Did I Take a Bad Deal? 2013 Suzuki Swift GA

Before I delve into the details, please note that I have never Owned a car before (though I have driven cars once in a while) and my knowledge about what to look for and how to maintain a car is limited if not poor.

I have been contemplating getting a car for a few months now. It was getting kind of necessary because walking home with all our weekly grocery shopping, taking public transport to visit friends and relying on friends to take us (me and my partner) around for trips nearby was getting kind of bothersome. I will still continue to take the public transport to work. So, I was looking for a small, economical second hand car in the 9-11k price range that could be resold for a good price (8k?) 2-3 years down the line.

I tried to look for good deals with private sellers but the ones I did meet ended up seeming very shady and some of them hid some details about the car till I actually met them in person. So I finally decided to get a used car from a dealer. I checked a few dealerships before settling on a 2013 Suzuki Swift that had done 98k. The car looks almost brand new on the inside and outside and has a good color. The dealer was quoting a $11,800 driveaway price tag with rego till November this year. I managed to get the price down to $10,500. I paid a $500 deposit and I'm supposed to pay the rest and collect the car the coming Saturday.

I'm probably gonna draw a lot of flak for saying this but i'm feeling some buyers regret after seeing a 2015 Hyundai i20 in near mint condition that did 35k on sale for $11,400 at a nearby dealership. I dunno if it would have been possible for me to haggle and get the price down a bit more on that one but I really like the interiors of the i20 over the Swift and i'm worried the resale value of the Swift will drop quite a bit once it crosses 100,000km run.

I would be interested in knowing which car holds more value for the price. Also, would it be possible for me to back out of current Swift deal with a full refund of my deposit?

Comments

  • +22

    Also, would it be possible for me to back out of current Swift deal with a full refund of my deposit?

    No.

    • Why not? I got my deposit back from a car dealer when I decided not to buy a car.

      It depends on the wording of the sale contract I suppose.

  • +1

    tell them you don't want it, can't get the rest of the money and they will keep your $500. learn and move on

    • +1

      So you think the i20 was the better deal eh?

      • -2

        No, if someone rear ends your car, you're in a world of hurt. Same with those echos.

        • You weren't actually asked. But if you can provide details on any other small car that isn't a complete write off after a fender bender, I'd love to hear it. TIA.

        • +2

          not sure how hard you've been thinking, but my i20 has been rear ended - right hand side corner.

          Other drivers insurance replaced the entire right side of the car, rear fender, rear door, lights. Maybe you're getting at how expensive it would have been to repair!

        • Why a world of hurt? Insurance would cover this and it'd likely be the other person's fault.

        • +1

          @imurgod: I am guessing he means there's not much metal between the back of the car and whoever is sitting in the rear seats. If something big hits you, the potential for injury in the back seats is higher than with a larger sedan or even hatch. Just guessing though.

        • @picket23: Ahhh. I couldn't comment on that. I have no idea how safe they are.

        • @Murdrum:

          I'm thinking anything at 80kph and above.

  • I'd prefer the Hyundai, bigger, newer,less kms but personal preference and is dearer. Is it possible to take the Hyundai for a test drive and see what you think.

    • A swift is larger and more powerful than an i20 đź‘Ť

  • +33

    The swift is a much, much better car than the i20 so don't think you have made a bad choice. Enjoy your new car.

    • +4

      Yeah people tell me that Suzuki cars are more dependable than Hyundai. And i'm surprised to see so many relatively new (2 or 3 year old) Hyundai cars listed for 5-6k lower than its original price while Suzuki cars seem to have comparatively better resale value

      • +7

        my sister has an i30 and its an OK car, niece had a i20 and it was pretty poor going by the few times I was in it.It just felt like a cheap car.

  • We have the 2015 i20, lags up hills and brake pads wore in a year. Hopefully the dealers have done the pads on the car you are looking at. Payoff is that it's really economical. Still would go for a Swift if I had the choice due to assumed extra performance.

    • +1

      It's a 2013 model so will be an FZ swift with the asthmatic 1.4 engine just like your i20. A girlfriend owns an FZ swift and she's for reasons unexplainable to the dealer gone through 4 ignition coil packs since new. Not a huge or expensive fix, but has repeatedly left her by the side of the road. Brake pads are a consumable item and like most Hyundai owners seem to, you can just drive around with that horrendous brake squeak if you like.

      The i20 and Swift are both equally appalling/dangerous on the open road, having barely 100kg in weight and 5kw power between them. Particularly with a few passengers and some air con.

      • -2

        First up it's not my car. Brakes seem weak on the car. There's no squeaking, so not even sure if pads are the issue. Drove a new Accent and has what you would expect in stopping power from a new car. i20 is a budget offering and Swift seems more sportier/designed for that audience.

        • +1

          Ahhh here we go, the backpedalling begins. So now it's not your car, and now it's not the brake pads.

          As an FYI the brake pads on the i20 and accent are made by the same supplier, with the same materials, and are identical in size within 5mm in every dimension - so I'm curious to know how the heavier accent stops better than the i20 - particularly when Hyundai themselves quote 100-0 times for the i20 and accent at 41.4m and 44.3m respectively. They share the same engine and manual transmissions. The accent is an i20 in a pretty, slightly larger frock but I'm glad Hyundai marketing power works for you.

          I'm so sorry you took so much offence to my off the cuff remarks about the car that apparently isn't even yours.

        • -2

          @jackary: You made several personal attacks, as I've noted below. You also seem contradictory in every post you make. Eg: you've just mentioned Hyundai's marketing above yet use the same marketing figures to make a point.

        • +3

          @shadako: And I said sorry!

          I quoted two Hyundai spec sheets and made a subtle hint that you were perhaps buying into the marketing spin of the Accent? I'm a little confused as to what your point is? Hold the answer - I don't care and 100% wish I did not bother tapping out a snarky reply on a forum post about hyundais.

  • +7

    If you wanted a good price, a private sale or used car auction would be the way to go. Generally, dealers make a living on sales of cars and this would be reflected in their car prices.

    Your problem is you already put in the $500 deposit. The thought of losing $500 for nothing is very painful.
    But this is equivalent to paying $500 more for the sale price of the Hyundai i20.

    So now you must view the Hyundai i20 at $11,900 plus the addition cost of time and not just $11,400.

  • +2

    You could talk to your dealer with a story like one of your mate is moving overseas and so you are getting his car. So you do not need this car and would like to drop the deal. Sometimes you might get away with it. But do this only if you decide against the swift. $10k for 100k kms swift seems very high in my view.

  • -1

    Before you bail on the Swift, you want to be sure the i20 is still available.

    What if you buy the Suzuki and then trade it in on… I dunno, an i20.
    (only if this is a better deal than losing the $500).

    • Lol no just no, it won't be $500 difference.

      Trading in with dealer on a 98kms swift will get him $8k most, making a short of $4k from the i20 that he's after.
      (no matter how you tell the other dealer that you've just drove out your swift from the last dealer at $10k)

      • +1

        Yeah, I know…

        The ($500) deposit math just doesn't work on this one…

        I'd take the i20 because of lower km's and balance of Hyundai Warranty.

        • Same here.. Warranty is super important :) but that's just me i purchased two i30's in the past 3 years brand new.. best cars money can buy. 5 years warranty .. full sized spare alloy wheel to match the cars current alloys and leather seats and leather everywhere for $21k drive away in Auto.

        • +1

          @vid_ghost:

          'Leather'

        • +1

          @Spackbace:

          LOTS OF leather :)

        • +1

          @vid_ghost:

          Pleather ;)

      • But he doesn't need to do a trade-in. All he needs to do is give up the $500 deposit to not buy the Suzuki.
        I'm not sure how you got 4k drop in value in a few days, but assuming you are desperate to sell, this implies the OP fully owns the vehicle.
        OP has only paid $500 deposit and is expected to pay the rest this coming Saturday.

  • +4

    Usually at about 100k to 120k mileage, the car may require some major service to be done. There is a reason why the last owner tries to offload at under 100k.

  • +1

    For TS, swift is a better driving car than i20.
    You just need to justify yourself for paying $10.5k on a 98kms swift.

    Has the dealer done the 100k major service ? (Not that I'd trust them for what they've claimed.)
    100k major service will cost your deposit or more.

    Btw, have you got your valid driving license ?

    • Yes I have a valid license :)

      I don't know about the 100k service. Is it something that I can/should ask the dealer to do? Without having to spend more?

      • +1

        It's something you should ask before committing on buying a car. Always ask for service history.

        You'll have a better chance before paying your deposit but no harm trying.
        Most likely they've done the engine oil change & filter & top up some fluids, that's it.

        100k kms service has a full list within the car manual booklet, although not everything is necessary but they're preventative maintenance.

      • +15

        You got 3 business days to back out from your swift deal at the expense of $100 off your deposit.

        https://www.consumer.vic.gov.au/motor-cars/buying-a-used-car…

  • +1

    You can back out. Just say your finance fell through. For that kind of price you can get a near new i20, rio or rondo.

    • You mean like buying a house where the contract stated with a clause - "Subject to finance approval" right?

      If that clause is not specified anywhere in the car sales then it's not valid and TS only entitled to 3 business days cooling off period with a penalty of $100.

      • Yeah. I have done that before and got the deposit back. I guess it depends on the dealer.

    • +2

      Yes. I regularly shop my micro hatch against 7 seat people movers also.

  • +8

    Surprised it's just a GA, must be one of the last. GL became the base model around then as far as I remember.

    I'm a Suzuki salesman so feel free to take this with a grain of salt.

    Keep the Swift.

    It's going to be a good car for the next few years, won't cost you much to run and won't have any major issues.

    Main car I recommend to family & friends and know that they won't whinge about it 6-12 months later ;)

    • +1

      I agree, they are underrated and a great little car. A little plain inside but that's the only negative.

  • You bought a small car with a 98,000km for $10,500? Why did you do that? You can buy a demonstrator for not that much more. Like here's a demonstrator Yaris for $15,000 - https://tinyurl.com/levoosh, and it's the 1.5L version as well.

    Plenty of great Yaris cars for around the $15,000 for a demonstrator - https://tinyurl.com/kyacz9p

    You can also have a look at other options as well, such as the Mazda 2 - https://tinyurl.com/k898txl

    How about the Kia Rio - https://tinyurl.com/le7sv3n

    And then there's the Nissan Pulsar - https://tinyurl.com/lpucklu

    Why did you spend $11,000 on a car with 98,000km?

    • +3

      There's a good reason why Swift resale is stronger than the competition…

      • Not hating on the Swift, he could have gotten one of them new for not much more either.

        • +4

          "Not much more"…? Try about $5k more…

          Not exactly same ballpark

        • @Spackbace:

          What are some of the negatives of the Suzuki swift? I had one of the old ones and they were pretty good for the old traffic light GP.

        • @Kranbone:

          Probably really just a lack of features, which the new model will fix.

        • @Spackbace:

          As a suzuki salesperson can you objectively inform us of what models are better than your current models? Really want something a bit more fair and balanced. What do you think are better buys than your products?

        • +2

          @Kranbone:

          Unfortunately I haven't seen/driven the new i30/Rio etc so I couldn't say.

          If you want fair & balanced, no matter what I say it won't be received that way. Hell someone even chucked a neg on my all of comments lol

          You want to know what's 'better?' Try them out for yourself and see what you think. Everyone has different opinions, and different features they prioritise.

        • +1

          @Spackbace: I love the looks and seating of Swift. As I have current high seating car/SUV, I dont like low seating car.

        • @Gaggy:

          Ignis is higher than the Swift, but similar proportions. Certainly interesting having that higher position out of such a small car.

        • @Spackbace: You're right. I've owned the old Ignis Sport, Swift GTI, and an old Sierra and they were an absolute hoot.

          Off the record, if someone can buy a car and pay for the amount in cash are you less inclined to offer them any deal compared to someone financing?

        • @Kranbone:

          Yes and no. At the end of the day we need to sell cars, so if it's a doable amount we'll do the deal regardless of payment method

    • +3

      going from $10k to $15k is a big jump in price.

      we bought our son a Kia Rio for $10k but no way would I have spent $15k for one a year or so newer. The car is simply not worth that money.

      • +1

        It's not a car that is "a year or so" newer, it's a car that's almost 100,000km older. Given that most of these chic city cars are dumped by the time they get to around 250,000km, you're buying a car that's already nearing half of its life span.

        • I was comparing the rio we bought for 10 to one a few years newer for 15. Comparing the same model car.

          I understand your point, but in our case we had a certain price point and didn't want to spend more… every time we looked it was " if only we spent a little more" 8,10,12,15…

    • +6
      1. I wanted an automatic transmission small car which was not more than 4 or 5 years old
      2. 15k is a 50% hike from 10k. My budget was 11k max because I did not want to take a loan.
      3. 10.5k was the driveaway price for the swift which included rego till the END of the year.
      4. For 15k I would prefer getting a brand new swift over all those cars you mentioned (except maybe the yaris)
  • -8

    Why do people even consider small cars? Once you have a car you'll be transporting greater amounts than previously imagined…

    • +4

      Are you calling OP fat?

    • +3

      That's tight, they car makers have got us conned. No one needs a small car, but the advertising just makes them so cool they sell millions.

      • I quickly found a mid-size family car wasn't large enough for my needs. Granted that most of the time I'm the only passenger in the car, but boot space and passenger carry capabilities are important.

        • Oh I agree, I bought a 1991 corolla as a second car, but my wife hated driving it and so I wasn't 'allowed' to borrow the bigger car car very often. Now we have two big cars, a 7 seat SUV and a twin cab ute, for passenger space and load hauling ability.

          But my point is that millions of people do use small cars very often, and they are completely suited to the task for those people.

        • @Euphemistic: Small cars are not terribly useful as they are, most small cars have seats that are just as small as economy plane seats - not very comfortable. For $10-15k you can get a second hand larger car, why not future proof your purchase and get something more useful right from the get go?

        • +3

          @niggard: because fuel is expensive and so is rego and insurance. Smaller lighter cars are cheaper to run and own. Why buy a car bigger than you need, especially if your current lifestyle doesn't really need a car at all.

          For driving yourself and one passenger and collecting groceries etc a small car is enough. With the back seats folded down you can fit a fair bit of stuff into a small car. The money saved in owning a smaller car can pay for deliveries or renting a larger car as required.

          If I was financially struggling, or more saving/investing focussed, there is no way we would have two large cars. Having the large second car is a luxury we can afford.

  • +4

    Swifts are much "rad'er" looking cars,

    id pick one over an i20 any day.

  • Swift is a very good small car.
    Spacious, economical for a 1.4L engine.
    It is so good that my family once own 2.

    11.5K is a bit expensive though but that is what normally car dealer fetch.
    You could possibly get it in private sale below 8.5K for the same car.

    • I got it for 10.5k driveaway with rego till the end of the year (so essentially about 10k). I would have liked to get it cheaper via a private seller too but I gave up after having my time wasted over three weekends by all sortsa shady sellers. I just decided that going through all that effort and uncertainty was not worth the extra 1.5k I would be paying at a dealer.

      • +1

        Congras anyway. Hope the deal didn't leave you any bitter taste.

        Buying 2nd hand car from dealer has advantage like the provide 3 months warranty.
        And some minor cosmetic damaged (if any) would have already repaired (as this could lead to a higher sell price)

        Resell value of Swift is quite good in private sale.
        Sold my earlier Swift S (2007 make, 130K km) 2014 at $7k on Gumtree.

        • Na no bitter taste as such.. I admittedly don't know much about cars but after all my weeks (:P) of research I was just a bit uncertain about if the i20 would have been a better deal and I was a tad bit worried about the car approaching 100k run.

  • +15

    Considering all the points made here by people more knowledgeable than me I have decided to stick with my Swift purchase.
    Thanks all!

    • +1

      Enjoy :)

    • +1

      My father in law has 2012 Suzuki swift used as a driving instructors car with 250,000 kms on the Odometer and it's still going strong. Only issue was an air-conditioning compressor which went recently in the last 3 months. So assuming your car was well looked after you have many years of happy motoring ahead. Enjoy the car.

    • Enjoy!

      I bought almost the exact same car in January (2013 model with 97k). It's been a dream. I paid $10,000 but it was listed at $13,500. I think that the amount you paid is pretty ballpark.

  • 100km is nearing a major service. It is also above average km for a car (average is 15-20 K km per year)

    If you want the i20 I wouldn't regret losing the deposit on the swift, it sounds like it is in much better condition. But make sure you like how it drives

  • +1

    Not just for OP but for people in general, have a look at the Redbook pricing before you buy. While Redbook is NOT meant to be the bible of car resell pricing, but I like to use it as a general indicator and start working from there.

    http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/2013-su…

    Suzuki Swift 2013 GA should resale for $8,400 to $10,000 and the mileage should be between 60k and 100k

    • Good reason Redbook means fk all…

      Carsales shows prices from $9,999 - $12,990 for 2013 GA Swift automatics. That's where the market is. Not to mention your Redbook price guide is based on private sale, not dealers.

      So best to check the market before purchasing, not some unreliable site.

      • Funny enough you mention that, Carsales owns Redbook

        Like I said, not a bible, use it as a yard stick

        • But your yard stick would make someone think they overpaid by $1500 by buying a $10k car.

          Certainly not good advice to be giving unless you want to just be giving people buyers remorse for no good reason.

    • I actually did look at Redbook and I thought the pricing was right. Point to note that the car has a metallic mineral grey paint (which is my most preferred color) and it has 7 months rego remaining. Also, like Spackbace mentioned, Redbook's price guide is based on private sales and not from dealerships. Considering all that, it doesn't look like a bad deal to me

  • -2

    Between the two, I'd get the i30. Swift is a very old model (hasn't been majorly updated for a long while - a major update is coming very soon so would definitely do some damage to your resale value down the track)

    But if you already paid $500 deposit, then you'd have to add this expense on top of what you'd pay for the i30, which hinders the advantage of getting one.

    You can try talking to the dealer with the i30 to see what you can do with your situation in the Swift dealership (trust me - they would help you with all they can to get you out of the Swift deal lol).

    Are you getting finance to pay for the car? A friend of mine got full refund on the deposit after the finance didn't get approved.

    • You only get a refund if you dont get approved since its out of your hands if you get serviced or not unfortunately if you change your mind or any other reason say goodbye :(

    • +2

      Seriously can you read it says i20 they're not even the same class of bloody car

  • Neither, you could do a lot better with $10,000, you definately won't be getting that $500 back if you back out no matter how much you try GL

  • +8

    Good lord reading this lot of comments has been painful. OP please realise how very few people actually read your post as a lot of the advice being offered here is based on incorrectly answering a question that apparently was too hard for many to read and/or understand.

    Few things to correct: For an FZ swift the major service is at 80,000km, not 100,000km. So the "looming hell" is over. Just check the book and make sure it's been done. Servicing for the swift is also capped and estimate pricing is available here. Word of advice though, if you can't afford to service the car you're trying to buy, don't bother. Another thing worth mentioning is that the Swift uses a timing chain as opposed to a belt like on the i20 - the belt being much more expensive to replace, the chain generally maintenance free. Budget $500-$750 for the belt depending on how much of a pushover your mechanic thinks you are on that given day, and you should really do the water pump while you're there (another $200-$300, but the only way to get at the pump if it dies in the next 100,000km is by removing the timing belt all over again… so I guess it depends how lucky you're feeling). The timing belt will be due at 100,000km or 5 years on the i20, whichever is earlier. Doesn't take long to hit that…

    I'm the biggest advocate of hyundais having owned nearly half a dozen myself now, including a 500,000km stint between 3 Excels and oddly enough an earlier model i20. The i20 might have the odd issue or 2 over the years but a huge portion of the running gear is from the Getz, Accent and Excel. The major stuff will last like the sands of time, and what doesn't last will be cheap to replace. An earlier commenter had a whinge about brake pads, I'm not sure why if I'm honest, a genuine front set can be ordered directly through Hyundai for $26 and fitted for $55. Earlier last year I replaced my power steering pump with a new genuine part for $231. FITTED, INC LABOUR. Sigh… some people are idiots.

    But would I pick an i20 over a swift? Absolutely not. The i20s are great - and there's a reason every single hire company has a fleet of them (namely the cheap parts) - but the swift is a class above the i20 in build, fit and finish, and the way it drives while concurrently being just as reliable. They might look the same but honestly the swift really does feel 20 years newer and more refined, and you notice it as soon as you jump in. If still in doubt.. test drive them back to back and you'll see what I mean :) Best of luck.

    • Servicing for the swift is also capped and estimate pricing is available here

      I stopped reading after that. It wasn't capped in 2013.

      Actually kept reading lol last part does sum it up well

      • Is OP buying the car in 2013??? Suzuki have been happy servicing my housemates MY13 FZ GLX at the capped rates since she bought it used a few years ago. Hyundai also allow this. I even had my Hyundai excel capped price serviced a few times. Would you like the receipt?

        Edit: I see reading above that you work for Suzuki - feel free to follow up and confirm but I am certain the above is the case with Suzuki QLD, however I know QLD are under some different bizarre arrangement to everywhere else.

        If that's the best a nitpicker such as yourself could pull apart from my above comment then I don't think I did too bad.

        Thanks. Having owned and driven both extensively I think I'm in a position to make an actually useful comment.

        • Suzuki QLD is a different franchise to the rest of the country, to the point that prices etc differ, so it wouldn't surprise me that other aspects differ.

          OP would have 12 months/15,000km service intervals. Under CPS it has 6 months/10,000km intervals. Depends what you're after.

          actually useful comment.

          Oh you'd be surprised how helpful I've been to OP over PMs

        • @Spackbace: I am so glad and surprised to the point that I'm going to bed :)

        • @jackary:

          That's nice…

        • @Spackbace: What are you up to?

    • +1

      Don't appreciate being called an idiot, car's not even mine? Unsure of why you are personally attacking posters and having diva tanties lol.

      Good lord reading this lot of comments has been painful. OP please realise how very few people actually read your post as a lot of the advice being offered here is based on incorrectly answering a question that apparently was too hard for many to read and/or understand.

      @Spackbace: Redbook is SO unreliable that every insurer worth their salt uses it to value your car if it's a total loss. OK. You seemingly know "fk all" either lol, but nice work throwing your weight around acting like a smartass while concurrently adding absolutely no new information. Bravo, thankyou for being the epitome of what a lot of people hate about OzB of late! Have a nice day :)

      FYI insurers don't use the version of Redbook that's on the public website, they use commercial versions that are updated more frequently. They also may use combinations of valuation sites (eg: Redbook and Glasses guide for Suncorp). The Redbook is often way out compared to Glasses guide and how the insurers measure the risk.

      • You're such a straw clasper! How much more frequently are they updated? Having had 2 cars declared a total loss by RACQ I know for a fact that at least their valuation was based on Redbook alone. While I didn't push on the semantics of WHICH redbook they sourced the value from, I have it in writing, and perhaps just by coincidence the figures were on both occasions reflective of the Redbook website. It's also in RACQs PDS.

        And you are acting like an idiot. Brake pads are a consumable item and cheap and if they wore out on your 2015 model car… then it's 100% the fault of someone who isn't you that owns your 2015 i20. I'm taking my diva glitter and tappin dafuq out, what a mess!

  • I owned a 2012 swift sports
    The worst car I ever owned but that's based to the piss poor dealer servicing and warranty support i had from Q suzuki who by the way are useless here

    Well the fact the Q Suzuki dealer up here in springwood is a joke, wanted 509 dollars for a 35000km service, what the actual ….

    A good car that I got a good deal on in 2013
    18k drive away with 4000km on the clock
    CVT shit itself at 100,000km
    Ended up handing it back to the finance company and am now battling the dealer and Suzuki

    Claimed I topped up the transmission with the wrong oil, funny considering it was serviced at their dealership and they gave the car back worse every time

    Turned me off Suzuki for life
    Might of got a shitbox lemon but one thing for sure the swift sports was a gutless piece of shit
    Well the Jatco (Crapco CVT) they use was, should have got it in manual

    Apart from this it loved the 7200rpm rev limiter

    • CVT shit itself at 100,000km

      Claimed I topped up the transmission with the wrong oil, funny considering it was serviced at their dealership and they gave the car back worse every time

      Was the oil changed in the CVT unit, they will tend to do that if oil isnt changed within time or if wrong oil is used. Best to get proof from dealership that oil change was done and take an oil sample for analysis via independent mechanic.

      Ive got a matured Jatco CVT in my car and I think its awesome. I did go over the top with my own DIY CVT servicing, replacing the internal cartridge filter, cleaning the internal strainer filter and magnetics in bottom of tranmission sump. Now car is more quieter and smoother than the first day I purchased it 4 years ago.

      Dealership only ever do a straight drain & fill without filter change or internal cleaning, so new fluid would get contaminated quickly without the extra steps. Ive only ever had 1 minor servicing at a dealership due to 2nd hand car still under warranty. They couldnt change my engine oil to the correct level or properly diagnose mechanical noises, had to give them a helping hand. Also dealership gave me funny untrue stories at the beginning, until they realised I knew what I was talking about. (DIY home mechanic) I find it hard to trust dealerships doing a correct job.

  • Don't regret. Keep and enjoy the Swift. It's fun to drive.

  • I bought a Hyundai a long time ago. Would never buy again. Maintenance was very expensive.

    I'd enjoy the Swift. Have been looking to buy one myself as well. It sounds like you could have haggled around $1,000 less though, but I'd say just take the car nad learn the lesson for next time.

  • Yeh as people have said 100k km you need the major service.
    I think it's the timing belt that they recommend changing.
    I'm no expert but I had to get mine done, I think they have to remove a lot of stuff to get it done so labor costs a fair bit.

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