This was posted 8 months 5 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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Gulf Western 5W-30 Syn-X Plus Full Synthetic Engine Oil 5L $35.99 + Delivery ($0 C&C / in-store) @ Supercheap Auto

580

Another month, another Fully-Synthetic 5W-30 oil on sale at sub $40 for your oil change needs.

Was $60.99
Sale price $35.99

Features:

  • 5 Litre
  • 5W-30
  • API SN/CF
  • ACEA A3/B4
  • Full Synthetic oil specifically engineered for today's modern Petrol and Diesel vehicles
  • Exclusive to Supercheap Auto
  • MB 229.5, VW 502.00/505.00, Renault RN0700/0710

Product Info:

Gulf Western SYN-X Plus 5W-30 is a high performance, high quality, fully synthetic oil formulated for use in vehicles that require the use of API SN/CF ACEA A3/B4 specification engine oil. SYN-X Plus provides exceptional deposit and sludge control to keep your engines internals clean and minimise wear while maintaining engine oil performance for increased oil change intervals. The full synthetic base oils offer great viscosity stability during operation in extreme temperatures and minimises harmful wear caused during start-up.

Gulf Western SYN-X Plus Engine Oil is suitable for use in passenger vehicles and light commercials using petrol, LPG and diesel engines (Not suitable for vehicles fitted with Diesel Particulate Filter) where API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4 or earlier specification engine oils are recommended.

To find the oil type and viscosity suggested for your vehicle; either add your vehicle to My Garage or check with your manufacturer, vehicle user manual, your local mechanic or head in-store and talk to one of our friendly team.

Note: This oil is a Supercheap Exclusive so doesn't appear on Gulf Western's site or within their lube guide.

Alternative option:

If Syn-X Plus does not suit your vehicle, per SuperCheap's suitability check, Syn-X 4000 Fully Synthetic Oil is also on sale for $36.59. (5 Litre, 5W-30, API SN, ILSAC GF-5)
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/gulf-western-gulf-wester…

Check here to see if this is recommended for your vehicle: https://www.gulfwestern.com.au/lube-desk/

Related Stores

Supercheap Auto
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closed Comments

  • Quick question. If i dont use all 5L and want to keep the rest - where does the old oil go?

    • +10

      I use it for cooking

      • Ah - Do you need more?

    • Transfer into a smaller bottle.

      • ah - stupid question, whats a suitable bottle…? does it need to be a specific plastic? Thanks.

        • +1

          The cheap steel jerry cans work well if you want to keep it for some reason.

          But anything will last the hour or so it takes to drop the old oil off at the local SCA

    • +4

      I have a car that needs 4L and just keep the extra 1L in the same bottle for top ups if required. The next time I do an oil change, I use the 1L (or whatever is remaining) first before the next bottle (assuming I am using the same brand and spec of oil that is).

      Open oil should still last 2 years or so if kept in reasonable storage conditions.

      • Ah yea - that works well after you get the cycle going. How do you deal with the first batch?
        Thanks.

        • As above.

        • Unless you have multiple cars to do, it can live in the drain pan.

    • +2

      Regarding the old oil, save some old plastic milk bottles (3ltrs). Oil will sit inside for long duration. Up to you on how to dispose it.

      • Ah! thanks!

      • Local garage will often take oil for free as they get paid for it. Itherwise recycling places too

    • A lot of mechanics/workshops are always getting rid of 20L drums, I tend to store in these and recycle in bulk at the local transfer stations. They're handy to empty quickly as they have the air bleed caps

      • +1

        For dealing with old oil, I ended up getting a ~10L large plastic oil container from Supercheap which has a screw on top.
        I do decant that into milk bottles or drink bottles which I take to my local recycling centre (which they do accept).

        Supercheap do have oil recycling also though I think they will only take it in proper oil containers.

    • Legitimate answer here - get a small container and store it, like a thoroughly washed Pepsi, Coke, etc bottle. Put the used oil in this.

      I'd encourage to put a plastic bag or similar over the top and rubber band around the lid to prevent leakage as we know oil will penetrate.

  • Heyo,
    Just wondering, what is this oil comparable to?
    Is it compared to the likes of Castrol Edge? or Penrites HPR oils?

    Cheers,

    • +1

      Castrol Edge is API SL 2001
      Gulf Western is API SN 2015
      So looks like better grade

      • +1

        Only reason for the SL rating on Castrol edge is due to it exceeding certain additive limits that an SM or SN rating imposes.

        It would be a better performer than the Gulf Western.

        • I appreciate the responses!
          Just making sure they are quality oils because I'm stocking up on oils for my evo!
          Still need to read up on oil quality but I've always used Castrol edge or Penrite HPR but appreciate your research. Don't mind switching it up
          Cheers

        • You seem to know a bit.

          I have a R36 Passat that calls for "VW 507.00" Which basically severely limits options. However I understand that they're all "long life" oils. (E.G Castrol Edge 5w-30 LL) - I do yearly/10k services - would it really hurt to go with the regular Castrol Edge or even this which is 505.00 approved?

          • @Matt86: It's sound logic and I've often thought the same, but hard to know for sure and with a Euro engine I'd be a little wary of deviating from the spec.

            FYI Edge LL is on sale for $69 at Repco at the moment. I'd pay the extra for the peace of mind.

            • @Skips: Ehh, its nothing special compared to other cars just that it's a VR6. But I concur, I just got one and don't need another one til next year now but we'll see.

              Thanks for the advice!

          • @Matt86:

            I have a R36 Passat that calls for "VW 507.00"

            VW 507.00 is a diesel spec. You have a petrol engine.

            Your R36 Passat will ideally use a VW 504.00 spec oil which is for the Long Life variable service regime which we don't use in Australia. Availability of 504.00 oils was an issue 13 years ago when it was $90/5L but there are plenty of reasonably priced options now.

            VW 502.00 is the recommended spec for the 15k km /12m service interval that VW recommends but if you love your vehicle you'll drop back to 10k km intervals. There are dozens of 502.00 oils available in 10w-30 and 10w-40.

            • @brad1-8tsi: Have been doing 10k for a long time, 5k on my Audi.

              R36 is meant to be 18k which is a joke, almost every R36 owner does 10k to try and prolong the life of the dreaded chains (the actual issue is the guides).

              My understanding is the OEM is Castrol Edge 5w-30 LL - that's what the Castrol website recommends but 504.00 is considered fine after reading. Penrite also suggest a 504.00/507.00 approved oil.

              I think I might swap to a 504.00 after I get one last tin of Edge since I have around half a container left. That way I can do one more service on it and have minimal waste.

              Thanks for the advice.

              • +1

                @Matt86: Mate. You slightly misunderstand some things. I'm a bit of a specialist on VW stuff.

                In Australia R36, and all other VAG product from around 2000 onward were 15,000km/12 months service intervals with a minimum oils specification of 502.00/505.00. The former being the petrol spec and the latter the diesel spec. The oil was the same.

                European/UK markets had the "Variable Oil Change" interval when fitted with the sensor in the oil pan. This required the 504.00/507.00 spec oil. The former being the petrol spec and the latter the diesel spec. The oil was the same.
                Depending on model and engine variants, variable service intervals of up to 2 years or max. 30,000 km are possible for petrol engines and 50,000 km for certain diesel engines. This is nuts if you want your car to last beyond VWs expected lifespan (about 8 years).

                Castrol Edge 5w-30 LL is VW 504.00/507.00 approved and always has been.

        • Rubbish! Its a SL rated oil because it has not passed the tests to be a SN grade oil, its a quite poor oil rating wise compared to an SN oil. API ratings are earned by demonstrated performance meeting a standard.

          This is basic stuff.

          • +1

            @ghosta: Not so, the API has limits on additives for certain oil grades. From Penrite website:

            When API SM was introduced - for the first time, the limit on Phosphorus was from 0.06-0.08% (600-800ppm). There were industry concerns about the applicability of these oils in older engines. However, the limit only applies to 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils (so called “ILSAC” grades). Any other grades were exempt from this. When HPR 10, 15 and 30 initially went to API SM technology, they maintained their Phosphorus levels of approximately 1000ppm (about 1100ppm zinc). None of the viscosity grades for these products are bound by the 800ppm upper limit.

            The other approvals that the Edge 5w30 has such as LL01, 229.5 etc are far more stringent than any of the API specs. Suggesting that it's not good enough to meet SM but able to meet 229.5 is laughable.

            • -1

              @Skips: When you actually understand the basics you can then make a meaniful comment…untill then, well……

    • +2

      An often debated topic. This will be a Group III base oil. That would be the same for Castrol Edge and Penrite's synthetic oils to as I understand it. The only oils that move into Group IV base would be top of the line, and top dollar racing oils (maybe Shell is still Group IV for their oil derived from natural gas?).

      Regardless, my method is to use whichever "fully synthetic" oil is on sale and do my oil changes at 7500km or 6 months, which ever comes first. My last change in both cars was Nulon, and I have stocked up on some Gulf Western for the next changes.

      • Thanks

      • +1

        Ah fair enough. I appreciate your research my man.
        Yeah I always service my cars every 6 months or 6000kms, whichever comes first. Always been the rule.
        Don't mind the switch up of oil brands as long as it is good for my evo haha

        Cheers!

        • I was like you and changed my oils at 5k or 6 months, Then when I read up on oils at the website bobistheoilguy and other sites I realised how much money and time I could save by switching to full synthetic oil and doubling the oil change interval to 10-12k or 12 months.

          Since then, prices for synthetic oils on sale are similar to sale prices to straight mineral oils, semi synthetics can be even cheaper!

          Oils have improved enormously, and unless your engine is constantly stressed through racing or towing under extreme conditions then to change oils at anything less than 10k is not smart. But it does take a change of mindset!

          • +1

            @ghosta: Do the taste test at 6000km. If it still tastes like oil and slips off your tongue, it's still good… If it tastes like chargrilled horse manure and sticks to the roof of your mouth, then change it…
            Disclaimer, do not take my advice literally

  • Thanks OP, had been looking regularly on SCA and Repco, but OzB alerts to the rescue! Woulsnt let me order more than 2x. Dont forget to order new sump bolts.. the dealership really don't like me, I've saved a ton by making them use my suppliers. E.g, they wanted nearly $400 to replace spark plugs, I got them for $100 online and paid them $20 labour.

    • Dealerships usually don't use parts from outside. Which Dealerships do you go to?

      • Several mazda dealers, they've always taken my parts and adjusted invoices accordingly

    • +2

      I just get new sump washers. I don't buy a new bolt unless it is damaged.

      One filter type I buy (for a Kia Carnival - Repco) comes with the washer in the box.
      The other filter (for a Subaru - Sakura from eBay) does not. I buy the washers from the Subaru dealer for about $3.

    • Dont forget to order new sump bolts

      What the hell? Crush washers - yes but sump bolt? Are you rounding the head / destroying the hex socket every time you remove them?

      I've done 26 oil changes on my current car and it's still the factory issued bolt. I change the sump plug washer every change but only because they cost bugger all. If you don't over torque the sump bolt it's next to impossible to destroy it.

      Also, which euro exotic are you driving that requires two or more sump bolts?

      • +2

        Yeah that's insane. My old Corolla had the same plug from the day it rolled off the production line to the day it went up to that great garage in the sky 20 years later.

      • +2

        I don’t even change the crush washer I’ve flipped the bloody thing for 10 years straight and it’s fine. Old girl doesn’t leak a drop.

        • +1

          I’ve used cardboard (from the oil filter box folded over /double layered [not the corrugated type] as a substitute crush washer) when I was in a pinch and it worked fine… it’s not the proper way though…

      • I don't change the oil. Maybe I recalled the charges incorrectly and the dealer charged for the washers… but perhaps the plug! Will question them if the plug!

        • Dealers probably rattle them on and destroy them so might need replacing.

          • @Muzeeb: A lot of plugs are just rubbish.
            IIRC the latest VW plugs are single use as part of their commitment to sustainability /s. Even their old metal plugs were only good for a few uses unless treated with kid gloves.

    • The even better option is to learn to do the basics yourself if you can! The tools to do spark plugs would cost you around $20 at most (if you have a 1/2 inch drive already) and you've then got the tool for next time.

      I'm surprised dealers even use your own parts, I've not really dealt with them much but my experience is that they won't touch anything you provide and push the "genuine parts" rant down your throat.

      • I used to service my own car as a teen with an out of warranty car. Now as an adult with a recent model, under warranty I'm sticking to log book servicing for peace if mind, resale and to save my back and knuckles.

  • +1

    10w-30 semi-synthetic on sale for $31.79 too

    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/gulf-western-gulf-wester…

  • +1

    Not much of a car person here. Is it ok to mix two different brands of oils? A few days ago, I put in 1litre of 5w-30 synthetic oil. If I use the exact same type but different brand could it cause an issue?
    Thanks

    • +1

      No, it shouldn't

      • Thanks

        • +2

          I'm going to add some more info on this one. While a small top up with a different brand of oil with the same viscosity and specification is likely not an issue, mixing a large percentage of oil in your engine might be.

          Manufacturers produce a number of different variations of oil products for the same viscosity. These oils have different additive packages and meet different specifications. What we don't know is how the additive package of oil A will work with the additive package of oil B. Are they compatible, are they not? It is unknown and certainly untested.

          This article explains it well: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/235/mixing-lubrica…

          Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.

  • Oil extractor pumps can be used if it's easy to access the oil filter from above. Supposedly this is what some dealers do. Safer esp if you don't have car stands or ramps. Essentially they suck oil out of the dipstick tube

    • Some cars don't have a sump plug and this is the only option.

    • +1

      Oil extractors are convenient but the issue is that they can leave the rubbish at the bottom. It is (in my experience) better to let it drain out if it does have a plug as it will push all of the rubbish out of the bottom.

      It will depend on how old your car is and the general engine wear it is having however.

      Cars without dipsticks or sump plugs are just plain stupid though.

  • Anyone know the difference between Syn-X Plus and Syn-X 4000? Can't find it in google

  • Looks like decent price, before placing the order, I tried to find the HTHS specs of the oil, can't find it in the specs sheet…

    As a reference, Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 HTHS @ 150 Celsius is 3.5 mPa·s, Castrol Edge 5W-40 is 2.9…

    • Castrol Edge 5w40 is at least 3.5, as this is a requirement of the approvals that it carries (such as A3/B4).

      While the specs of the Gulf Western aren't published the same logic could be applied here, assuming they have met the approval specs that they claim.

      • You are right, there is a minimum standard.

        Contact sales and got the following response.

        "Any time you have either of the following specifications: ACEA C3 or ACEA A3/B4 you are guaranteed a minimum 3.5cP HTHS.

        By the way, unless you have a diesel engine with diesel particulate filter (DPF), you may also want to consider our Syn-X 5000 5W-40 which has the ACEA A3/B4 specification and has a HTHS value of 3.7 cP."

    • +1

      From an old email to Gulf Western back in 2021 …
      SYN-X PLUS 5W-30

      Kinematic Viscosity:
      @ 40°C 71.7
      @ 100°C 12.0

      Viscosity Index: 165

      TBN: 10

      Sulphated Ash: 1.2 %

  • Any idea why SCA's website said Nulon Apex+ 5W-30 Fully Synthetic is compatible but this particular one is listed as not compatible?

    • Hard to know as Gulf Western don't list the Supercheap exclusive Syn-X Plus in their lube guide. If the If the Syn-X 4000 is listed as compatible, I'd run with that for 60c more.

      • Syn-X 4000 also listed as "Doesn't fit your vehicle". They're all 5W-30. Not sure why some fits and some don't. Any automative experts here care to comment? Thanks.

        I checked vehicle manual. 5W-30 is listed as compatible.

        • What are the specifications in your vehicle's manual? It will show you the oil specification minimum requirement.

          API:
          ACEA:
          ILSAC:

          • @dkausa: Just says "API service SM or higher grade fuel-efficient oil".

            The Syn-X 4000 is API SP so that's even more superior than SM but yet still listed as "Doesn't fit your vehicle".

            Manual does not mention any ACEA nor ILSAC.

            • @Eugklng: The parts checkers aren't the best on the auto parts websites. I've seen them conflict with each other for the same oil's suitability for the same car.

              From the car manufacturer's view, as long as the oil meets or exceeds the specification(s) they list, then you are fine to use it.

              If you want to be certain, I'd suggest contacting Gulf Western's support line. I've called both Nulon and Penrite support in the past and both were very helpful in checking compatibility and answering questions about their products. I suspect Gulf Western are the same.

            • @Eugklng: Post should read API or ACEA or ILSAC as these are just different ways of grading oils and a manufacturer uses what suits them API being the most common.

              Many maufacturers have their own grading too..more info in this link.

              https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Specifications/19…

  • I went off looking for some but couldn't find any in 2 stores, there wasn't room for many on the shelves (6 per store?). One had two Syn-X 5000 5W-40 for $42. Then I realised I hadn't checked the viscosity of the oil in this Ozbargain post, my car is too old for 5W30 anyway.

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