my RH topped out at 90% at about 10C Winter. And this would include those periods when it bucketed down for days in Sydney. Summer values are 23C and 70% RH. I don’t like going under the house. It’s not that its wet, it’s just a bit too humid. But the home is 1940’s and it’s still perfect with no movement or cracks (they don't make em like that anymore), so I’m reluctant to make any significant changes I suspect its happy with the earth. All I did was install more vents to move a bit more air around. This stabilized the data a bit and kept the earth a little more dryer.

          • @mrhugo: I live in an old house from the 40s too with a tiled terracotta roof. We had some mold problems in two rooms. I am thinking due to not opening windows enough, we only recently noticed how much condensation there was on the windows, as we usually just have the blinds closed, and also the bathroom vents directly to the roof space.

            Do you have whirly birds / do you find them effective? We have an unsarked roof, so not sure how effective they would be, but the roofer we spoke to suggested we should install them

            • @jar-unit: Our roof is terracotta as well. The eaves are open (cladding/gapped). We don't have sarking, which is a problem when the rain's heavy and windy. If the rain almost falls horizontally and enters the roof space. It basically just elevates the humidity to high 90's%.

              Condensation is a big issue for us on most windows, I think mostly south side windows. Each morning I need to remove the condensation. I use a cheap bath towel I got from Kmart and just hang it outside to dry. I might wash it once a fortnight. The blinds (blackout) are also down and all windows closed in the night. Our bathroom vents into the roof space (which is basically atmosphere as the roof is so open, eaves, no sarking). This all relates to winter.

              We don’t have any type of whirlybirds. But as the eaves are open the air flow up there is quite high (as we have so much crap, small leaves, bits of tree seeds up there).

              Once the roof is replaced I suspect air flow will drop, and temps will rise due the sarking. I’m still in two minds if I get whirlybirds, or electrical dome ones, and how many.

              In my opinion I don’t think the installation of whirlybirds will translate into a reduction of mould within the living rooms or a reduction of condensation. Having the roof a few % or C one way or another isn’t going to make a difference in the living areas, even less if you have insulation. I guess if you had sarking a closed roof just becomes a big hot air area in summer, so things like whirlybirds are needed.

              Try (you must) to remove the water on the windows in the morning. Also check behind the blinds (outside facing). Left over mould spores will continue to grow. Mould doesn’t need to be green, it can almost look like dust/dirt or spots on a blind or windowsill.

              Try double strength vinegar first, but I’ve found that something like “Mould Away/Killer” Coles/WW, works better…it just stinks and wear gloves. The trick is to get the mould spores, those are basically the seeds of mould. In my experience, vinegar works, but not that effective against mould spores, mould away is highly effective, but you need to be cautious when using it, and I’ve never used bleach (but heard its not great at the spores).

              All of this is a pain, checking each window each morning, wiping them down. But if I was to leave the water to pool and evaporate over the day it would just become a breading ground for mould.

    • +1

      I have the 610 and found it to be an absolute weapon. It easily filled up it's tank within a day on more humid days.

      I do live in a cold climate so that's a factor.

      My only criticism is even on the low setting, the fan is too noticeable to leave it on while sleeping.

  • +1

    Thanks op
    Checked appliances online and they were offering same listing price ($299) but also with $20 discount coupon code if signed up via email.

    Bought direct with delivery expected tomorrow rather than going through eBay’s process

    • +1

      this was helpful. For some reason, the eBay listing says they do not deliver to Canberra… So contacted AO directly, took a bit of chatting, but the online chat guy eventually gave me a unique link with the discount.

      Re: compressor vs dessicant, did bit of research long time ago, Canberra's cold climate, dessicant is a no brainer

      • 👍 I got the pop up sign up link using incognito browser so next time you should be able to do that without needing to speak to someone :)

      • How big was the discount after chatting with them? They seem to not be able to match eBay's discount. Are you able to upload a receipt?

        • $20 discount which makes it the same price as this ($279 delivered)
          Use this code OP-5SNJ5YQ9

  • +1

    I have this too, on low speed, small room, it's very convenient. Drops the humidity to reasonable levels around 55% in just minutes. Also, raises the room temp 1-2 degrees which is a plus in winters.

    Totally not suitable for summers, it might be very inefficient. You may use your split AC to do the dry mode job. Don't really have to buy the compressor, it is noisy, heavy, and power hungry.

    Ion610 is on for weeks, it's a small beast. Very good for small rooms. Not good for a big area, use the high speed in a big area. Then it becomes very noisy and uses twice the power as low speed..

  • +1

    I have this unit and i use the drain pipe. For some reason it fills up the tank, machine stops because it is full and nothing comes out of the drain pipe. My machine is placed high up and elevated into a big tank.

    I had to tilt it at an angle for some success. Just wondering if anyone else has the same problem. They should have made it so anything excess goes into the drain pipe hole.

    Other than that it works great.

  • Got one of these last year (paid $317).

    Works well in all temperatures.

    Also have a compressor dehumidifier, which is only good in warm weather.

  • +2

    Buy this and a humidifier and let them fight to the death.

    • +4

      humidifier will lose when its water ran out, except if you manage to put the pipe from dehumidifier to humidifier.

  • Not good efficiency looking at techs pecs, recommended Breville

  • +1

    This one or the ausclimate for $509?
    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/716112

    • +3

      Based on description this one is designed for Coverage area: 15 - 25sqm, 6L capacity
      Ausclimate is designed for coverage area up to 50sqm, 10l capacity

  • I have ION612 model and it's working great, just wondering is this the older version of ION612?

    • +1

      Possibly, though they have their differences
      612 coverage is up to 30sqm, 7L/day, has some form of air ioniser, power consumption 360-620w

      610 coverage is up to 25sqm, 6L/day, power consumption 280-460w

      • Thanks mate.

        • 610 maybe doesn't have the annoying light? haven't looked in detail yet though.

  • -1

    Hate Australia because need to use dehumidifier.

    • +2

      If you need one in temperate regions (south of NSW) I would blame terrible architecture

      • +1

        Yes, ventilation has a lot to do with it

    • Less shady, moore sunshine!

  • +1

    Any recommendations on a compressor model?

    • Ausclimate ones are highly recommended.

  • I have been coughing and sneezing a lot first thing in the morning and then I am fine all through the day.

    Do i need this to help?

  • Damn, i missed out on this waiting for livechat to reply to me. The ebay link doesn't ship to my location for some reason.the website now says none in stock…

    Anyone have any other links for Dessicant Dehumidifiers? a bit confused as there's so many!

  • +1

    Awesome, just got it from catch with 10% student discount and 8% gift card - $246.76

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