It's finally on sale! I have been waiting for this for DIY car maintenance.
All Time Low?
It's pretty heavy. Aluminium alternatives any good?
ToolPRO Low Profile Garage Jack 3000kg $235.99 + Delivery ($0 C&C/ In-Store) @ Supercheap Auto
510
Tim Mc on 03/05/2025 - 09:08 supercheapauto.com.au (1935 clicks)
Last edited 03/05/2025 - 09:21 by 1 other user
Last edited 03/05/2025 - 09:21 by 1 other user
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Agree. It's a solid unit.
Height ok?
I not lazy like you so I clicked on the Go to Deal link and flick two scroll down with my right index finger and use my eye and brains in expense of a few calories this is what I got…
Height Lowered: 112mm
Height Raised: 505mm
Mine has had the shit abused out of it and still works like a champ. Great value lift.
Verbal or physical?
Both if things aren't going to plan (which is the majority of the time).
how much weight?
Yo mama
Which is about 3000kg metric
42Kg
Sorry, 3042Kg*
Don't forget the car stands. They are reduced as well.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-car-stan…
Oh! I just bought 4x SCA pin stands the other day
Pin > Ratchet
A few people have said that Pin is better than Ratchet from a safety perspective. So I went with Pin. It was a bit cheaper too.
Ratchet might be convenient?
@Tim Mc: Yeah, ratchet is easier to use, but the ratcheting mechanism could fail which has happened to some stands.
Definitely pin > ratchet
Reviews on these don't look good - seems to be a bit of an issue with poor welding which doesn't instil confidence.
Luke was kind enough to write a review before he started the job the following morning in case he didn't make it. Hope he did survive …
https://ibb.co/r2C817KLBricks are $1.30 each, or free from you local building site.
They're also more versatile.
Do I need 2 of this jack for serving the car?
Depends what your servicing.
Jack it up on the diff and you're golden on both sides.
But no you don't, you jack the car up and put stands under then move the jack. You need stands just in case you forget to tighten the valve properly and this starts going down
I get what you are saying but this is poor advice. Yoz don't want to go under a car propped by just one lift. Ideally put it on stands and take the weight off the lift. Can leave it there for extra security but not loaded. Also good idea to pop a tire under the car but it is not a full safety guarantee as the car still drops low enough to crush you.
Yep 4 stands is the way to go if you dont have acces to hoist or pit.
@freeradical: I never had any issues with just two stands, 4 stands is just extra time if you are only changing the oil
100% never get under a car supported by just a jack - even a top end one (which this isn't).
A dozen or so folks die every year in Australia from doing this and must be a nasty death - don't let it be you.
You're already saving a boatload of $$$ doing DIY, don't cheap out not springing for a few stands that will last your lifetime!
@Daniel Plainview: For things like an oil change on a small car, back in the day I'd borrow ramps. That was decades ago. What's the thinking on those these days.
For my own car, it's high enough off the ground for me to crawl under there to access the sump plug and inspect bushings, gaskets, etc.
If I had to work on a small car again, diy oil changes mainly, I was thinking those plastic ramps as I might only need to raise the front end up 4 inches or so.
Genuinely interested in what's the safest option as I'm a little concerned getting under a car supported by just stands with no failsafe. Or stands and some old hardwood blocks under the front tyres.
@mrhugo: Yeah same. If you can crawl, there is literally no need to jack the car to change oil. It's slightly cramped but defo doable and much safer also.
@Naigrabzo: I recently had a look at the Mazda 3, and the filter and plug were conveniently located in cut out in the splash tray… How good is that.
Only down side was that I had no way to get under there, I need a few more inches off the ground. That's why I feel those plastic ramps seem like a good idea. The metal ones I borrowed, stored under a house were a bit rusty, but being a teen I'd never thought twice about that.
I have no idea if cars these days are designed for ease of service, but my old small Nissan's in the day had the filter right in the middle of the block , firewall side. So you had to crawl in 2/3 off the way and somehow slide your hand in while trying to get enough purchase to unscrew the filter that was definitely NOT hand tight.
@mrhugo: If it's just oil changes, an oil extractor which sucks the oil out of the dipstick tube.
No need to raise car at all so long as can get to the oil filter easily enough.
I sure do miss when I had access to a hoist, but to be fair the extractor is probably still easier as far as the oil change part goes.
9L extractor is about $60 on Amazon
Manual is fine, I have a 6L manual/pneumatic but connecting to a compressor turned out to be a waste of time. Manual was faster, a few pumps every now and again and let the vacuum do its thing.
@bamzero: Isn't a bad suggestion but the extractor pumps will never remove as much of the oil as manual draining and all the crap at the bottom of the engine will often be left behind. There's articles which cover the pro's and con's of either method - I strongly prefer the manual drain option.
https://humblemechanic.com/draining-engine-oil-vs-extracting…@Daniel Plainview: Sure, each to their own. I've been using on our cars for years without issue.
At the end I move the hose around a little to let it slurp up anything left behind, which is so minimal I don't think it matters (can hear the hose tapping on the oil pan which rings out with that empty sound if you know what I mean)
Not sure why that guy would be using it on a cold engine. Engine should be warm so oil is less viscous (and crap mixed). I'd also argue that any crap that had settled on the bottom of the pan isn't necessarily going to drain better out of the plug. It's either stuck there and not going anywhere, or free enough to move with the oil. Anything that is left behind, thats what oil filters are for.
I guess I should add our cars are 17 and 12 years old but who knows on newer ones, sometime design changes are just stupid and make servicing hard…
Nothing do with tightening the valve, everything to do with the fact that hydraulics fail, and wheels move.
Since you are asking this question I kindly suggest you leave the servicing to a mechanic.
Or find someone who knows what they are doing to do everything with you, if you have a sensible mate who knows what they are doing
Check the manual for your car to find: front and rear jack points; hardened points along each side of the vehicle for stands.
Check the weight of your vehicle and make sure that jack and stands can cope with it.
Loosen the lug nuts of each wheel if you're doing it by hand. You don't want to attempt to loosen and tighten the lug nuts completely when it's on stands (increased risk of something going wrong).
Make sure your vehicle is on a flat surface and that there is sufficient space to move the handle of the jack to lift the vehicle. You'll want enough clearance so that you don't hit your vehicle with the bar (i.e. the jack might not reach the mount point at the rear trolley jack isn't pushed far enough under the vehicle).
Use a jack to raise the front via the front mounting point. Raise the vehicle just high enough for the stands to fit under the correct mount points. When twisting the handle to lower the jack, be careful to ensure that the stands are lined up properly and try to go slow. The vehicle might drop quickly.
Similar approach for the rear of the vehicle. Use the correct mount point for the jack. Raise the vehicle.
I'm not an expert so read the manual and seek more advice :-D
Hey Tim Mc. Thanks for the positive and informative post. This is good to see rather than "why don't you go to a mechanic". People can learn from helpful comments like this.
So my take on it all, is never have a single point of failure. These jacks are great, but I don't 100% trust my life to any jack. I always jack, jack stands, then take the weight off the jack so the car is sitting on the jack stands, but I leave the jack in place and raised up.
That way I have redundancy/no single point of failure. The weld on the crappy jack stand can go, and the car will be supported by the jack.
I had one of these jacks in the past and found it to be really good. Good luck in your servicing/maintenance..
A mate came over the other weekend and we had a go at changing the oil in my Corolla and rotating the tyres. He brought his aluminium ToolPro jack that be bought years ago.
I've been driving since I was 11 on a farm but didn't do a whole lot of maintenance on the Sunbird back then. We had fun getting it unbogged from mud with a ute and chain but yeah.
I ended up buying some cheap socket sets, 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrenches.
This Neiko set was $33 the other day (probably a pricing error):
https://www.amazon.com.au/Neiko-02471A-Standard-Extension-Ad…The Nm is too high on the 3/8" for the oil drain plug (only needed 25 Nm). The "click" is less obvious at lower torques so you've got to be careful not to overtighten.
There are oil filter adapters with 1/2" inner part or 27mm outer part specific car models. This helped with getting the oil filter cover off so that I could replace the filter. The adapter got stuck on the cover. I ended up knocking it off with the back of a wrench.
If you ask about torque wrenches you'll probably get told "Pfft, I just go by feel". Uh, huh. And that's why the lug break off at a service centre and then they try to make me pay for it ("It's just wear and tear").
For an oil filter change I ended up getting:
5L Castrol Edge 5W-30 A3/B4 for $39 when SCA price beat Autobarn
Oil tray for $15 from SCA to catch the oil
Toyota oil filter for $22 from a Toyota service centre
Toyota oil drain plug gasket for $2 from a Toyota service centreFor the tyre rotation I bought a 900mm 1/2" breaker bar from SCA and followed the manual (rear tyres are swapped to the front by going diagonally, while the front tyres go directly back to the rear).
I left the jack under the car but lowered it a bit so that the weight of the car was on the stands. Also gave the car a few hard bumps first to see if it'd move.
I was hoping the engine crane would go on special this catalogue. :(
Costco Aluminium jack is a cheap alternative. lifted Ev without an issue.
link please.
how heavy is your EV?I don't have an EV, but my 2000kg aluminium jack lifts my 4wd corner by corner with no issues, and it generally weighs around 2500kg. It has also been used to jack up other vehicles with centre jack points and caravans weighing up to 3.5t, including ones with leaf suspensions where you are jacking up an entire side at once. That's heavier than any EV you'd have.
thanks
Thank you!
Been waiting for this
Great dealI have a steel 3T jack that is similar to this, and it's great, solid, big lift height, dual piston. Can't fault it, but if I were to be honest I would have been better off with an aluminium one. These are heavy as buggery and I would only recommend them to people who are going to just work int heir garage and/or driveway and their driveway is relatively flat. If you have a sloping driveway or are thinking of taking it on the street even, it's a pain.
A 2T aluminium one (or even smaller maybe) is going to be much more versatile for the vast majority of people, and take up less space,a nd do the job just fine. I bought mine because it was on sale at Autobarn for 79 bucks, at that price it's impossible to pass up.
For reference mine is the extreme garage one
Few of these will lift up the super cheap Reno out the back of my house that was done in the 70s right?
Heads up that toolpro jacks have been. Subject to a number of safety recalls over the past few years.
Always use jack stands.
Thanks OP. It's actually been as low as $179.99 before but I'm convinced we will never see that price again.
6 years ago???
when AVOCADO TOAST WAS $2????Yes. This is still a great deal and I have upvoted. Just pointing out it has been historically cheaper and then has risen in price over time as most things have.
What hydraulic oil do you use for it?
My floor jack was pretty much full of hydraulic oil.
The Arcan from Costco is $34 more and rated 2000kg but has a min height of 78mm (!) vs 112 for the ToolPRO. Worth considering if you need to go low. Personally we use a 1500kg aluminium Arcan from years ago for all types of cars at home including 4WDs and have never come across one that couldn't be lifted. Would probably go the current steel Arcan over the ToolPRO. On a side note for those considering aluminium jacks, they tend to flex ALOT if weight isn't square and/or your driveway isn't completely flat.
Do you need this for ev?
This + Tesla jack pads (plugs) + 3 tonne stands for rotating the tyres every 10,000 km.
42kg is crazy.
I bought a mechpro 2000kg one recently that weighs 27kg, and that is a slog.
These (even the mechpro 2000) really are a different league to the common 1400-1800kg jacks.
It's heavy AF. I should've asked a staff member to help lift it. Oh, well. It's in the garage now.
i'd pay for delivery in this case
It doesnt have a carry handle in the centre either
Thanks got one. Need to replace the brakes and rotors.
Will this get me a job for at least Haas or something?
This is the resolution to all disputes in communal parking.
"Starting at a height of only 112mm this jack is perfect for low vehicles" , not low enough :(
Consider the Arcan a few posts up.
It just fits under my Corolla 🥵
This is the second jack I've owned. First was a cheapie from deal.com.au or something and got busted up pretty quickly..this has been solid and is low enough for my lowered e63. End of the day, you shouldn't need anything lower. If you have an issue, chuck some timber down to get a little extra clearance
had one before, it is really heavy…… its ok if you store it at where you work, but get a aluminum one if you need to move it around
Is it good enough to lift Toyota Kluger from front in one go
Or i need to lift one side at a time?Will do one go easily.
Just in time for Mother's day. Thanks bought 2 .
Its heavy and it doesnt have a carry handle?
carry handles would make it seem like one person can carry it
if it is TOO HEAVY, it is a 2 person job and they don't want your liability 🙂↔️
I have had this for many years, it's solid but paid like <$200 for it
Pretty heavy as you would expect a 3t jack to be since it's not made of Alu
I have the for my lifted GQ patrol. Works really well and for $235 it's a steal.