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Automotive Multimeter Q1585 + Inductive Clamp $32.03 Pickup / $44.63 Delivered @ Dick Smith eBay

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Automotive Multimeter Q1585 + Inductive Clamp $32.03 Pickup / $44.63 Delivered @ Dick Smith eBay
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P[Deactivated] on 28/05/2015 - 07:41 ebay.com.au (1045 clicks)
Last edited 01/06/2015 - 14:42 by 1 other user
CPICKUP15

Digitor Automotive Multimeter Q1585
Comes with an inductive clamp lead. A quick Google gives positive remarks in car forums.

Functions: ACV, ACA, DCV, DCA, Resistance, RPM, Dwell angle, Duty cycle, Frequency, Temperature, Continuity, Diode test

Comes with: probe leads, clip leads, inductive clamp, temperature probe, rubber holster, 9V battery

Dick Smith eBay:
Pickup: $32.03 with 15% CPICKUP15 code
Delivered: $44.63 ($37.68 + $6.95 shipping)

Dick Smith website: $89.98

Jaycar's equivalent multimeter is $59.95

Post-expiry additional info (for if this meter gets reposted):

Meter comes with probes, alligator clip leads, type K thermocouple.
http://i.imgur.com/41L0CfE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KHSuC2p.jpg

Inductive clamp is for RPM measurement only.
Inside the clamp: http://i.imgur.com/rAM4zNo.jpg
Circuit: http://i.imgur.com/srFvpbH.jpg

Automotive Electrical & Electronics Electrical Digital Multimeter Multimeter

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closed Comments

  • highon2str on 28/05/2015 - 08:21
    +1

    I have had this over 10 years now in my tool box. Trade quality and well built. This is not your typical hobbyking/ebay $10 special, cheap crap plastic toy (although for most applications those are also surprisingly accurate/capable).

    This particular model has also been rebranded by ABW at some stage and had a yellow case instead of a blue one.

    A steal at $32. Bought a spare!

    • [Deactivated] on 28/05/2015 - 08:23

      Thanks for the feedback highon2str. I'm waiting for my 'pickup ready' SMS so I play with it this weekend.

      • greenie4242 on 12/07/2015 - 07:09
        +1

        Hi again @Thrift, thanks so much for posting this deal! I used it on the weekend and it was fantastic. I've been tossing up whether to buy a Uni-T UT61E or an Agilent U1232 for a while, but bought this to get me by in the meantime. The meter is on special again now, for $38.39. It went back up to $89.98 for a while (and is still that price on eBay) so I don't know how long it's on special for.

        I wasted HOURS yesterday trying to help a mate fix his car and get his stereo going. He had not one, not two, but three cheapie $9.95 Jaycar multimeters:
        http://www.jaycar.com.au/PRODUCTS/Test-%26-Measurement/Multi…

        We kept getting weird readings, and one meter would show a voltage when the other didn't. It turns out, the heat from the sun was changing the readings. Also one meter lost some digits if held a certain way, as the display LCD was loose. I was reading 2V instead of 12V, as the 1 had disappeared without my knowledge. One of them exploded when too much current was drawn - no fuse on the 10A range! One of them gave intermittent readings then just stopped working completely.

        When I took them apart, despite looking almost identical on the outside, they were all purchased at different times and had vastly different circuit boards inside. Two of them, the battery terminals had dry joints and were literally rotating in their pads, between little solder balls. They were only just making contact because of the way the battery was tightly wedged in. A capacitor fell of the board on another one. The one that exploded had shocking build quality and solder joints.

        I went home and got my 20 year old Hung Cheng (very good quality meter, about 20 years old) and this DSE Q1585. Using both meters we instantly had reliable voltage and current readings, which simply weren't happening with the crap $10 meters. With decent multimeters, we solved all the electrical problems within ten minutes. We had unfortunately wasted hours with bad readings due to the crap meters, without realising just how crap they were.

        My point is: Anybody who even tries to compare this DSE meter to a $5 cheapie has rocks in their head is mistaken.

        A good video to watch is Dave Jones' EEVblog $50 Multimeter Shootout. These are $50 meters, not $5 meters, but some of the things he finds inside make your skin crawl. $5 meters are usually much worse:
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoeUgMFLyAw

      • greenie4242 on 12/07/2015 - 07:24
        +1

        For future reference I scanned in the instruction manual:
        http://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/23340/31952/digitor_q15…

        also some pictures from inside:
        http://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/23340/31953/digitor_q15…
        http://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/23340/31954/digitor_q15…
        http://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/23340/31955/digitor_q15…
        http://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/23340/31956/digitor_q15…

        The build quality is very impressive, with solid banana posts and threaded metal inserts for the case screws. Also had a deep channel around the rim of the case which would help keep liquid spills out. Well protected LCD panel, unlike the cheap meters where the LCD is directly up against the front of the case and exposed to damage. Nice to see a ceramic fuse inside, though it's a 250V AC fuse when the meter can read up to 750V, which is a bit dodgy but not uncommon in mid-range meters. At least it states on the outside that it must not be used to measure any high energy sources with possible transients above 1000V.

        I really like the holster probe mounts! I've never had a meter with these before. You can clip one probe to the back of the meter and keep it firmly in place pressed against whatever you're measuring while comfortably holding the meter in your hand, leaving your other hand free to use the other probe. If your meter doesn't have this, you need to find somewhere to prop it up so you can still read the display and just hope it won't fall over, fall on the ground, or slip off the engine cover and get eaten by the fan belt while you're pulling on the leads.

        • highon2str on 13/07/2015 - 13:18
          +1

          Thanks for your efforts! I grabbed a copy F the manual :)

    • IVI on 28/05/2015 - 09:15

      OK… BUT… with another suspiciously HIGH S+H fee, IMO.

      It's $8.00 to ship 10x AA cells (in an OzB deal a few deals up, ie, more recent)… vs $12.60 more to ship this item.

      I smell an overprice (at least, for those who require delivery).

      My 2.2 cents only.

      PS In this case, I'd be looking to BangGood or AliExpress for the same item, at lower price & Free/included S+H.

      (Use their apps, one is terrific; very easy to buy with. Much easier than DSE's web site, IMO/)

      • [Deactivated] on 28/05/2015 - 09:46

        It's $8.00 to ship 10x AA cells … vs $12.60 more to ship this item.

        I tried several different regional postcodes, all had $6.95 delivery. Even Coober Pedy.

    • mskeggs on 28/05/2015 - 09:29

      One review suggests it is auto-ranging and covers 240V.
      Is this the case?

      • [Deactivated] on 28/05/2015 - 09:50

        This multimeter is autoranging with AC ranges of 3.2V, 32V, 320V, 750V; and DC ranges of 32mV, 3.2V, 32V, 320V, 1000V, and for current, both are 320uA, 3200uA, 32mA, 320mA, 10A.

        Specs are listed on the DSE website.

        • mskeggs on 28/05/2015 - 13:04

          Thanks Thrift.
          I bought one C&C from George St Sydney.
          They are doing all the C&C from a table next to registers with the current offers and I saw 4 other multimeters there. So 'hi' other OzB locals!

      • tyler.durden on 28/05/2015 - 13:06

        how do you fix electronic circuits?

    • tyler.durden on 28/05/2015 - 13:09

      know or have tips how fault finding electronic circuits?

      There's so much components, how do u identify the faulty part?

      • mskeggs on 28/05/2015 - 13:14

        For my uses, it is stuff like, the indicator light is not working, but I replaced the bulb. I can test if enough power is getting to the socket, or if there is a break elsewhere. Or if power is making it to the fuse socket, or the indicator stalk. It lets you check simple things like this.
        It isn't for diagnosing an engine that won't go, you need to isolate the issue a bit. Although it would tell you if the battery was at fault!

        • tyler.durden on 28/05/2015 - 13:21

          so you test it on 240V AC circuits, while it is powered on?

        • mskeggs on 28/05/2015 - 13:22

          @tyler.durden:
          The example I gave was a 12v car circuit. But yes, you could use it for 240V. I suggest you be very careful, and your questions suggest you might be better leaving house wiring problems to an electrician.

  • hamwhisperer on 28/05/2015 - 08:42

    I recently posted about multimeters and someone responded saying if I can get a cheap "fluke" brand, it's the way to go, real high quality and iirc some youtube videos, quite well designed / safe when it comes to making dumb 240v (or higher) mistakes.

    Any thoughts?

    EDIT: looking at the attachment on it, does it not have the standard pointy needle tips for checking fine equipment?

    • pmupsinep on 28/05/2015 - 09:01
      +3

      You don't need a Fluke, and a cheap (probably fake) Fluke is not an alternative to this multimeter with specific automotive related functions.

      As for making dumb mistakes with 240v AC, if you need your multimeter to protect you against stupid mistakes then you shouldn't be touching it in the first place.

      • hamwhisperer on 28/05/2015 - 09:08

        Yeah ok sure, you're right but if someone is dumb enough to make a mistake, I got the impression from this hardcore electronics guy, that they were well designed and may not go bang in a bad situation. If you can buy quality, why not.

        I don't particularly need auto functions so I might skip but thanks anyhow.

        • IVI on 28/05/2015 - 09:19

          How do you know - for sure - that this is EXACTLY the same item & quality as the recommender (above) remembers?

          The item may be a look-nearly-alike cheaper imitation…

          OR (possible, if not likely) our recommender could be a DES tool.

    • [Deactivated] on 28/05/2015 - 09:06
      +1

      I can't really give much advice on this topic, but the main issues with the cheap eBay multimeters seem to come done to safety, accuracy and precision, and build quality.

      For typical hobbyist work, the cheap multimeters do decent job. They're accurate and precise enough for low DC voltages and current.

      If you're intending to play around with mains voltage, then you want a good quality meter, likewise when you need accurate measurements.

      Fluke make quality multimeters, but at quality gear prices. A good condition used Fluke will do a great job.

      From the reports I've seen online about this meter, this one seems to be decent quality for the money (even from those who paid $90 for it).

      Check out EEVblog's Digital Multimeter Buying Guide for Beginners - goes through the issues.

      The multimeter in this deal has functions suited for automotive work - it should have pointy probes and clip probes (maybe alligator clips, or maybe simple spring-loaded arrangement).
      But depending on the sort of things you want to measure, you can get meters with various other functions.

      • hamwhisperer on 28/05/2015 - 09:09

        Thanks dude, I'll bypass but at least we're seeing them posted again. I'd like just a basic one, but semi-decent quality, nothing insane. Mine is way old and crappy. However I rarely use it

      • mrfluffy on 28/05/2015 - 12:01

        I got my missus a $4 multimeter off ebay so that she can test if the dichro lamps in the store she manages are open circuited, which is usually the reason they fail to light up.
        Quite a few used to get turfed out because the pins weren't making contact in the holder. ( solution, bend the pins a little)or the tranny was buggered. The same multimeter was selling at Bunnings for around $13.

        It seems to be as accurate as any Sparky would need a multimeter to be, on mains voltage.

        I am a reformed Sparky btw. I don't really understand why, anytime a cheap multimeter becomes available, every man and his dog like to make us aware that they know that Flukes are better quality. Even though i doubt most of them have ever actually used one.

        This multimeter deal looks like pretty good to me.

        Btw , i own a Fluke, and a couple of others. : )

    • 51722 on 28/05/2015 - 09:10

      I have to agree with what pmupsinep has to say about multimeters.

      Personally, I have the Uni-t ut61e (Cheap Brand). In my opinion, it is a very good multimeter and has an excellent response time. The leads are very flexible and overall feels very good.

      I have had it for 2+ years now for general hobby electronics as well as for repairing household appliances.

  • roy1984 on 28/05/2015 - 09:21
    -2

    I believe, when it comes to measurement tools, FLUKE is the best. doesnt matter what application you use, either residential, commercial, or industrial……very much rugged, good quality, accurate, and yes, lifetime warranty…..Category ratings are very much important specially when you do measurement with electric lines. also, leads should be of cat ratings.

    • mrfluffy on 28/05/2015 - 11:32
      +2

      roy, don't mean to be rude, but your comment…"I believe, when it comes to measurement tools, FLUKE is the best."
      is totally irrelevant. If this was a deal for a new Corolla and someone declared that they believe Mercedes are better, so what.

      • roy1984 on 28/05/2015 - 13:40

        i was not rude, i just shared my experience and my thoughts, i did not said, NOT to buy this deal…..

  • excite on 28/05/2015 - 09:25
    +1

    They also have a cheaper one, $8.91 before 15% discount, $$21.98 on Dick Smith website, if anyone interested
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digitor-Digital-Multimeter-19-Ran…

    • bm on 28/05/2015 - 10:24

      Not autoranging is an immediate do-not-buy.

  • Elppa8 on 28/05/2015 - 10:24

    Hmm. I can remember the days when cars had room in the engine bay to be able maintain and tune motors. Nowadays not so easy.

    • bm on 28/05/2015 - 10:31
      +1

      Now they have an OBD2 port for tuning and easy diagnostics. The only maintenance most engines need is oil, filter, coolant and spark plugs. Most diagnostics are much easier these days and engine's don't go out of tune for no reason like they used to.

      • supnigs super skids on 29/05/2015 - 09:26

        OBD2 could give you an indication of a problem, eg. ignition. But it wont tell you any further than that. With this meter you could nail it down further to possibly isolate the coil/s and leads withou disconnecting it. Thats why it has an inductive pickup, no need to splice .

        • bm on 29/05/2015 - 18:30
          +1

          No. Just no.

          There is very little benefit this meter provides for a modern computer controlled car over a plain old AC/DC/Amp/Ohmmeter. If you need a plain old DVM, buy one that will last your whole life, a Fluke 71/77 etc. They're not cheap, but there's a reason for it. On a modern car, dwell is computer controlled. Timing is computer controlled. Spark is computer controlled. Are you going to measure your injectors duty cycle with this meter when a simple bluetooth OBD2 and the Torque app works a thousand times better and completely accurate? Are you going to measure the dwell time, when a scope will give you the full picture, plus tell you of any potential problems that a dwell meter can't?

          The answer is no. A huge no.

          If you need more than a generic meter for a computerized engine, you need an oscilloscope with digital storage. There are some great priced Siglent DSO's on eBay, but you're looking at paying hundreds. Don't buy one of those junk USB things, since you'll end up having to buy a decent one afterwards.

          If you still maintain a carby and distributor controlled ignition engine, this multimeter is a bargain and very useful. For a computerized engine, if you think this will give you anything over a $5 cheapie for a computer controlled car, you're wrong. The clamp can only measure AC. Price up a clampmeter that measures DC amps if you don't believe me.

        • supnigs super skids on 29/05/2015 - 22:18

          @bm:
          hmm, what if the ECU is wrong because the sensors are not functioning? then what? Computers arnt always right. You need a device to isolate the problem. Thats what this thing does - A way to diagnose and validate. Sure, you may need more tools depending on the complexity of the issue. A normal DVM wont have an inductive clamp/thermocouple/min-peak measurements.

        • bm on 31/05/2015 - 20:19

          @dtnvong:

          What diagnostics would you do with an inductive clamp on a modern coil on plug engine?

          How would you use a thermocouple for your testing?

          What diagnostics would this meter do better than a cheapie such as this:
          http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-Multimeter-Auto-Range-Ohm…

          This meter can do nothing with the CAN bus. It can do almost zero more than a cheapie meter on a modern car.

          If you have an old car or bike, kettering/points/distributor ignition and know what you're doing, then it's a bargain.

          Now I await your reply, on a modern car, what exactly can the additional features of this meter help you diagnose? Try give me an answer.

          How do you measure the ECU with this meter? What setting do you use and how do you interpret what you read? How does this meter read the crank/cam angle sensor better than a cheapie DVM? How does this meter read injector output better than a $7 bluetooth OBD2 scanner? How does this meter validate injector output while cranking better than a cheapie meter or a noid light? How does this meter check oxygen sensor output better than an OBD2 scanner? How does this meter measure coil drive, condition and anything else better than a cheapie meter?

          Hint: It doesn't do anything better. You need a DSO or OBD2 scanner/bluetooth interface. Stop posting blatantly wrong information you know nothing about. If you're interested in learning the basics of modern engine diagnostics, search ScannerDanner on youtube - he has some fantastic guides on how to learn basic diagnostics and troubleshooting of modern engines.

        • supnigs super skids on 31/05/2015 - 20:54

          @bm:
          Okay, seriously. You don't know what you are talking about.

          Set to rpm on a single coil using clamp - check for ignition pulse. Validate a faulty ignighter /lead. There are modern cars with leads.

          Check /validate temp of sensors. Did you even know a car is programmed to idle at higher rpm with a cold engine to warm it up quicker?

          I have no idea why you are talking can bus now and obd before? What are you even on about.. You won't have both protocols on a single Ecu.

          Have fun connecting you $7 obd interface with your $500 or more computer.

          Why are you bringing O2 and injector duty cycles with the meter now? Clearly I never implied it did. Btw. You could measure O2 voltages using the meter if you wanted to.

          Lastly, it is called an automotive meter for good reason. It's useful for "automobiles" = cars.

          Seriously stop introducing thousands of dollars of equipment and comparing with this meter. Keep watching those YouTube videos too :)

        • bm on 31/05/2015 - 21:01

          @dtnvong:

          Set to rpm on a single coil using clamp - check for ignition pulse

          As opposed to removing the coil, putting a spare plug in and leaning it against a metallic part of the engine to check for spark? Sure, it won't tell you of weak spark (high compression requires higher voltage to get the spark going), but it'll tell you more than a meter will, and quicker.

          Check /validate temp of sensors.

          How will this meter help compared to a basic DMM?

          Did you even know a car is programmed to idle at higher rpm with a cold engine to warm it up quicker?

          Yes. Did you know many GDI engines also inject multiple times per stroke to warm up the pre-cat even quicker again? How will this meter help?

          Why are you bringing O2 and injector duty cycles with the meter now? Clearly I never implied it did.

          Oh, my bad.

          Btw. You could measure O2 voltages using the meter if you wanted to.

          How? What are you looking for? Can this meter respond quickly enough to measure a narrowband sensor? What are you looking for with a wideband sensor?

          Lastly, it is called an automotive meter for good reason. It's useful for "automobiles" = cars.

          Thanks. I've explained the how, what and why, can you now?

          My whole point is this meter is irrelevant for modern cars. A simple $5 digital multimeter will do everything this one will, however if you need more, this meter is almost worthless. IF you have an older non EFI car, this meter is very useful. Prove me wrong.

        • supnigs super skids on 31/05/2015 - 21:06

          @bm:
          Sorry, end of discussion. I don't want to turn this into the never ending story. Keeps going on and on. You're too smart.

        • bm on 31/05/2015 - 21:09

          @dtnvong:

          You haven't replied with a single example of HOW this multimeter is beneficial over a cheap $5 DMM.

          You are wrong.

          Then I saw this comment:

          Keep watching those YouTube videos too :)

          Mate, I dislike personal insults but I think you deserve one. You accuse me of not knowing something, criticize perhaps the most talented automotive electronic engineer on Youtube and can't refute a single question I ask.

          We both could learn a thing from this: You could learn from people that know far more than you, and I could learn to ignore dumb trolls.

        • supnigs super skids on 31/05/2015 - 21:35

          @bm:
          you need to stop being manipulative. That's the only reason I stopped with your questions. I answered your DVM question on the 29th and keeps going round and round in circles.. Like playing re-runs on TV..

        • bm on 31/05/2015 - 21:43

          @dtnvong:

          Would you discuss if we spoke facts only, without any emotion, opinion or leading/trailing questions or answers?

        • supnigs super skids on 31/05/2015 - 22:46

          @bm:

          I got some tools from the tool box you can have a look at. It is a professional DSO, multimeter, and OBD interface - all the good things you indicated. An internet troll only talks and wont need this equipment. I don't own the automotive meter but still appreciate its value.

          http://i57.tinypic.com/20k6ra1.jpg

    • [Deactivated] on 28/05/2015 - 11:33

      There's still plenty of older cars and bikes that need loving care. There are also plenty of uses for an automotive multimeter with modern cars.

  • outlander on 28/05/2015 - 10:46

    I thought one of the main benefits of an inductive clamp was that it can measure large currents? This thing only seem to go up to 10A
    something of interest

    • [Deactivated] on 28/05/2015 - 11:27
      +1

      The inductive clamp outputs voltage. You read the voltage off the multimeter and calculate the amps:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcFo35tyev0

    • bigticket on 29/05/2015 - 12:17

      From the dick smith web site description and photos, the inductive pickup appears to most likely be used for solely for RPM measurement and NOT for amperage. Hence the 0-10A range. Maybe "highon2str" can clarify.

      Having a inductive pickup for amps is extremely useful and can be purchased separately if you already have a meter without that functionality.

  • tyler.durden on 28/05/2015 - 13:09

    Anyone know or have tips how fault finding electronic circuits?

    There's so much components, how do u identify the fault part?

    • [Deactivated] on 28/05/2015 - 16:11

      The obvious difference is the ones you listed will take a month to get here and are more expensive than the pickup option from Dick Smith.

      The first one is an LCR meter, it won't measure voltage (volts) or current (amps). It's really only going to be useful to someone who knows they need one. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LCR_meter

      The others have pretty standard functions. They don't have the same automotive functions this one has, but would be fine for typical measurements - however, you can get something that'll do the basics for a third of the price.

      YouTube is full of good videos explaining multimeter features, what they're used for and how to troubleshoot circuits - a lot better than can be explained in the comments here.

      • tyler.durden on 28/05/2015 - 16:14

        so u are saying this is the best one or more advanced?

        can u find a similiar or better one on ebay for same price or cheaper?

        Normally I find ebay (from other sellers in china/hong kong) more cheaper than dicksmith/kogan prices..

        • [Deactivated] on 28/05/2015 - 16:45
          +1

          This one has some good features if you're working with car/bike electrical systems. It's not "the best", but is reportedly decent for $90, and a bargain at $32.

          If you want a multimeter that does the basics (like measure AC/DC voltage and current), you can get something decent for $10-$20. You'll get more features in a meter, but if you're not likely to use them, there's no need to pay more for the multimeter.

          Jaycar's $6-$20 range or Dick Smith's $9 cheapy. These will do the basics, as will comparably priced eBay meters.

          Then when you want something more advanced you'll know what you need. And a cheap multimeter in the car or cupboard is always handy. If a mate (or your kid) needs to borrow one, you won't be risking anything expensive.

          It's a little like a power tools - if all you need is a chainsaw, there's not much point spending a lot more money getting a package with hedge trimmer, whipper-snipper and lawnmower. But if you need those other tools, a bundle makes sense.
          Then you have the quality-price issue. If you only use them occasionally, Aldi tools will do the job. If you're a regular home handyman, you might pay more for mid-range tools from Bunnings. If you rely on them for your job, you'll probably consider paying for the top quality tools.

  • tyler.durden on 28/05/2015 - 15:22

    what is that larger grip/bump on the back off the multimeter?

    what is it not flat?

    • [Deactivated] on 28/05/2015 - 16:00

      Are you thinking the pic shows the front of the multimeter and a side view?

      The pic shows the front of the multimeter and the inductive/current clamp. This clamp can be placed around an insulated wire to measure the current. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Current_clamp

      • tyler.durden on 28/05/2015 - 16:10

        yeah, i thought that was a side view of the meter..

        Normally I don't see multimeter look like that from side view

        but now I see it is a separate item, like you said

        Cool, so we can measure current through insulation?
        How does that work?

  • lomie on 29/05/2015 - 10:06

    Thanks OP. Got one. Anyone found a case for it to keep all the bits together? I have a cheapie one and it came with a case which is handy because I take it everywhere.

    • greenie4242 on 30/05/2015 - 21:00

      Can't help with case recommendations unfortunately, but could you please check for me if the top left digit displays a full "8" digit when it's first turned on? I picked up one of these yesterday, and when the display turns on, all elements on the LCD turn on as a start-up test. On my meter, the left digit is missing the top left bar. I don't know if my meter has a faulty LCD element, or if it is only designed to display numbers from 1-3. The numbers 4, 5, 6, 8, 9 would require that missing element. Thanks in advance!

      • lomie on 30/05/2015 - 21:25
        +1

        Yes it is missing. It's like a mirror image of 6.

        • greenie4242 on 30/05/2015 - 21:58

          Thanks, that's very helpful! I was a bit worried it was faulty. Manufacturer must have saved themselves 0.0000001 cents by leaving that element out!

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