This was posted 6 years 6 months 18 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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50% off Selected Lubricants Online @ SuperCheap Auto

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50% off a selected range of lubricants/oils at Supercheap Auto.

Buy online, store stock only - so you may have to shop around a bit to find your desired oil.

I found a country store that had all the different oils I wanted, so maybe think outside metro stores.

Don't forget CashRewards, and use your (discounted!) Supercheap gift cards if you have them!

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  • +43

    Thank goodness, my local chemist are out of stock…

    • +21

      I clicked on this purely for a comment like this. Certainly not disappointed but didn't think it would be first comment lol

      • +2

        I clicked on this purely for a reply like this. Certainly not disappointed but didn't think it would be on the first comment lol.

  • Gulf Western Supertak chainsaw chain oil - I like it.

    • I recently purchased some, is it any good? Having regrets didn't buy penrite.

      • I tastes a bit salty

    • Mate, would you have any qualms about using this in a Stihl chainsaw? Looking for advice because the genuine Stihl synthetic oil is ridiculously expensive like $25/litre expensive.

      • As someone who grew up surrounded by chainsaws, we only ever used the cheapest motor oil that we could find (like the home brand oil at a supermarkets). All it needs to do is lubricant the chain for a split second, before being flung off (onto the log or ground).
        Even vegetable oil would work (though you probably don't want it to go rancid…)

        • My dad used to use sump oil. I'm pretty sure it didn't work as well as actual chain oil, so chain life may have been shortened, but since it costs nothing I think it's worth it.

          Actual chain oil sticks to the bar and chain much better, so you don't need to feed it as much.

        • @Spam Service: Yeah, it also doesn't spray dirty black used oil all over your boots and up your trouser leg too while using it!

      • I use it for my little Stihl and two no name brand saws. I don't think my chain wears abnormally. I bought two bottles a number of years ago and am happy.

        It is for the chain/bar, I use Stihl for the 50:1 mixing of fuel.

        • +2

          Thanks for that. I'm gonna give it a go. Downloaded the Stihl patent for the rotary piston oil pump in mine along with the data sheets for both the old + new versions of the Stihl SynthPlus genuine oil & this Gulf Western stuff. I figure if Stihl can change their blend of SynthPlus from 22cSt viscosity to 85cST viscosity overnight in the name of being 'environmentally friendly' without any machine design changes at all, then changing to Gulf Western at 1/5th the price isn't going to do any harm either. The Gulf Western incidentally is virtually identical in tech specs to the original Stihl SynthPlus before they changed it in 2015 to be all 'green' and marketing image conscious.

  • Perfect for the post after it

  • +7

    Oh, don't mind me. I'm just here for the comments.

  • +2

    Got excited for a moment, then realised the post is about car lubricant.

    • Each to their own.

    • +3

      Well as some people say, you can park the car in her garage so in that instance car lubricant is sufficient? ;)

  • +1

    Just don't use this with this deal https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/334455 lol

  • +1

    Penrite Full Synthetic Engine Oil - 10W-40, 20 Litre $99, or $94 for new member with bonus credit.

  • +7

    I once spilt a 44 gallon drum of lubricant on my driveway. Now any amount of cars can fit in my garage.

  • Why is Mobil 1 0W-40 Engine Oil - 5 Litre over $100? Any diff from ones from $30-$100?

    Can this be used for my Honda 2000 accord with 190k mileage?

    • +2

      Mobil 1 is top shelf mate. All round protection, fully synthetic.

    • There a is product selector on the mobil 1 website. Check it out for their recommendations

  • +2

    Holy shit Mobil 1 half price! Thank you so much!

    • Is it that much better? Have been using castrol edge.
      Also worried if i buy 5L what will i use the left over 1.5Ls for. Have a few containers of oils sitting waiting but tempted justvto see what this apparent good stuff is like.

      • I run it in a small turbocharged engine, if you're putting it in a stock engine that doesn't rev very high or you live somewhere real warm I wouldn't bother. I just want super good protection in winter for the turbo.

        • I have a small .7L 3 cylinder turbo cahrged engine im trying to do the best i can for.
          There is the nulon full synthetic in 10L for $61 I could get as well. No idea if thats any good but the price is tempting.

        • @DarwinBoy: haha do you own a copen

        • -1

          @ccsvchost: had to google copen. Nope. Something cooler. Smartcar

        • @DarwinBoy:
          Someobes jealous i have a smart it seems or they are a copen owner

      • 0 weight oils are low friction in that they are low viscosity ….. so you will get better mileage.

        they used them as fill for monaros being sold into the usa market to get the fuel efficiency numbers up.

        i used to use it in my bmw but now skimp on running costs and use 5w30, but t this this price i might treat myself.

        • +1

          Keep in mind that the winter weight (0W) doesn't mean anything after it's warmed up. If you compare a 10W-40 to a 0W-40 their viscocity when hot is the same, the 0W is just thinner when it's cold. So 0W would be better in colder environments, but the 2nd number is more important.

          If you want a thinner oil, 5W-30 would be better than 0W-40.

        • @Spam Service: Correct but generally 0W oils are superior, they offer greater overall protection hot or cold if for example you are comparing say 0W-30 vs 5W30. It is usually a better quality oil that is why 0W oils are more expensive.

        • @adr8: 0W oils do not offer greater protection when hot. The 2nd number in an oil multigrade designation is an equivalent SAE viscocity grade at high temperature. So a 0W-30 will have an equivalent SAE viscosity grade of 30 when hot, and so will a 5W-30. Once hot, they behave exactly the same. That's what the numbers mean, it's the very definition of the SAE multigrade designation.

          There could be an argument for using a 0W-* oil on an older car that requires a thicker winter weight because when the car was manufactured oil technology might not have been advanced enough to allow, say, a 0W-40, so a 10W-40 was specified instead. But that's very unlikely, and only on much older models. In the huge majority of cases, if a manufacturer states 5W-30 for an engine, using 0W-30 will be detrimental. If 5W-30 were better for the engine, the manufacturer would recommend it.

        • @Spam Service: You are missing my point I didn't say to deviate from manufacturers spec. A 0W-30 oil is better quality than 5W-30 and being a better made product offers greater protection hot or cold.

          If we go by your theory all 30W oils are the same quality irrespective of brand or manufacturing process. What I am saying is it costs more to manufacture a 0W oil and it provides better protection as a result of the better manufacturing process.

          If you visit bobistheoilguy forum plenty of discussion on the topic, they compare specs of both and show that a 0W oil usually has better specs and offers greater overall engine protection.

        • @adr8: I never said that 30W oils are the same quality regardless of brand or manufacturing process (in fact, I wasn't even referring to the winter grade). I said that a lower winter grade doesn't mean it's better.

          I'm sure that there are plenty of 0W oils that are better than cheaper 5W oils, but that's not comparing apples with apples. If you take two oils of the same brand, and one is 5W-30 and the other 0W-30, you will see no difference, but you'll probably spend more on the 0W. If you live in Siberia that 0W might be worthwhile.

        • @Spam Service: And all I am saying if you compare same brand 0W-30 and 5W-30, the 0W would be a better quality oil it will also have higher levels of certain additives that reduce wear and promote longer oil change intervals.

          Here is a quote from bobistheoilguy forum "The main advantage of 0W oils for most application has nothing to do with extreme cold temp' starting performance but rather that generally 0W oils have higher VIs than 5W and heavier oils. In that sense they are more of a multi-grade oil"

        • @adr8: And having a higher VI makes no difference once at temperature. Some would argue that 0W oils are better for a cold startup, but from just under your quote on the bobistheoilguy thread: "don't assume that one particular 0W will offer better cold start protection than a 5W. You have to dig a little deeper than that."

        • @Spam Service:Yes it does. VI, an empirical, unit-less number, is a measure of the change in viscosity of oil relative to temperature. Oils with a high VI will exhibit less change in viscosity at increased temperatures than oils with a lower VI.

          As higher VI translates to a more stable oil viscosity across a broad temperature range.
          They are formulated to resist thinning at elevated temperatures, using high VI synthetic lubricants can deliver superior protection.
          http://www.lubricants.total.com/advice/oil-viscosity/what-is…

  • +1

    I came here for comment research purposes

    • +1

      Username checks out.

  • Thanks OP. My gf loves lube

  • Has anyone here actually found differences between brands of oils they used (eg could go further intervals between oil changeouts etc)

    Which ones do you guys prefer and why?

    I'm currently using Nulon, but seriously can't feel any difference between it and the penrite that my previous mechanic used.

    • +1

      Unless you are racing or using cars with turbo-charged engines, for most cars which you are not gonna own for more than 10years fully synthetic or semi-synth is not going to make a difference.

      Most people don't send their oil for lab testing anyways so there's not much point asking, since most wont know how their oil holds up at 5k/7,5k or 10k oil change intervals.

      Just use the oil with the correct viscoscity for you engine and daily running conditions and change it probably every 9 months depending on how many kms you do.

  • hey guys, Im meant to get 5W-20 engine oil. The closest I can fine is 5W-30, is that ok, also what about the mobile 1 5W-50 or 0W-40 engine oil ? is that still suitable?

    I have an elantra 2013

    any advice would be much appreciated

    • +2

      All of it will work. Remember an at temperature increase in minimum thickness will decrease fuel economy by around 2%, for every 10. No difference in cold temperature flow rate between a 0 and 5, just that a 0 can withstand even colder temperatures and still flow within what it's rated for.

      An increase of the at temperature thickness from your 20 to 30 is fine, especially if the car is near 100k on the odometer, as it will help keep things sealed nicely where tolerances are now increased from normal wear.

      At the end of the day it all comes down to what's available and what it costs.

    • +1
    • +1

      Each of the oil brands have good websites to give you reccomended oils. But i read them and wonder as well whats best.
      My thinking is that i live in Darwin. Would the same oil be as good if i lived in Hobart?
      Minimums dont go below 25 in summer and 16 in winter so think i could run a higher W?
      Hope someone can give you good answer anyway.

      • +3

        @cool kid : its just an elantra, not much diff. between 5w-20 and 5w30. Almost all supposedly "full synthetic oil" of 5w30 will get sheared down to 5w20 after some time in the engine anyways. Mobil 1 0w40 is quite good, but as above will get sheared down to 0w30 after a while as well. 5w50 might be a bit thicker and probably good for places up north like darwin.

        @DarwinBoy : for you don't get anything less than a 5w in front and probably at least a 5w30 if not 5w40 oil. Someone in hobart will be better off running a 0w30 or 0w20 oil in freezing winter temps. I'm in brisbane and run 5w30 Penrite Racing 10 all year round. It's a fully 100% Pao Ester oil(real 100% synthetic oil), so wont get shearing and at 100degrees has viscoscity at perfect 10.

        Two main things oil companies dont publish much are the amount of good stuff in the oil like moly/zinc/boron and also the HTHS values

      • @cool kid : its just an elantra, not much diff. between 5w-20 and 5w30. Almost all supposedly "full synthetic oil" of 5w30 will get sheared down to 5w20 after some time in the engine anyways. Mobil 1 0w40 is quite good, but as above will get sheared down to 0w30 after a while as well. 5w50 might be a bit thicker and probably good for places up north like darwin.

        @DarwinBoy : for you don't get anything less than a 5w in front and probably at least a 5w30 if not 5w40 oil. Someone in hobart will be better off running a 0w30 or 0w20 oil in freezing winter temps. I'm in brisbane and run 5w30 Penrite Racing 10 all year round. It's a fully 100% Pao Ester oil(real 100% synthetic oil), so wont get shearing and at 100degrees has viscoscity at perfect 10.

        Two main things oil companies dont publish much are the amount of good stuff in the oil like moly/zinc/boron and also the HTHS values

  • +1

    No KY???

  • When does offer end?

  • +1

    Instructions unclear.I now have a rash.

  • +3

    Just grabbed some Mobile 1 0W-40 after only getting some on Saturday for the 35% off sale! Thanks OP!

  • Got an old car from the 80s still running fine, was told a while ago to put very viscous oil in there, I think it was like 20w50 or something. Am I remembering correctly or was that bad advice/memory?

    Wouldn't be bad to find some oil.

    • The older it is and the more it leaks, the thicker the oil. To a point..

  • what is the right lube for Luke's lightsaber?

    • Depends how deep you want it to go.

  • 4T lawnmower Four stroke oil available in Labrador but no Marine 2 stroke.

  • Hi guys, I have a 2001 Holden Acclaim V6, what would be the best lubricant here for my engine?

    • +1

      I used to have a 2002 VX V6 with lower klms for age(115,000 in 2010) used Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 for the 4 yrs that I had it and it drove beautifully no oil usage to mention knocks or rattles, but it had oil and filters changed every 10,000 klms during my ownership

      Sold to a mate 3 yrs ago who has kept using the same type of oil and done about 200,000 k since purchase and the thing still drives (accelerates/cruises) as good as it did when I had it and it had 115,000 k on the clock.

      MIND YOU
      If your car is not in perfect shape engine wise, rattles or burns through oil, then just use a cheapo 10 40 oil

  • lube it up just in time for the weekend

  • Need motorcycle engine oil, unfortunatley nothing good here…

  • +1

    Good price on the valvoline synpower 5w-30 got me some for the next service. Thanks!

  • +1

    Aww… wrong type of lubricant… :(

  • I'm single so I'll pass

  • Some good prices there still, especially on 2-stroke.

  • +1

    Grabbed a few bottles of the STP 10w-40 Full Synthetic. $25.00 is a steal

  • Went in tonight to get my oil and in store they still had all the STP range 50% off

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