Help Me with a Shortlist of 1st Cars for My Son

CantonasKungFuKick on 13/02/2024 - 11:58

My son has been saving to buy his first car, we (I) do not know anything about cars so trying to get some help other than Google.

Budget is 8k
must be Automatic and based in SA
I'd rather he drove something smaller like a hatchback, but we have a list of several types

any thoughts, and if these are all terrible ideas, what should we be looking for?

He seems to like this one:

2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES CH Auto - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2004-mitsubishi-lan…

but this is our shortlist so far:

The plan would be to get a mechanic inspection done, but I hear stories where you pay for this and then the seller sells the car to someone else in the meantime, are there any tips/advice on how best to avoid this?

Is it better to go to a dealer and pay for a warranty, rather than Private?

any help appreciated.

Automotive Car Holden Hyundai Motors Toyota Volkswagen Volkswagen Polo

Comments

Best

brendanm on 13/02/2024 - 12:09

+76

Not a Holden, Cruze and Barina are both terrible. 04 Lancer for that price seems crazy, should be abl to get the latest body shape.
- brifog on 13/02/2024 - 18:30
  
  +23
  
  Would offer 2.5k for the lancer and go up to 3.5k. Seller is never getting close to 7.5k for an 04 lancer.
- Dreamcast on 14/02/2024 - 08:44
  
  +18
  
  Terrible is an understatement!! Avoid the Cruze so all cost. The most unreliable POS!
- OzzyOzbourne on 14/02/2024 - 09:22
  
  +10
  
  Absolutely avoid holden cruze. Friend got one for 10k from a dealer, spent another 10k fixing it after the warranty expired over 3 years
- Clain on 14/02/2024 - 20:54
  
  +5
  
  Agreed with brendanm here, steer clear of Holden Cruze, as far away as you possible can.
  - MementoMori on 17/02/2024 - 09:26
    
    Wow… just drove one that snapped a timing belt at 110,000kms. Engine screwed. I had no idea they had a bad wrap. Chevy Malibu btw…
- CantonasKungFuKick on 13/02/2024 - 13:06
  
  Yeah, according to Red Book, the value should be around $4k..
[Deactivated] on 13/02/2024 - 12:15

+48

Stay away from holdens and Volkswagens, get a reliable Asian made vehicle.
- FrankAbagnaleJr on 13/02/2024 - 14:46
  
  +14
  
  Yep can confirm VW is not worth the cost of repairs once it starts going.
- CantonasKungFuKick on 13/02/2024 - 12:51
  
  Struggling to find one within his price range
  - Monad on 14/02/2024 - 10:04
    
    +21
    
    The reason why you're struggling to find an asian car within his price range is exactly the reason why rebadged holdens and volkswagens are cheaper to buy, they're less reliable (especially the cruize) and getting on in years, cost more to keep running.
    
    Link to Car Sales of cars in SA, broken down to you/your son's budget/requirements:
    
    Carsales
    - ScribbleSass on 15/02/2024 - 21:46
      
      +2
      
      Ditto. Hyundai entry level models would be a very good first car.. Aim for 2009-2013 model. Cheap but realiable, usually.
  - Jake D on 13/02/2024 - 13:49
    
    +17
    
    Camry
  - Lichen6420 on 14/02/2024 - 18:17
    
    +5
    
    Find an 08-12 Lancer. The things are bulletproof and cheap to maintain and repair.
    - Ghost47 on 14/02/2024 - 18:34
      
      +1
      
      Good choice. CJ Lancer with the 4B12 motor.
      
      The only concern with those Lancers would be the paint job, the clear coat tends to wear easily from what I've heard.
      - Minimum chips on 14/02/2024 - 18:50
        
        +6
        
        @Ghost47: It's a first car. He's a male. He'll be thrilled to get a bad wrap job on it to cover the blistered paint.
        
        Ghost47 on 14/02/2024 - 18:50
        
        +2
        
        @Minimum chips: Hahahaha, true.
      - Lichen6420 on 14/02/2024 - 19:13
        
        +1
        
        @Ghost47: Not alot of the 4B12 (2.4L) Lancers out there. Vast majority are 4B11 (2.0L)
        
        If you find a 4B12 (2.4L) for the right money jump on it.
        
        Both great engines, bigger engine is much nicer to drive, the extra power is handy, especially in an Auto.
        
        Ghost47 on 14/02/2024 - 19:21
        
        @Lichen6420: Hmm you are indeed correct. I just checked Carsales and there's only one CJ Lancer with the 4B12 in SA going for $8.5k and it's in manual, wtf.
        
        I thought they'd be cheaper! Must be increased demand again… And definitely agreed, larger engines are much nicer to drive and well worth the compromise in fuel economy (to an extent anyway).
      - chumumay on 16/02/2024 - 16:16
        
        @Ghost47: Had one, yes, yes it does. Paint just goes to crap.
        the 2.4 was nice to drive with a CVT (the drone isn't for everyone) but the fuel usage for today is rubbish. Was >10l/100km.
  - Jackson on 15/02/2024 - 23:51
    
    Stick to Japanese or Korean, don't even compare with anything euro, it's a trap. And preferably and in line 4 cyl if you are looking at cars with an option for a larger v motor
  - RTX9090Ti on 14/02/2024 - 09:55
    
    -4
    
    Get him to ride bus/train instead till he can buy his own car.
- WT on 14/02/2024 - 11:54
  
  We had an 06 TDI, only major thing was Duel mass flywheel went out at about 220k, clutch still original and OK, just normal service stuff and one rear caliper seal leaked which was about 100 for a new one rather then messing about with a seal kit. 4.3L/100 on highway with 30 mins of traffic and 6.5 in city, pretty much worse case traffic. No real attention given to driving it economically. would have gotten better if I did a walnut blast. Seen these engines with 500k klms, in the US the 1.9 tdi which the later 2.0 TDI is based on have hit 750k MILES. Friend had a transporter used commercially, he sold it at 500k klms and it was still going strong. So yea, from my experience the 4cyl TDI is the engine to go for in these things, not sure of petrol. Wife would have gone the sq5 but shes only a 10min drive from work, that would give dpf clogging issues always being on cold start
  
  depends on how much he drives a diesel golf/jetta/skoda could be good, get a pre DPF model or if you get a dpf model get the 125kw engine, it will tow a small boat easy (bigger then tinny) and has more torque then v8's of that era. Google dpf problem or cleaning, they are expensive to replace but can be cleaned with varying results or deleted with a tune (not easily detectable but not legal)
  
  Wouldnt get a hyundai or a cruz, might be hard to find jap made at that price point with low klms but SA is different to my local
  - Drakesy on 16/02/2024 - 12:15
    
    It's the ones with EGR's/DPF's that will put you in a world of hurt financially.
TrulyUnicorn on 13/02/2024 - 15:43

+45

Hey I'm also SA-based and keep tabs on the used car market here. I'd honestly heavily recommend going the marketplace route to find the best prices

It's currently quite common to find first gen Mazda 3's in the $2000-2500 range - especially if you're willing to check daily and be the first to contact sellers. As long as you exclusively look for the 2.0L model and not the 2.3L model these cars are rock solid (same suspension and engines as most of the 2nd gen Mazda 3's too!). Reliable, easy to find parts new and at scrapers, fairly fuel-efficient, etc. 180-250k on these cars is fine mileage as long as they've been looked after - if they have any major issues it's usually obvious and a mechanic will pick it up. Most importantly - they're easy to work on which is often not the case on many of these European models of the 2000's.

The cost savings are worth it because one of the biggest things you actually need to be mindful of in buying older used cars is the thing that virtually nobody looks after: Suspension. You really much rather have a good $2500 car you put $500-1000 of suspension work into than paying $5k or more on a seemingly more "complete" low-mileage car.

Why? Not just talking ride comfort here, your son is entering his most statistically dangerous driving period once he gets his P's and the difference between worn-out and fresh suspension is massive when he is making a sudden brake, cornering, trying to keep control on a wet road, etc. It's also a common failure point in all vehicles, engine mounts are worn which slowly kill your engine/transmission, it'll chew through tyres (which also matter for safety), often you'll encounter actual suspension failure which cost more to repair than the car is eventually worth, etc. Safety aside - reducing his odds of any dings or minor accidents is a wise financial decision.

Anyways just food for thought - I understand the additional stresses of going through Marketplace isn't worth it for many people. That being said I'm a bit of an auto hobbyist and live in SA so honestly feel free to shoot me a DM if you'd like any guidance on anything. Whichever vehicle you end up purchasing, even if it has only done ~150k's I'd heavily recommend doing essential long-term maintenance work such as transmission fluid drain & fills, differential/gear oil change, brake fluid change, engine mounts, coolant, power steering fluid and throttle body cleaning + cleaning the Mass Airflow sensor. On the suspension front prioritise tyres and brakes - but definitely consider doing shock absorbers, struts and control arms, they're very important in maintaining control of the vehicle as well as reducing braking distance.

Honestly extremely easy stuff to DIY and I'd be happy to help out for free if you needed - or just forward some good resources. Otherwise definitely consider finding a good mechanic to do those things for you. Trust me - these are essential pieces of maintenance that almost always pay for themselves and save you future headaches. I'd recommend looking up "ChrisFix" on YouTube to see how easy it is to do these things, it can be a great parent-son activity to do together too ☺️

Good luck!! As others have pointed out - try to stick to a good Asian car: Toyota/Lexus, Mazda, Honda, Mitsubishi, etc. 5 minutes of googling usually lets you know if a model is good and what to look out for.

I'd definitely recommend a Toyota Yarris too if you want something on the smaller side. Your son will appreciate the added fuel economy and maneuverability in the long run.
- LanceVance on 13/02/2024 - 16:14
  
  +8
  
  Probably the best comment here.
- CantonasKungFuKick on 13/02/2024 - 18:55
  
  +3
  
  This is amazing advice, thank you. I'll definitely reach out, thanks again
  - TrulyUnicorn on 13/02/2024 - 20:10
    
    +5
    
    All good! :)
    
    I think there's also a pretty good chance you can find some pretty low-mileage newer cars if you spend up to that 8k budget of yours. A lot of 2010's economy cars are just fundamentally more safer than even most cars from the 2000's. Chances are it'll cost the same in the long run with the added fuel efficiency too - that Mitsubishi Mirage others posted is a good example. New and low mileage enough to ignore any suspension concerns for a long time.
    
    I'll dm you some options like that later on :)
- AngusD on 14/02/2024 - 08:55
  
  Out of curiosity, what's the issue with the 2.3l Mazda 3's? I had a 2005 SP23 that never skipped a beat. Wasn't off the road for anything except scheduled servicing in the 8 years I owned it. Except for that one time when they forgot to put the lid back on the brake fluid reservoir when they serviced it and I got the warning light a couple days later and had to get it towed back there :P But that's not the car's fault :P I would unreservedly recommend that car to anyone.
  
  But yeah, I agree completely I'd go for a Japanese car if looking for used in that age bracket. Other than my first 2 cars (old Fords which were the best my budget could do at the time) I've driven nothing but Japanese cars my whole life and not had any issues other than the clutch going on my Honda Prelude, but that's probably not unreasonable after 250,000kms.
  
  Just ordered my first ever German car a couple weeks ago, a BMW. Did so with some trepidation, but all the info I could find suggests that the B58 engine is pretty rock solid from a reliability point of view. But what actually gave me enough trust in it to go ahead was the fact that it's the same engine they put in the Toyota Supra. Obviously that's built by BMW, but the fact it's reliable enough for Toyota to put their badge on it gives me a bit of peace of mind.
  - WT on 14/02/2024 - 13:13
    
    +1
    
    you have to look pretty hard to find common problems with the b58. Most common is the pcv but if you look further and really dig, the baffles in the valve cover can fail. Oem is several hundred and chineseium is about 200.
    
    There is also the belt tensioner which I think got an update
    
    Only issue we had with the wifes car is a TPMS and chassis stability error after heavy, heavy rain. It doesnt happen after i powerwash the wheel arches and its rare enough that I wont go searching for an answer. 2, a weird chirping sound coming from under the car which only started last winter, only in the cold, and only a second or 2 after the car sits overnight. I only heard it once and thought it was cockatoos but a german guy got a 20sec long vid of his car doing it and wife confirms its the same noise. His dealer pinpointed it to the rear diff pinion seal/washer so ill just spray some magic spray next time im under there and wait until winter
    
    the xhp trans flash is ok, biggest thing is it will display gear while in drive, so d1, d2 etc instead of just D and the ability to use ECO shift points in any mode which can save a lot of fuel in city. only downside is the down shifts are later so there isnt as much engine braking although its smother overall. There is a lot you can change within the software
    
    Only thing we both dont like is the throttle lag, I have a flash ready to go but I need to find some time to do some logs with the factory tune before I flash it but it should get rid of the delay they programmed into it. Im undecided if I want to put a down pipe on it
    - AngusD on 14/02/2024 - 14:13
      
      I know the 2020 M340i had a common issue with the oil pump that has since been fixed in later years. That's the only real repeated concern I encountered doing a fair bit of trawling the internet over the past year. Any other issues seemed isolated enough to not be a common issue with the car. I didn't notice any real throttle lag when I test drove it, but obviously a test drive isn't going to give you as much insight as actually living with the car. I probably wouldn't even consider risking any mods or tunes etc until after the warranty period.
      
      My concern is more to do with the excessive amount of tech in the car which is a whole bunch of extra stuff that can go wrong. But all new cars these days seem to be like that, so in that regard probably doesn't matter too much what car you get. But mechanically, at least, I'm pretty confident in the car. And I've got 5 years warranty and 5 years servicing include so won't have to spend anything on it in that time other than the consumables. If it does give me trouble in that time then I'll probably change to something else when the warranty expires. I hope I don't have any issues, though, because I absolutely fell in love with the thing when I drove it (had 2 test drives before deciding to go ahead)… just such a beautiful car to drive. I'm looking forward to having it for many years to come.
- Jaspa7 on 14/02/2024 - 11:36
  
  strange how people seem to be advocating for "quality Asian made cars", but then have kittens over BYDs etc…
  - Monad on 14/02/2024 - 13:20
    
    +5
    
    Because it is easier to say Asian cars when they mean Japanese and Korean cars (and not Chinese). Probably better to be more specific to avoid confusion.
- Grunntt on 14/02/2024 - 21:15
  
  I'd definitely recommend a Toyota Yaris too if you want something on the smaller side. Your son will appreciate the added fuel economy and maneuverability in the long run.
  
  I drove various models of the Yaris for more than 10 years as a courier and I have trouble recalling more than a couple of breakdowns in any of the vehicles at the base during that time (approx 10-12 cars on the road on any day for up to 12 hours per day).
  As long as they are maintained they just kept on going.
  Also pretty light on fuel even when driven by a varied collection of couriers. Plenty of vision for the driver and easy to park anywhere.
  
  Would make a great first car (and there's a couple on carsales that look reasonable right now).
- glenr on 15/02/2024 - 16:28
  
  100% this. Marketplace for cars < $10k, carsales >= $10k.
Mechz on 13/02/2024 - 12:15

+32

Get the newest/safest model you can afford, and forget anything with a Holden or VW badge.
blonky on 13/02/2024 - 12:50

+26

i30 is the obvious choice
- muzeeb on 13/02/2024 - 16:22
  
  +4
  
  I used to think the same - unfortunately though, it’s not that simple
  
  Similar class actions are popping up across the world
  - GordonHanley on 16/02/2024 - 09:33
    
    +2
    
    This doesn't appear to affect i30 FD model that be the only one in the OPs price range
    - noz on 17/02/2024 - 12:36
      
      The FD is a good, reliable series, and you still see many of them around, whereas later series such as the GD I don't see as many of them - probably not lasting as long as FD.
  - dan2k on 14/02/2024 - 11:28
    
    +1
    
    First I've heard of this! I have an i30 that has recently started gobbling oil - waiting on my service appointment
    - muzeeb on 14/02/2024 - 12:11
      
      +2
      
      Sorry to hear that @dan2k - great that you're paying enough attention to notice. A friend's Sante Fe blew up half way between Melbourne and Canberra and left them stranded. They did get a "free" new engine, but had to pay the exorbitant dealership labour fee to get it fitted.
      
      I still think they should have pushed Hyundai Australia to cover that too, but they were just happy to get out of a jam.
- FrankAbagnaleJr on 13/02/2024 - 14:46
  
  +2
  
  Second this. Great little cars, affordable repairs and servicing.
- skillet on 14/02/2024 - 09:46
  
  The i30 turbo isn't a good one. NA car for simple and longevity.
Jimothy Wongingtons on 13/02/2024 - 12:27

+22

cant go wrong with camry
muzeeb on 13/02/2024 - 12:38

+15

1) Holden Cruze & Barinas were very poor quality to start with - rebadged Daewoo and Brazilian cars (even though some crises were “bolted together “ in Australia - they used poor quality imported parts). Lots of engine, airbag and electronic issues.

2) modern vws are known for poor reliability outside of their warranty periods - vws of this age mainly used a terrible DSG auto gearbox which was the subject of several recalls. Some are fine, but have $5-8k in an emergency gearbox repairs fund if you choose one of these.

3) Hyundai are currently batting a class action for continuing to sell engines that they knew had significant design flaws and regularly suffered catastrophic failures. Some models are fine/good (like the Getz) but the i30s are apparently affected.

So, that leaves you a Hyundai Getz, Mitsubishi lancer or a Toyota Camry. At that age, the Camry will definitely be the most reliable bet - but may still miss out on key safety features like passenger side airbags and abs/traction control.

Tough choices in a tough market. Good luck

Edit - there might be some Honda accord euros in your price range - at this time, Honda were considered the “Mercedes of Japan”, so will be a great option too
- pinchies on 13/02/2024 - 18:12
  
  +4
  
  Seconded #1 and #2.
  +1 for Honda Accord Euro
  
  I would also push for Toyota Corolla/Camry, Mazda 3/6
  - Ghost47 on 14/02/2024 - 18:39
    
    Mazda 3 isn't a bad recommendation either. There are SP25s on Carsales are going for less than $8k, but mileage is somewhat high.
- josaya on 15/02/2024 - 15:16
  
  +2
  
  Our Hondas have been fairly reliable, but alternators, magic seat mechanisms, and door actuators are common failures (likely sun/heat/age related). Main thing would be the entertainment systems being fairly dated.
  
  Mitsubishi or Toyota would be in the same class. Have you looked at the Corolla, Jazz, or Mirage? Anything small and economical, maybe even with parking sensors? Fuel was a major pain point for me in uni, and it was only 70c/L back then!
- BartholemewH on 15/02/2024 - 13:35
  
  +1
  
  To clarify the VW gear boxes, I believe the 7 speed / dry clutch DSGs were shit. The 6 speed / wet clutch DSGs were fine. I had a Skoda Superb 206TSI awd with the wet gearbox, never had an issue.
- CantonasKungFuKick on 13/02/2024 - 13:08
  
  Thanks for this, wasn't aware the Barinas/Cruze were not great cars, we will get rid of these from the search
  Looking at the Accords and the only ones within his price range have done mid 3's kms which seems high?
  - muzeeb on 13/02/2024 - 16:23
    
    True, a low mileage one might be a little out of the $8k price range - I just looked up Civics and it’s the same deal.
JIMB0 on 13/02/2024 - 13:07

+10

You've given us a list of mostly crap cars. The only decent one on it is the Toyota Camry.
- AustriaBargain on 13/02/2024 - 13:10
  
  +3
  
  With a budget of about $6,000 you can't really get a good car can you?
  - JIMB0 on 13/02/2024 - 13:14
    
    It wouldn't matter how much you spent on an old Holden or Volkswagen, chances are it would still be a crap car.
Chazzozz on 14/02/2024 - 10:31

+10

I'm surprised nobody has suggested this yet but whatever car you settle on ensure you do a check on the Personal Property Securities Register (PPSR) to see if there's any money owing on it. The last thing your son will want is a finance company coming to repossess his new pride & joy because some other d*ckhead didn't pay for it. They're normally $2 per report from the PPSR directly, but Budget Direct will give you up to 5 reports for free (at the cost of receiving spam from them for evermore, no doubt.)

Additionally, ensure you check the rego at the SA Motor Registry to see if it's previously been defected or written off. While it's not technically illegal to see a 'repairable write-off' or a car that's had a defect fixed in most states the seller is supposed to make this abundantly clear at the time of sale. This is important to know when your son goes to insure the vehicle as it may (at best) affect the purchase cost of the policy or (at worst) deny coverage at all. Again, he doesn't want to be stuck with something he might not be able to drive at all. The SA Gov't has a web page with advice on what to look for when buying secondhand, including a link to the rego check page.
Benoffie on 13/02/2024 - 13:03

+8

Toyota Corolla or Camry
Suzuki Swift

Easy to maintain, drive and insure.
- CantonasKungFuKick on 13/02/2024 - 13:05
  
  +1
  
  struggling to find Corolla or Swift within his price range
  - kerfuffle on 13/02/2024 - 13:17
    
    +3
    
    Can you lend him some money to increase his price range? $10K should be able to get you something sorta decent
    - CantonasKungFuKick on 13/02/2024 - 13:19
      
      if we were to go to 10k, what should we be looking at?
      - kerfuffle on 13/02/2024 - 13:29
        
        +8
        
        @CantonasKungFuKick: Corolla/Camry, anything Japanese
      - Stewardo on 13/02/2024 - 13:30
        
        +5
        
        @CantonasKungFuKick: I30
        Corolla, Camry
        Mazda 3
        Don’t buy a European or ford or Holden.
        
        Mechz on 13/02/2024 - 13:36
        
        +2
        
        @Stewardo: When did Mazda stop making the melty dashboards?
        
        DiggyWombat on 15/02/2024 - 07:59
        
        @Mechz: 2011, got to be the BL series II. You can tell a series II from a series I as the rear bumper is black plastic on the I, it's the same colour as the rest of the body on the II. The dash on the II is made of different plastic and they all start raising and deforming in the heat rather than melting. I have one
    - CantonasKungFuKick on 13/02/2024 - 13:26
      
      How about something like this? https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2007-mazda-3-neo-bk…
      - kerfuffle on 13/02/2024 - 13:30
        
        +1
        
        @CantonasKungFuKick: That looks OK; check for accident damage and service history
  - kaleidoscope on 14/02/2024 - 11:27
    
    +1
    
    That's rough. You should be able to find a pre 2010 Corolla Hatchback, Mazda 2 Hatchback around that mark.
  - Benoffie on 13/02/2024 - 14:17
    
    2014 Swifts should be a max $8k at around 150k kms.
    
    Obviously the older model Swifts (pre 2010 i think) should be sub $5k.
    
    Avoid dealers unless you're going to haggle hard. Trade in value for 2014/5 is $3k max, older model is $1-1500.
    - nigel deborah on 14/02/2024 - 22:00
      
      Swifts are pretty expensive, at least in Vic. I think you'd have a pretty hard time finding a good example 2014 or later at 150kkm for below $10k.
      
      Note on the Swifts, sometime in 2013 the Australian ones were no longer built in Japan, if that matters to you.
LanceVance on 13/02/2024 - 13:42

+6

Honda Accord Euro, one of the best cars money can buy and they range between $10-20K.
Otherwise as others has said your list is mostly full of garbage, but not everyone is a petrol head so don't feel bad about that.
Camry & i30 are probably the only picks that are OK.
General rule is go for something Asian, preferably Japanese. European cars are unnecessarily complex so higher labour costs with higher cost of parts with reduced reliability so you are more likely to run into said costs.
That being said you can also get an old beater Falcon or Commodore, mechanically if you can find one that hasn't been abused they're pretty solid, particularly the 3.8 Holden V6 and 4.0 litre straight six from Ford.
Good luck.
- Mechz on 13/02/2024 - 14:01
  
  So many VE Commodores for under 5k now. But they all have 400k on the clock, or dings in every panel.
  - Nugs on 13/02/2024 - 14:19
    
    saw one recently with a shot of the odo - 750,000km. no mention of repair history but it was white so assume it was a taxi
    .
  - LanceVance on 13/02/2024 - 16:12
    
    I wouldn't go with a VE, 3.6L V6 had lots of timing chain issues. VY's tend to go forever.
- WT on 14/02/2024 - 12:25
  
  id prob go this route, you can buy a k24 engine with low klms for $650ish and change it in a weekend so buying a high mile one wouldnt be that bad as long as it was mostly highway and the rest of the car was in good condition. I.e bushes, suspension, body, interior, gearbox. If I needed a cheap beater this is prob the route that I would go
  
  from memory the 06-08 was the best performing and I think up until 10/11 they got a bit heavier but are more "modern"
  
  Heaps of upgrades available, there is a civic in the US doing 8's without a turbo and the record for boosted is in the 5's. Not that it matters to anyone on OZB but point is, everything you could ever want is just a credit card away. They have a cult following, people are putting them in time attack cars, drag cars, drifters, old oddesy's and trolling people on the street and track, kswap rabbit hole and there are endless posts on all socials. The only other engine swapped just as much would be an LS
  - BartholemewH on 15/02/2024 - 13:48
    
    +1
    
    Not sure OP is capable of swapping an engine out in a weekend….
  - josaya on 15/02/2024 - 15:21
    
    +1
    
    I don't think the accord euro engines have been sub 1k in years. Very popular to swap into an older Honda worldwide.
  - LanceVance on 14/02/2024 - 17:03
    
    I've had 2 of the 08-12 Accord Euro's, one Auto and one Manual and they're still probably the best all rounder car I've ever driven. Driven plenty of stuff including lots of Euro's, the balance between quality, handling, ride, performance and reliability is simply unmatched. Both of mine were at or over 200K when I moved on, one was written off and the other because I moved overseas for a year and neither had any issues whatsoever and still were lovely cars to drive and own.
    Can't recommend them highly enough, Honda really outdid themselves with this model and I think lost a lot of loyal fans when they stopped making them.
Drakesy on 14/02/2024 - 14:02

+6

DO NOT GET A CRUZE
One of the worst engineered and assembled cars in all of existence.
A couple of friends were unfortunate to buy them (because they were cheap for their age). Both ended up totalling them after the mechanics gave them >$5000 bills for transmission and engine issues. Both just handed their cars to the scrapyards for $1000 or something.

Thanks for your time.
- JIMB0 on 14/02/2024 - 15:41
  
  +1
  
  They were the modern day Camira.
cashless on 13/02/2024 - 13:56

+5

Buy any car you like but please, please remove Holden Cruze.
You'll thank OzBargain for it.
Suggest anything Korean or Japanese
bdl on 13/02/2024 - 13:08

+3

i30
DemocracyManifest on 13/02/2024 - 13:32

+3

The bus
apple2016 on 13/02/2024 - 14:48

+3

Used car prices are through the roof! Many still think and act like car is an appreciating asset. These prices are not going to last long.
- AustriaBargain on 13/02/2024 - 15:13
  
  Yup, unlike housing where there is no incentive from people invested to have more houses and apartments built, because it will hurt their investment, cars are all made by overseas companies who want to make as many as possible. They do not see the car and chip shortage as a good thing at all and I bet factories and assembly lines are being built as fast as possible as we speak.
lachhelix on 14/02/2024 - 10:27

+3

Also the Mitsubishi 380 might be worth looking at if he's cool with something a bit bigger -I had one as my first car and it was fantastic - they're quite cheap to buy now too
- JIMB0 on 14/02/2024 - 10:45
  
  +2
  
  A well maintained Magna is also a good option. The hard part is finding a well maintained one.
- geekcohen on 14/02/2024 - 10:32
  
  Just without aftermarket daytime lights..
  - lachhelix on 14/02/2024 - 10:46
    
    What about chrome door handle covers? :p
    - geekcohen on 14/02/2024 - 10:46
      
      +1
      
      They are approved.
- pizzip on 18/02/2024 - 14:24
  
  Apparently parts are getting difficult to find (read: expensive) due to the lack of sales and exclusivity to the Aus market. Also the one of the thirstiest cars around.
Minheim on 14/02/2024 - 13:15

+3

the CH lancer as others have mentioned is quite overpriced. CH lancers also have a timing belt which requires changing at regular intervals. A newer CJ lancer is a better option as it has a timing chain and is a reliable and cheap to own car with better safety features. As other have commented stay away from the Holdens and VWs as they could be money pits.
giventofly on 15/02/2024 - 11:13

+3

Can I recommend a Honda Jazz - such practical little cars. Lots of room on the inside too. Note the 2003-2006 models have issues with rusting catalytic converters, which is about a $300 fee to change it up all up.
kouk on 16/02/2024 - 10:50

+3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXFlc-rKu48
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsQuFUgLJEg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxNWS8fMHYg

Their website also has buyers guides on most popular models too.

I would look at these
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2007-honda-civic-vt…
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2008-mazda-6-classi…

if you feel like haggling a bit,
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2012-hyundai-i20-ac…
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2012-toyota-yaris-y…
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2011-hyundai-i45-el…
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2011-hyundai-i30-sx…
- ReaperX22 on 16/02/2024 - 11:09
  
  +1
  
  Redriven is a great resource for used cars. Gives a good rundown of what to expect to look out for, what might go wrong, what probably has already gone wrong. Ha.
- CantonasKungFuKick on 17/02/2024 - 10:58
  
  Thanks for the response, especially those YouTube links, they were a good watch
Boioioioi on 13/02/2024 - 16:09

+2

Mitsubishi mirage is pretty solid, I've got a few for around $5k (the 2013+ model) they have 5 star ancap safety and good fuel economy, extremely reliable too. Auto is a bit shit to drive though, I would try learn manual and get one of those if your budget is slim
brad1-8tsi on 13/02/2024 - 19:18

+2

The Cruze & Barina aren't great.

I love my VW product (on my third) but there's a reason I gave my kids the family Honda.

Getz, i30, i20, Kia Cerato, Camry, Mazda 323 or 3… All good

Cosider the Suzuki Swift or Ignis as well
ass3ts on 14/02/2024 - 09:39

+2

Spend more and get a newer car with a 5 star ANCAP rating and more airbags. Most people mention about their reliability and maintenance costs but not safety, you can always replace a car.
Kegsta on 14/02/2024 - 11:32

+2

Mazda 3 with under 200,000kms should be easy to find for under 5 grand.

The body work might be rusting a bit on the 15 year old versions but they are extremely reliable cars.

Whatever you buy make sure it's worth under about $5k as third party insurance is all you want for a first time driver and provides good coverage for a free hundred bucks compared to 2 grand for comprehensive on a $5k car.

Also sign them up for RAC roadside in your state so when they break down, run out of fuel etc they don't need to stress.
eddyah on 14/02/2024 - 11:39

+2
Awful list.

Should be limited to (ordered by smallest to largest):

Suzuki Swift

Honda Jazz

Mazda 3

Hyundai i30

Sedan for the mazda 3 will obviously be bigger but hatch versions are roughly the same IMO. i30 comes as a wagon though which can be useful / better than a sedan if space is a thing

At that range I'd stay away from anything with a Hybrid for battery fixing cost issues

Bigger cars drink more fuel as well which sucks for younger drivers

Help Me with a Shortlist of 1st Cars for My Son

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