What should my first car be?

Well hello OzBargainers!

I have been thinking of buying a car for awhile now and my hopes were slightly raised when I saw the deal on the Fiat 500 Pop. Even though I will be getting a lot of chicks with this car, the fact is that my P license allows me to only drive automatics. Furthermore, the service costs for a Fiat would probably be high and the small size makes it look quite unsafe to drive in the event of a car crash.

I plan to spend a maximum $21000 and with the end of financial year approaching, so the car you recommend could be slightly pricier. What car would you recommend with my budget?

Also what is better, a Hyundai i30 or a Honda Jazz?

Comments

  • +21

    If you're under 25, don't even think about getting a new car unless you like wasting your money on insurance premiums.

  • Don't fix what's not broken.

    Do you NEED a car? If not don't get one and waste your money. If you can get by on public transport milk it till you really need to get one as opposed to getting a car.

    • +7

      yup i do.

      • +3

        I just bought a motorbike. Very economical! $10 for 300kms and much faster than cars in peak hour. Brand new bike was $5k, plenty of much cheaper options if money is an issue.

        • +3

          what else is written off when some one T-bones you?

        • +1

          here comes another organ donor ;)

    • +1

      Why would someone neg this shakes head

  • +11

    wat forum do u think this is!>. get something cheap 2nd hand and save that money

  • Usually I would advise only to get a car if you are working during late nights.

    Don't tell them that you work at night though, you might have to pay more as you are more prone to accidents! e.g. YOUI insurance and other insurers.

    Toyota is probably the cheapest for parts I heard.

    Ford parts will go through the roof soon as the factories start to close.

  • +9

    Q: what is better, a Hyundai i30 or a Honda Jazz?
    A: Mazda3

    (get a 2yo and save big $)

  • +8

    If it helps: Last year I bought a used Hyundai i30 auto SLX wagon petrol, 2010 model, 2 years old with 3 years factory warranty left, 100000 kms, for $11,300 at an ex govt auction at Moorebank in Sydney. The govt buys plenty of i30 cars, which they flog off after a few years. I'm happy with it, and the depreciation in those first years of a cars life are brutal, e.g. this model sold for $28k when new.

    • Great way to buy cars +1

    • I know someone who works for a Govt Dept that use these cars and she said they are ok on Freeway but not very good going uphill with more than 3 people onboard.

      I recently bought a 3 years old Colt (50k km) from a dealer, still got 2 years factory warranty left plus extra 3 years warranty from the dealer if I get them to service my car. It was listed for $10k but I paid 8.5k in the end. Make sure you do your home work and go at the right time.

  • +6

    I bought my son an i20 when he got his Ps.
    He needed something cheap and reliable to get to uni and back.
    Cost about $13500, five yrs unlimited k warranty with fixed price servicing.
    For the price, reliability and hassle free motoring I found it hard to justify a second hand vehicle.
    Plus it has all the modern safety options, 7 airbags, traction and stability control, abs etc.
    We stuck to the basics to keep the price down, white (no metallic paint), manual, 3 door.
    The dealer threw in window tint and mats.
    So far we've been very happy, fuel consumption is between 5-6l/100km.

    • You need to consider the depreciation on new cars to understand the total cost. If you are paying $13500 for new, then you could be buying at $9000 for two years old, with very little difference in spec and the balance of the warranty.

      • -1

        Unless you know the full history of the car then it is a gamble. In those 2 yrs that vehicle could have been thrashed!

        • +3

          It really doesn't make a difference for most cars..

          yes you can buy a 2 year old manual car and find the previous owner didn't know how to use manual properly and you have to buy a new gearbox… big deal?

          The only thing you have to watch out for are owners that do all the servicing theirselves, this is easily solved by looking at the logbook.

          Buying a second hand car is almost always a better option, you just need to know what to look for.

  • +10

    Do NOT spend 21k on your first car. Most definitely do not buy new either. New cars depreciate like crazy.

    Second hand VW Golf/Mazada3/Toyota Corolla are all great cars and would be your best bet. I bought a MK4 Golf (2002) for 13500 in 2007 and its been amazing. Maintenance costs are a little higher than the Japanese cars but I've had very little go wrong with it. I've read the engine isn't really 'broken in' until 100,000km's.

    PS: Honda's are very reliable cars and will run forever if looked after. Parts are expensive though.

    • I try to avoid second hand cars just in case I get a lemon. I have always viewed Honda as high quality and reliable until I read this article:

      http://www.carsguide.com.au/news-and-reviews/car-news/honda_…

      I'm not too sure on the quality control in Thailand.

      • +20

        I try to avoid walking out of my house just in case I get hit by the car youre going to be driving.

        From what you've said, you're not listening to the advice people are giving you.
        Why bother asking?

        • +6

          There are plenty of new lemons. Why not buy a $5000 car so if you get a lemon it isn't so financially disastrous.

      • +1

        You think that you'll avoid a lemon by buying new? There will be far more information about second hand cars from previous owners for cars that are 2-3 years old.

        Also, you can buy a second hand car from a dealer and get a warranty. It won't be as comprehensive as buying privately but at least you'll have some protection. Also, sometimes Manufacturer dealers offer extended used car warranty for a cost.

        • +1

          yeah, why not buy a 2nd hand i20 with balance of manufacturer warranty.

          when you buy a second hand car it means that it has been driving for a while. you can look at its log book for repair info (if included). if it has had a heap of stuff done to it then avoid.

          a new car can be a lemon -but there is no way to tell. a 2nd hand car it is easier to tell. (get a mechanic to do a mech check on it, have someone knowledgeable take it for a drive, etc).

      • Not all Honda is made in Thailand.

        For example, for about half year last year, the Civic was made in Japan.
        I believe anything above the Accords are made in Japan, I know the Accord Euro is made in Japan.

        Toyota makes some of their cars in Thailand.

        European cars aren't necessarily more reliable check out this site:
        http://www.reliabilityindex.com/

        Look at the bottom 10 worse: my my… they are all European cars….

  • +1

    are you paying cash? or are you getting a loan for it?

    does it have to be new?

    if used is ok then how "used" is ok? eg. more than 5 years old? more than 50,000k

  • +2

    Brand new 5 door Toyota Yaris 1.5l, $17,000. Great car, but the I30 is a good competitor.

  • and the small size makes it look quite unsafe to drive in the event of a car crash.

    Apart from all the other issues people have pointed out size is a BAD indicator of safety.

    Use http://www.ancap.com.au/. Personally though ABS is the only safety requirement which will stop me buying a car.

  • +17

    Some eclectic thoughts:

    I wish someone had told me at 17, putting all your money into a car was a mistake. If you have that kind of cash, buy cheap and invest the rest. And if you don't have the cash, then you'll be borrowing - paying interest - thousands more than the car is really worth. Some crazy people even put cars on their home loans. They keep the car a few years, but they're still paying interest on it 25 years later.

    I read somewhere most people change cars on average every 3 or 4 years. You could buy 4x $5,000 cars with that $20,000. So even if you drove them into the ground with no maintenance at all, you'd be hard-pressed to kill one per year. (And that's assuming you didn't resell a single one and made zero $ back.)

    If you're set on buying new, at least avoid front wheel drive cars. Once warranty runs out, simple engine work often requires dropping the steering gear off the car first. This can triple labour costs.

    Oh - and if it's a deciding factor - despite what manufacturers would like us to think, girls rarely care what kind of car you drive. Or perhaps I should say, if the kind of car I drive matters to a girl, then I wouldn't want HER. As long as things are going well and you have a job/income/health… great. But as soon as something unexpected happens and you lose one of those things (sometimes after decades of investing your life in her), that kind of girl will be gone - with your kids, or with them plus half (or more) of your assets.

    Another option is look on ebay (etc.) for a car with low km. I purchased a car with 20,000km that cost nearly as much as a house when it was new, for $10,000. Another alternative is a car some other goose has spent tens of thousands of dollars on restoring. They rarely get back what they put in and older cars are simpler to work on, cheaper parts…

    • +1

      If you're set on buying new, at least avoid front wheel drive cars. Once warranty runs out, simple engine work often requires dropping the steering gear off the car first. This can triple labour costs.

      I agree with all your points other than this one. FWD generally only increases maintenance cost because the drive chain wears out faster, but this isn't really an issue for under 100,000K and the idea that the FWD makes engine work so much harder is a huge exaggeration.

      There is however one huge reason to buy FWD: safety. Loosing control of a FWD car means that you go forward (possibly into the car in front). Loosing control of a RWD car means you end up on the other side of the road upside down. If you are getting RWD get traction control as well. Secondary reasons are increased boot space and you don't have to buy a large car.

      • I have a mechanic friend, that has mentioned many times he has to drop the front axles on some cars just to change the oil filter, or access the rearmost sparkplug. This adds an hour to his labour cost compared to say, a commodore or falcon with more engine room.

        I don't remember saying FWD works the engine harder. May have been someone else.

        • that has mentioned many times he has to drop the front axles on some cars just to change the oil filter, or access the rearmost sparkplug.

          Never heard of this and I have worked with a variety of FWD cars. Can you list any cars that have this requirement?

          I don't remember saying FWD works the engine harder. May have been someone else.

          This is a misunderstanding, I was referring to the work the mechanic is putting in.

        • I don't know the specific cars he's referring to. But there is very little room under the hood of many FWD cars. So it wouldn't surprise me to be more than just one or two models. In fact a few visits ago he was doing just that - removing the tyres, brake calipers, and then dropping the front axles - all just to get enough access so he could replace an alternator. I've heard him telling owners they are paying more in labour because of it. But I bet most mechanics don't bother - so those owners wouldn't even know.

        • Replacing an alternator is a very different thing from spark plugs or filters which are standard maintenance items.

          The worst I am aware of for these is the V6 Magna which needs the exhaust manifold removed to get to half of the plugs. The alternator also sucks on this one (need to remove the fans).

    • -1

      that being said, if a car isnt deemed necessary, do you think that I'd be better off saving up for a home loan deposit?

  • +3

    "What should my first car be?"

    A used toyota corolla.
    Seriously…don't spend over 8k for a first car.

    • +2

      My first car was a POS $6000 Daihatsu charade. Served me well for around 3 years. It turned out to be a lemon though, so in the end I sold it for a song ($150) to a friend of mine who needed a car desperately.

      Second car was a 1 yr old Corolla which I purchased from Pickles car auctions back in 2010. Probably one of the best deals I've got, $16.1K plus a thousand for insurance.

      The car was in really good nick and had low mileage — used to be a fleet car (No birds). Up till now it has no issues.

      TO OP: You don't need a new car. Definitely get a used one for your first, and probably even 2nd hand for your second.
      http://www.pickles.com.au/

      • +5

        hey, my first car was a daihatsu charade that I sold for $6000……

      • +2

        My first car also happens to be a 1.3l Charade and I actually quite like the car. Drove between Sydney and Gold Coast a couple of times on that. Owned it for 5 years until someone ran a red light and T boned it :(

        • mine was a white 1994 4 door 1L which I sold when I moved to London. (where I bought a 1987 2 door charade 1L for 200pounds of my neighbour.

        • +3

          I saw a charade like that. The whole passenger side was pushed partway into the driver seat. They are the true cheapskate's car - save money by already driving your coffin on wheels, LOL!

        • ROFL!

        • I saw a guy lying dead on the road after his Daihatsu Charade was hit by a Landcruiser, OLOLROFLMAOMGL!

          True story though.

  • MasterNoob
    As many have said before - new cars are (almost without exception) a loss-making venture. Better to buy a near-new second hand car with low kms. On the plus side, popular small cars depreciate at a slower rate than the unpopular larger cars.
    To put this into perspective - you have $21,000 to spend. Congrats on a healthy budget for a first car.
    Let's look at your likely outcome three years from now.
    Let's say you spent about $21,000 on an i30 back in 2009. That same car would be worth around $13,000 now.
    If you had spent $16,000 on a 2007 i30 in 2009 that car would now be worth about $10,000 and you would not only have saved $5,000, you would have interest on that money of about $800. So, you would have about $15,800 worth of assets as opposed to $13,000.
    Of course, you would have been driving around in an older car - but what would you rather?

    • All cars are a loss making venture (even the collectables)..
      Secondhand cars just don't depreciate by $5-10k as soon as you drive them off the lot.

  • +1

    I've had new Audi's, Peugeot and Alfa's, plus Holden's when others have been paying. I buy 8yro Toyotas and drive them for 10 years. There really isn't much difference in how you get from A to B between a 2005 Corolla and a 2013 Hyundai, despite what the marketing people will tell you. Try to save money.

  • I would spend the 21k. since the car market is a little slow at the moment, a lot of the car companies have very low to 0% interest rates. So I would spend your budget and do it over 3 yrs on a 0-2% interest. put the rest in the bank and that will pay for the interest and then some which can go to your rego etc.
    anything with good warranty, Toyota, hold cruze, even fiat are doing good deals.

  • Have you checked Hyundai i45 price? I guess it is around 22-24k (with few km covered) and it is very decent looking car with all essential features. Only thing that bothers is foot brake.

  • +3

    I wouldn't be purchasing a brand new card when you've just got your P's. It's likely you'll end up scratching it when trying to park or doing basic driving tasks in the first year of driving.

    Plus you'll pay the top rate in insurance as you'll have no "no claim bonus".

  • +5

    Ha, I laugh at people who get a new car as their first car. 6 Years ago i got a 1990 Ford falcon for $1700 from a dealer. Was great, accidentally crashed it 2 years later (whoops), and then got a 1995 Ford Fairmont for $2000. In the 4 years since I've got it I've spent maybe $1500 on it, and it has been great. I treat it like absolute shit and it just goes and goes. Get it serviced once every 8 - 12 months, or whenever it has problems… So all up, 2 cars over 6 years plus servicing, spent around $5.5k
    Very happy with my decision. So glad I didn't waste TEN THOUSAND DOLLARS PLUS on a new car(s). When my car's next repair bill is greater than what I paid for it then i will offload it and get another car for under $4k.

    This means I've had no debt at all from leaving school til now, and I've been able to put that 10 grand to much better use - ie: holidays, home deposit :P

    Also never had comprehensive insurance. Why pay hundreds of dollars per year to cover something that you can afford to replace.

    But DEFINITELY get 3rd party though ($50 bucks a year?), when i wrecked my car (ran up the back of someone) it cost me 3500 to fix his car, mine was a write-off, and had to get a new car, so that was very costly. Having 3rd party to start with would have saved me 3500 in that instance. Stupid on my part.

    • +1

      This party insurance is more than $50 a year. But I can't argue with the rest of your post.

  • -5

    I got a maserati for my 17th bday. Not for everyone but if i can choose aston is better car for first timer….

  • -5

    ifyou like fast cars, buy a xr6 turbo and debadge the turbo bit, cops will think you have a normal xr6. bought a 2010 model for 23k 2nd hand,

    • +8

      Sigh.

    • +4

      don't cops still love to pull over xr6 for exactly that reason? cause they know people do that?

      • +4

        Don't be silly.

        Cops are stupid and have no way of figuring out what bogans do to avoid cops.

  • +1

    I bought a 2nd hand 2009 FG XT Ford Falcon for 11k with 100,000km done.
    Here are the ozbargain pros/cons I can think of.
    Pros:
    High depreciation rate - I have bought it super cheaply (40K brand new)
    V6 4L engine has long life due to size
    Ford Falcons have cheap parts - Why do you think taxis use them?

    Cons:
    High depreciation also means lower salvage value when selling
    Powerful engine of Falcon means insurance will be dearer
    Higher fuel consumption compared to smaller cars(Often overexaggerated, unless you drive a lot)

    I could have bought a Prius for 20k, but insurance, fuel usage and salvage value differences had to add up to 9k for the life of the vehicle.

    So I bought a Falcon.

    • +1

      That's a good decision. The FG was awarded, I believe, the safest large car in Australia a year or two ago. While all new cars might have four or five star safety ratings, small cars will always be at a disadvantage when it comes to collisions with larger cars (damn physics).

      You've seen most of the depreciation already. You'll be down to $2k a year depreciation at worst from this point on.

      The Falcon has a straight 6 engine, not a V6, which gives it the smoothness over the Commodore. Falcons are also relatively cheap to insure. A standard FG should not raise your insurance rate at all.

      • +2

        While all new cars might have four or five star safety ratings, small cars will always be at a disadvantage when it comes to collisions with larger cars (damn physics).

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCecdOBCFjI

        • Engine has been removed from the Volvo, disregard.

        • Main point is that you should not assume smaller is safer. Look the car up.

  • Seriously… Don't screw up your 21k on a new car. Get a used car around 6-8k and drive until u get your unrestricted licence. Because you will buildup a lot of driving experience over time… then get a new car …

    This is just that inexperienced driver is more likely to cause a damage to a car be it at an accident or at parking, reversing etc…

    • +2

      Agreed with above. Get a used car and not a new car. Saves you from ending up like this… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7o7JGj8bz4

      Back to topic, I would recommend Jazz > i30. Small cars are fuel efficient.

  • -3

    My first car was a Toy Car made in China.

  • Honda Jazz or a Toyota Corolla would make a very good first car. Easy to maintain and low maintenance.

  • +3

    Get a 4 yr old Commodore or Falcon with an lpg system. Why? They depreciate almost 70% after 4 years, then the depreciation slows. This is what I call the depreciation sweet spot.

    Small cars on the other hand depreciate around 30% after 4 years.

    • +1

      I'm surprised it took that many post before someone mentioned Falcon on LPG. That is the standard response to any "what car should I buy" thread on Whirlpool.

  • +1

    get a skyline gtr.

    • +1

      the chick magnet! :P

      • Probably a dude magnet too.

        If you are so inclined :P

      • +3

        Chick & dude in blue uniform?

        • +1

          mainly teenage dudes who ask you to "chuck a skid"

      • Also the kebab shop runner.

  • +3

    What should my first car be? - NOT NEW!

    If you havent been told or heard, your car will devalue by up to 30% the minute you drive off the dealers yard.

    So if you pay $15,000 for your car, and try to sell it the next day, you will get $10,000 losing $5,000

    Buy an 18 month old car with full warranty etc and you will (most likely) be better off.

    • +2

      Not convinced about this, if you are trying to sell your car back to a dealer then yes it will deprecitate a lot as soon as you drive off a lot. But when i looked around 6 months ago, it was nearly cheaper to buy a new car than one which was only a year old.

      Are the new midyear car models starting to come out soon??? If this is the case and with EOFY there could be some real bargains on new cars.

      I ended up getting my car through a car broker, there are a few brokers around i put out feelers to three. Was happy with the price, had an issues with the dealer which the broker ended up organising through, was annoying but overall i was still happy with the price as the small car market has very little room for price movement. The mid size like the i30 mazada3 has a lot of movement.

      Isnt the jazz small? Also you may want to consider a toyota. My mechanic always raves about the engines in a toyota saying how they are are very reliable (i guess theres a reason why you see a lot of little security cars are toyotas).

      Also agree with other comments that a cheap second hand car can be good as a first car, if you can get it for the right price. Especially the first year or two while you get used to driving regularly.
      And you dont have to worry so much about what happens to it when all those nice people at the shopping center smashing car doors and trolleys into it.

  • +1

    Your first car should be:

    Manual if you can drive it
    Up to 15k with cash but much less if getting a loan.
    Years 2005-2010
    Toyota, Mazda or any other major reliable brand.
    Less then 150k odo under $5000, 120k under $8000 and 80k under $10,000
    Have a decent logbook and the newer the car the less previous owners there should be.


    Here's the most important part:

    Buying a used car is full of people trying to scam you, even if its only a small scam.

    Most of the mistakes come from picking the car out from the advertisements, not asking the right questions when you are talking to the owner.

    • I looked with these guidelines at the beginning of the year… Just not possible to find anything meeting those conditions in a small car….

      We ended up getting a new Suzuki Swift…both my partner and I are new drivers… yes insurance hurt but for 18k it was better than an 8yr old 150000+km car for 10k. We were targeting Corolla/Jazz but then widened the search to anything with airbags and ABS (ANCAP 4+)

      My work is in vehicle safety and I have seen too many crushed cars and injury lists to want anything that is not highly rated by ANCAP.

      • +1

        Sorry but you were clearly looking with your eyes closed.

        There are clear cars that fit the criteria I posted.

        Example:

        2007 Mazda 3 BK Series 2 Maxx Sport
        63,000 odo
        $9500

        There are so many cars that are well priced.

        • Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough but I certainly didn't see much back in February

  • Please don't buy a new car as your first car. In fact - don't buy a new car ever. It's not worth it.

  • don't bother with a new car. As soon as you take it off the lot the value would drop by few thousand dollars. I would strongly recommend a second hand car, especially since you are young and on Ps.

  • I wonder if everyone keep buying the used cars, who will buy the new ones :)

    Anyway, I think it is not that bad to buy a new car. If you love driving, get it.
    You get warranty, road side assistance and worry free driving for next 5- 7 years depending on the warranty of the car, as service these days comes capped on new cars.

    If you could afford and a safe driver , thinking to keep it for more than 5 years, go for it.

    Getting a 2nd hand car is like a lottery, where you win and might loose as well. I dont know much about the used cars and when I initially bought my Toyota used one, the previous seller did not tell me that it was involved in an accident.

    If you want to go for used ones, I will suggest to get the fleet auction ones.

    Earlier, I was looking for used RAV4 ( 2-3 years) and most of them were top model and over 27k-35k. Finally I got the new base model with discounts which costed me approx. 3-4k more than the top model 3 years old Rav4. Additionally, I got 3+3 years warranty, road side assist + capped services.

  • +4

    2-3 years old with low kms.

    Japanese or Australian rather than European for lower repair/servicing costs.

    If buying from a dealer, don't purchase any extras. This includes "finance". If you need to borrow money to buy a car, you can't afford it.

    You can ring your motoring association to ask for particular things to look for when inspecting it yourself. Have a look at a few cars and then get your best pick inspected by a mechanic or your local motoring association. Some sellers will already have a certificate.

  • -8

    I stopped reading as soon as I read he only has an Automatic Licence.

    • lol come on, thats a bit harsh

      i like the turbo cruze but yeah… auto small cars suck wang

    • +3

      For most people it isn't by choice, it just happens to be whatever transmission the car to teach is.

      • +4

        That and modern automatics are affordable and efficient. Manuals are either for performance cars or people who think they are driving a performance car.

        • +5

          Manuals are also for if you are trying to save money or enjoy the extra control of a car.

          Honestly if it wasn't for the money I would have got an automatic car though, I'm just too lazy and hate peak hour traffic!

      • -4

        Isn't by choice???

        Driving School : So what driving licence will you be going for Sir?

        L Plater : Mmmm….Surprise me.

        Is this how you pursue a driving instructor?

        • +5

          Not everyone gets driving lessons. Especially not if you are expected to get 120 hours of practice for Ps.

        • +4

          I have an auto license.
          This is because I didn't own a manual car when on my Ls.
          This is because my parents nor anyone in my extended family owned a manual car when on my Ls.
          I didn't really have a choice, unless I wanted to pay hundreds of dollars in lessons.
          Not once in the 5 years I've had my license has this been an issue for me (maybe 5% of my mates drive a manual).

          But I obviously totally regret it because now I can't be a radical manual car driver changing radical gears in radical traffic.

        • +1

          unless you are going to pay 120x$50 with a driving instructor to do all your hours (for under 25s) what you learn is dictated by the transmission your friend's/family car is

        • +2

          Isn't it by choice

          Lol. It's not as if you have the choice when you're 18 years old and have to borrow a car when you learn to drive.

          Seriously though the road rage is bad enough in the cities and if the traffic isn't enough to piss you off, then the start-stop-start driving in a manual will probably drive you insane.

      • +1

        Wow. Helpful.

      • For most people it isn't by choice, it just happens to be whatever transmission the car to teach is.

        it this actually a euphemism regarding sexuality?

  • Absolutely, second hand's probably the best idea. Otherwise, go buy a VW Polo - just within your budget, very reliable

    • plenty of bad press recently though. if your only criteria is reliability, stick to japanese

  • +1

    OK first thing is you will likely crash it, so I would steer clear of new because you will cry louder and the first thing you need to take into account is insurance cost.

    As a GTR owner you could easily buy some auto (I'm going to assume manual is out for you) r34 sedan or coupe for $10k BUT you won't be able to afford the insurance. So forget performance cars or most imports.

    Rather than give the same advice as everyone else I'm going to give you some out of the box advice. Cars I would consider for something a little unique, bearing in mind cheap running costs, reliability and safety,
    Nissan Cube $10k, fits heaps, auto, Micra drivetrains so parts easy to source.

    Stay away from euro trash, expensive to repair and unreliable.

  • +3

    Porsche Boxer at CarSales.com.au

    Just get something conservative like this, a late model porsche boxster should be the very least kind of vehicle you should be considering at your age. There's plenty to choose from around 20k, buy it from an old grandad/mom who used it as a second car and looked after it.

    http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Porsche-Boxster-1…

    • a late model porsche boxster should be the very least kind of vehicle you should be considering at your age

      It's actually on my list of cars to consider when I have my midlife crisis

      • +3

        comeon Scotty, if your going to have a midlife crisis with a car do it proper -

        1. kick the kids out to a interstate or at the least out of city university, tell em how to fund themselves with work
        2. that mortgage you got through 50% paying, time to borrow against it, after all your only going to load those pesky kids with extra money and cause sibling conflict

        something uber conservative like this would be ideal for a wisdom filled man in his middle years

        http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Bentley-Continenta…

Login or Join to leave a comment