Help Me with a Shortlist of 1st Cars for My Son

My son has been saving to buy his first car, we (I) do not know anything about cars so trying to get some help other than Google.

Budget is 8k
must be Automatic and based in SA
I'd rather he drove something smaller like a hatchback, but we have a list of several types

any thoughts, and if these are all terrible ideas, what should we be looking for?

He seems to like this one:

2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES CH Auto - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2004-mitsubishi-lan…

but this is our shortlist so far:

2009 Holden Cruze CDX JG Auto - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2009-holden-cruze-c…
2008 Volkswagen Golf Pacific V Auto MY08 - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2008-volkswagen-gol…
2007 Volkswagen Polo Match 9N Auto MY08 - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2007-volkswagen-pol…
2009 Holden Cruze CDX JG Auto - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2009-holden-cruze-c…
2009 Hyundai Getz SX Auto MY09 - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2009-hyundai-getz-s…
2010 Holden Barina TK Auto MY10 - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2010-holden-barina-…
2003 Toyota Camry Sportivo Auto - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2003-toyota-camry-s…
2013 Holden Cruze SRi-V JH Series II Auto MY14 - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2013-holden-cruze-s…
2011 Hyundai i30 SX Auto MY11 - https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2011-hyundai-i30-sx…

The plan would be to get a mechanic inspection done, but I hear stories where you pay for this and then the seller sells the car to someone else in the meantime, are there any tips/advice on how best to avoid this?

Is it better to go to a dealer and pay for a warranty, rather than Private?

any help appreciated.

Comments

      • +1

        I find modern manual so disconnected from the driving experience, without the handcrank to start it, or a manual choke - are you even driving? This thing for injectors just takes away from the learning and commuting experience ;)

        People who like manual cars are probably betetr able to cope with a higher task loading. On the one hand, limiting driving to only be available to those with a higher capacity to cope might be better - but that isn't the case, driving is available to the masses, and I'd rather people with limited task loading capacity be able to have cognitive loads like "basic situational awareness" than successfully operating clutch and shifter… as they fail to notice a pedestrian or car braking in front of them.

        • I'm not trying to imply it requires a bigger brain to drive manual because that would be somewhat mean, I'm more trying to say that when someone drives manual they become more mentally engaged with actually driving. Maybe it can be compared to something like reading a book instead of listening to an audiobook. You can listen to an audiobook and go for a walk at the same time, but that makes you prone to losing focus in case you see or hear something that distracts you, but when you read a book you have to actually hold the book, look at the words and read them. That's just how I feel when I drive auto vs manual.

          I'd rather people with limited task loading capacity be able to have cognitive loads like "basic situational awareness" than successfully operating clutch and shifter… as they fail to notice a pedestrian or car braking in front of them.

          I think a big part of it comes down to driver attitude also. I remember when I started learning, I knew that I could actually die on the road, so I went into it with that mentality which made me a focussed driver. These days it seems like if you give someone a green light they'll just go without considering that maybe there's a car that's about to run the red light and crash into them. It's like if the pedestrian crossing is green, it means you can cross, but it doesn't mean you shouldn't look left and right before crossing. If people have a poor attitude to driving and think that their safety is up to others (e.g. "I can drive how I want, others will look out for me and not crash into me") then they probably won't care about situational awareness.

          When I think about it more it's probably both my attitude to driving and the act of driving manual that makes me feel the way I do about it.

      • Did you come to this opinion yourself or just regurgitate it from /r/cars?

    • +2

      $8K, not $18K

      • +14

        they should be $8k, not $18k
        .

    • +1

      You'd be better off rolling the dice on used Hyundai.

    • -1

      Chinese shit!

  • +1

    hyundai elantra or i30 in this price range - e.g. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2008-hyundai-elantr…
    elantra/i30 may require a timing belt replacement depending on kms. that will probs eat up remainder of 8k budget if the above example needs it, but the 2.0l is otherwise pretty robust.
    consider also later model hyundai accent

    avoid anything european, holden, or with a dual clutch/automated manual transmission

  • +3

    Used car prices are through the roof! Many still think and act like car is an appreciating asset. These prices are not going to last long.

    • Yup, unlike housing where there is no incentive from people invested to have more houses and apartments built, because it will hurt their investment, cars are all made by overseas companies who want to make as many as possible. They do not see the car and chip shortage as a good thing at all and I bet factories and assembly lines are being built as fast as possible as we speak.

  • +45

    Hey I'm also SA-based and keep tabs on the used car market here. I'd honestly heavily recommend going the marketplace route to find the best prices

    It's currently quite common to find first gen Mazda 3's in the $2000-2500 range - especially if you're willing to check daily and be the first to contact sellers. As long as you exclusively look for the 2.0L model and not the 2.3L model these cars are rock solid (same suspension and engines as most of the 2nd gen Mazda 3's too!). Reliable, easy to find parts new and at scrapers, fairly fuel-efficient, etc. 180-250k on these cars is fine mileage as long as they've been looked after - if they have any major issues it's usually obvious and a mechanic will pick it up. Most importantly - they're easy to work on which is often not the case on many of these European models of the 2000's.

    The cost savings are worth it because one of the biggest things you actually need to be mindful of in buying older used cars is the thing that virtually nobody looks after: Suspension. You really much rather have a good $2500 car you put $500-1000 of suspension work into than paying $5k or more on a seemingly more "complete" low-mileage car.

    Why? Not just talking ride comfort here, your son is entering his most statistically dangerous driving period once he gets his P's and the difference between worn-out and fresh suspension is massive when he is making a sudden brake, cornering, trying to keep control on a wet road, etc. It's also a common failure point in all vehicles, engine mounts are worn which slowly kill your engine/transmission, it'll chew through tyres (which also matter for safety), often you'll encounter actual suspension failure which cost more to repair than the car is eventually worth, etc. Safety aside - reducing his odds of any dings or minor accidents is a wise financial decision.

    Anyways just food for thought - I understand the additional stresses of going through Marketplace isn't worth it for many people. That being said I'm a bit of an auto hobbyist and live in SA so honestly feel free to shoot me a DM if you'd like any guidance on anything. Whichever vehicle you end up purchasing, even if it has only done ~150k's I'd heavily recommend doing essential long-term maintenance work such as transmission fluid drain & fills, differential/gear oil change, brake fluid change, engine mounts, coolant, power steering fluid and throttle body cleaning + cleaning the Mass Airflow sensor. On the suspension front prioritise tyres and brakes - but definitely consider doing shock absorbers, struts and control arms, they're very important in maintaining control of the vehicle as well as reducing braking distance.

    Honestly extremely easy stuff to DIY and I'd be happy to help out for free if you needed - or just forward some good resources. Otherwise definitely consider finding a good mechanic to do those things for you. Trust me - these are essential pieces of maintenance that almost always pay for themselves and save you future headaches. I'd recommend looking up "ChrisFix" on YouTube to see how easy it is to do these things, it can be a great parent-son activity to do together too ☺️

    Good luck!! As others have pointed out - try to stick to a good Asian car: Toyota/Lexus, Mazda, Honda, Mitsubishi, etc. 5 minutes of googling usually lets you know if a model is good and what to look out for.

    I'd definitely recommend a Toyota Yarris too if you want something on the smaller side. Your son will appreciate the added fuel economy and maneuverability in the long run.

    • +8

      Probably the best comment here.

    • +3

      This is amazing advice, thank you. I'll definitely reach out, thanks again

      • +5

        All good! :)

        I think there's also a pretty good chance you can find some pretty low-mileage newer cars if you spend up to that 8k budget of yours. A lot of 2010's economy cars are just fundamentally more safer than even most cars from the 2000's. Chances are it'll cost the same in the long run with the added fuel efficiency too - that Mitsubishi Mirage others posted is a good example. New and low mileage enough to ignore any suspension concerns for a long time.

        I'll dm you some options like that later on :)

    • Out of curiosity, what's the issue with the 2.3l Mazda 3's? I had a 2005 SP23 that never skipped a beat. Wasn't off the road for anything except scheduled servicing in the 8 years I owned it. Except for that one time when they forgot to put the lid back on the brake fluid reservoir when they serviced it and I got the warning light a couple days later and had to get it towed back there :P But that's not the car's fault :P I would unreservedly recommend that car to anyone.

      But yeah, I agree completely I'd go for a Japanese car if looking for used in that age bracket. Other than my first 2 cars (old Fords which were the best my budget could do at the time) I've driven nothing but Japanese cars my whole life and not had any issues other than the clutch going on my Honda Prelude, but that's probably not unreasonable after 250,000kms.

      Just ordered my first ever German car a couple weeks ago, a BMW. Did so with some trepidation, but all the info I could find suggests that the B58 engine is pretty rock solid from a reliability point of view. But what actually gave me enough trust in it to go ahead was the fact that it's the same engine they put in the Toyota Supra. Obviously that's built by BMW, but the fact it's reliable enough for Toyota to put their badge on it gives me a bit of peace of mind.

      • +1

        you have to look pretty hard to find common problems with the b58. Most common is the pcv but if you look further and really dig, the baffles in the valve cover can fail. Oem is several hundred and chineseium is about 200.

        There is also the belt tensioner which I think got an update

        Only issue we had with the wifes car is a TPMS and chassis stability error after heavy, heavy rain. It doesnt happen after i powerwash the wheel arches and its rare enough that I wont go searching for an answer. 2, a weird chirping sound coming from under the car which only started last winter, only in the cold, and only a second or 2 after the car sits overnight. I only heard it once and thought it was cockatoos but a german guy got a 20sec long vid of his car doing it and wife confirms its the same noise. His dealer pinpointed it to the rear diff pinion seal/washer so ill just spray some magic spray next time im under there and wait until winter

        the xhp trans flash is ok, biggest thing is it will display gear while in drive, so d1, d2 etc instead of just D and the ability to use ECO shift points in any mode which can save a lot of fuel in city. only downside is the down shifts are later so there isnt as much engine braking although its smother overall. There is a lot you can change within the software

        Only thing we both dont like is the throttle lag, I have a flash ready to go but I need to find some time to do some logs with the factory tune before I flash it but it should get rid of the delay they programmed into it. Im undecided if I want to put a down pipe on it

        • I know the 2020 M340i had a common issue with the oil pump that has since been fixed in later years. That's the only real repeated concern I encountered doing a fair bit of trawling the internet over the past year. Any other issues seemed isolated enough to not be a common issue with the car. I didn't notice any real throttle lag when I test drove it, but obviously a test drive isn't going to give you as much insight as actually living with the car. I probably wouldn't even consider risking any mods or tunes etc until after the warranty period.

          My concern is more to do with the excessive amount of tech in the car which is a whole bunch of extra stuff that can go wrong. But all new cars these days seem to be like that, so in that regard probably doesn't matter too much what car you get. But mechanically, at least, I'm pretty confident in the car. And I've got 5 years warranty and 5 years servicing include so won't have to spend anything on it in that time other than the consumables. If it does give me trouble in that time then I'll probably change to something else when the warranty expires. I hope I don't have any issues, though, because I absolutely fell in love with the thing when I drove it (had 2 test drives before deciding to go ahead)… just such a beautiful car to drive. I'm looking forward to having it for many years to come.

    • strange how people seem to be advocating for "quality Asian made cars", but then have kittens over BYDs etc…

      • +5

        Because it is easier to say Asian cars when they mean Japanese and Korean cars (and not Chinese). Probably better to be more specific to avoid confusion.

    • I'd definitely recommend a Toyota Yaris too if you want something on the smaller side. Your son will appreciate the added fuel economy and maneuverability in the long run.

      I drove various models of the Yaris for more than 10 years as a courier and I have trouble recalling more than a couple of breakdowns in any of the vehicles at the base during that time (approx 10-12 cars on the road on any day for up to 12 hours per day).
      As long as they are maintained they just kept on going.
      Also pretty light on fuel even when driven by a varied collection of couriers. Plenty of vision for the driver and easy to park anywhere.

      Would make a great first car (and there's a couple on carsales that look reasonable right now).

    • 100% this. Marketplace for cars < $10k, carsales >= $10k.

  • +2

    Mitsubishi mirage is pretty solid, I've got a few for around $5k (the 2013+ model) they have 5 star ancap safety and good fuel economy, extremely reliable too. Auto is a bit shit to drive though, I would try learn manual and get one of those if your budget is slim

  • Diesel i30 is basically bulletproof, and very economical.

    • Came here to post this. Especially if you're doing highway driving

  • +1

    If you can get a Toyota, get a Toyota. Boring as hell but reliable and insurable. Usually good resale value as well, especially if someone else has already paid for most of the depreciation

  • -1

    Per @Boioioioi, 2015 Mirage ES 85K is the pick of the litter on Carsales https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2015-mitsubishi-mir…

    • +1

      1.2L rip but teen cant do stupid stuff in it in a hurry so win

      cvt run

  • Only get japanese or korean. Only get something you see lots of on the roads.

    Plus one for plenty of other comments anout never buying a cruze and aviding european becasue their oarts and servicing can be a lot more expensive than an equivalent popular model japanese or korean car.

  • +2

    The Cruze & Barina aren't great.

    I love my VW product (on my third) but there's a reason I gave my kids the family Honda.

    Getz, i30, i20, Kia Cerato, Camry, Mazda 323 or 3… All good

    Cosider the Suzuki Swift or Ignis as well

  • +1

    Mazda 3/323.

  • +1

    Suzuki Swift, or try and find a Suzuki SX4 sedan.

  • Stay away from Holdens or European cars for a first car…. Highly expensive for regular maintenance or repairs. Keep it simple. Not sure if u have explored used Hyundai excel as an option. There was plenty of them at one stage.. surely those ppl would be off-loading it by now

  • Steer clear from those except toyota.id go corolla first car,good reliable car and resale is always there

  • 2003 Toyota Camry Sportivo Auto I will pick. ( depend of the price )

  • If he's open to spending $7.5k he can go better than a 2004 Lancer.

    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2010-toyota-aurion-…

    Something like that is actually pretty good value. He'll get much beter use out of it than the Lancer.

  • +1

    In Australia, Japanese and Korean cars tend to be pretty economical because parts are generally easy to come by and servicing is fairly straightforward. I'd never recommend a Euro car for a first car - nothing incredibly wrong with them, but it's cheaper to run older Japanese/Korean cars in this country.

    • -1

      I'd never recommend a Euro car for a first car - nothing incredibly wrong with them

      plenty wrong with them

  • +2

    Spend more and get a newer car with a 5 star ANCAP rating and more airbags. Most people mention about their reliability and maintenance costs but not safety, you can always replace a car.

  • +1

    Lancer especially if he likes it anyway. As others have said it's too expensive. They're boring as batshit but reliable. That's what you want.

  • +3

    Also the Mitsubishi 380 might be worth looking at if he's cool with something a bit bigger -I had one as my first car and it was fantastic - they're quite cheap to buy now too

    • Just without aftermarket daytime lights..

      • What about chrome door handle covers? :p

        • +1

          They are approved.

    • +2

      A well maintained Magna is also a good option. The hard part is finding a well maintained one.

    • Apparently parts are getting difficult to find (read: expensive) due to the lack of sales and exclusivity to the Aus market. Also the one of the thirstiest cars around.

  • +10

    I'm surprised nobody has suggested this yet but whatever car you settle on ensure you do a check on the Personal Property Securities Register (PPSR) to see if there's any money owing on it. The last thing your son will want is a finance company coming to repossess his new pride & joy because some other d*ckhead didn't pay for it. They're normally $2 per report from the PPSR directly, but Budget Direct will give you up to 5 reports for free (at the cost of receiving spam from them for evermore, no doubt.)

    Additionally, ensure you check the rego at the SA Motor Registry to see if it's previously been defected or written off. While it's not technically illegal to see a 'repairable write-off' or a car that's had a defect fixed in most states the seller is supposed to make this abundantly clear at the time of sale. This is important to know when your son goes to insure the vehicle as it may (at best) affect the purchase cost of the policy or (at worst) deny coverage at all. Again, he doesn't want to be stuck with something he might not be able to drive at all. The SA Gov't has a web page with advice on what to look for when buying secondhand, including a link to the rego check page.

  • +1

    The good thing about the Getz is he can pass it on to his grandchildren when he's done with it.

    • Personally I wouldn't drive one of these if I valued my safety. Short, narrow wheelbase, high center of gravity, not much in the way of safety features and being small af = bad time if ever involved in an accident. I'd hate to be in one of these in a crash against even a midsized SUV.

  • +2

    Mazda 3 with under 200,000kms should be easy to find for under 5 grand.

    The body work might be rusting a bit on the 15 year old versions but they are extremely reliable cars.

    Whatever you buy make sure it's worth under about $5k as third party insurance is all you want for a first time driver and provides good coverage for a free hundred bucks compared to 2 grand for comprehensive on a $5k car.

    Also sign them up for RAC roadside in your state so when they break down, run out of fuel etc they don't need to stress.

  • +2

    Awful list.

    Should be limited to (ordered by smallest to largest):

    • Suzuki Swift
    • Honda Jazz
    • Mazda 3
    • Hyundai i30

    Sedan for the mazda 3 will obviously be bigger but hatch versions are roughly the same IMO. i30 comes as a wagon though which can be useful / better than a sedan if space is a thing

    At that range I'd stay away from anything with a Hybrid for battery fixing cost issues

    Bigger cars drink more fuel as well which sucks for younger drivers

  • +1

    rule out volks, go with any of the japanese

  • from the list I would probably go with the i30, the Lancer is okay too so either of those.

  • Theres no other answer besides camry…

  • +3

    the CH lancer as others have mentioned is quite overpriced. CH lancers also have a timing belt which requires changing at regular intervals. A newer CJ lancer is a better option as it has a timing chain and is a reliable and cheap to own car with better safety features. As other have commented stay away from the Holdens and VWs as they could be money pits.

  • +6

    DO NOT GET A CRUZE
    One of the worst engineered and assembled cars in all of existence.
    A couple of friends were unfortunate to buy them (because they were cheap for their age). Both ended up totalling them after the mechanics gave them >$5000 bills for transmission and engine issues. Both just handed their cars to the scrapyards for $1000 or something.

    Thanks for your time.

    • +1

      They were the modern day Camira.

  • +1

    Theres alot of junk on that shortlist. Best picks would be the Getz or Camry

    • This - Japanese or Korean

  • I got my son a 2010 Hyundai Getz as a first vehicle. It was a cracking little car until he wrote it off. I'd get one again - plenty around at good prices and cheap to run and fix. He now has a 2013 Holden Barina (which I think is a rebranded Daewoo). It's okay but not as good as the Getz IMO.

    • It was a cracking little car until he wrote it off.

      How did it go in a crash? and was he injured? Did it protect him (and any other passengers) well?

      • He crashed into a BMW M5 (value close to $250k!). It was his fault and he was on his own. The nature of the crash meant that the airbag did not deploy but he was okay. The Getz was beyond repair.

        • +1

          Ooft. Hope he had third-party property!

          • +3

            @kerfuffle: We had fully comp thankfully!

            • +2

              @R4: Well done; at least he got paid out for his Getz without too much fuss then (being his fault).

  • -2

    I know nothing about private jets, looking to get one, can anyone give a recommendation plz.

  • +1

    Honda Civic Type R

    • +1

      For 8K?

      • Base model with an R badge.

  • No Subaru suggestions?
    Had an Impreza auto wagon for my first car, picked it up for $3k, lasted me over 5 years, super reliable, fun to drive, wished it was a manual but it was practical and even got to trade it in.
    I think a smaller car is better for a first car. Unless he has lots of kms to do or needs to transport gear. If he is only doing short drives around the city, larger cars can become quite thirsty in traffic. The Sportivo is non-turbo 2.4L, I'm guessing they will sit just over 10L/100km in traffic. Euro cars also generally run at least on U95 so have to factor that into running costs on top of maintenance.

    • Good shout. There some nice Impreza configs out there in the second hand market at a decent price.

      I still swear by my trusty Corolla but a family member recently bought an Impreza after doing his due dilligence and it's a really nice car for the price. Better fuel efficiency than my Corolla as well (surprisingly!).

  • +2

    Mazda 3 is a good option. Got a 2011 model 3 years ago for my daughter for $8,500. Ironically possibly worth more now due to covid related second hand car inflation. Had 79k on it at the time of purchase and has been excellent.

  • -2

    Whatever you end up going for I would highly recommend buying a car with at least a 2.4L engine (e.g. CJ Lancer VRX, Mazda 3 SP25). Larger engines will consume more petrol but the extra power is extremely useful when you need to overtake on freeways or country roads. I've driven cars with 1.8L engines and the lack of power is noticeable.

    • +1

      What's noticeable is your inability to drive a car on the highway

  • I own a 2003 Camry as a beater car for parking in the city and shopping centres. 140,000ks is nothing on a 2003 Camry. I have one with 120.000ks and the only issue it’s ever had is an alternator dying on me

    The only neg I’ll give it is the turning circle is crap, and it’s not as sexy as something like a lancer.

  • Thats my pick, MY11 - 2011 Lancer, 150k, white paint, the clear coat tends to be ok on white. 8k asking price.

    Clean interior, better head unit than the earlier ones, factory wheels, no visible damage. Have a mechanic look it over but seems to tick the boxes. Good safety specs for its age too, 7 airbags, electronic stability control (it actually works pretty well too).

    Only downside is its the sportsback model, they are mechanically identical to the others though. Going manual does open up more options.

    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2011-mitsubishi-lan…

  • +2

    the newest, lowest km toyota corolla you can get

  • Accord Euro

  • Recommend stretching to models post 2013 as all have traction control as standard. Some models before this time may have it but not all so i would rule out any that don't have it. ESC is a crucial safety feature for young drivers as reduces the chances of them losing control of the car and sliding off the road.

  • Only the Lancer and the i30 are worth it and in that order. The newer i30s and Kias are pretty reliable generally and consistently were in the least breakdowns.

    When I worked for a car company they used this data to work out the marketing angle and see if they needed to up quality control. They angled it more premium and less emphasis on the quality. It's US data but the company used j.d power regularly as a source.

    https://www.usatoday.com/story/money/cars/2023/02/09/most-re…

    • Lancer is overpriced though, should be able to get a ~2008/9 updated facelift model for that money with slightly less km. But agree, apart from the odd wear and tear, and the infamous ABS issue for my 2008 Lancer, car has been rock solid, and touch wood has never broken down on me in the decade I've owned it. Only time it wouldn't start was a dead battery and it was the OEM original one!

  • -2

    TESLA

  • I really like the Mazda 2. But autos are way too expensive for what they are. I20/I30 would be my next choice. Later model Lancer would be good. I have always loved the styling of the Accord Euro. Silver/White would be the colour to get.

    I bought my mum a Fiat 500 a few years ago. The thing has been bulletproof. And it lives a hard life. Shes got a manual though.

  • Similar position as OP. Considering a 2007 Honda Civic VTI for my son (2nd year Ps) from an elderly family member who prefers we take it than it going to a stranger. Low kms approx 80K, great condition, always garaged, well serviced, new tires, no mechanical concerns & I expect low maintenance. No rego left. Price is up to me to offer so want to be fair but will leverage the family discount :-) so thinking around $6K. Just a bit concerned that safety features are only driver & passenger air bags and ABS. 4 star rating.
    Alternatively contribute same or bit more and son chip in for newer car but in current climate may need to go about 12K at best to get similar condition & low kms but will have greater risk of unknowns.
    Son is keen (as you'd expect as he saves his cash) on the Civic & I've suggested a defensive driving course would be good especial since he's only driven our cars with stability control.
    Thoughts appreciated.

    • +1

      Should be fine! Civic is reliable. I'm still running a 2008 Mitsubishi lancer (bought in 2014, put 100k on it), 4 stars as well, no fancy safety tech. TBH I personally think it's better they learn on cars with less tech! They'll learn more about situational awareness, they'll learn the size of their car without relying on sensors or cameras, etc. Let them scratch it up, let them dent it here and there. Then a few years down the track when they're fully licensed and experienced they can get whatever they want!

  • -3

    The most inexperienced drivers getting sent off by themselves in old bombs with minimal safety features by their parents.

  • The most convenient way is to find a car which you all like. Speak to the seller and organise a redbook pre-purchase inspection. Seller might ask for a small deposit to hold. Not sure about SA but in VIC all car transfer must be accompanied with a road worthy cert.

    With a redbook pre-purchase inspection plus the road worthy cert you can be pretty confident about not getting a lemon.

  • Stay away from those Holdens. I have some previous experience and they would mostly be lemons by now.

    I'd also consider adding something like a VW UP! to the list. I'm not sure of the price range, but they are extremely popular in the UK and have options for modifications if you want to go down that pathway.

  • LOL the prices
    paying a premium for a money pit

    These cars are worth about $2K to $3K each

  • +1

    a 20 year old car is not good man, especially if its not a toyota (i would say japanese but I don't think mitsubishi is reliable - I have a 23 year old nissan it's going well)

    Holden Cruze is a disaster - stay away

    Honestly I would keep saving until he has 10k at least, tell him to cycle for now

    • +1

      A 2003 Camry is fine if serviced right, like you said. Probably the only car in that list I'd suggest.

  • +3

    Can I recommend a Honda Jazz - such practical little cars. Lots of room on the inside too. Note the 2003-2006 models have issues with rusting catalytic converters, which is about a $300 fee to change it up all up.

  • Always recommend a Camry for a first car. This is no different. Great car to learn to use, safe to drive and easy to maintain.

  • i have 2013 holden barina……. horrific quality compared to my parents' 2008 toyota and my husband's 1990's toyota.

    • On the assumption there's nothing mechanically wrong with this vehicle, that's not a bad deal!

      • They’re very thirsty cars though, the fuel bill will be much higher than a small hatchback.

    • Cx7s are absolutely terrible cars, many many mechanical problems.

  • Hyundai i30
    Mazda 3
    Toyota Corolla (potentially stretch to a Camry)
    Honda Civic.

    Pick one of these.

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