Help Me Build My New Gaming PC 1440p & 4K res - Budget $3,500

I'm currently building a PC from Scatch, getting mixed reviews but just want to make sure before I pull the trigger, below is the setup that I'm going to be purchasing, should I change anything or go ahead as I don't want to go more than $3500?

Concern: not going to 4090 due to better performance but my other concern is bottle necking via the i5 processor.

Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow Tempered Glass Mid-Tower ATX Case - Black
Processor: I5 -13600KF
Mobo: MSI PRO Z790-A WIFI DDR5 LGA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (2x 16GB) DDR5 5600MHz C36 Memory
GPU: ASUS GeForce RTX 4080 TUF Gaming OC 16GB GDDR6X Video Card
CPU: Cooler: Corsair iCUE H100x RGB ELITE 240mm Liquid CPU Cooler - Black
Storage: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB NVMe 1.3 M.2 (2280) 3-Bit V-NAND SSD - MZ-V7S1T0BW
PSU: Corsair RM850x 2021 850W 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Storage: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB NVMe

Freebies: Diablo IV Standard Edition from GPU Promo & COD MW2 from MSI + Intel purchase.

Comments

  • +1

    State your use case for better help :) Might not need a $3500 PC

    • +2

      its a new build for gaming really and main part of it is diablo and want to get the most out it but idealy i want to know if this is going be future proof for the next 3 to 5 years especailly new gen games that are coming out.

  • +2

    I think it's built nicely. Nice quality parts.

    Really depends on the game but I highly doubt the 13600K will bottleneck the 4080. It's a nice pairing - assuming you're playing at 2K or 4K.

    Don't think you'll notice if you're running your GPU at 80% capacity if it's pumping 200+ frames anyway.

    You'll be set for a few years, no doubt.

    Only thing I can really recommend is to get the airflow version of the 4000D. Don't get the solid panel, please.

    • Thanks mate,

      yeah it is the 4000D airflow model, regarding resolution it will be either cause i have the C1 Oled TV and i have the ultra wide screen that i use for commercial bases however it has HDMI 2.0 but has DP 1.4

    • With the non airflow version of 4000D, could you just remove the front panel and run with the mesh exposed?

      • +2

        Yeah, it's all good. Obviously ruins the aesthetic but would be better for airflow and temperatures.

  • +1

    Maybe rethink a MSI board at the moment until they sort out their recent hack - https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2023/05/leak-…

    And is that all the storage you're getting? Games are getting huge these days and drives are cheap.

    • i have a WD Black 500GB NVME that is sitting at home so that was going to go to the OS + a samsung sata SSD which i was just going to connect as Data storage.

      the NVME for samsung will be purely for games only.

      For MSI, i think they've released a BIOS update for it but good note.

      • +1

        Fair enough, I guess I'm talking from personal experience, I have 4TB of game storage with 2.5TB used (and that's after a cleanup a few weeks ago). But then I tend to cycle through old games a lot so I leave them installed. The Diablo IV beta was over 80GB though, it's hard keeping more than a few modern games installed with limited storage.

  • +1

    Swap those two 1TB NVME's for a 2TB gen 4 SSD like https://www.amazon.com.au/Western-Digital-Black-SN850X-NVMe/…

    Also if you can dont buy the Asus tuff cards they seem to have a high chance of coil whine based on the amount of people posting on reddit about it that ive seen.

    • That seems to be a good price for a 2TB SN850X?

      Cheapest locally is 299 @ Computer Alliance and it's OOS

      • Amazon UK/US have had much better prices for 2TB gen 4 NVMe drives over the past few months

        • Are you talking about 2TB gen4's in general or the 2TB SN850X?

          2TB SN850X has always been quite expensive locally

          • @JPerez: Yeah I mean like not just the sn850x, also the 980/990 pro, firecuda 530 etc.

    • Yep this looks like a good price for a relatively high end 2TB ssd

  • That's a solid build. Only thing I'd suggest is keeping an eye on the prices of 4080's - don't pay more than $1800

    Scorptec currently have the TUF for $1800 but if it goes back to the regular price consider one of the other brands - they're all the same!

    https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/graphics-cards/nvidia/10…

    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/773545

    Have fun! :)

    • Yeah im getting the GPU for $1799, i've been keeping an eye out on static ice. thing is over the next 3 to 4 months if it drops by $100 or so it wont impact me as i will be getting diablo iv for free anyways.

      • For sure! I got the TUF 4080 at launch YOLO hah. it's such a good card, I don't even have to think about settings, just click high or ultra and it'll blitz past 144 in pretty much all games! Some games where the code is s#!t (TLOU) it'll still brute force above 100fps so it's kind of nice with all these bad PC ports lately to not be affected too much… and that's with a 12600k / DDR4 build!

        • The one thing that is really shitting me now is the below

          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2_xTUshy94&t=293s&ab_channe…

          Between 4080 vs 4090 is almost 2x the double Cuda Cores meaning it could be a possiblity that they can release a 4080ti to close the gap which i will be angry about.

          • @EDBTZ: Yeah but it's an exponential curve for power vs performance, there's double the cuda cores sure, but it's not double the performance, you're talking like 10-20fps gain, and when you're already at 144+fps is it worth the extra power consumption? The 4080 is very efficient which is nice, and you never have to worry about thermals either. My fan rarely goes over 30% (which is super quiet), and the times it does go above that I can cap it at 30% and temps will never go past ~79C - the heatsink is just soo big.

            But yeah, the 4090 is more powerful so if you can snag one for only a couple hundred more then go for it but I don't think it's worth an extra $500. Just be sure to up your PSU to 1000w if you do that. But yeah, no matter what you get there will be something better or cheaper in 6 months time. I'd be more concerned about the 14th gen Intel's coming up but there will always be something better around the corner!

            • @jk82: thanks for the tip man, makes perfect sense.

              One last thing, is it worth going up to an i7 13700 or just stick with an i5 13600. i dont think its going to be a massive difference especially since everything is going to be latest gen if it was 3 gen ago then maybe but considering is going to be DDR5 plus as well 13th gen then i dont think its going to be a concern especially if i run 1440p/4k?

              • @EDBTZ: The only benefit with gaming going up to the 13700 is that it has 8 power cores vs 6 in the 13600. The only time you’ll want those extra cores will be for ray tracing / path tracing so it’s a very niche use case. I think it’s really only cyberpunk overdrive mode that would use them at the moment… but again you’re talking very minimal performance gains and DLSS3 kind of makes up for it anyway.

                • @jk82: so lets say i buy a 4k monitor next month, run Diablo or MW2 on max settings. i wont see any addtional improvement as such ?

                  • @EDBTZ: Basically. At 4K you’re gpu limited. If you’re going for a 4K monitor I would seriously consider the 4090 (as much as that sucks). Check out the benchmarks between the 4080 and 4090 and make up your mind from there.

                    • @nomoneynoproblems: Nomoneynoproblems has a good point. Definitely look into 4K performance there.
                      I’m running ultrawide so 3440x1440.

                      MW2 benchmark at max settings no dlss (native res) gives me I think something like 150fps. Can’t remember it’s been a while. And Diablo IV beta didn’t drop past my cap of 172fps at max settings (my monitor goes up to 175hz so I cap it for gsync).

                      If you’re looking for a new monitor I highly recommend the new OLED’s that are out (G8 or Alienware). I can’t go back after going OLED it’s sooo good! And UW1440p is a very nice res for the 4080

                      And on the rare occasion I plug my pc into my tv it’s 4k@120hz and that’s pretty solid for the games I play there - but that’s very casual so I can’t comment too much on 4K performance

                      The only other thing I’ll mention is look into DDR5 RAM compatibility with the specific motherboard you’re getting. I’ve read there’s compatibility issues with certain sticks of ram on certain boards.

                      • @jk82: Thanks nomoneynoproblems and jk82, i've checked a few build sites and confirmed that there isnt any incompatiable issues.

                        problem is that i dont have the money to invest in a 4090, sure i can go and get a cheap aftershock/scorptec/mwave build but it still going to cause me grief. i think at this stage i might look into changing the process to i7 to give me the extra edge

  • I would spend the extra $20 or so for a 13600K with the iGPU. It's one of those things you don't need until you do.

    I would also spend a bit more for better ddr5 ram to get 6000CL30 or 6400CL32 such as this kit: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/771706 (it should be $5 usd cheaper now).

    Also you don't have to worry about this now but make sure to undervolt the cpu in your msi bios as in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mkAVITZoLY

    • Can you share your reasons why i would go for a higher mhz such as 6000CL30 or 6400CL32, sorry im knew to this

      and why i would i undervolt the cpu? doesnt it impact performance?

      • RAM - I told you in below comment already
        UnderVolt - 13th gen CPU runs somewhat hot, it's just a way to cool the CPU down a bit.

        I personally wouldn't undervolt 136k, as it's only running at 5.1Ghz stock, and with okay-ish cooling, 5.5Ghz OC should be able to achieve (be aware of silicon lottery though) so you'll likely end up with upping the voltage anyway…

        (and if you run stock freq, with a cooling that's not "sad", under gaming/everyday scenario, it is not going to throttle anyway, so undervolt is not necessary)

  • RAM's crap. Low speed, very unlikely be Hynix IC based, no OC headroom, will bottleneck 4080.

    MSI's DDR5 optimization is also not quite there compared to Gigabyte/ASUS.

    • what do you suggest instead?

      • +1

        DDR5 route:

        To get a Hynix Based Chip(M or A), get a set of RAM that's 6000+, timing looks like X-Y-Y, where X<Y. good example: 6000 32-36-36, to get Specifically Hynix A-Die, get 6600+ or even 7000+

        note: Hynix DDR5 is the only properly OC-Able chip now. Hynix M is not as good as Hynix A, but better than anything else. Get A-Die where possible
        

        Mobo to get:

        low end: ASUS Z790-P, Gigabyte Z790 UD and everything above
        mid range: not much OC difference compare to low end with better Audio, Lan etc.
        high range: Gigabyte Z790 Aorus Master, ASUS Strix-E and above
        extreme OCer choice: z790 Apex, Z790 AORUS TACHYON, or any ASUS/Gigabyte z790 ITX, or evga z790 dark
        

        DDR4 Route:

        MSI Z790 A Pro WiFi DDR4 (ALC4080 Audio, 2.5G lan, good DDR4 memory trace, decent power delivery, you really don't need anything higher end at all)
        
        RAM: any Samsung B-Die, anything 3600+ with timing look like x-x-x, or x-y=y where y>= x+1
        
        example: 3600 16-16-16, 4000 17-17-17, doesn't need to be crazy high end, whatever 16G*2 with 3600~4000 freq.
        

        to note, for most game, decent DDR4 is not too far off DDR5 if not the same performance.

        • im still confused but maybe you can share some guidance with me.

          So lets say i decide to go with this board https://www.mwave.com.au/product/gigabyte-z790-ud-ax-lga-170…

          What would be the ram around 6000mhz that you'd suggest, if i take your timing to be example its https://www.mwave.com.au/product/corsair-vengeance-rgb-32gb-…

          • @EDBTZ: see this one is 6000 36-36-36, which don't comply with the x-y-y rule.

            around 6000 and below with x-x-x timing = Samsung chip.

            • @OMGJL: So this i assume would be M Die then?

              https://www.mwave.com.au/product/gskill-ripjaws-s5-32gb-2x-1…

              Or should i just buy this for $ 200 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNYWFC91

              • @EDBTZ: Could be M or A die (A Die does what M-Die can do but better), if they run out of M-Die they could fill the void by using excess A-Die.

                Though more chance to be M than A.

                this is out of stock tho?

                • @OMGJL: i was refering to this one

                  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNYWFC91 latency is 6400 CL32-39-39-102 sorry and after tax is AUD 219.45

                  • @EDBTZ: Amazon one's good, almost guaranteed( 99%) to be Hynix A with very little chance being high-bin M-Die(very unlikely)

                    • @OMGJL: Thanks, i've just ordered it, thanks for the heads up

                      So now what i've just have to do is change the board to this and i should be sweet?

                      https://www.mwave.com.au/product/gigabyte-z790-ud-ax-lga-170…

                      • @EDBTZ: as far as spec concerned, I think everything is great after the change of MB/RAM.

                        one small heads up, your Case have a GPU clearance of 360mm, and your GPU is 348.2mm long.

                        you basically have 1cm gap only.

                        IDK if Corsair GPU clearance factor in the FAN thickness at 25mm, if they didn't, then this case would be a bit too short for your GPU.

                        Even if it will fit, your CPU watercooling will fit at top only, means that radiator will only have hot air dumped by your GPU going through.

                        Best to find a case with front mounted radiator space (GPU clearance > 342.2mm GPU + 25mm FAN + 27mm Radiator) so 400mm or above.

                      • @EDBTZ: Hey Mate FYI ordered the 6400 and got M-Die .. not a deal breaker for me anyways :)

                    • @OMGJL: I got the amazon one today and I got m-die lol

                      Could just be my 2023 March batch tho, I heard one other instance where someone bought these in April (or perhaps got an April batch?) and it was m-die for them as well

                      • @povogamer: this exact set? mind to take a picture of your RAM's sticker?

                          • +1

                            @povogamer: Yeh saw that "820M" code right above barcode, so indeed M-Die.

                            I thought they'd use more A-Die in the higher speed bin for easier QC and compatibility.. Turns out I am wrong.

                            I did some research and find out that M-Die even existed with 7200 XMP kits..

                            Luck of the draw time I guess?

                            good news is you'll still get very decent performance at around 7000+ with maxed out secondary timing + territory timing, which M-Die may achieve anyway.

                            • @OMGJL: Back in early March, I was going to build an AMD system and wanted the best timings there was so I spent a bit extra for the better timings…

                              Eventually last second, I already had the memory brought but instead switched to Intel (z790 master, i9 13900k)
                              https://amzn.asia/d/6KhqRVw

                              It seems to be pretty alright, I have only just enabled XMP (no manual timing changes etc). The batch I got was hynix M die.

                              Is it worth for me to buy that 6400mhz kit? Would there be any performance gains?
                              I just want a system that's stable and I don't know how to do timings or clock it higher so I don't touch that stuff

                              • +2

                                @Lordeee: if you can't do secondary/territory, then it won't matter too much. By leaving your primary timing and frequency untouched, tighten secondary + territory would yield probably more performance than if you gained like 600+ raw clock.

                                my number figure might be wrong, but should be ballpark close…

                                point is, you won't gain that much more performance by getting a better xmp profile without fine tuning, not quite worth it.

                                • @OMGJL: Aha thanks. I just thought I'll ask

                                  I went with the kit above cause pretty sure gamers nexus uses this same kit in the test benches and thought it would be pretty decent (cause I was going with AMD and had already ordered the memory from the US ((8th March) then decided to go Intel at the last second so I brought the mb and CPU on the 13 March), from there forward I've just kept it and I haven't been having any issues with it but hey, just thought I'll ask cause this is the very first time that I've brought a kit for myself that is fast timings

                                  Honestly, I didn't care about the RGB but at the time that's all I found with decent timings that would of suited AMD

                                  • +1

                                    @Lordeee: I wouldn't worry if I were you. M-Die ain't bad anyway, and it is a good kit to dip your toe in water for Mem-OC if you wish, and will give you pretty good performance.

  • +1

    I actually just built this exact build (more or less) with the same mobo, cpu and a 4080 Ventus to fit in my smaller case. However, I air cooled instead of AIOs.

    It runs extremely well on everything at 4K full graphics that I’ve tried… note that’s only at 60hz however.

    Definitely 5 years futureproofed I’d say, I only upgraded cause my 1080 machine from 2016 was getting long in the tooth so I expect/hope to get similar mileage from this one.

  • Thanks for the tip mate, i might go down to this board instead https://www.mwave.com.au/product/msi-mag-b760-tomahawk-wifi-…

    i dont see the value going to MSI PRO Z790-A WIFI DDR5 LGA … thoughts?

    • -1

      If it is only for gaming at 2K or 4K, 13400f + B760 is enough without getting an AIO cooler. Just get a ATX board since 4080 is a thick card blocking a few PCI-E slots.

      https://www.umart.com.au/product/gigabyte-b760-ds3h-ax-d4-lg…

      Also benchmarks for different CPU running with RTX 4090. Reckon the difference will be smaller when pairing with RTX 4080.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lk94Mre1V2c

      • about the worst benchmark, no 1% low, no frametime graph, no ring speed, no ram timing.

        depends on game, 134f vs 136k could have a ton of difference.

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