Car Maintenance: Which Tools You Should Have with Your Car?

codinghelloworld on 13/11/2018 - 13:38

Hi everyone,

Recently I had to use my spare wheel in my car since the original tyre was flatted. Spent nearly 1 hour to replace one tyre, I realize that I need to store some professional tools with the car to make the process quicker. Those are: inflator and impact driver to unscrew the nuts.

After research, found that Bunnings has some options:

For inflator:
Ozito 12V Li-ion Cordless Air Pump (https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-12v-li-ion-cordless-air-pu…)
Ryobi 18V One+ High Pressure Air Inflator - Skin Only (https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18v-one-high-pressure-air-…)
Ryobi 18V ONE+ Volume Inflator - Skin Only (https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18v-one-volume-inflator-sk…)

Looks like the Ryobi 18v High Pressure is the only option can inflate tyre. Can someone give me some review on this? Or is there any better option, that can be brought with the car?

For impact driver:
I found heaps of options:
Ryobi One+ 18v (https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-one-18v-impact-driver-skin…)
AEG 18v (https://www.bunnings.com.au/aeg-18v-cordless-impact-wrench-s…)

Which one is best?

Thanks

Automotive

Comments

  • kolorijo on 13/11/2018 - 13:42
    +11

    NRMA Road Assist App

    • codinghelloworld on 13/11/2018 - 13:45
      +4

      Took one hour to arrive just to inflate the spare tyre, since while waiting for them, I replaced it.

      • gimli on 14/11/2018 - 18:32

        Did you use the app?

        • Kangal on 15/11/2018 - 15:13

          The internet was lagging…

      • mubd1234 on 15/11/2018 - 15:54
        +4

        My radiator hose blew off once on the F3 heading up from Mooney Mooney towards Newcastle. After getting towed to safety at Mt White from an emergency bay on the freeway, I was able to re-secure the hose, but the patrolman refused to even give us some water because of liability or something.

        Instead they wanted to tow me to Gosford so the nearest NRMA mechanic could gouge me. He left, so I ended up urinating into the radiator in a desperate attempt to try and get back down to the Mooney rest area where I could get some more water.

        My membership was not renewed.

  • oscargamer on 13/11/2018 - 13:42
    +34

    You need a spare that's inflated, a jack, a wheel brace and about 7 mins.

    • codinghelloworld on 13/11/2018 - 13:46

      Apology, forgot to mention that my car has jack (scissor jack), wheel brace. All the tools to replace the tyre. But I found that need electric impact driver and inflator can help to do the job faster.

      • oscargamer on 13/11/2018 - 13:58
        +18

        So would practice.
        Check spare tyre pressure once a month. Not that hard.
        Make sure nuts are not put on with an air hammer operated by a gorilla.
        I kid you not, I rotate my tyres, with a scissor jack and brace. Takes me all of 20mins to do all (including getting everything out and packing it back up)

        • codinghelloworld on 14/11/2018 - 13:46

          "Make sure nuts are not put on with an air hammer operated by a gorilla."

          About this, if I understand correctly, you mean should not use nuts with electric impact driver, because it can be over tighten, is that right?

          • oscargamer on 14/11/2018 - 14:35
            +3

            @codinghelloworld: nuts should be applied with a torque wrench, to the correct torque for your car.

            but rule of thumb - use the tool that came with the car, as hard as you can, without A) hurting yourself or B) jumping on it/using your feet

            • codinghelloworld on 14/11/2018 - 14:42

              @oscargamer: I have problem with my arm so cannot screw it tight, so I guess I can use my leg to push the wrench, without jumping on the wrench?

              • John Kimble on 14/11/2018 - 14:47
                +1

                @codinghelloworld: You really shouldn't have to jump on anything or use your feet.

                Kind of hard to explain, but are you able to stand facing perpendicular from the car and pull on the supplied tool to tighten the nut, using mostly your body weight? Works the same to loosen, just in the opposite direction.

                • codinghelloworld on 14/11/2018 - 15:06

                  @John Kimble: I think I can, as the last time, I put the wrench into location, and use whole body to push it, push to the left to loosen, right for tighten the nut. However, the nut seems stick too hard for long time so I pushed it with my body and leg to loosen it.

                  • John Kimble on 14/11/2018 - 15:09
                    +1

                    @codinghelloworld: Yeah, pushing can be harder than pulling with body weight, unless your arm issue prevents you from gripping properly.

              • trongy on 14/11/2018 - 20:53
                +3

                @codinghelloworld: I have found that a cross brace is so much easier to use because you can apply force with both arms and it doesn't tend to slip unlike many of the car manufacturer's include tools.

                e.g. Supercheap Auto A 4 Way Wheel Brace - Metric, Chrome

        • kmwa on 14/11/2018 - 19:56

          I carry a rubber mallet in the boot so I can undo wheel nuts that have been overtightened by tyre fitters.
          I was once caught out without a mallet, and had to use the jack on the wheel brace to turn it, the wheel nuts were insanely tight and I couldn't shift them by hand.

          • lookalive on 15/11/2018 - 10:07
            +1

            @kmwa: You should invest in a breaker bar, or alteratively, find a thick metal pipe the length of your arm that fits over the cross brace, breaker bars do carry a hefty price tag. I've been using both my arm and leg for the last 20 years and while I can do it quite easily, recently the nut was so tight I actually bent the cross brace, didn't believe it was possible.

        • movieman on 15/11/2018 - 18:00

          Question.

          If you rotate them every month, do you use two jack's?

          Thinking to maybe start rotating our car wheels..

          • oscargamer on 15/11/2018 - 18:20

            @movieman: I definitely do not rotate every month. WAY too much effort.

            I rotate mid-service interval.

        • Name on 16/11/2018 - 11:57

          I once had to get my whole hub replaced because some idiot used a, don't know what, but they forced the nut on skewed and it had to be ground off. Didn't realise it was a problem until my tire was punctured and needed to replace it. This was a long time ago and RACQ ground the nut off for me, switched it over and let me drive off with 4 nuts instead of 5. Probably wouldn't get away with that now given all the health and safety and legal liability stuff that goes on these days.

          Over the years I've struggled to get nuts off. I'd highly recommend getting an impact drill to get nuts off. Put them back on using your cross brace.

    • idonotknowwhy on 15/11/2018 - 01:50
      +1

      a jack

      I've got 20 jacks from the last time Ebay had a JACK20 sale!

  • unco on 13/11/2018 - 13:43
    +5

    1 hour to replace the wheel with the spare? I think with some practice you can cut that time by more than half and save yourself the money on those tools.

    • codinghelloworld on 13/11/2018 - 13:47

      I mean 1 hour: read the manual and step by step replace the tyre :D, while waiting for assistance to arrive (one hour)

      • tekisei on 13/11/2018 - 19:04
        +1

        Yeah first time changing tyre takes a crazy amount of time, 90 minutes for me.

        Dropped to 20 minutes by the second time I changed a tire, which was a couple of weeks ago.

    • greater mimic on 15/11/2018 - 10:08

      I changed my car true for the first time yesterday, looked up a video and went through the manual, had to find where everything was stored, and it took me about 45 mins to complete and put everything away.

      The next time I do it should be about half that lol

  • Nugs on 13/11/2018 - 13:43
    +5

    "Which one is best?"

    practice changing the wheel at home.

    if it is done up with the wheel brace, you will only need the brace to undo. just make sure it is as tight as you can without jumping on it.

    .

    • codinghelloworld on 13/11/2018 - 13:50

      I was overconfident with screwing the nuts tightly. But after the Roadside assistance arrived, they used impact driver to fasten the nuts, I thought I did not screw it enough. So that's why I think I would need impact driver, is that right?

      • p1 ama on 13/11/2018 - 13:52

        An impact wrench won't be able to tighten things as well as you can by hand using a breaker bar. They might be faster, but they don't have the torque.

        • aussieprepper on 13/11/2018 - 16:56
          +1

          What? Modern battery powered impacts do upwards of 1000nm of tightening torque depending on size?

          • askme69 on 13/11/2018 - 17:55
            +1

            @aussieprepper: Milwaukee M18

            • aussieprepper on 13/11/2018 - 18:12

              @askme69: Yea they are beasts the M18 range. Makita offers a bigger impact now 1000nm tightening and 1600nm nut busting torque. Few years ago like 4/5 years ago one of my mates bought a Snapon 1/2 impact that has like 400nm and my other mate got the SPtools 1/2 impact which is like 450nm of torque now days they get mowed down lol. The Milwaukee is a decent price compared to the Snapon which is like double the price.

          • p1 ama on 13/11/2018 - 18:30
            +1

            @aussieprepper: The one that OP linked is a Ryobi which does 160 Nm of torque. This is easily beatable with a long breaker bar and some elbow grease.

            • AnneThrope on 13/11/2018 - 18:47

              @p1 ama: first hit for a google of 'wheel nut torque' is the below - almost all are under that 160 Nm and average under 120.

              https://www.errolstyres.co.za/content/wheel-tyre-assembly-to…

              However, the idea of hauling around a multi-$'00 electric tool for this task seems like overkill.
              As you've observed, 160 Nm is roughly 16kg at a metre and shouldn't be impossible with even a simple wheel brace and a good kick.

              • Bargainkappa on 14/11/2018 - 20:01

                @AnneThrope: Yep, most manufacturers specify around 100-120nm of torque for tyre nuts, you definitely don't need anything bigger than then ryobi.

            • macrocephalic on 15/11/2018 - 12:31

              @p1 ama: 160nm is easily exceedable with the standard wrench which comes with the car. 160nm is ~16kg on a 1m arm. The standard toolkit wrenches are about 30-40cm long, say 30 for worst case scenario. You'd need to apply [the equivalent of] 160/9.81/0.3 = 54.4 kilograms of force (yes I know kilograms are mass, not force, but no one knows what a newton of force feels like).

      • oscargamer on 13/11/2018 - 14:05
        +2

        you need to back those nuts off now, because trying to remove them later won't be possible without a gorilla

        • codinghelloworld on 14/11/2018 - 13:54
          +1

          Sorry if I understand you correctly:

          you mean I should untighten/unscrew the nuts because the Roadside assistance guy screw it too tight?

      • John Kimble on 13/11/2018 - 14:33
        +11

        You don't need an impact driver to change a tyre once in a blue moon. Roadside assist guy uses it because he can and probably changes multiple tyres a day.

        • philmccracken on 14/11/2018 - 21:35
          +2

          Exactly. He uses an impact driver to make it faster so he can get to the next job quicker. Means having to wait only 60 minutes for them to arrive instead of 63 minutes.

        • Sweetnsour on 14/11/2018 - 23:21

          Agreed. Your impact driver will run out of batteries by the time you need it. Better check tyre pressure of spare tyre next time you check the pressures. Hopefully you check tyres regularly for pressures and wear and tear.

  • rompastompa on 13/11/2018 - 13:46
    +7

    Unless you're regularly getting flat tyres, I would just manually do it.

    It may have taken you one hour this time, but next time will be much quicker ~>20 mins.

  • p1 ama on 13/11/2018 - 13:51
    +3

    Get a breaker bar for around $20, it'll majorly save you the effort. I wouldn't bother with getting an impact wrench, it won't save that much time. How often do you have a flat anyway? An air pump might genuinely be useful, so that's not a bad buy.

    • codinghelloworld on 13/11/2018 - 13:55

      Do you have any option with air pump? The one has battery so you can bring with your car. I think better option is that it can recharge with cigarette socket when you are driving.

    • askme69 on 13/11/2018 - 17:56
      +3

      Aldi torque wrench for $20 makes the perfect breaker bar on full tilt. Better leverage and cheaper.

      • codinghelloworld on 14/11/2018 - 13:56

        Thanks, like other suggested. A torque wrench will save money for me.

  • GG57 on 13/11/2018 - 13:59
    +2

    Do you intend to re-inflate the flat tyre with the pump, or to top-up the spare tyre?

    Regularly check your spare tyre inflation level, when you inflate all of the other tyres, and you probably won't need a pump.

  • Salinger on 13/11/2018 - 14:06
    +2

    The batteries for your Ryobi tools won't stay charged forever.
    You need a 12V pump to inflate your tyres.
    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/ridge-ryder-ridge-ryder-…

    And like everyone else has said, use a longer "breaker"-style bar to tighten or loosen your wheel nuts as required.
    https://www.autobarn.com.au/orcon-wheel-wrench-extension-21-…

    You'll be able to save yourself $200+ by just making sure your spare is always inflated and ready to go.

  • boomramada on 13/11/2018 - 14:09
    +4

    They should add, how to safely remove a wheel as part of the driving licence test.

  • [Deactivated] on 13/11/2018 - 14:15
    +1

    Uhhh. You need a T wrench and a jack.

    You'll be the first person ever to have cordless tools to change a tire.

    Maybe spend a couple of hours doing tire rotation for practice. 1 hr to change tires is also quite extreme.

  • HighAndDry on 13/11/2018 - 14:16

    Honestly, just check your tire pressure regularly. A tire pump only helps if the tire itself is in fine condition - lots of cases where you need to replace the tire that won't be the case.

  • ColonialBoy on 13/11/2018 - 14:44
    +2

    You need a spare tyre that you keep pumped up, and a tyre wrench/breaker bar.
    I use the 1800KG Pro-Lift jack from Repco, often on sale, because that's what RACQ uses.

    Milwaukee makes a 12V tyre inflator. https://www.totaltools.com.au/123900-milwaukee-m12-compact-i… . This works with the 12V tool lineup.

    The 4WD places have them too. When traveling over sand you need to inflate & deflate tyres. https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/thumper-air-compressor-kwik…

    Every couple of years I check the nuts and wheels to see that they can be changed easily. I add some Herschell silicone paste for lubrication.

    An impact driver will not change tyres! You need an impact wrench! https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-one-18v-3-speed-impact-wre… And you won't need one at all if you lubricate and check BEFORE you get a flat tyre!

    Also see https://www.reddit.com/r/VEDC/

  • Bid Sniper on 13/11/2018 - 14:44
    -3
    1. Don't buy cheap tyres, more expensive tyres have puncture resistance.
    2. Can of tyre goo, first attempt.
    3. if that fails, then use factory jack kit.
    • p1 ama on 13/11/2018 - 18:33
      +1

      Can of tyre goo, first attempt.

      I don't recommend this stuff. It's an easy quick fix, but it basically means you have to scrap your tyre.

      • RedHab on 15/11/2018 - 12:33

        Why will you have to scrap the tyre?

        • p1 ama on 15/11/2018 - 19:22
          +1

          It'll basically spray glue all over the inside. Fine for getting you home in a pinch but renders the tyre completely unrepairable.

  • Cartman2530 on 13/11/2018 - 15:13
    +1

    A pocket multimeter, you don't need anything big or flash, since all the voltages you will be dealing with are 12v max.
    Chuck it in your glovebox and forget about it. Handy for checking the battery voltage, and fuses, etc..

  • Richardc on 13/11/2018 - 16:14
    +1

    Just use a metal pipe attach to the wheel brace. A foot pump to pump up the tyre.

  • singlemalt72 on 13/11/2018 - 16:25
    +1

    You don't need an impact driver - just put in a length of pipe that will slide over the supplied lug wrench to extend the handle. Honestly, with a little practice anyone can change a wheel with the supplied tools in less than 15 minutes.

  • aussieprepper on 13/11/2018 - 17:01
    +2

    Impact driver will be a waste of time considering that if you leave the battery in the car it won't last long. Ambient temp is summer can be 60+ degrees in a car while the max temp of a 18650 cell is meant to be around 80 degrees while being discharged and recommended storage temp is like 25 degrees. You will kill the cells fairly quick i ended up moving my battery powered tools out of the shed cause it was to hot.

    If any thing get a breaker bar and a socket set that will make the job easier and faster and get a 12v pump.

  • [Deactivated] on 13/11/2018 - 21:11
    +1

    you don't need an impact driver which will probably have flat batteries by the time you go to use it. You need a piece of strong steel pipe to use as a lever on the wheel brace.

  • garffi on 13/11/2018 - 22:20
    +1

    Getting an impact driver is an overkill, unless you're changing tyres everyday. You're better off spending that money on a torque wrench to tighten the nuts. Get a breaker bar and loosen the nuts before jacking up the car.

  • PlasticSpaceman on 14/11/2018 - 09:32
    +4
    1. Don't bother with an impact driver unless you are changing tyres regularly at track days. If you keep one in the boot for emergencies, you will almost certainly find the battery will be flat when you try to use it and frankly if used improperly they can do the nuts up too tight risking thread damage (although that's far more likely to happen with a breaker bar). It would take me maybe five minutes to change most tyres with manual tools - all it needs is a little practise. Put the jack under the car and raise it until the tyre is almost off the ground. Loosen the nuts. Raise the car further until it's high enough to put the spare on. Spin the nuts off with fingers. Take off the flat tyre, and put on the spare. Spin the nuts back on. Lower the car to where the tyre is touching the ground enough to stop it from turning. Tighten one nut, then the nut on the opposite side, then another nut, then the nut on the opposite side of that. When you've done all of them in that way, check them one more time. Let the car down, put away the tools. If you don't have a pump, drive to the nearest service station and check the pressures. Get the flat tyre fixed.
    2. Just check the spare tyre pressure when you check your normal tyres so you know it's fine. You do do that once a month or so, don't you? If it seems to be losing pressure, get it checked.
    3. As others have said, you have the kit in the car needed to change the tyres, just stick with that.
    4. Things you should have in the car are a decent first aid kit with a 'space blanket', a temporary windscreen, and a folding reflective warning sign. Nice to haves include an inflator, gaffa tape, a multi-tool, an empty bottle, a torch (although at a pinch a mobile will do - but you might want to save the battery for that if you've broken down), jumper leads, and an umbrella and/or a disposable poncho.

    Most cars now are fairly complex beasts, so if you break down - other than due to a flat tyre - you will struggle to be able to fix it yourself. Long gone for most of us are the days when you would hunt around in the scrub looking for fencing wire to fix the throttle linkage in your LJ Torana (yes, personal experience). The first aid kit and blanket are to help people in an accident, the sign is to prevent you from being hit by another car if you've broken down at night and/or are trying to help someone else. The inflator is just in case you haven't checked the spare for a while and it's a bit low. The temporary windscreen is basically a clear sheet of plastic that you can use in the event that your screen is smashed - allowing you to get home. The empty bottle can be used to get water if your car overheats - again, a temporary fix to get you home, although check with your car as just using plain tap water in your cooling system may be a nono so you should just wait for roadside assistance. The gaffa tape can be used to do a temporary body panel fix and help keep that temporary windscreen in place. Jumper leads can be good to have, although make sure they are good ones with surge protection - the cheapies can fry the computers in some cars (including your own if you are trying to be nice and helping someone start their car). The poncho/umbrella can help keep you less wet when you break down, and the torch allow you to see, as frequently it will all happen when it's raining and dark.

    Finally, always make sure that you are somewhere safe when working on your car. If you aren't, then drive the car where it is safe. Yes, it might make horrible noises, but just do it. Or wait for roadside assistance to come with their nice big van with bright flashing lights. Why? Well…..

    https://www.qt.com.au/news/woman-hit-and-killed-bus-while-ch…
    https://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/man-32-dies-after-bein…
    https://www.news.com.au/national/man-changing-tyre-killed-by…
    https://www.smh.com.au/national/nsw/man-dies-while-changing-…
    https://www.heraldsun.com.au/news/victoria/police-car-hits-w…

  • backpaqer on 14/11/2018 - 10:26

    MacGuyver

  • TheOtherLeft on 14/11/2018 - 10:45
    +1

    In my uni days I had a flat tyre. All I did for two weeks was reinflate the flat tyre from dead flat every morning and afternoon with my plugin 12v air compressor from SCA. Being busy (and poor) I didn't get around to going to the servo to get the tyre fixed. I had no problem driving around as it took around 8hrs for the tyre to deflate.

    All modern tubeless tyres have a layer of softer rubber on the inside which helps seal a puncture to an extent.

    Having done a lot of 4WDing in the past I now keep a small air compressor and tyre plug kit in the boot. I've seen a hole plugged with three plugs still keep the air in. This was on a mud terrain tyre which is a lot stronger then road bias tyres.

    When you go the servo all they do is use the same type of tyre plug to fix you tyre.

    • macrocephalic on 15/11/2018 - 12:42

      I've known plenty of people do track days on tyres repaired with rope style plugs. If they are done properly then they are fine.

  • dpark88 on 14/11/2018 - 10:46
    +1

    Hi OP,

    If you're set on powered tools, you need an impact WRENCH (1/2 inch), not an impact DRIVER like you've linked for the Ryobi one. A driver simply won't deliver enough torque

    If you're set on Ryobi, you need this one: https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-one-18v-3-speed-impact-wre…

    As others have mentioned, it's overkill if you only want to change a flat tyre, which I imagine wouldn't be often.

    This is what you need if you already have a jack:

    Do not use the torque wrench to undo lugs/bolts as this could throw off it's calibration. Torquing to spec is arguably the most important thing. Over torquing can stretch the lugs/bolts and damage the wheel hub. Under torquing could result in the wheel coming loose and flying off as you drive.

  • saltypete on 14/11/2018 - 11:12
    +1

    If I were to add extras for roadside Tyre change, my first buy would be a safety vest, some triangles and a signal torch. May prevent some d##kwit smearing you along the side of you car if you need to change drivers side.
    Also once you change the wheel, re-tighten after a few ks will make sure that nuts are OK.
    If you are desperate to get am impact wrench for wheel change, the compressor may be useful for inflating your new friend…..

  • GaryQ on 14/11/2018 - 12:03
    +1

    Carry a piece of wood to put under the jack when you're on unstable ground

  • theya on 14/11/2018 - 13:14

    The best way to make sure you can undo your tyres in an emergency is to make sure they aren't put on too tight. So I would recommend a torque wrench (doesn't have to be great. Aldi has/had a cheap one recently) and so long as you torque it to the correct tightness (my car says 80 lb.ft) it should come off by hand without needing an impact wrench.
    You don't want to use an impact wrench to tighten them as you will most definitely over tighten them.

    As for inflating the tyre. I have my own (big) compressor at home but I have managed just fine over the past several years just using the inflators at service stations. Still use it sometimes because it's less hassle.

    One thing you may benefit from is if you have a crappy scissor jack that is hard to turn and or gets stuck is to replace if for a new better one or to upgrade to a hydraulic jack. I you do though you need you make sure that the jack you buy has enough min clearance (as low as your car gets incl flat tyre) and can lift the car high enough to get the tyre off and put on a fully inflated tyre

  • lost in transit on 14/11/2018 - 13:55
    +1

    If you have a compressor you'd be mad not to include plugs for screws and nails etc,there brilliant…..

  • BewareOfThe Dog on 14/11/2018 - 14:34

    Keep an eye on Amazon for the Ryobi skin.;-)

  • Kamsi on 14/11/2018 - 20:03

    I told my in-laws to bring back a pressure air inflator for me, and they bought me something like this this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Tire-Inflator-with-High-Accurat…

  • [Deactivated] on 14/11/2018 - 20:28

    I use one of these on my 4WD. runs of the battery. About $100.

    https://www.autobarn.com.au/kci-ezy-wrench-12-volt-1-2-drive…

  • itsdougie on 14/11/2018 - 20:52

    torque wrench and make sure you dont over torque your bolts so its easier to take off in the event of a flat. Also put some anti seize on the thread

  • zeomega on 14/11/2018 - 21:46
    +1

    Very easy to strip/cross your threads if you don't know what you're doing with a impact wrench.

    Safer to stay with manual. Get a long breaker bar to keep in your car and you'll undo the nuts easily. Cheap $20 aldi torque wrench to tighen them.

  • ozzpete on 14/11/2018 - 22:57

    In my car, I have trolley jack, and an oldschool sidchrome wheel brace that fits most vehicles. Both were about $5 at markets. Trolley jack makes changing tyre much easier and faster IMO.
    I also keep a screw driver and small shifting spanner. And also a torch , very important in case have to do any work on car at night. A pair of jumper leads in each vehicle also (again, 2nd pair was either $2 or $5 at markets 2nd hand).

  • Plug on 14/11/2018 - 22:57
    +1

    Get a wheel brace like this one https://www.anacondastores.com/camping-hiking/4wd/orcon-expe… as an impact driver from AEG, Makita etc won't do the job. Also carry a #2 crosshead and a flatblade screwdrivers, a pair of needle pointed pliers, a small Cree torch (and keep it charged), a spanner that fits the terminals of your battery, a pair of jump leads, a small knife and some cloth duck tape.

  • relentless on 15/11/2018 - 01:03

    Good advice here, I will be looking for a wheel brace too.

    These are also good to have.

  • Wayne7497 on 15/11/2018 - 11:12

    Get a whip n well trained missus..

  • RolandWaites on 15/11/2018 - 12:20

    Save money on the air pump. Do it for free at a petrol station - you won't use the air pump enough to justify $75. Make sure you do it every six months to ensure the spare is pumped.

    See if you can pick up a decent size torque wrench with the correct size socket. I picked mine up for $20 on sale at SCA about a year ago. Much, much easier than trying to use the tools that come with your car. Just make sure you don't over-torque the nut (a simple Google will solve that).

    Stock car jacks are bastards for tiring yourself out. They're awkward and make you work much harder than you need to. At one of SCA's many, many sales you can pick a small air jack up for less than $60. That'll change your life when it comes to jacking a car up.

    That's what I'd suggest for a spare tyre issue. Three pretty simple steps that'll make your next road issue a whole lot less tiring.

  • Dio on 15/11/2018 - 12:54

    I bought a cigarette lighter attachment 12v air compressor of $45 (a heavy duty one) it has been 6 years never had issues. Since we have radial tire these days you can fill air from dead flat to good in few minutes and will have it for hours unless you miss a big chunk of the tire.
    Cordless tools are good. But you have to keep them charged as batteries self discharge after few months. So, when you want it you will see a flat battery. To break nuts keep a long pipe about 25mm dia, that will slide in to the wheel wrench.
    Hope that helps the OZ bargain way.

  • SupeNintendoChalmers on 15/11/2018 - 13:27

    Hydraulic jack and torque wrench.

    A set of high quality Phillips and flat head screwdrivers

    One quality shifter (i know I know, but it's better than carry a whole set of wrenches)

    Cheapie phone thats periodically charged

  • bigticket on 15/11/2018 - 13:52
    -2

    I can't believe you guys are recommending a torque wrench for wheel nuts.
    To remove: use the tyre iron that came with the vehicle and have on hand a steel tube 600mm or longer that fits over the tyre iron, giving you the added leverage to remove the most stubborn nuts.
    To tighten: use the tyre iron without the pipe extension. Find yourself a knowledgeable mate to show you how, and if need be use your foot.

    • RolandWaites on 15/11/2018 - 17:07

      There's nothing wrong with using a torque wrench though, and they're generally less flimsy than the tyre iron.

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