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BEST-9205M Electrical Digital Multimeter -US $8.99 (Only 3 Days) -Free Shipping -Tmart

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BEST-9205M Electrical Digital Multimeter -US $8.99 (Only 3 Days) -Free Shipping -Tmart
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Store RepLeftdrop on 01/08/2014 - 19:54 tmart.com (384 clicks)
Last edited 01/08/2014 - 21:57 by 1 other user
9205Mtmart

Please enter the coupon in Secure Checkout. There are 200 stock.
Price:US $8.99(AU $9.65)

Features
+ Compact and portable to hold and operate
+ CMOS integrated circuit
+ On-off beep alarm function
+ Manual measuring range
+ Maximum value display is
+ Auto power off, data hold functions
+ LCD backlight display, low voltage indication
+ Over measuring range indication and protection
+ It is ideal for such fields as smelting, manufacturing, petrol, chemical industry, etc

Specifications
+ DC Voltage Range: 200mV/2V/20V/200V/1000V Accuracy: ±(0.5%+3)
+ AC Voltage Range: 2V/20V/200V/700V Accuracy: ±(0.8%+5)
+ DC Current Range: 2mA/20mA/200mA/20A Accuracy: ±(0.8%+10)
+ AC Current Range: 2mA/20mA/200mA/20A Accuracy: ±(2.0%+5)
+ Resistance Range: 200Ω/2KΩ/20KΩ/200KΩ/2MΩ/20MΩ/200MΩ Accuracy: ±(0.8%+31)
+ Capacitance Range: 20nF/2uF/20uF/200uF Accuracy: ±(2.5%+20)
+ Low Voltage Display: Yes
+ Automatic Shutdown: Yes
+ Shockproof: Yes
+ Maximum Display: 1999
+ Display Screen: 59 x 31mm
+ Power: 9V (6F22) Battery
+ Dimensions: 7.24 x 3.07 x 1.34" / 18.4 x 7.8 x 3.4cm (LxWxH)
+ Weight: 5.32 oz / 1517 g
+ Color: Orange & Yellow

PS. Please go to Checkout to use the coupon; Coupon can be used only once each person.

Electrical & Electronics 9205M Electrical Digital Multimeter Electronic

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closed Comments

  • diddy50 on 01/08/2014 - 20:12
    +1

    What can I do with this?
    In hobby or basic terms.

    Any good?

  • beaver2233 on 01/08/2014 - 20:19
    +1

    anyone had any experience with this particular brand/model?

    • chyawala on 01/08/2014 - 22:00

      Rep, my one has will not read DC Volts and broke in a matter of months. Only had light use and only used a couple of times. What warranty do you offer?

      • Store RepLeftdrop @ Tmart on 04/08/2014 - 12:38

        Hi, pm me with your order ID and our colleague with check it.

  • afoveht on 01/08/2014 - 20:22
    +8

    Measuring high voltages with cheap meters like this is a potential tragedy. These cheap meters may be acceptable for low power measurements but no substitute for a good quality meter in potentially hazardous applications.

    • bargainhuntaa on 01/08/2014 - 20:32
      +1

      Can you recommend a good quality meter for a good price? Mostly to use around the house and work on my car?

      • Doge on 01/08/2014 - 20:44
        +2

        Look at the Uni-T meters on DX. I have a UT61E and it's been great. It's pretty accurate and rugged if you're using it in the garage, as I do mine. I think I bought it for around $50.

      • afoveht on 01/08/2014 - 20:52
        +2

        Not sure, it's been a long time since I've bought a meter, but I'd say anything from a reputable local electronics/electrical (E14, RS, etc. ) distributor would probably be ok.

      • stewy on 02/08/2014 - 00:05
        +2

        This meter will most likely be fine for automotice purposes. Just avoid using it for current measurements if it is unfused (in fact I'd fill that current measurement hole with glue to stop you being able to insert the probe into it).

        A meter like this is fine for all extra low voltage hobbyist work. Just please do not start using it to measure 240VAC (or higher) around the house. A decent meter for these purposes is a Cat III rated Fluke meter. 99% of sparkies you will find have a Fluke meter…

        • Memo14 on 02/08/2014 - 00:38

          Actually less than 30% buy fluke . There are many other brands distributed by electrical wholesalers that are quality and much better value eg Kyoritsu

        • Russ on 02/08/2014 - 02:56

          Fluke is the multimeter equivalent of a Rolls Royce. Definitely excellent quality (I have one myself), but there are plenty of people who prefer Fords and Holdens instead of a Rolls Royce, and it's the same for multimeters.

          But for someone who doesn't know which multimeter brands are good, Fluke is a good (although expensive) recommendation. Fluke multimeters can be bought just about everywhere, and are uniformly good quality (with the possible exception of the cut-price Fluke 17 and 19 that were developed for the Chinese market).

          I like the idea of plugging the 20A socket with glue.

        • stewy on 02/08/2014 - 15:12
          +1

          @Memo14: I've used Kyoritsu analogue meggers many times (in fact they have been the most common one I've come across) but never seen a DMM of theirs in use. One big problem I see with them is they do current, which means there is a potential to hook the leads up wrong, fused or unfused when you work with high fault current sources you don't want that.

          The most common current model I see at work would be the Fluke 114 (but there are still plenty of older model Flukes getting around). At ~$250 it's a cheap investment to get a quality meter that you know you can trust and a Fluke will last you a long long time generally (my Fluke is almost 8 years old and still going strong).

      • Russ on 02/08/2014 - 03:05

        Mostly to use around the house

        You shouldn't ever need to use a multimeter on mains power, unless you are a sparky or electrical engineer.

        If you want to measure the mains voltage and/or current, get a $20 plug-in "power meter" from Aldi, Jaycar, or many other places. Every one I have seen will report voltage and current as well as power (and often other things too like power factor).

        However, if by "around the house" you are referring to 12V halogen lighting or other low voltages less than 50V, almost any multimeter will do.

        Don't buy a "clamp" multimeter unless you know what they are used for, and want one for that purpose. Clamp multimeters are usually less useful than a "normal" multimeter for most people, and are usually more expensive too. (e.g. many clamp meters can't read DC current).

    • Russ on 01/08/2014 - 21:45
      +1

      Even scarier, the 20A range is unfused. If you do some current measurements, then later want to do a voltage measurement and forget the leads are plugged unto the "20A" socket, you could be in for some real fireworks and danger.

      If you were measuring the voltage of your car battery, you'll probably get some new burn scars. If you were measuring mains, you'll probably be dead. Hint: the insulation on the leads doesn't stay on the leads very long when the wire in the leads gets red hot.

      And no, the earth-leakage circuit breaker at your switchboard won't always save you. It will only trip if it detects a current flowing through the earth wire. You could be hanging onto neutral and live, the earth-leakage circuit breaker can't detect that.

      • pmupsinep on 01/08/2014 - 22:12

        the earth-leakage circuit breaker can't detect that.

        An RCD will.

        • Elppa8 on 01/08/2014 - 23:02
          +2

          An RCD will.

          I don't think so. A RCD relies on balanced currents between active and neutral. If there is a unbalance it trips as some current is returning via an earth. However if a person is across both active and neutral and not touching an earth (rubber soled shoes or wooden floor) then the RCD will not trip and electrocution will be the result in my opinion.

        • stewy on 02/08/2014 - 00:02

          An ELCB is just an RCD that also has over current protection like a traditional circuit breaker.

          As mentioned it will only measure if a current is going to earth and you can hang onto L & N all day long and you'll most likely not conduct enough to trip it.

        • Russ on 02/08/2014 - 02:42

          No, an RCD won't protect you.

          If you are only touching live and neutral, you are electrically no different to a light bulb. You appear simply as a resistance between live and neutral.

          An ELCB wont detect that, and an RCD won't either.

          Secondly, an ELCB is not "an RCD that also has over current protection". That would be an RCBO, as described on this page:
          http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Residual-current_device

          By my understanding, an RCD detects any difference between the currents flowing in the live and neutral wires. Any difference is assumed to be flowing to earth through some other conductive path (e.g. a human).

          An ELCB is inserted between the building's earth wires and the earthing rod, and directly detects current flowing to earth. Won't detect all faults, you could still electrocute yourself by grabbing active and some metal part of the plumbing. As the plumbing is usually well-connected to earth, but not through the earthing rod, the ELCB won't detect this situation.

          Even if your plumbing is plastic, you are not safe. The water in the plumbing is easily conductive enough to kill you. The water is "earthed" by the metal piping in the street.

        • stewy on 02/08/2014 - 14:49

          @Russ:

          Fair enough, we were taught at Tafe that an ELCB was a MCB with integral RCD protection. (Uni teaches you nothing about this)

          By my understanding, an RCD detects any difference between the currents flowing in the live and neutral wires.

          Correct (through the use of a balancing/toroidal transformer) and we were incorrectly taught it seems that this was also how an ELCB works…

          In anycase, in the example given it won't affect the outcome and ELCB or RCD you are still in trouble if you decide to get between the L and N wires.

          I only deal with BS88 fuses, MCBs and ACBs at work so have never really thought twice about it. But I do remember seeing the combined RCDs and MCBs listed as RCBOs in the Schneider catalogue now that you mentioned.

  • afoveht on 01/08/2014 - 20:50
    +1

    -

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