Similar deal to https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/215271 but 4 Watt output. Supercheap Auto online store only, their eBay store still shows full price. I did click & collect but postage was $7.95 for my postcode.
SCA Solar Maintenance Charger - 4 Watt - $20.97. Online only. Was $41.95.
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It comes with a 12v cigarette lighter plug. "Easiest" way would be to wire the cigarette lighter port to constant power (so its not isolated when you turn the ignition off) and leave the panel plugged into there.
It does not come with a 12v cigarette plug if you read the review someone wrote. All you get is what's in the picture.
Yeah fair enough, seems weird, the 2.5 I got with the last deal came with one.
Anyway, anyone that can tinker with the cigarette port in the car can change the alligator clips to a plug.
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It does comes with cigarette lighter plug. It comes with 2 plugs, cigarette lighter and battery plug. You can connect it directly to battery or to cigarette lighter.
You could wire it to the OBD2 diagnostic connector, which is usually under the dash, somewhere near the driver's knee. Pin 16 of the OBD2 connector is permanently connected to the battery, and is rated to four amps, according to the OBD2 standard.
how does one wire it thru the bonnet to the battery?
On OzBargain it's spelt 'bonut'
Could I leave the clamps connected to the battery at all times and then run the cable into the cab and plug it in when needed? Or would it be a bad idea to leave the clamps on all the time
they could pop off battery and interfere with engine parts - belts, fans, etc.
cut off the clamps and wire it to the battery terminals properly.Make sure you add a fuse to the positive terminal if you do that! I've seen car dashboards go up in flames because some idiot led a wire directly from the battery to their car radio or an aftermarket amplifer without a fuse.
If the wire shorts out on something, the entire length of wire will become red hot and melt through anything it touches. A fuse as close to the battery as possible should prevent this.
I bet you were just typing too fast, and meant to say, a fuse on to the positive side of the battery? Because fuses are often inside the car, so the fuse doesn't need to be close to the battery. (A short circuit blows a fuse instantly, no matter where it is in the wire.)
No, I'd go with what Greenie4242 said. What if the short happens where you fed the wire through the firewall, from the wire rubbing on a sharp metal edge?
Many cars now have some fuses built into the positive battery clamp, for this very reason. Note that these fuses have a high rating, so the skinny wire that comes with this solar panel probably won't blow that fuse - the wire will become the fuse!
The best spot to put the fuse is close to the power source.
Which is why you would take power from the battery side of the fuse block inside the car, instead of from the battery. Which I apologise to everyone for not mentioning before, due to being in hurry when typing.
BTW… Another well-known reason for not making a direct connection to the battery is, it creates another corrosion point. Which would reduce the (already small) amount of charge reaching the battery. (Driving lights for example, are often connected to the alternator instead for this reason.)
Some good options are:
The solution @Russ proposed above. (Though I haven't checked it myself, why would he bother to mislead.)
Shift cig. lighter socket +ve to a location that is always live without the keys (e.g. glove box light, interior light, central locking, etc.) - to the battery side of the fuseblock - jumpered onto an already-existing fuse (and maybe increasing the fuse size, depending on what's already running from that same point).
Same as #2 but terminate a new fuse onto the battery side of the fuseblock. (2A fuse is fine.)
Thanks OP, bought this and the air-drill too :)
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Black…
Are these any good for slow charging deep cycle batteries between camping trips?
Ill let you know over the next few weeks :-)
Just ordered one for back up and to trickle charge my Aux 150 Amp hr.
That's very cheap. I ended up buying the 4.8v one a month back for around 35 bucks or so.
Picked one of these up today - and promptly opened it.
It may be worthwhile mentioning that this is just a solar cell wired directly to the alligator clips. No diode or regulator that other (more expensive) versions have.
There is also no weather sealing to speak of. Lacking any circuitry inside the only issue may be if it fills with water and shorts the terminals running to the alligator clips - a distinct possibility since the lower half of the case will cause the water to pool. It seems to be designed for temporary use (or down to a price?) rather than set and forget.
Manufacturers often quote the best specs they can, which is often above what anyone in real life situations can achieve. Got a multimeter? Some here might appreciate you putting the meter inline to a battery - and see what kind of current it puts out in full sun.
4W @ 12V is supposed to put out 333mA (0.33A).
I guess these aren't much use for a car. One wouldn't be able to leave the car parked outside with one of these connected - it would have to be on the bonnet and it would easily get nicked.
Would be good if one could put it on the dashboard inside, but then how does one wire it thru the bonnet to the battery?