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Liqui-Moly Petrol Intake Clean $26.24, Airflow Sensor $20.24, Fuel System $25.49 (Free Membership Req'd) @ Supercheap Auto

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Liqui-Moly gear on sale at Super cheap

We all like to look after our car, sometimes it's the things we think least about that can do the most damage. Ideal for everything from high performance engines to the family sedan, Liqui-Moly's Fuel System Cleaner and Conditioner is a great product that is significantly more effective than most fuel injection cleaners. Designed to deeply clean stubborn carbon deposits and contaminants from the fuel system, injectors and valves, this cleaning product restores horsepower and reliability. Once cleaned, the formula works hard to protect everything from the tank to the combustion chamber leaving behind a thin layer of film protection to keep the system healthy for up to 10,000km. This product is suitable for petrol and diesel engines running both carburettors and fuel injection systems.

Features
500mL
Improves throttle response
Cleans entire fuel system
Deep cleansing action to restore power & fuel economy
Special conditioners keep fuel flow at its optimum for longer
Made in Germany

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closed Comments

  • -3

    Using these products means you don't have to pay a mechanic to actually fix your car.

    It's a similar concept to organic produce, it just makes you feel better while not actually being better for you.

    • +6

      Err, you can feel that way but my experience differs.

      In my 8yo, 100k km VW, their injector cleaner restored engine power, which made the DSG shifts noticeably smoother.

      As a comparison, I also used it in our other car. The other is a 2yo Haval with than 20K on the clock. It did nothing noticeable to this car.

    • I was a skeptic, as I did my own injector removal / fuel rail flush clean on my previous car engines. BMW M54, Subaru EJ20T.

      I was plesently suprised when I tried Rislone injector cleaner as I didnt have much time to do a full strip/USC on the injectors on the Renaul Megane beater.
      The 1.2T engine had better 18-20%~ km/L after two bottles. I had nothing else done and drove the same route.

      So I stand by these cleaners as more than just snake oil.

  • +1

    I've heard from a few mechanics on forums that this stuff is one of the most effective at cleaning carbon deposits on cars with direct injection https://www.autoone.com.au/5319-crc-crc-gdi-ivd-intake-valve…

    • +4

      Once your direct injection engine has carbon buildup on the back of the valves, there's no way to remove it without physical work (either scraping or media blasting) - they're very hard, and baked on there.
      I'll not saying this product doesn't work - it absolutely might be able to remove a thin film - but once your deposits are thick and cooked, then it's not going to do anything.

      It's like cleaning the burnt oil from your barbecue - you need to do some physical action.

      • Yes I am well aware of this as my car has the notorious 'Prince' 1.6 THP, much later version though where this is not so much of an issue (at least not until much later in the cars life). My car purrs along and never had any issues but I am going to start using this as preventative maintenance before each oil change. Subaru make another one which dealerships also use, but research online seems to conclude this CRC stuff is the best.

        • Not sure how BMW do it, but when Peugeot do a media blast on the valves they also soak with a solvent to help things along (not sure if before or after the blasting) which will probably be a product similar to this.

          At $35 a go, your preventative plan is going to add up to a whole lot of dollars as the years pass 😁 Make sure you're always using a very-low-SAPS oil - less ash means less deposits.

          • @Nom: Yes mine is a Pug. That's good to know thanks. I might even just scrape it myself when the time comes. I don't mind spending $35 a year, that's cheap to me and there are reports online that this stuff improves performance so worth a shot. Dealer servicing costs a fortune so I do a mix of DIY and independent. Always use good oil (though I did notice on the last service the invoice stated a different grade oil and not low saps.. hmm), got the CRC cleaner and Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 ready for next oil change which I will do myself in a few weeks.

            • +1

              @nubzy: I don't have any experience of the Mobil 1, but Penrite Enviro+ C3 5W-30 is good, and you can also buy the Total oil that Peugeot themselves use but you need to go to the distributor from memory (or a Peugeot dealer).

              Scraping it yourself is very difficult, I've tried 😁 You really need the media blasting gear… The dealers are fully across this though, so don't be too concerned about it - they'll sort it out for a bit over $1000 and then it'll probably be 10 years / 100,000K before it gets thick enough again to cause problems. It's generally only something you'll need to deal with a couple of times in the car's whole life.

    • Have you tried Subaru Upper engine cleaner? That stuff eats carbon and is the best I've used.

      • That's the other one I saw recommended. There were a few comments that the CRC is even better though so I thought i'd give that a try as it is easier to find online.

        • Subaru SA459 is easier to source now. Cheaper too, around $20~.
          I had to import it bulk and split as a forum group buy myself,as the dealer charged $37 a can back in 200x.

          Let me know how the CRC goes.

  • Thanks OP, I got one of each for my 1988 Nissan 2.4

  • Liqui moly jectron on offer too.

    Gold can worked well for me on 1.8L petrol 2004 pulsar. Got rid of flat spot and made accelerating more even and car more responsive in general. Fuel economy after was 6.4L/100km with mostly Highway miles.

    This stuff won't work well if your car is already clean internally.

  • -3

    unpopular opinion, these things are a huge waste of money because the don't do anything.

  • What about Lucas fuel injector cleaner? Heard it's quite good

  • If you're using 98 fuel, is build up typically a problem still? Are we meant to believe these BP ads of "clean as you drive"?

    • All cars with direct injection will get carbon build up because the fuel does not wash over the injectors

      • +1

        injectors valves

  • Dumb question - how do you use them? Just put in petrol tank? Assuming all these are DIY products, is my understanding correct?

    • Drive to fuel station and then put in fuel tank when it is low or close to empty then fuel up.

      If you are bothered enough about your car aim to use these kinds of products in the few tanks leading up to an oil change

  • Would this help a nissan dualis that stutters or could it be a bigger issue like the cvt transmission cuasing it.

  • I have proven to myself that the Moly Injector and fuel sys clean works
    on My 2017 Tucson, 2017 Mazda 3, 2014 For Focus

    Tucson was just smoother with a Little better fuel economy
    Mazda - Misses asked what did you do its got heaps more power
    Ford - Sons Car - he said it was smoother

    Ex Mech (20 years ago) I also believe the 98 fuel has many additives and this product may not do much.

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