Replacing Halogen with LEDs - Some Questions

Hi guys,

I'm replacing halogens with LEDs at my place, and getting plug bases installed.

I've had couple of electricians come out to give quotes. Keen to get some thoughts on the below.

  1. What are some good brand options for LEDs (I don't want flickering and/or glare issues, good warranty etc.)? Have had electricians suggest Voltex, 3a, and SAL. But they can be flexible so keen to get your thoughts. What about Clipsal?

  2. Is there a sweet spot for watts? I was thinking 7-9W?

  3. I have couple of dimmers working well with existing halogens. Will I need new dimmers compatible with the new LEDs, or should existing dimmers work? One electrician said existing dimmers should be fine, another said I will need new dimmers.

Anything else I need to watch out for?

Poll Options

  • 3
    Philips DN029B G2 LED8/CCT PSR-E D90 CAU
  • 1
    Atom AT9039
  • 1
    Clipsal TPDL1C3
  • 0
    SAL ECOGEM S9041TC
  • 0
    SAL WAVE S9065TC

Comments

  • +3

    12V or 240V halogens? Are you able to keep the existing frames and swap over the bulbs?

  • -3

    I did a full change over and I regret it.

    The story is that LEDs last longer, which may be true, but what doesn't last longer is the housing, the electronics, and everything that comes along with it. Seriously, it's all a scam. My LEDs have failed regularly since I put them in.

    For some reason I keep buying more LEDs because I am not very good at taking my own advice. I somehow have emotionally convinced myself that there is actually a good quality LED out there if only I can find it.

    Also, I have never found an LED, no matter how "warm", that comes close to matching the warmth of a halogen bulb. Seriously, if you like warm light stay away from LEDs.

    There is no sweet spot for wattage, but guaranteed they never feel as bright as anything they're replacing.

    Dimmers may work, but it depends on the bulb you buy. Not all LEDs are dimmable. It will explain what they are capable of on the packaging.

    Best advice I can give you is make sure that you get all DIY (plug) bases, which you are doing, because you'll be replacing them at the same frequency over time as you were replacing your old school light bulbs.

    Personally, if I were going for a full change over again, I'd do 100% smart everything, in which case you can just dim the buggers with voice commands or an app.

    I have never had either flickering or glare and I've installed everything from premium full housing units to cheap Ali Express down lights. I'm not even sure what these problems might look like.

    • +12

      All the LEDs in my house are 8 years old with a grand total of zero failures.

      • I agree. I used to have those round fluorescent bulbs/tubes inside my ceiling oyster lights and they'd need replacing between 7-12 month I reckon.

        I got tried of that, replaced the entire fixtures with the all in one LED oyster lights. The oldest ones are around 7 years at all and work like brand new!

      • I have a similar experience-units are well ventilated in ceiling space.

      • i will say tho, stuff was made a LOT better 8 years ago

        i actually still have mr16 and gu10 lamps from 2011 still punching on

      • What brand are they?

    • I did the free Vic govt changeover to LEDs, and paid for new dimmers. Was OK to start with. Flicking on and off started day two, requested a call back to fix many times, never happened. Only half of them still working, and those that are really weak light.
      Am trying to figure out a good quality changeover to smart globes atm also.

    • +2

      I had trouble with cheap eBay leds. Philips brand are bright, warm, flicker free and long lasting.
      I don't think I have had to replace the Philips ones yet, after 4 or 5 years, while the no name bulbs died after a year or two

    • -1

      Some dumbos on this forum to neg you.
      Halogens are great in winter to warm you.
      LED lights start with a blue led shining onto phosphor fooling your eyes.
      However Phillips amongst others have finally fine tuned their chemistry to give you light with proper color rendition.

      Lefties still use their cfl's and call their noxious mercury good for the environment.

  • +1

    flickering

    If you’re in a place that experiences issues with ripple, consider SAL rippleshield downlights and the rippleshield dimmer SAL do.

    Re wattage, compare lumen package instead. I personally think about 900-1000lm is ideal because I like it bright, then dim it as required.

  • +4

    I got the Philips Hue ones a few years back and haven't looked back.

    Threw out the old halgen ones along with transformers, installed some SU10 connectors and they all run off 240v. No more heat, never had to replace even one, and each single globe can be individually controlled through the app, or via voice with Google Home.

    • what was the price of them?

      • +4

        I got most of them really cheap when Kogan was clearing them out in 2022, can't remember the exact price but it was like 80% off….

        Amazon occasially have good deals too.

        Remember that you no longer need transformers and dimmers so that helps with the cost.

        The 'White Ambience' ones allow you to control the colour temperature from warm white to cool white which is really useful.

        https://www.amazon.com.au/Philips-Hue-Adjustable-Bluetooth-C…

        • Can you share a link of what you have?

          • +1

            @Pbm33: https://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/14180/123129/hue.jpg

            You will also need a starter kit or buy a separate Hue bridge so they can all connect.

            • @jv: Looking at ~$50 each. I need 22 replaces so that's going to be too much.

              • @Pbm33: Still depends on what you have now and what needs to be altered; Hue comes in 12V MR16, 240V GU10, 90mm pre-wired Akari/Garnea.

              • @Pbm33: I bought another 3 for around $70 delivered from Amazon during a sale late last year.

  • and getting plug bases installed.

    What do you mean by that? A modern 90mm cutout, with sockets attached to the beams for a 3-pin plug? Or GU-10 sockets?
    The latter is good for DIY retro-fit, but not what you are getting, I hope?

    Will I need new dimmers compatible

    AC analog dimmer switches for LED lights are a horrible hack IMHO. If you want dimming, better to install smart-lights, as JV mentioned, but not halogen-sized GU-10 - they get too hot.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=zigbee+90mm+downlight

    The Hue colour ones are expensive, and other colour lights are crap. Look for cool/warm (CCT) white, under $50 each.

    • The latter is good for DIY retro-fit

      Yep, just removed the transformers and replaced with GU10 connectors… Took about 2 mins each.

    • Currently have 90mm cutout with halogens, will get these replaces with LEDs. Will get a power point/plug base installed for each. Given most LEDs now come with a plug. Not GU10 sockets.

      For the dimmers, just the round knob dimmers, not sure what its called.

      Hues are going to get pretty pricey for me.

      I'm not a DIY guy so will be getting an electrician to do this for me.

      • Likely you have 90mm halogen downlight frames, but what bulbs are in them? You don't have to fit smart bulbs; LEDs come in 12V and 240V, safe & cheap DIY replacement. If you don't understand what you have already it's definitely a contractor job.

        • Definitely a job for a contractor in my case!

          • @Pbm33: If your ceilings are all 2.4m it will work out fine

  • Yeh my electrician (I don’t actually own him) also swears by voltex and used those. Pretty much all down lights come with a switch for cool or warm lights so be sure to set them all before having them installed.

    Also maybe get spares too in case any fail down the track.

    • Have you had Voltex in your place for a while? Any failures?

      • a year now. no failures.

  • I'd suggest going with the ATOM 8W downlights – here’s a link to check them out: AT9039 – ATOM Lighting. You can try them with the existing dimmer, as they usually work well with ATOM products.

    To be honest, I’ve had a lot of issues with SAL gear over the years, so I try to avoid using it. LEDs like these are a much better option than the old halogens – they perform better, last longer, use less power, and don’t get nearly as hot.

    As for Clipsal, they’re great for most electrical gear, but their downlights 7W just always seem a bit underwhelming. No matter how many you put in, they tend to leave dark spots. That’s why we don’t usually install them unless someone specifically asks for them on a new build.

  • +2

    We replaced 50 halogens over 8 years ago with 12w leds, 0 failures.

    • What brand are they?

  • Maybe they all are rated now I'm not sure … but make sure whatever you choose they are rated to be covered by insulation. IC4 from memory. If you care about such things of course!

  • Whatever you do, stay away from the Delta brand from Bunnings. Absolute rubbish. Refer to the reviews. Why Bunnings sell these is beyond me.

    • Have you heard of the Bunnings $12 5L garden sprayer that shatters into a million pieces under pressure? Happy customer!

    • Do you mean DETA?

  • I installed a bunch of Mirabella 9W Smart downlights around my home and really can't fault them. They come in multi-packs at Bunnings which made them quite good value and they get as bright and as dim as I want. If smart lights are an option for you I can recommend them.

  • -1

    I remember when CFL came out and they came with claims of umpteen thousands of operating hours.That supposedly justified the ridiculous prices. Well they never did last anywhere near the claims. So any cost benefit was never ever delivered. I tried every decent brand known . We would have been better off sticking with fluoro and/or incandescent on the fiscal and enviro level,IMHO.

    FFWD> I think the gap between good and shit LEDs is wide, so anything non premium is a risk, just like CFL were.
    ergo, if it sounds too good to be true….

    • Are you talking about the halogen-replacement CFL? Yes they were bad, but there were plenty of good e27 and b22 CFL - so long as they had ventilation to not overheat.

      • -1

        Just the the compact flouro light bulbs that came between incandescent and LED. (in all the usual globe types)

  • I've had to replace 25 SAL LED downlights in my house. Most of them failed around the 5-6 year old mark. Pretty disappointed as they were supposed to be a "good" brand. Some were on dimmers, but the rest were just on/off switches.

  • ALDI had Casalux 90mm LED SMART downlights, 9W RGBCCT that go down to 2,000K for about $14 a few months ago. They are your typical TUYA jobbies, with a standard mains plug. Initially they didn't work with Google Home/ Google Assistant due to some provisioning cock-up at the Australian importer. I used Home Assistant instead to provide integration between Tuya cloud and Google, which works just fine. Since then, they sorted the Google integration, but now that I have HA going, I left it that way.

    We'll see about their longevity, but for $14 they are great value and they are certainly better lights than the couple of Mirabella Genio bulbs I have that cost a lot more. The Genio lights are also TUYA.

    These ALDI Smart LEDs generate a lot less heat than the old school LED lights they replaced. They are just as bright or even brighter at the 6,500K end. They can be dimmed a fair way down and have an even illumination pattern. CRI seems decent, they claim more than 80 and it looks better than bulbs that claim more than 85. The old lights required an external transformer, the ALDI ones do not.

    Perhaps consider sourcing your own Smart lights. These particular ones are WF-RGBCCT-9W and the non-RGB (but still with colour temperature) are WF-CCT-9W. I'm sure that something similar will be available - AliExpress certainly will have "something".

  • Have added a poll to get recommendations on brand to go for. These are the options given by couple of electricians.

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