Recently posted related deals
Found this when I was shopping at Costco today, thought it was a great deal and OZB might be interested.
Thanks all :)
Holly CHEAPPP GETTING 10!! Which costco?
Thats cheap.I feel so bad I told my friend to stock up 4 bottles of these at full price $40 when costco first started selling these.I thought $40 wasn't bad
I was at Costco casula NSW and they also had the 10w40 for $24.99
Casula and Crossroads are the same Costco store.
I know that.
I was just saying I also saw this at casula/crossroads and the 10w40 was available
Anyone in the trade able to explain how the grey bottles of Nulon differ from the gold variety (I always buy the gold bottles)? If indeed, are they the same oil but in different packaging (to prevent price matching etc.)? The specs of the 10w40 look almost identical.
I'm also interested to see what the difference between these grey 'Protect' bottles and the usual Gold Bottles are.
Gold bottles is dexon approved which means all GM cars (Holden) etc year 2011 on words must use for warranty purpose
Not in the know, but found links on their website for you to compare -
Also, grey bottle is Costco only as the below states from their website -
"Nulon Protect Range - Nulon Protect is a full synthetic engine oil range unique to Costco and is the premium choice for motoring enthusiasts and those wanting optimal performance from their vehicle. With its unique extra ingredients of Moly Dithiocarbamate (Mod DTc) and Moly Amine, Nulon Protect has been designed to provide the ultimate level protection for modern low viscosity petrol and diesel engines."
How much oil does your car really need a year?
It really depends on how many km you do. Fully synthetic can generally last 10,000km between changes.
mine is minimum of 4 and upto 10 all depends on my work and holidays :) I normally change my oil every 5000kms.
Turbo charged engine?
Just your daily highly abused engine. Lots of high rpm and long range driving(Average of 200km every business day).
My old Lancia Beta needed 1 litre added every 500kms.
So about 30 - 40 litres per year.
Is that just how it was, or was the motor a bit tired? Would a rebuilt engine do that too?
You need to use thicker oil, that will solve your consumption of oil use.
Say a SAE-20w/50 i would try, it will not damage your engine
So ozbargainers service their car themselves? Or you can give it to the dealership for a discount? Sorry, I'm new to Australia.
If you buy your own oil, I'd say you're 99% doing your own service.
Although, I can see people giving it to their local mechanic to save a bit on parts.
For an oil change ill do it myself.
But for a major service ill take it in.
Im not too sure how a shop would feel if you asked them to use the oil you supplied
I do it all the time. They just give you a discount for the service.
How do u know they will use your fully synthetic oil or just keep it for themselves and pour cheap mineral oil into your engine anyway?
@wtfnodeal: I watch them do it :)
Most dont let you see… especially dealerships.
@Izefyre: they allow you in the service area? You must be their VIP there.
@xywolap: a lot of dealership service centres don't even change the oil or service your cars at all. They just move your car from parking bay A to B and call you at 4pm your car is ready for collection. Very expensive parking fees LOL.
@wtfnodeal: according to a service manager i knew and another person that worked at a dealership for over 30 years… that does happen.
Most people are very happy if they get the stamp in the book… :-(
If they were going to substitute cheap mineral oil, they would use mineral oil regardless, so it's not like you'll be in worst position.
If you don't trust your mechanic/service centre, find a new one.
@JB1: ? How is it not in a worse position if they swap your fully synthetic oil for mineral oil without your consent? The problem is most people don't want to drive more than 20-30km to find a new service centre to get their cars serviced. Once your have tried out all the service centres and they all not honest then you will probably have to service your car yourself.
If they are that dodgy, They would have put mineral oil in there regardless if you paid them to supply synthetic oil anyway.
Self service, Oil change is so easy to do.
…unless you have a new car which is under the capped price servicing / warranty period. In that case you just do the fixed price service (which includes oil).
I'm unsure if full synth has any real difference in performance or protection over semi-synth for everyday driving. But at this price you may as well get the full synth. Can anyone comment on synth vs semi-synth for everyday driving?
Be careful going from mineral to full synthetic as I've heard that doing so can cause your car to leak oil as full synthetic flows better and can go through gaskets. Correct me if I am wrong.
I've heard that can happen if you change oil weights, specifically, changing to a thinner oil than what you normally would use in an older engine (with compromised/borderline gaskets/seals, etc.).
I've not heard of leaks happening when switching from mineral to full synth, but then again i don't really talk to people who know much about that sort of thing.
Scratch what I wrote… See zero velocity's comment (below)
Full Syn vs Semi Syn.
Depends on the car and also service intervals.
Turbocharged and extended oil changes (15,000km or more) you'll definitely want fully syn.
Yes we are tight, its a serious easy job to do.
Before using synthetic engine oil in an old car, as more than a few oZBargainers might have, it is worth knowing that the oil will likely attack (chemically break-down) any Butyl-rubber seals that the engine has. Typically this means valve cover seals, rubber pipes, and front and rear crank seals, but can also include valve cover gaskets and anything else made from rubber.
The rubber can cope with hot engine oil for quite a long time, but hot synthetic oil OTOH will break it down very fast. If the seals are already near end of life, synthetic oil will accelerate their failure by many orders of magnitude.
If just the crank seals fail, the engine will suffer major oil leaks and could drop enough oil to end in catastrophic failure.
I would recommend in cars that in any pre 1995 car- and many commodity cars up to current production, not to use synthetic oils unless the manufacturer specifically approves their use in that exact model.
It is much better economy to use a standard (not crap) engine oil and change it regularly than to use a synthetic one and then have to replace the engine or even a seal or two. And there are usually many. Upgrading a non-viton equipped engine to have viton seals everywhere is not something that can feasibly be done without removing the engine, or at least the transmission and a lot of ancillary parts- so can take many days of workshop time. And a lot of engines have special seals and rubber parts that are not available in anything other than normal butyl type rubbers anyhow…
When you say hot, how hot do you mean… Also, is a full synth OK in an 2009 Corolla. I have four years worth of castrol edge from this… https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/281816
By hot, I mean the temperature of engine oil (when the engine is at operating temperature).
I've no idea about Toyotas, sorry. Castrol make some good lubes when they get pushed to produce to spec in massive quantity, but what makes it to the aftermarket… hmmm.
If the manual specifies synthetic you'll be ok. Otherwise, you need to check with the manufacturer, and that means more than asking the dealer or the service personnel. The opinions of these people will vary, unless one can show you the advice that specifies your model (by VIN number or model, factory batch and production date)… engine type for example would be comforting but without date and factory is in many cases not enough to know what seals they used, because often (in most cases with most manufacturers, they only used viton seals in parts that use synthetic lubricants.
Viton seals are a few percent more expensive, and with companies like Toyota, any 0.012c o-ring that can be replaced by a 0.010c o-ring, is a saving that will likely be made.
FYI: If you want good lubrication, it is best to add Lucas oil additive to a good base oil, such as Penrite. This will make your engine run far better and make it last better too.
Yea no good son and bloody hot
Now I'm going halfta come around and recycle that all for u
Just leave it by the front door and also a sandwich wouldn't go astray as I could be a bit peckish with all that recycling I'll be doing
Just post up your address and none of you buggers look
Ps. If you've got a couple a beers,
I don't think many people would be putting synthetic oil in a nine year old Corolla.
but if it's the same price as a blended oil?
Some great points but this is not the right viscosity to run on these older cars. Synthetic or otherwise you will need a hotter oil
That's a bloody good point, I didn't notice it was 5W/30.
Though I do see people using lighter oils in engines that have heavier oils recommended, though probably also sythetics… lol
I see your username, what oil would you use for the following (serious question):
81.5mm smallport GZE pistons (8.9:1)
0.8 TRD metal head gasket
Toda valve springs
ARP head studs
ARP main bolts
Small port rods with ARP rod bolts
Crank + pistons +rods all balanced
Crank machined block, bored 0.5mm OS, decked
3mm oil restrictor in block
0.25mm OS ACL race bearings
Aisin oil pump
Eristic gaskets and seals
Bigport head, cleaned ports and 3 cut valves
Nice engine. I ran a 20v with 10w40 and it went fine.
Great build. For my 4agte I use Penrite 10 Tenths 10W-60. Turbo motors can get awfully hot. However as mentioned below a 10W-40 works well. Just don't go too cool like a 5W-30 or a 10W-40
@4agte: Thanks :)
Not my area of expertise. Maybe you didn't even mean me (?)
My comment is that it depends on things like:
Temps in the cylinders, at the flame front, etc.
Temps in the key wear areas (tho others must considered too)
Tolerances/tightness of bearings
Flow-rate and pressure of oil (measured at the key wear areas)
… as well as seal chemistry
So probably whatever the factory states for a performance version of your motor- assuming you are using its seals, etc.
I will toss in another fun fact, most retail synthetic branded oils these days are not 'synthetic'. They are actually 'group 3' synthetic, which is very high/top grade mineral based oil with additive packs. There is a chemical reasoning to why they call these synthetic but I won't go into that as I am not an expert.
So while your comments maybe true (I am not saying they are true or not as I am no expert) the nulon oil sold there or in gold containers are highly likely to be that of a group 3 base stock.
What engine oil would be good to rubber seals?
Leaking seals won't be an issue as at this price the oil is almost certainly not a true synthetic but rather a Group III hydrocracked oil.
I think that's what happened to me before. from mineral to shell 5w40 ultra helix = leaking seals.
been on semi synthetics since..
what car and year?
2004 Toyota corolla zze122
Damn mine is only 1 year younger. Maybe I shouldn't get this then hmm
if Ur seals have been replaced then u r good.
I highly doubt that it has.
I think it's been using semi syn from the beginning but the last 2 have been full (or so mechanic claims).
Nulon oils are considered some of the best on the market. Australian owned as well. 👌
Absolutely agree with this. While I use Penrite 10 Tenths Racing Oil in my weekender, I use Nulon in my daily and my mums car.
Everyone should run full synthetic (when suitable) and at this price there is no excuse not too.
Was the diesel 6L on sale too??
Can anyone confirm they have this in Docklands too? They have been stocking only 10w-40.
Two full pellets of 5w30 and 10w40
God dammit, I stocked up 24L of Nulon 5w30 at $39 for 6L thinking it was a bargain of a lifetime! lol
(Enough for 3 oil changes)
Of well, it was a bargain compared to $25/L the stealership charges.
This is an absolute bargain for excellent oil.
Good price. Will have to swing by Churchill SA store if they have it in stock. It's not in the current 'voucher' email.
Confirmed in stock and discounted price.
This oil is one of the best and Australian owned
Before you but any oil for your car please ring nulon helpline tech they will give you correct advise because this oil is not suitable for all car even if your need 5w 30
Nulon have five types of 5w 30
Eg; one friend was asking about gold bottle which is dexon approved special designed for GM cars(Holden) 2011 onwards to claim warranty
talking about oils, how's Gulf western semi syn 10-40?
bought 2, plenty of stock, is it really that good? having doubts here haha
wish i had a costco membership now
your wish granted!! Go buy a membership, buy oils, return membership later
can you do that?
yes? or you can ask me to buy some for you
Ill send you a PM
Problem is they will ban you from resubcribing as a member for 6 months - should be fine if you only want membership for oils
Full syn 10w-40 is same price btw.
It had diesel spec on the front of the bottle.
Petrol and diesel
Diesel only 5w-30 is $35
Oops I need new glasses! Thanks for clarifying.
Confirmed same price at Costco Moorabbin for both the 5w-30 and 10w-40.just picked up 2, thanks op.
OzBargainers appear to have finally woken up to Costco reality… till a few years ago deals with 'membership required' would not get that many votes…
Look it cost $60 for 1 year but you can save much more
I purchased exide battery for $110 for Cruze with 2 years replacement warranty but from outside same and similar battery were $199 + from kmart and century ,Nrma was $245+ so I saved $90+
They don't ask any questions when you return products or membership
You can save when you buy alcohol because some products are cheaper than dan etc
I believe you can save much more if you have big family
Big family is key. But some savings from non-grocery items can pay for the membership. Fuel savings can help to, although the service stations nearby will follow the Costco petrol price.
They ask questions when you return items.
Thanks alot OP, picked up 5 bottles of 10w40 at crossroads today. Heaps of stock left
Plenty @ Ringwood, Vic.
My cars' [Mazda2 DY] workshop manual states I need "ACEA A1/B1 or ACEA A3/B3" engine oil*, would this be appropriate? If not, any recommendations? The manual recommends "Mazda genuine DEXELIA" but I assume that's the Mazda house brand that has an insane premium.
Thanks in advance.
yes will be fine
i have no good things to say about nulon. We did a burn test on the their fuel system cleaner vs wynns. It leaves a sticky residue on the metal spoon where as wynns or i suppose any other good brands will leave a smooth surface
Only 10w40 remaining at Crossroads
Plenty at Brisbane Costco