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Gulf Western SYN-X 3000 10W-40 Engine Oil 5L $19.99 (Members' Price) + Delivery ($0 C&C/ in-Store) @ Autobarn

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Gulf Western SYN-X 3000 10W-40 Engine Oil 5L $19.99 (Members' Price) + Delivery ($0 C&C/ in-Store) @ Autobarn
Go to Deal
Cashback
pipster11 on 26/03/2025 - 18:02 autobarn.com.au (2252 clicks)
Last edited 26/03/2025 - 18:06 by 1 other user

Ozbargains favorite engine oil? Maybe
ATL? Not quite
Good deal? I think so

Create a free account, pay your $19.99 and 5 litres of golden coloured goo is all yours! ($49.99 for non-members)

SYN-X 3000 10W-40 is a premium blend synthetic motor oil suitable for most Australian, US, European and Asian engines calling for a SAE 10W-40 or 15W-40 engine oil with API SN/CF or earlier performance levels. It is formulated using a combination of synthetic and premium hydrotreated mineral base oils and a modern additive package meeting the API SN/CF and ACEA A3/B4 performance requirements. SYN-X 3000 10W-40 offers superior levels of protection against engine wear, excellent engine cleanliness by controlling deposit and sludge formation, superior cold flow performance and high operating temperature oxidation control. May also be used in motorcycles with wet clutch operation. SYN-X 3000 10W-40 is a highly versatile engine oil that can be used in a wide range of operating conditions including severe, modern stop-start driving conditions.

BENEFITS

Formulated with synthetic base stock ensuring cleaner engines, reduced engine wear and reduced oil oxidation.
Offers rapid start up flow that reduces cold start wear and has excellent thermal stability.
Recommended for most 4, 6 and 8 cylinder passenger cars manufactured from 1980 onward.
Recommended for Petrol, LPG and lightly loaded diesel engines.
It is suitable for turbo charged and super charged engines.

Automotive 10W-40 Engine Oil Gulf Western Oil

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closed Comments

  • rhino86 on 26/03/2025 - 18:15

    Hmm I haven't been to autobarn for many many years.
    Thank you pipster11 might have to check that product.

  • Mortin on 26/03/2025 - 18:20

    Any deal on 5w-40?

  • JSONBourne on 26/03/2025 - 18:32
    +7

    OzB favourite is Castro Edge 5W-30 not this.

    • JimB on 26/03/2025 - 22:48

      I came here to say this.

      Or was it Castro Edge Sport?

      Anyway, interesting that these days, new cars are more likely to use 0w20 than 5w30.

    • Shane034 on 27/03/2025 - 08:03
      +1

      This is a favourite for those of us who drive old clunkers. 5w 30 is too thin.

        • ghosta on 31/03/2025 - 19:51

          Which company do you use for your oil analysis tests? At $60- $80 per test, is it worth the extra cost when you have already tested a couple of oils that you are happy with?

      • ab c on 31/03/2025 - 20:08

        Miser-choice for a worn-engine 🤑

        For Gulf Western fans, I've being waiting many-months to RE-test GW 5W-30, but $40 on-sale is expensive, https://autobarn.com.au/ab/p/OA03183?

        5W-30 oil: I've way to test it & coming winter is perfect. These oil past my-test: Nulon Apex+, Castrol Magnatec Stop-Start & 0W-20, or lower. I haven't test all the 5W-30 PREMIUN-brand oil, lol.

        Used-oil-analysis: If anyone ask for this, pls fork out YOUR-money & provide YOUR-interpretations of YOUR test-results with details.
        If you're have REAL-life-experience (& NOT mere reading & youtubing), pls do share here-> https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/875625

  • ConsumerAffairs on 26/03/2025 - 18:44
    +4

    Cheap enough to buy to do a clean oil flush

    • ab c on 31/03/2025 - 21:01

      You implied poor quality & GW-fans have yet to respond…& a few up-vote too ?

      Gulf Western Oil: anyone with experience, be-brave & share your findings…I did & plan for RE-test it again…for the GW-fans.

      • Chocobros on 03/04/2025 - 00:04

        I have used this oil and it worked well in my old car.

        Castrol magnatec (full synth version) and edge made the engine feel better but this was by no means bad. I would use it again especially at this price

      • Chocobros on 08/04/2025 - 23:05

        I can't properly comment on the specifics you requested because I run fuel additives in most tanks (flashlube/lucas or additives similar with higher detergency or injector cleaner etc.) and some of this will get into the oil. With that in mind:

        • I found gulf western changed colour quicker to become darker (I'm not sure whether this can be a reliable measure of how old/used the oil is because from my understanding a good oil will scavenge and hold contaminants)
        • all oil flowed relatively well on drainage and no obvious sludge but my oil change interval never exceeds 7k kms (sometimes I change oil without changing filter at 3k kms if using additives with heavier detergents and typically have 5k km oci)
        • No varnish on dipstick or inlet where you pour oil in with any oils used (castrol magnatec fs, gulf western synx 3000, nulon fs)
        • ab c on 09/04/2025 - 02:12

          Old cars (loose-engine components): this oil is fine & more-expensive oil will make little differences: never exceeds 7k kms & additives.

          castrol magnatec fs, nulon fs 5W-30 or equivalent: the next time you use them, try stretching the km with constant-monitoring. You'll be surprise how much extra km you can travel before there're sign of bad oil degradation, including
          1.Feel engine braking: no-acceleration.
          2.Cold morning start 1st start, hear the louder engine sound, roughness & resistance to gentle acceleration in the 1st few minutes etc
          3.Dap used-oil via dipstick on a white A4 paper, record & monitor darker oil with aging
          4.etc etc

          Btw, you've progress beyond reading & are observing…getting closer to truth 👏

        • ab c on 09/04/2025 - 18:37

          For NEWER-engines (tight-engine components) & those who prefer water-like oil…NO & NOT-even GW 5W-30.

  • SYLTB on 26/03/2025 - 18:47
    -4

    Ozbargains favorite engine oil?

    Nope, it does not say like toyoto mazda kia nissan hyundai crap jap/kor cars or holden commodore or ford falcon
    might be this which covers all above crap https://www.nulon.com.au/products/engine-oils/apex-plus/apx5…

    • ab c on 09/04/2025 - 20:56

      APEX+ 5W-30 LONG LIFE (APX5W30D1): I like water-like quality of this oil & suitable for NEWER-engines (tight-engine components & low-kms). Likely on-sale ~ $35 soon-ish?

      Any expert would like to make an educated guess why many 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40 & thicker AGE-POORLY even with PREMIUM-brand.

      With NEWER-engines (tight-engine components & low-kms) the LOUDER engine-noise is a give-away during cold-morning 1st start < 5°C ? Hint, that LOUDER engine-noise is metal-rubbing-metal: likely hardware operating the valves, https://tech.240sxone.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/1-Valve…

      But hold-on many viscosity-charts tell us the above oil suppose work @ below 0°C, https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Viscosity/237/Wha…

      • ghosta on 10/04/2025 - 17:47
        -1

        A more relevant question might be why are you posting nonsense here? You dont appear to know anything at all about oil!

      • ab c on 11/04/2025 - 11:27

        I'm calling out @ghosta with his multi-OzBargain-ID. The proof is in his comments, https://www.ozbargain.com.au/comment/16391053/redir.

        When you buy Nulon APEX+ 5W-30 or similar, you're getting a HIGHER-blend of Group-III base-oil which has a HIGHER-Viscosity-Index. Simply put: @ 100°C Group-III blend base-oil don't thin out as much & hence need LESS 'viscosity index improver' (thickener).

        Using NEWER-engines (tight-engine components): you CAN hear LOUDER-engine sound @ COLD-morning 1st start below 5°C using a LOWER-quality oil: less of Group-III blend, say Nulon X-PRO 5W-30 XPR5W30-5.
        LOWER-quality base-oil AGE-POORLY & due to HIGHER-blend of Group-II base-oil &/or higher% of 'viscosity index improver' (thickener) breaking down faster. You can feel this when oil is 6+ months old in any air-temp.

        Source: note year of publication, who published it & it's a science-journal, https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/98…

        Btw, if you drive a MANUAL you can FEEL feel more-of engine-braking compare to auto-transmission & MORE-noticeable in COLDER air-temp.

        @ghosta is an expert-critic referencing BobIsTheOilGuy but can't read beyond the many claims & get loss in the mass of information. He lacks real-world experience testing engine oil & manufacturer-claims: in which decade did he started changing engine oil for-friends & has he played with modified ICE outputting 200KW…older turbos' ball-bearings were cooled by engine-oil & NOT-coolant 🧐🤣

        • ghosta on 11/04/2025 - 17:00

          What a fool you are posting this crap. You have no idea at all about oils. What a weopon you are!

  • zsygym on 26/03/2025 - 19:06

    Is it difficult to change engine oil myself? what tools would I need? And where to dump the old oil?

    • Jamesooo on 26/03/2025 - 19:21
      +1

      Totally depends on your car. Most cars you can get away with a single spanner to undo the sump plug under the oil pan, some cars you'll need an oil filter wrench if the filter is in an inconvenient spot.
      Collect the old oil into a tray, pour it into the bottle from the fresh oil when you're done and take it to any auto parts store, they usually have abin at the front to dump old oil into.

    • Shane034 on 26/03/2025 - 19:29
      +1

      YouTube ;)

    • rhino86 on 26/03/2025 - 21:19
      +3

      Plus: Warm the engine before hand. Not hot.
      Sometimes a oil filter clamp, or a screw driver if you cant get it off and do not need the old oil filter.
      Grease or oil on the sump plug before tightening.
      Funnel for pouring oil if you can't pour it from the container.
      Clean rags to check the dipstick, wipe around the components.
      Lay cardboard or thick paper down in case any oil is split.

      • JimB on 26/03/2025 - 22:51
        +1

        How doesn’t like to burn their hand with hot oil?

        If you haven’t changed oil before, make sure you also use a new crush washer and check there’s no leaks from the sump plug.

        ‘ Grease or oil on the sump plug before tightening.’

        I think you mean oil filter rubber o ring.

        • ab c on 09/04/2025 - 19:31

          new crush washer

          I've always RE-use washer.

          Consider using just-enough torque to avoid oil-leak. The size of the sum-plug is a guide to the torque needed: VW Golf-GTI Mark6 has a larger-head & hence MORE-torque is needed to stop oil-drip, learnt the hard-way, lol.

          Use a socket, not adjustable-spanner & avoid rounding edges of sump-plug-head.

          Some cars, the washer is attached to sum-plug & can't be remove.

          If there's still minor oil leak, or missing-washer, consider using HARD-Red-Fibre-Washer, https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcRI8J…

          • skillet on 11/04/2025 - 15:36

            @ab c: I haven't seen those paper/fiber washers for more than two decades now. I always used copper washers. If you like recycling(why not) just anneal them with heat then they are soft again ready for service. If you torque them just right you can reuse the copper washer for many years. If it leaks, tighten up another 5-10Nm, that will always form it to perfect the seal. They are quite cheap, you can get a variety box under $15.

            For those VW washers attached to the sum-plug you can always cut the washers and replace with copper. Reuse the sump bolt if it's not too rounded.

            Copper pretty much compatible with aluminium and iron so there will be no galvanic corrosion.

            If you are fortunate enough to have a newer car equip with an unfortunately plastic sump and plastic sump plug, I recommend changing the o-ring to avoid oil leaks. I recommend Nitrile o-ring it has better resistance against engine oil.

            • ab c on 12/04/2025 - 10:43

              @skillet: Very informative & your comments suggest that you've got your hand dirty many-times & not just from reading, lol.

              I thought I suggest something that works & are often lying around the garage for the DIY-plumbers. OzBargainers are frugal, $5 savings generated 252+ up-vote-> https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/894939

    • DarwinBoy on 26/03/2025 - 22:18
      +1

      Look at YouTube videos of your specific car having an oil change for the tools required.
      Whatever they cost is irrelevant as you will make back the cost of them in one or two changes.
      My local dump allows oil to be dropped off.

    • Monad on 27/03/2025 - 00:53

      Also check the oil is compatible with your car: https://www.gulfwestern.com.au/lube-desk/

      Don't forget the oil filter, genuine manufacturer, Ryco, Sakura or Wesfil are good brands.

      This is a great beginner's guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1hF25Cowv8

      • JimB on 28/03/2025 - 15:39

        Ryco, Sakura or Wesfil wouldn't be my first choice for an air or oil filter but it's better than not changing it.

        I'm happy to use other brands for cabin filters but only use OEM, Mann, Mahle or Hengst for my oil or air filters.

        Mann, Mahle or Hengst are sometimes cheaper than Ryco, Sakura or Wesfil at SCA.

    • brad1-8tsi on 27/03/2025 - 15:17
      +1

      Is it difficult to change engine oil myself? what tools would I need? And where to dump the old oil?

      Difficulty depends on the vehicle and how mechanically capable you are. eg: My BIL is a great carpenter but he would totally botch an oil change.

      You'll need a safe method to get under the car.
      Something to catch the oil with
      A suitable tool to remove the engine undertray.
      A tool to remove the sump plug.
      A tool to remove the oil filter.
      A funnel to assist in refilling the engine oil.
      Any other tools or parts needed to carry out a service as there's more to it than just oil & filter.
      Consumables like rags, hand cleaner, etc

      I put my oil back into an empty oil container and take it back to SCA or the local council Saturday waste drop-off or Community Recycling centre.

  • SYLTB on 26/03/2025 - 19:20

    If oil filter just under the bonnet and find difficult to go under the car then buy oil extractor like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356647350241 or from AE or a used one on GT.
    Dump the old oil to SCA they accept them free or even they offer $5 bucks sometimes.

    • Jackson on 26/03/2025 - 20:14
      +3

      I understand why people buy these but personally I wouldn't use one. I don't think it would be as effective at getting out all the contaminants as letting gravity do its job and run everything out of the lowest point of the sump where the junk would be collecting. Happy to stand corrected if someone's done some actual research on it

      • rooster7777 on 26/03/2025 - 20:30

        The existence of magnetic sump plugs leads one to the best way of draining oil… out of the bottom.
        Not from research…. just my version of cdf :)

        • rhino86 on 26/03/2025 - 21:22
          +1

          I place neodymium magnets on my oil filters ) two of them makes a smile at the bottom.

      • SYLTB on 26/03/2025 - 20:41
        -1

        I do it alternatively at every second oil change i.e. one sump plug, the next one extraction. It is as effective as sump plug. At first, I was skeptical about it too, but it really sucks all contaminants better than gravity drainage does. It is just physics.

        • rooster7777 on 26/03/2025 - 21:58
          +3

          It's physics that particles that sink to the bottom of an oil pan defy gravity and levitate up as the oil is sucked out?
          Very different physics to the newtonian stuff I was taught.
          Should I be asking the maintainers of expensive equipment if I should do that?
          ahem

          • SYLTB on 27/03/2025 - 08:06
            -1

            @rooster7777: I see you have no idea about the physics, i.e. negative suction physics. so you did/do not deserve an answer. This also shows your low literacy and numeracy skills. Good luck!

      • skillet on 27/03/2025 - 10:00
        +1

        A lot of Euro dealers employ extractors to free up hoist time. Insert the hose, turn on the pump, set the timer and walk away to do other stuff. Hands won't be covered in oil and less likely oil spill. The car in service only need 5 minutes on the hoist for those 'inspections' if brake fluid change is not required. It saves a lot of time and also generate plenty more income for dealers doing servicing jobs.

      • brad1-8tsi on 27/03/2025 - 15:21

        extractors are all the rage on a VW forum I'm on. They leave about 50ml in the sump of a VW EA888 which I thinks acceptable and a lot easier than removing the undertray.

        • Jackson on 27/03/2025 - 21:59

          You don't have to convince me that it's easier, I get it. The questions is that it's likely that's the worst 50mL that's being left

          • brad1-8tsi on 29/03/2025 - 18:21

            @Jackson: If you've run the engine beforehand then fine particles will be in suspension. Anything else should be in the filter.

            If you are getting chunks out in the last 50ml then the engine hasn't been maintained properly anyway.

            • Jackson on 30/03/2025 - 00:59

              @brad1-8tsi: Yeah maybe, what we need is someone to grab that first bit of oil and send it to be tested, and then grab the last bit and have that tested and see the difference. Without that knowledge all we have is raw probability, if it doesn't materr it doesn't, and if it does it does.

              • brad1-8tsi on 30/03/2025 - 09:49

                @Jackson: That's pretty much what one of the dudes on the VW forum has done. He races his car a dozen times a year and it's quite modified On a properly maintained engine it was close enough not to worry.

                I wouldn't do it on my Pajero Sport because the low point is nowhere near the dipstick and I have to take the bash plates off to change the filter.
                On our Alltrack where the filter is on top and the stupid plastic sump plug is prone to leakage when disturbed - no issues.

    • ab c on 31/03/2025 - 20:11

      FACT-checking oil-extractor effectiveness: after you're done with this tool, consider jacking up your car @ a SLIGHT-angle, with
      1.Oil-sump-plug being the LOWEST-point, more used-oil extraction by gravity.
      2.More used-oil drain-OFF from FLAT-surfaces inside your engine.

      See how much USED-oil come-out?

      Enthusiants: AFTER the above & heaven-forbid: sacrifice say 1L of NEW-GW-oil as a flush, https://www.ozbargain.com.au/comment/16379646/redir
      Look at the colour of FLUSHED-used-oil?

      Feel free to share your REAL-life experience.

  • Toffcuz on 26/03/2025 - 19:24

    i cant get the 19.99 price mine is still stuck at 49.99 even though im a member

    • StuBalls on 26/03/2025 - 19:50
      +1

      have you logged in to the website?
      It worked for me 1 minute ago.

      • Toffcuz on 26/03/2025 - 20:09
        +3

        thats weird, i had to log out then log back in, but now it works thanks

  • Daddy Chill on 26/03/2025 - 21:33

    Are these good for bikes

  • Javascripter1 on 26/03/2025 - 21:41

    Thanks OP. Bought 3 for my oil burning corolla.

    • aussieprepper on 27/03/2025 - 03:37

      What year Corolla? Is the valve cover leaking?

      • Javascripter1 on 27/03/2025 - 06:38
        +1

        03 1zz engine with 305,000km. Already did the valve cover recently but it's still (profanity). I know there's leaking around the timing cover as well. Probably worn piston rings to be honest.

  • Theek on 26/03/2025 - 23:26

    Website seems broken and won't let me check out lol

  • Sirajs on 27/03/2025 - 00:40

    Isn't Castrol better than this, that's full synthetic

    • Monad on 27/03/2025 - 01:01

      Any full synthetic from a mainstream manufacturer is better than semi synthetic. But better than Gulf Western full synthetic? I doubt it.

      • Sirajs on 27/03/2025 - 01:55
        +1

        This just says synthetic, doesn't way full synthetic or semi. is it full synthetic? Is gulf western good brand?

        • Monad on 27/03/2025 - 10:10
          +2

          No the SYN-X 3000 is not full synthetic. Sorry, I mean the SYN-X 5000, 6000, 7000. If you go by the recommended oil for your car per the car or oil manufacturer, it has to have certain standards and additives to suit the engine: API, ACEA etc.

          https://www.gulfwestern.com.au/lube-desk/

          What is marketing and what is actual quality oil?

          Gulf and Western is an Australian company, just like Penrite.

          I usually use Gulf and Western oil. I get my oil when it's on special, so sometimes I get Nulon or Shell etc.

          Most important thing is to change the oil regularly, unless it's a performace car or a modern car needing synthetic, semi synthetic is fine. Even non-synthetic is fine if it meets your car's standards.

        • StuBalls on 27/03/2025 - 10:13
          +1

          It is a bit misleading. This one is semi-synthetic / part-synthetic. Their full synthetic ones have "full synthetic" on the bottle.
          Yeah, I'd say Gulf Western is decent. I've been using this exact oil in 4 different vehicles lately and no issues.

    • skillet on 27/03/2025 - 10:05
      +2

      Use the approved oil for your car and change it when the schedule is up. Don't worry about full synthetic or fake synthetic.

  • Secret ID on 27/03/2025 - 04:42
    -1

    Although it's got Gulf Western in the title, looking at the image I was thinking it's Nulon the whole time, until I clicked on it.

    • skillet on 27/03/2025 - 10:11

      I would rather buy from GW or Hi-Tec Oils.

      • jc209964 on 27/03/2025 - 19:14

        And Penrite?

      • JimB on 28/03/2025 - 15:41

        Why GW or Hi-Tec over Nulon?

        • jc209964 on 28/03/2025 - 17:08

          Nulon hasn't been Aussie-owned for like 5 or 6 years now.

          • JimB on 29/03/2025 - 12:52
            +1

            @jc209964: Oh didn’t realise.

            I still would buy it. It’s still made in Australia but is owned by Fuchs who know a few things about oil.

            Made in Oz is more important than being owned by a foreign company.

  • sillyhead on 27/03/2025 - 08:12
    +2

    This is a very handy weight to have around. Especally for motorcycles or small OHV engines. Through pretty much suitable for any motor without a DPF really. I don't think there is anything wrong with the gulf western brand.

    • skillet on 27/03/2025 - 10:19

      Nothing wrong with GW they are just not as sharp when it comes to Advertising and Marketing compared to Nulon. You can't go wrong with a lubricant manufacturer and supplier that involves heavily in the mining industry.

  • ghosta on 27/03/2025 - 12:04

    Autobarn website is totally (profanity) today, hope tbeycanfixit

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