On clearance. Good price for 0w20 oil.
Also 1L bottles available for $7.98
https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/eni-104491?utm_term=ENI-…
Eni (AGIP) i-Sint Engine Oil 0W-20 4L $21.98 + $12.95 Delivery ($0 SYD C&C/ $99 Order) @ Automotive Superstore
90
LOceanMachine on 08/01/2023 - 21:36 automotivesuperstore.com.au (335 clicks)
Last edited 09/01/2023 - 17:03 by 2 other users
Last edited 09/01/2023 - 17:03 by 2 other users
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this is from last winter, so that is why its on sale. now you are prepared for this winter.
All depends where you live, I'd say maybe if you live in Tasmania.
Perhaps, but Id still want to get a UOA before I ran it more than once.
Most dealer/mechanics wouldn't even try and replace bearings. "sorry mate, engines borked, $8k for a new one"
My dads Honda specs this, we use 5w30.
Our Honda is the same. I just use 5w-30 0r 5w-40. It's got 190k+ km last time I looked.
Correct - even a F1 car and Bugatti Chiron use a 10w-60
Not sure what manufacturer would specify a 0w oil?Hyundai
Toyota state 0W 16 preferred from their hybrids, followed by 0W20 then 5W30. As below I asked the dealer this question last week and they said 5W30.
Oil is heated and cycled thru the F1 engine to bring it up to operating temp before it's started. 0w is OEM recommended for the cold start on engines with tight clearances.
The 'Winter' rating isn't the concern, it's the running viscoscity that is.
Oil isn't magic, it's ALWAYS thicker when cold, the cold and hot are on different charts.You literally CAN'T go too thin on the Winter spec, its the running viscoscity (20w) thats concerning.
That said, the further apart you take the two specifications, the more alkylated naphthalenes will be used to keep it stable, and those are what sheer.Thats why 'German Castrol' 10W60 shears to a Heavy30W/Light40W within about 1000kms.
Lots of people with modified BMW's moved to 15W50 to get the fluid shearing under control.
I had this conversation with the Toyota dealer last week regarding my Hybrid. They told me they were advised and have been using 5W30.
my lexus hybrid recommends 0w-20 but my mechanic's been putting in 5w-30. would it be bad to now switch to 0w-20? i'm at 145k on the odo
Going on 5w-30 should be good on higher odo cars. Plus I assume you are in Aus, therefore you won't ever need 0w-20.
great for winters where it snows
Please use what your manufacturer specifies. The engineers didn't go to school for nothing and know better than the mechanics when it comes to engine lubrication
Can’t thank you enough for this comment!
Within reason.
Often they're forced to meet extremely strict emissions regulations, and fuel consumption numbers.
The goal of most engineers is to meet what their employer/plan specifies; thats good engineering.
If you can achieve a more efficient engine, that lasts the warranty period, then you've engineered accurately. Warranty can be quite long now (7 years being common) but lots of us keep our cars beyond that.
There are some things in life that are worth "over engineering" if you have the skills to know how.
Luckily UOA's are cheap, and you'll find with our hot climate going "up one grade" almost always decreases wear metals.
I think car brand reputation matters more than the car lasting until warranty. Tolerances are so low in engines that a thicker oil could cause an issue where oil cannot reach/fill in the crevices
I think car brand reputation matters more than the car lasting until warranty.
You think wrong I'm sorry.
Advertisers are great at spinning "ZERO BREAKDOWNS! UNLIMITED KM WARRANTY!" Because their REPORTING PERIOD is decided by the car is still being 'current'.
There is a huge uptick trend in 'modern cars' suffering notable wear after the 8-10 year mark (just after warranty). Many are showing oil consumption as early as 200'000kms.Tolerances are so low in engines that a thicker oil could cause an issue where oil cannot reach/fill in the crevices
Speaking as someone who builds performance engines, thats false.
The oil system is PRESSURISED and is a LIQUID, which is highly incompressible.
If there is a spot with no oil (so, air) it will be forced into it. Thicker liquids are in fact better at clearing airlocks. It's why you pack oil pumps with Vaseline for first start up, to avoid air 'shielding' the pickup (because air is thin, and can be 'whipped' without pumping; dont forget air follows fluid dynamics rules pretty closely)Not to mention a 'crevice' where flow isn't happening, doesn't need to be filled anyway; it's clearly not a flow point. There's no friction there to lubricate.
What can happen when you go TOO thick (like when a 5w30 Subaru I was working on was running 40W70 to hide rod knock) is that the oil film takes longer to fall off of areas like rod and crank bearings (and rollers, and such), which means that while the film is theoretically stronger, flow speed is reduced.
Flow speed is a critical element on those surfaces, because its the main cooling method that bearings have (they have no access to coolant passages). So if you slow the flow too far, your oil gets hotter, the parts get hotter, and you get wear. Also the oil gets hotter from consatantly flowing through the bypass valve, as pressure is too high.The other risk is that VTC systems require oil to drain at a certain speed through specific sized orifices; if you go too thick, it can effect retarding of the intake cam, and result in a CEL for VTC errors.
These issues take a HUGE jump though, even a 20W50 in our climate is unlikely to cause issues in any vehicle, unless you sustain high revvs, so flow speed becomes critical.
With all of that said; I stand by my statement, and experience earlier.
In Australia, I'll never see the need to run lighter than a 30W oil, unless you're in an area that REGULARLY sees below zero.Don't take my word for it, have a look at the viscoscity chart, and compare it to the clearances in your engines, and do your own math.
https://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/images/Table_5_vi…
I guarantee your engine doesn't have tolerances much tighter than 8thou, and the CST at 100C is less than 10 on a 30W.Why do you want thinner?!
The engineers didn't go to school for nothing and know better than the mechanics when it comes to engine lubrication.
Tribologists work to a lot more parameters than maximising engine life.
What's a great way to improve fuel economy to meet environmental standards? Run thinner oil.
I'm sure most tribologists don't agree with current extended oil change intervals either.
I reckon Honda recommends 0w20 to look good on paper (fuel economy)
Yep, original K series engines are 0W20 in the USA 5W30 on Australia, and 10W40 in mexico.
Luckily K series engines are well known, and 5w40 with high zinc, or molyDTC is cheap.
Another interesting one is Mitsubishit.
The 2004 colt owners manual suggests anywhere from "0w20 to 20w50" for out climate.If you intend to keep using the same oil, get a UOA and see what it says. Find the oil your engines specific clearances and wear likes.
Do you know much about the L series (1.5 turbo crv). Spec in owners manual says 0w20, would a higher weight be better, worse or have no appreciable difference in engine longevity?
L series, yes; but not that engine specifically no.
I did build and boost a couple of L15A's (Honda Jazz); and their stock fill is a 10W40; we used to run a 10W50 once turbo'd.
Considering the L15A was one of thse MOST over-engineered blocks in Honda history, I'd GUESS that they didn't mess with it too much over the years, it was already 'perfect'.
Turbo engines DO run hotter.
Working purely on logic and guess work, I'd go to a 30W if it were my car, but I'd be testing I can't stress that enough.If you want to 'run the best for your car', pay the $25 or so for a UOA kit, and have it tested.
If the wear metals are creeping up, try going ONE step thicker, then test again at next drain interval, see if they've dropped, bingo!Lets say it takes 4 tests to find the best;
It's a $50-$100 'once per car you own' bother, to KNOW rather than guess what your engine prefers.@MasterScythe: Thanks mate, good idea about UOA and see what the data says. It’s still under manufacture warranty and I’ve been taking to a mechanic to preserve warranty. I might talk to them and see if getting a baseline UOA would be worthwhile… then maybe do another when warranty finishes and I have more control over weight.
Subaru specs 0w20 on foresters etc
We have one car with a tiny oil leak
Would 5w30 help?Not with the leak, no, just repair it.
Subaru's are a joy to work on, everything is so accessible, with the exception of rocker cover gaskets, which can literally go straight to hell :P
Good for 2022 Camry
Can anyone make any comments about the brand, I've never heard of it.
I'm after some 5w30 or 0w20 for a 2019 forester and missed out on the castrol edge a3/b4 for $42; so if someone knows of some other deals going, that would be great too.
Ive built several engines with less than 8thou clearances, and Ive still never seen a reason, in our hot climate, to go thinner than 5w30.
Fuel consumption drops a miniscule amount, but the film strength is just scary low to me.
An extra 1L of fuel every few tanks is so much cheaper to me than replacing bearings; and thats even including that i have the tools and experience to DIY that shiz….
To each their own, of course.