• out of stock

Panasonic Eneloop AA Rechargeable NiMH Batteries 1900mAh 4x/8x 4th Gen Made in Japan $17.89/ $31.99 Delivered @Batterymates eBay


Both still showing in stock for me.

No code required. Cheaper than last deal even without code.
Apparently 1900mah - 2000mah capacity is just a maximum rated capacity, and both will have similar capacity.

4 Pack $17.89: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4x-Panasonic-Eneloop-AA-Recharge...

8 Pack $31.99: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8x-Panasonic-Eneloop-AA-Recharge...

Here is a link to my post with my bad experience with "Made in China" duds: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/441634
I have decided to remove my post, as it is unfair to judge a products reputation based on a single bad experience.

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closed Comments

  • Any recommendations on a charger for these batteries?

      • smart charger > dumb charger

          • @thebadmachine: regardless of how slow a dumb charger charges , your eneloops still gets cooked when overcharged as you won't know whether your eneloops need that full 16 hours charge unless you run your eneloops till dead empty every single time before charging which is of no good still

            smart charger stops charging as soon as battery is fully charged

            • @phunkydude: Edit: ok I was wrong, apparently: "So charging NiMH's when they deplete to 1.1V is better than waiting until they get to 1.0V."

              • @thebadmachine: NiMH don't have memory effect

                NiMH don't like being drained empty

                • @phunkydude: @Margesimpson All batteries suffer memory effect to a degree!

                  • @Bunsen: Yeah but it seems reducing NiMH battery charge to below a certain voltage (capacity) can also stress the battery.

                    • @thebadmachine: Same same with other types like NiCD, even lead/acid dont like to be fully flattened, deep cycle is the only type that will handle being fully dis-charged then recharged…

                      Voltage has no relevance to capacity (capacity = current)

                      • @Bunsen: But as capacity depletes to certain level, so does voltage. So high powered devices can refuse to turn on although there is still some charge left in battery.

                      • @Bunsen: Even deep cycle batteries don't like being fully discharged - 50% is the best mark to aim for. Similar principal for lithium instead it's 80% discharge.

                        For example, you shouldn't be discharging a 100AH battery to lower than the 50AH mark if you want the battery to have a overall long life.

                        Taking a deep cycle battery from its float voltage of ~13.5v down past its 50% mark (12v) and right down to ~10.5v (dead flat) will shorten the overall life span from thousands of cycles to only hundreds of cycles.

                        It's sorta like why many people set a UPS to shutdown the equipment that is attached at the ~75% remaining mark instead of completely draining their batteries.

                        • @Goldfire: AGM will handle 80% discharge without side effects…


                          As for the UPS reference, data is the most important aspect, hence why IT set them this way, that’s just paranoia as UPS’s are seldom used & could be 2-3, or even more, years old before being used for their purpose…

                          • @Bunsen:

                            AGM will handle 80% discharge without side effects…

                            Got an AGM put in the car for the first & most recent battery change. Being a stop-start equipped vehicle I am happy to hear this.

                          • @Bunsen: Did you read the link you provided?

                            The most practical number to use is 50% DOD on a regular basis. This does NOT mean you cannot go to 80% once in a while. It’s just that when designing a system when you have some idea of the loads, you should figure on an average DOD of around 50% for the best storage vs cost factor.

                            Although these can be cycled down to 20% charge, the best lifespan vs cost method is to keep the average cycle at about 50% discharge.

                            Your original message was

                            deep cycle is the only type that will handle being fully dis-charged then recharge

                            A full discharge would be ~10.5v, this will greatly reduce the battery's life. I never said you cannot do it, I'm saying it's not advisable to do it. It's a waste of the overall lifespan of the battery, that's even referenced in the link you provided.

                            These levels are basically common knowledge if you're into batteries.

                            As for the UPS reference, it isn't about paranoia, there are two main reasons:

                            1) Stated above about discharge for obvious reasons
                            2) For example, you let the UPS discharge to ~10% then have the server turn off. After power has returned and the UPS has started back up, you generally don't want a server to come back on with a small charge remaining. If power were lost again shortly afterwards, it wouldn't make it through a clean shutdown.

                            Suit yourself on how you use your batteries if you're going for maximum runtime and don't care about the lifespan. But as mentioned, I wouldn't be advising people to drain them fully all the time.

                            • @Goldfire: I was talking once off, not on a regular basis re the deep cycle AGM…

                              Fair point on the UPS part.

                              Anyway, i think this discussion has covered what most ppl need to know..

                              All good..

                            • @Goldfire: I am thinking about human batteries. Like in the matrix. You do not want to lose more than 50% of your blood otherwise it will greatly affect your capacity and ability to hold a charge.

                • @phunkydude: I've requested my earlier comments for removal due to 'false information'.
                  Yeah have just gotten used to the typical older battery type, which when you discharge only half-way, then charge. You end up with only half capacity after.

                • @phunkydude:

                  NiMH don't like being drained empty

                  Actually, NiMH batteries are fine with being empty. All of the non-LSD NiMH batteries are supplied flat, and have been flat for years while sitting on the shelf in stores.

                  However many chargers can't detect a fully-flat battery, which is why many people recommend not to run them flat.

                  The other reason not to run them flat is because most devices take more than one battery. Batteries don't all have exactly the same capacity, so when you are using them, there will be one battery in your device that goes flat a little before the other batteries. If you continue using the device, the remaining batteries are pushing current through the flat battery in the direction that reverse-charges the flat battery, this is definitely bad for that battery. But if your device only takes a single battery (like some torches and some remote controls), there is no harm in running the battery completely flat.

                  • @Russ: We really need an Ozbargain sticky on batteries. Also it would be more correct if you said "cell" for the single "battery", as a battery is a multiple cells

                    • @Jackson: Yup, having all the conflicting opinions in one place would be really useful.

                    • @Jackson:

                      a battery is a multiple cells

                      That was correct in my high-school physics books from long ago, but current dictionaries classify a battery as one or more cells. So an AA cell, being a single electrochemical cell, can correctly be called a battery. I just checked an AA eneloop, on the side it says "Ready to use rechargeable battery". The vernacular use of "battery" has changed.

                      I agree with your statement about a sticky on batteries, and I would like one on chargers too. For the charger sticky, the main article would be general information like the difference between smart and dumb chargers, how fast NiMh batteries should be charged, what -dV/dT means, what extra features chargers sometimes have, and maybe where and when people should consider using rechargeable batteries. Also it should have a template for describing the features of a charger, and people can list chargers they have experience with in the comments (using the above template as a guide).

                      I have thought about writing a sticky about chargers before, I reckon I could get 80% of the article by just doing cut-and-paste from my previous comments on chargers.

    • liitokala


      • I use Nite-core D4 personally, but had a Eneloop leak on its first charge, must have been the quality of the batteries…

    • Here is a question/answer I found on Amazon.

      "It's the quality of your charger. Good chargers will analyze each cell individually, monitor the individual cell throughout charging and keep the batteries from overheating which can ruin rechargeables. Your charger analyzes two batteries and charges them together. I doubt your charger monitors the batteries (in pairs for yours) when charging them. If you are serious about using rechargeables you will want a good charger it will save you money in ruined batteries that would have lasted years more with a top charger. I can attest to the quality, I have replaced every battery in my home, I have nearly 100 aa and aaa batteries some I have had for years and havent lost a battery. I have a la crosse bc-1000. I don't make money recommending anything I do it for my reputation on amazon and helping people. Get a good charger I can guarantee you will save money in the long run. You can get any of the la crosse bc series I believe they are basically the same except for quick charging options which I don't even use, just pop them in and go and charged in about 3 hours. The la crosse bc-700 is $40 and the bc-1000 $59, you will save money nit ruining your eneloop batteries. I have about 15aa and 15aaa charger and ready to use in standby."

    • Depends on your budget …
      I have a Maha (now Powerex) MH-C808M … expensive but can charge anything (8 AA / AAA / C / D NiMH or NiCD Batteries).
      Brilliant charger. Ordered through Amazon and purchased an Aussie figure 8 cable.
      Using for many years. No issues charging my Eneloop or Laddas. Also no issue charging my Tenergy Centura C and D rechargeable batteries.
      Think the Laddas are a better deal, esp with family discount bringing 4 of each (AA or AAA) to $7.95. Out of my eneloops I've had a couple of AAA's die, so no guarantees of the number of charges, still much better than no name brands with BS energy ratings.
      Even tried the Turnigy batteries (from Hobbyking) and don't rate them.

      • Love my Maha! Got it back in the day when I dipped into RC cars and needed a whole load of batteries for the controllers. Now I just have a whole load of batteries for the kids stuff

      • I agree I just cant see this as a deal when laddas and Active Energy (Aldi) batteries are so cheap. Also picked up 4 AAA LSD Vartas from EB games the other day for $4 but couldn't post as it was the last one. Wont be buying any more eneloops at this rate but they have served me well in the past.

    • I use the La Crosse BC-700.
      It's been discontinued but can still buy online.



      About $50.

      Can charge AA or AAA and can charge or discharge batteries as needed.

      Can slow charge at 200 mAh to help prolong battery life.

      • Can slow charge at 200 mAh to help prolong battery life.

        I am interested in this.

      • I've got the BC-900. Old too, but still works like a charm. Looks identical. The only difference seems to be an additional 1000 ma setting (the batteries seem to get as hot as lava on that setting though lol). Got mine "free" with a second hand camera deal :D

    • +2 votes

      There is quite a bit of misinformation in this thread.

      For the maximum number of charge cycles, you want a smart charger that will charge a completely flat battery to full in 2-4 hours, and make sure the charger doesn't require the batteries to be charged in pairs.

      This website does excellent technical reviews of chargers: https://lygte-info.dk/info/indexBatteriesAndChargers%20UK.ht...

      You don't need to be technical to understand the reviews, they are easy to understand. The comments are what you want, some reviews say "cut off too early, didn't fully charge the battery" or "took a long time to detect a fully-charged battery".

      The reason for 2-4 hours charge time is because faster chargers are pushing too much energy into the battery too quickly, which will overheat the battery, causing permanent damage. Too slow, and the -dV/dt effect (how the charger knows when to stop charging) becomes too small, and it's unlikely the charger will detect it, resulting in overcharge which also permanently damages your battery.

      There is a single exception to the 2-4 hours rule: Nitecore chargers have a unique charging system, they share one charging channel between two batteries, which means they take twice as long but still correctly detect full charge. But I don't recommend them because an 8-hour charge is inconvenient when compared to a 4-hour charge.

      I have several battery chargers, each has it's own strengths and weaknesses. For a cheap and simple charger, the Ikea LADDA charger is good, but don't buy any of the other chargers Ikea sells, they are crap.

      For a full-featured charger I recommend the Liitokala Lii-500 charger, it has a nice display and can charge lithium-ion batteries too. But make sure the one you buy has a power supply, some sellers don't include the power supply.

      If you do choose the Lii-500, you will have to manually select the charging current for each battery. 1000mA is best for 1900-2600mAh AA batteries, 300mA is best for AAA batteries.

  • +19 votes

    Ikea Rebadged Eneloop LSD batteries are less than half this price

    Are these worth the price gap?

    • Depends if you want the extra 1/5th in capacity (1900mah vs 2450mah), for drastically reduced cycles (500 cycles for LADDA, 2100 cycles for these Eneloops)

      • +19 votes

        for me the extra cycles (which are not proven) are not worth it. I charge the batteries less than once a week, probably once a month.

        At once a week, 500 cycles is 10 years……

        I would rather have the $8/4pack in my pocket now than try to extract that value out of these after 10 years.

        • Yes of course the capacity and cycles are max rated values, but 500 vs 2100 is quite a dramatic difference.
          (and it seems that more and more of these Japan made batteries are going to become Made in China.)
          These are Limited edition. And there may be a day in the future when you cant get the genuine Made in Japan product Eneloop is known for.

          • @thebadmachine: China is the equal of Japan or anywhere else for that matter in high quality manufacturing now. They lead the world in scientific output.

            • @Diji1: Yes I don't doubt that, they have come a long way in a short amount of time. But I am just basing my comments on my own recent personal experience, and other peoples comments on the quality control of the Made in China batteries.
              I'm not saying every battery is a failure, but there seem to be many duds people are reporting on.

            • +10 votes

              @Diji1: Are you ignoring that China manufactures perhaps 80% of the landfill quality products pumping into world markets.
              Your comment is rose tinted bull IMHO.
              You can't rely on anything out of China to be equal to Japans' product quality, I consistently find.

              • @DisabledUser264934: I heard a recent statement about the most productive country in the world. It was based on a complicated algorithm which included things such as how much energy is put in and how much marginal return is gained, then fed through all these other equations like the the efficiency of each and every average joe/joanna. Some kind of smart-arse created it. Anyway it was Japan.

              • @DisabledUser264934: Given the same company plant using the same QA and process, China is just as good as Japan.

                The shoddy shit is from no name brands seeking to make a quick buck. Chinese take the 'you get what you pay for' mantra to the very extreme.

          • @thebadmachine: @margejsimpson

            Yes of course the capacity and cycles are max rated values, but 500 vs 2100 is quite a dramatic difference.

            Sure, but realistically who is charging them so frequently that they aren't getting years and years out of 500 charges? If you're really concerned you can buy another pack and while that still only gets you 1000 charges, you'll have change left over and can do a full charge cycle every day for 3 years (which almost no one will require). Believe 500 cycles is close to what the older Eneloop Pros (and maybe current) were marketed at.

            These are Limited edition. And there may be a day in the future when you cant get the genuine Made in Japan product Eneloop is known for.

            That might happen but the alternatives are likely close enough. As noted elsewhere the battery tests for Eneloop vs a few other brands are so close that the general consensus is they're probably just rebadged anyway so long as they are coming from Japan. Believe this generally includes Laada but also Amazon Basics as well as Apples back when they sold AA batteries. I think it's been a long time since Eneloops really outshone the alternative and now days there's far more economical options for what is likely rebadged previous gen models of the Eneloop.

            • @Smigit: Yeah I agree with everything you said. Yes Eneloop pros are marketed at 500 cycles.
              I use very few things that require conventional batteries. Old arlo cameras batteries, and 4 AA’s, 2 AAA’s. That’s all I need. (Basically 8 AA, 4 AAA on rotation)
              I just prefer to get the most cycles and hopefully not think about buying them again.

      • 2100 cycles for the Eneloops, NOT the Eneloop Pros which the LADDA is suppose to be near identical to. Eneloop Pro also has 500 cycles.

    • They may be from the same factory, but they are different batteries. Unless you think two things with different specifications are somehow the same.

      • If you are referring to the Capacity of the LADDA’s, the stated capacity is just a maximum rating. And can be adjusted for marketing reasons (new Eneloop standards claim 2000mah while older gen 1900mah, both show identical capacity in tests). Thorough tests have shown LADDA’s (claimed 2450mah) and Eneloop Pro’s(claimed 2550mah) having identical capacity (roughly 2500 mah) while they both claim 500 cycles.

        • Actually it is a minimum rating, not maximum. They could be identical, but one gurantees 500 cycles and the other 2400.

          • @skyva: In tests with capacity, they were always slightly under the rated capacity. So I think it is a maximum figure, at least for the capacity.

            • @thebadmachine: Depends on which batteries you mean. Most eneloops state it as a minimum… i.e. HR-3UTGB 1.2V Min 1,900mAh for a set that were 'Made in Japan' when they were still Sanyo ;)

              • @pfeerick: Yes 1900mah capacity is for the standard Eneloops.
                It may be minimum or maximum rating I don’t know.
                Above I mentioned comparing the Eneloop Pro’s to the IKEA LADDA’s (Both rated ~2500mah).

                I failed to correctly read skyva’s comment. Eneloop Pro and LADDA are both rated at 500 cycles. Only standard Eneloop is rated at 2100 cycles.

  • A big 1+ for op!

    Since Dickies went bust it's been almost impossible to score genuine Eneloop's at a decent price.

  • OP are you sure your Eneloop is genuine? I bought more than 50 eneloops from orginal Dicksmith, most are made in china. 3yrs now still pumping energy fine no leaking, I don't feel any different between the made.

    • I'm sure they are genuine, have Panasonic Aus/NZ info on the back. Searched product code, its being sold all over the place.
      Maybe I just got a dud. I have only used 2 of the 4, and one of them leaked while recharging for the first time ever with smart charger.

      I have read many more reviews of Made in China failures, particularly Amazon Basics grey (which have been proven to be rebadged standard Eneloops).
      I initially thought that the Made in China would only apply to the rebadged batteries, and was recently proven wrong with genuine Eneloops being Made in China.
      Will let you know if anymore fail, but I have already filed a complaint for return. Probably gonna give them all back I'll try these Made in Japan ones out.

  • +3 votes

    I miss the days of dse when these were on special all the time lol

  • I think I might actually have enough Eneloops (I know, I know), but I kinda really want these because I haven't got this colour set…

    Brain, why you do this?

    • I did my best by not including "Botanical Series Edition" in the title.
      So you can do your best by only getting what you need and will use.

    • I feel ya on this. If they were cheaper(like dse discount prices), I would have pulled the trigger just to get another colour set.

  • The Energizer Maxi batteries at Woolies are also made in Japan upon inspecting it hands on, says it at the rear of packaging, wonder how those stack up with these ones, and the charger that comes with it, retails for about $30.

    • Interesting, first time I heard that, although "Made in Japan" does not guarantee Voodoo witch craft.
      There are some thorough rechargeable battery comparisons on YouTube. Give them a search.

    • +2 votes

      The maxi charger is a dumb charger, it takes 10 hours to charge the batteries.

      It's very rare for an Energizer or Duracell brand charger to be a smart charger. They sell batteries, so they want the charger to damage the batteries, so you will only get 20-50 charges out of the batteries before they die.

      Of all the quality battery chargers, few are made by companies that primarily sell batteries. Panasonic/Sanyo was the only exception, but even there, most of the chargers they sell are still dumb chargers.

  • The 8 pack is out of stock.

  • How about Varta Rechargeable batteries

    Seems quite cheap.

  • I've moved on to Ladda.

  • Back in stock.

  • You can just get the standard version Made in Japan from Catch
    https://www.catch.com.au/product/panasonic-eneloop-rechargea... = $29.99
    https://www.catch.com.au/product/panasonic-eneloop-rechargea... = $11.99
    The 4 set seems to be the cheapest option; i.e 4pack x2 = $23.98

  • Ok, so here's my $0.02 worth in regards to rechargable batteries:
    1. Batteries like…regular maintenance.
    2. Batteries don't like…heat.
    So, in essence, don't leave your batteries sitting around for too long & don't charge them faster than necessary…other than that, u should be good!

    • How about keeping conventional battery use to a minimum as they are outdated & have significant losses every time you use one. Putting energy into something so tiny, and using the energy should only be necessary for a compact device.
      These days many products come with their own built-in batteries, so I would think AA should be in less demand.
      The items we devices them for are remotes, torches and other small devices.
      So 8 AA’s and 4 AAA’S in rotation are enough.

      • Nah, they're just batteries. If they don't perform, just replace them…it's easier that way.

  • Are these better quality than Energizer?

  • I have a Logitech rechargable keyboard.
    They have 2450mmh batteries that I believe are low as the lights don't light.

    I was looking at IKEA LADA
    Will these work or not big enough capacity?