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Ozito RTR-2000 170W Rotary Tool Set with Flex Shaft + 109 Accessories ($25) (3yr Warranty) @ Bunnings (Vermont South, VIC)

1030

Saw this in Vermont South Bunnings in the tool shop. Had around 25 units marked down to $25.

Ozito 170W Rotary Tool set. Features:
- 170W motor 8000-35000 rpm
- Variable speed
- Flexible shaft length: 1m
- 109 Accessories
- Collet size : 3.2mm
- Use for Engraving, Polishing, Sanding, Cutting

The guy at the desk confirmed this accepts Dremel bits.

No link to Bunnings website, so here is the Ozito website:
http://ozito.com.au/products/rotary-tool-kit-109-pce-w-flexi…

Similar units from Dremel and Ryobi are over $100, in most cases with fewer accessories.

A lesser spec’ed Ozito model is selling for $49: https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-170w-42-piece-rotary-tool-…

This is a great deal for someone looking for a decent tool who doesn’t want to spend more than a $100. Comes with a 3 year replacement warranty.

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closed Comments

  • Receipt. Please.

    • +1

      go to the register.

      • +8

        Mine never has any of the deals I see on here so I have to price match them with themselves

    • still learning… i've got the receipt, where / how do i share it?

      • top of the screen click on "my account" and then go across to "files"

  • -2

    This is a great deal for someone looking for a decent tool

    Is it decent though ?

    • +5

      I am Mr Ozito!

      • +1

        Sorry, Friday night.

        • +2

          Frankly, I liked it. :)

        • @Jawanzar: "but my name's Frank Woodley!"

    • +4

      Decent enough for $25.

    • +2

      The actual device is great but I found many of the accessories absolutely useless. Fly apart on contact or last a very short time

    • +1

      my experience is NOT decent! It doesn't drill straight, no way near Dremel
      I use both for work on a daily base…

  • +9

    I've had one of these Ozito tools for about 10 years now. It still works, although there are a couple of issues:
    1. It should come as no surprise that the included accessories are cheap quality and won't last long.
    2. The chuck in the main unit is handled by that button near the head; you press that down and then you can unlock the bit. The problem is that that button is just a plastic bit to hold the head in place; eventually it wears down and the chuck is almost useless. My end solution is to attach the flex shaft to it and just use that; it has a pin hole to manage the chuck.

    Still, it's a good buy for $25, just don't buy it expecting to use it a lot and for it to last.

    • +10

      I had a dremel for around 15 years before it just stopped working. The accessories were quite good. Only the discs, drums etc wore down (as expected). I paid over $200 when I bought it. I'm amazed you can buy this tool for $25 and if it lasts me 3 years, I'm more than satisfied. Under 3 years? well, i'll take it back and get a replacement. :)

    • +3

      The chuck on mine wore out after about 2 hours of use (doing nothing crazy), but the thing still works as you described. Bunnings are pretty good about their replacement of these tools. Know a fella who got a sander or something and it broke down 3x over the course of the week, using it 6+ hours daily. They replaced it each time. Kinda meh to have to go back to bunnings over and over again, but overall hundreds of dollars were saved. Good deal.

  • If this is not at my local can I just show them this post and will they price match?

  • +1

    damn it, not in VIC , kinda want one of these or two - one for somone else!

  • +1

    Does it do metal?

    • +4

      heavy metal ?

    • Sure does. Just do not expect to get through much material with the included bits. Spend the savings on the tool on Dremel (or whatever other legit quality brand) bits.

    • Yeah I've cut aluminium extrusion and cast iron parts no issue (went through a good 10 discs on the latter though)

  • +3

    I bought one of these. The accessories are really poor quality and ill fiting. Several of the cutting wheels broke on the first day. I took it back and got a dremel kit which is much much better quality and much easier to use IMHO. When i took it back the bunnings guy said the ozito kit wasnt robust and that he wasnt suprise to see me bring it back. Apparently lots of people bring these back.

    I suppose at this price you can buy it as a short term disposable item. Just dont expect much.

    • +12

      I bought one of these. The accessories are really poor quality and ill fiting. Several of the cutting wheels broke on the first day.

      The cutting disks come in 2 kinds - reinforced and non-reinforced. The non-reinforced ones are not suitable for metal, and they also snap if they get any sideways pressure on them. The reinforced disks in the Ozito kit don't crack in normal use.

      I took it back and got a dremel kit which is much much better quality

      Since the accessories are a consumable, it's largely irrelevant whether the ones in the kit are any good or not. Irrespective of whether you use them in a dremel tool or not, the disks (of same brand) all wear at the same rate. So you will have to buy new disks anyway - plus the Dremels don't come with accessories, so you have to buy everything anyway.

      Therefore the logical thing to do is to save $175 or so on the tool, then pay the same bucks to buy some Dremel disks and things. Consider any accessory in the Ozito kit as a freebie, and then you won't be disappointed.

      I highly recommend the Dremel Ez-Lock chuck thingy and special disks. They are expensive, but they make a rotary tool far more pleasurable. The standard arbor on both Ozito or Dremel is an absolute PITA to fit the dinky little disks and a washer either side and a tiny slot headed screw then try and tighten it. The Ez-Lock solves all that.

      • Thank you. Very informative!!!

      • +1

        Its not just the disk thats the issue. Part of the reason that they broke was because the locking mechanism to the rotating tool was loose leading to vibrations and a lot of stress on the cutting wheel. The dremel locking mecanism is rock solid.

        You get what you pay for i guess.

      • More pleasurable? I see what's going on here.

        • Bit of the old polishing wheel.

  • Any in seen in other stores (like.. WA?)

    OP, pls update receipt :)

  • Just a got one at Vermont South store, about 5 left.

    • wow… there were over 20 just before 9 last night.

  • +20

    I have one of this Ozito model from a larger kit. I also have 4 of a Kmart orange model that I bought for $15 each. To be frank, these are rubbish… a Dremel is better machine. But like most Ozbargainers I am a scabby bastard and not prepared to pay the ridiculously inflated prices that Dremel charges.

    The flex shafts all fail - they come from the same factory and they are shit. The bearings are simply not capable of handling the rotational speeds, and there is no easy way to grease them. However they are easy enough to replace - get them from Banggood or ebay or other chinese site.

    You can also easily change the bearings in the handle of the flex shaft, even cheaper (but have to order from China).

    My Ozito died last year (seems to be the speed controller) and I have NFI where the receipt is, but in the meantime I am using a Kmart one.

    I hang them, and never hold the tool itself. Thus it';s like using a powered pencil on the end of the flex shaft. Due to internal friction you cannot get as much power from them via the flex shaft, but that is OK. They are only a teenie little kiddy toy really, and not suitable for that many unique things.

    Lots of people use rotary tools for unsuitable tasks like cutting flat metal sheet (eg: computer cases), which ends up taking 10 times as long as using a jigsaw or tin snips. Which reminds me - it's almost impossible to cut a straight line with a dremel type tool… as you go along your hand s are at the wrong angles to control the cutting blade so it's all wiggly. Also, if the blade accidentally touches one side of the slot, it can kick out of the slot and run across the face of the material you are cutting, doing a nasty burnout.

    Those kinds of are jobs far better performed with a jigsaw, tin snips and normal drill. I've seem Youtube videos of people using them to cut off bolts (leaves massive burr, and chews through disks)and cringed as I watch them crookedly cut aluminium extrusion (use a hacksaw). They are also useless for grinding and sanding large areas… the results are monumentally poor. This is not a tool supplement normal tools, not replace them!

    That said, I use mine quite often. Since it's hanging in the workshop above the vice, I tend to grab it our of hanit. The small rotary burs are really handy to clear off dags inside slots etc. Last weekend I used mine with a 0.8mm tungsten carbide drill bit to try and drill out a torx bit than I had snapped off inside a hole that I drilled into a bolt that I snapped off in a aluminium bracket. It didn't really work as the vibration and hand movements snap off the drills like butter!

    • +13

      What is the name of your next book, mate??

      • +42

        I've pretty much made my mind up on "Helping and informing ungrateful tossers for no personal gain"

        • +1

          Where can I preorder?

        • +3

          That explains most forum posts. Someone asks a question, someone helpful provides an answer, OP never responds back to say if solution was helpful or works.

        • Sold!

  • so, if I go to my local bunnings with this image, will they accept it for $25 ?? It looks good multifunction unit.

    • It looks good multifunction unit.

      This is a rotary tool, not one of those stupid multifunction vibrating tools.

      • I love the ozito multifunction tool. I was actually recommended that over the rotary tool and im now a huge fan. For bigger projects in metal, wood, plaster, the multifunction tool has been great. Particularly good for plaster cutting in corners and tight spots. Apparently great for removing grout, although havent tried that yet.

        Hoping to add a rotary tool at some point to the tool shed. Might go try some bunnings stores tomorrow and see if i can get a price match. Well worth a punt for $25.

  • +1

    All sold out at Bunnings Vermont South

  • Vermont Sth sold out…. sold last one just before I got there around 10:20 BUt Scoresby had stock so managed to pick up and they price matched Vermont at $25. One left as at 1pm

  • Heaps left Bunnings Warrigul road, Moorabin, 5+ but they're marked at $39 and scan at the same.

    I didn't even think to ask if they'd price match another store.

    None left at nepean highway Mentone.

    Gc

  • +4

    You can always ask but Bunnings doesn't usually price match from other Bunnings stores. There are many reasons why one particular store may have them on clearance and not others.

    • -1

      You Right,last time i try price match BBQ from other Bunnings,service guy at Bunnings talk me that Bunnings stores clear stock,so them cant match Price.so never try match price burnning with Bunnings it not work and waste time.

      • Similar situation happened today, they refused to price match against another Bunnings store. Location Darwin, NT if you're interested.

  • These are great for sanding and polishing small surfaces. Also you can use the grinding wheel for small jobs. The cut of wheels are useless.

  • Scanned for 40 in Hoppers Crossing, no discount. No chance of getting the receipt up Op?

    • I followed the instructions to load into files, but haven't worked out what to do next.

  • Great tool and as mentioned above get quality bits and you cant go wrong.

  • $49 in WA stores :(

    • There were 12 at Bunnings Ashfield, NSW. I showed them this ozbargain post and the image on my phone and they price matched it. I used it today to cut some brushless motor shafts and already went through 2 cutting wheels lol, I only really needed it to cut the motor shafts so I might return it or just periodically use the 3yr warranty. If you don't end up buying one don't worry since it's a POS.

      • I used it today to cut some brushless motor shafts and already went through 2 cutting wheels lol,

        You must use the reinforced cutting wheels for metal. The non-reinforced are for plastic, etc. There are usually 2 kinds in the pack, and the reinforced ones you can see a kind of fabric embedded in them.

  • Does anyone know if u can use this to cut a square hole in the ceiling? I am going to install a rangehoof

    • +1

      it will create so much dust if you try to grind the hole ….your kids will be talking about it on show and tell at school ….for about $3 they sell cheap chinese made plaster saws at bunnings and $2 shop.

    • +1

      To small. You could probably get away with using a multitool but not a rotary tool.

    • +2

      cut a square hole in the ceiling

      You use a normal drill in the 4 corners, and then buy what 'garage sale' said, a plaster saw - often called a jab saw, because you literally stab it through the plaster, then start cutting.

      In fact, you can cut plasterboard with ANY saw blade. The problem with saws and power tools is that plasterboard is made of powdered gypsum, which is like talc… so cutting it that way covers your entire house in a fine layer of white dust.

      But there is a simpler and more brutal way… The pro installer's method uses a snap-off bladed knife, a hammer and a cardboard box. You mark the square, then use a ruler and sharp knife to cut through the paper and paint, maybe 2mm deep.

      Then use the hammer and bash it right in the middle, to smash a hole though. Then continue smashing until you get within say 10mm away from your scored lines. Use pliers, fingers, teeth or whatever to snap off all the broken bits. Then, omce you have a clean and reasonably even border around your hole, make a few score lines with the knife by starting at the cut line and cutting towards the hole. Then bend it upwards with your fingers and it will snap into sections. Be gentle and work your way around, snap it off all the way around. You will end up with a perfect square, exactly edged by the pre-cut line around the outside.

      Final cleanup of dags using the cutting blade ) NO, not sandpaper, that makes dust). Hint: hold a large cardboard box under where you work, as close as you can hold it to the ceiling…collect I high like that and you will have very little mess.

      • Thanks guys for the advice.
        Am balking at the $300 quote to install, but it looks like a relatively easy DIY.
        And how bout the cornice?

        • You'll need a saw for that. I cut it using a hacksaw (18tpi) blade only (no frame) but any fine toothed saw can do it. You cut the ceiling first, then run the saw up to the ceiling edge of the cornice and cut using an up-down motion towards the wall.

          The challenge with your project is NOT cutting the hole, but to deal with the joint between the ceiling and cornice and the square exhaust cover which is plastic or steel. You can't just plaster it to make a nice seamless connection, as it will crack (maybe not straight as you'd like) all the way around, and look like shit.

          There either needs to remain a gap (hard to create, and not desirable anyway) or have some form of flexible joint filler. You could create a gap with a very accurate edge on the plaster side, then fill it with some form of silicone or elastic polymer.

          However the filler needs to really stick well to both side of the gap or it will pull away rather than stretch. To help and control that you have to make the filler thinner in the middle than at the sides where it contacts the steel and plaster, so it can stretch. That is usually deal with using a thing called "filler rod" (used for bathroom waterproofing)which you shove in there first.

          A pro installer might have a trim they could use. The only DIY thing that I can think of is a flexible tape that is used for sealing the joint between corners of tiles and around baths. Imagine really flexible and sticky silicone tape, with a stripe down the middle that has no adhesive.

          What I would do is tell a couple of installer that you or your spouse are really worried about that joint. Just to "set your mind at ease", ask them to send you photos of installations they have done previously, with close-up picture of that joint at the ceiling. Then you will learn how they do it :-)

    • +1

      Punch a hole with your hoof. perfect size for your exhaust

      • +1

        Thought about it, but my fist and foot isnt square, hahaha

  • How does this compare to he rockwell shop series rotory tool from super cheap?
    Their other products have been good.
    They're often on sale.

  • Picked one up from Blacktown, NSW for $39.98. Still a good price I reckon since i won't be using it much and can't justify the price for a proper Dremel brand.

  • +1

    dont trust the brand much. Most probably it will spin at 2500rpm and then break up with fragments lodged in every part of your face.

    • I bought a $149 Dremel 3000 on special and it's chuck didn't work properly in the first place. Then it gave in after a week or two, so I took it back. Swapped it for the (then) $39 RTR2100 120W Ozito with 218 accessories and didn't look back, a year later and the Ozito (and its accessories) are still doing me fine.

      And having had the Dremel, I can say my Ozito is probably as good as that Dremel 3000 at 4x price. American stuff is often every bit as dodgy as the SE Asian crap, which might be part of the reason that so many US companies invested so much in China right from the start.

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