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Masterplug 20m 10A 4 Socket Extension Lead Reel $36.50 (Was $69.90) @ Bunnings

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Masterplug 20m 10A 4 Socket Extension Lead Reel $36.50 (Was $69.90) @ Bunnings
Go to Deal
Being Askhole on 14/09/2019 - 13:19 bunnings.com.au (5659 clicks)

Good Price. Enjoy :)

Masterplug offers a lightweight and sturdy reel, this portable solution delivers for most garden and home improvement situations. It has been designed and engineered for longevity. The plastic drum provides reliable protection when in use, transported or stored. Using 20m 1.0mm highly visible Heavy Duty green cable, this range of extension reels provides 4 x 125V 10amp sockets, power switch and has a built-it overload and reset button for extra safety.

4 Sockets
20m Heavy Duty Cable with SAA plug
Thermal cutout
Over current protector
On/Off switch

Thanks to Pricehipster

Home & Garden

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closed Comments

  • bm on 14/09/2019 - 13:42

    Tomorrow:

    20m 10A 4 Socket Extension Lead Reel $36.90 @ ALDI

    • DSOTM on 14/09/2019 - 15:15

      Can't seem to find that on Aldi's site.

    • IVI on 15/09/2019 - 11:08

      4 x 125 V sockets is WRONG;
      we still use 240 V AC in AU

      Total Current (in Amp's): 10 A

      So, None of the sockets can
      give over 10 A (We "never"
      need over 10 A, w/ devices)

  • skeptik on 14/09/2019 - 14:23
    +1

    They skimped on the volts: "provides 4 x 125V 10amp sockets". No deal!

    • djlee on 14/09/2019 - 14:28
      +3

      Oh how many volts do I need?

    • whooah1979 on 14/09/2019 - 15:07
      -5

      provides 4 x 125V 10amp sockets

      It's probably why they are on sale. Maximum ~1250W per socket.

      • spaceflight on 14/09/2019 - 15:21
        +2

        You can't have 125v because we use 230v power.
        125v is a mistake

        • whooah1979 on 14/09/2019 - 15:25
          -5

          It's not the matter of Volt, but rather the AWG.

          • spaceflight on 14/09/2019 - 15:38
            +1

            @whooah1979: The cable can carry 10a. It will have an AWG appropriate for that.

            • Cartman2530 on 15/09/2019 - 15:20

              @spaceflight: Exactly, hopefully the insulation is good for 240vac. Someone want to buy one and test it?

              • spaceflight on 15/09/2019 - 15:26

                @Cartman2530: The insulation is good for 10a. Nobody needs to buy one to test it.

                • Cartman2530 on 15/09/2019 - 15:28
                  -1

                  @spaceflight: ummmm insulation thickness is determined by voltage, not current, thats pretty basic stuff to understand. Have you bought one and tested it???

                  • spaceflight on 15/09/2019 - 16:02
                    +2

                    @Cartman2530:

                    Have you bought one and tested it???

                    I don't need to buy one to test it because I'm not stupid and understand that it is a mistake on the website.

                    Australia doesn't use 125 v and selling a 125v 10a rated cable would get Bunnings in a lot of trouble.

                  • 4KGrubby on 15/09/2019 - 23:51
                    +1

                    @Cartman2530:

                    ummmm insulation thickness is determined by voltage, not current, thats pretty basic stuff to understand. Have you bought one and tested it???

                    I don’t mean to start an argument, but I believe you should review your statement.
                    I think you may have meant the wire thickness, not insulation thickness? The thickness of the insulation is not nearly as important as the material of insulation. For example, toilet paper used as insulation, 100mm thick VS 10mm thick porcelain.
                    And if you were mistaken and meant the wire thickness, then correct me if I’m wrong, but I’ve always believed it is indeed determined by the current and not voltage like you have stated.
                    For example, if the voltage determined the thickness of cable and not current, then our high voltage powerlines (11kV/66kV or thereabouts) would have the diameter of a hula hoop. 🤔

                    • Cartman2530 on 16/09/2019 - 14:56
                      -1

                      @4KGrubby: No, i was talking about insulation requirements for 125V versus 240V and whether the cable itself is rated for that voltage. different voltages require different thicknesses. Insulation rated for 125V is certainly not suitable for 240V work.

                      but since no one has one to check for us its all speculation as to whether its suitable for our 240v power or not. it could simply be a typo but i would be checking the cable itself and seeing if there is a insulation rating on it. its marked on every mains cable for compliance, but most people have no idea about that or mains power in general.

      • spaceflight on 14/09/2019 - 15:34
        +6

        It isn't a maximum of 1250W per socket.

        You have used 125v*10a = 1250w
        But that is a mistake on the website because we don't use 125v in Australia.

        Your statement means that the cable can carry 5000w which it can't. Neither can the 10a power point it is connected to.

        The cable has a maximum rating of 10a.

        The maximum output over all 4 outlets is 2400w (10a), it is not per outlet.
        If you have 4 things plugged in the maximum each can use is 600w.

        It is the same as a power board.

        • whooah1979 on 14/09/2019 - 15:44

          A 4.2mm wire should be enough to accommodate 4 * 1250W.

          • spaceflight on 14/09/2019 - 16:47

            @whooah1979: So?
            And a 4mm² flexible cable is rated to carry 25a.

            This is a 10a cable, not a 25a one.

            It is for a 10a power point and circuit not a 25a one.

            It is not designed for 4 * 1250W (20a). That does not mean it is a poor quality cable.

        • Public21 on 14/09/2019 - 16:48
          +3

          @spaceflight - Yes it says clearly on the reel that it is 10amps… all up.

          The other downside of these reels is that you have to roll the full 20 metres out if you are putting anything but a tiny load through it. (states that too). I'm not an electronics expert but gather if you don't it can turn into a heat generating device.

          • spaceflight on 14/09/2019 - 16:55
            +1

            @Public21:

            Yes it says clearly on the reel that it is 10amps… all up.

            I know. That's what I have said.

            The other downside of these reels is that you have to roll the full 20 metres

            That it true.
            If you have 4 layers of cable then it can only carry 40% of the rated load.
            3 layers is about 50%
            2 layers is about 60%
            1 layer is about 75%

            • IVI on 15/09/2019 - 11:12

              @spaceflight: Nu?

              So, what happens if
              you Don't Unroll it?

              Surely, low current
              applications wouldn't
              cause issues unrolled

              • spaceflight on 15/09/2019 - 11:25

                @IVI:

                So, what happens if you
                Don't Unroll it?

                It can get hot, melt, catch fire.
                Heat also causes more resistance which will give you a further voltage drop and then a higher current draw which makes more heat

                Surely, low current
                applications wouldn't
                cause issues unrolled

                Low current wouldn't.
                If you have 4 layers of cable then it can carry 40% of the rated load which is 4 amps.

                I don't know how many layers this has when rolled up.

                • raymosaurus on 17/09/2019 - 02:17

                  @spaceflight:

                  It can get hot, melt, catch fire.

                  Not true. I own this cable reel, and I have brewed beer in my 40L urn with the reel only 1/4 unrolled. The urn draws about 9 amps constantly, 2,160 watts, and the reel gets a little warm to the touch but no where near hot enough to be a fire risk.

        • Croshema on 15/09/2019 - 11:31

          You have used 125v*10a = 1250w

          If someone was a real pain in the ass annoyance he or she would mention that incorrect units have been used.

          125V*10A = 1250VA, as no power factor has been stated we have only calculate apparent power (VA) not active power, Watts.

          125V* 10A* cos φ(1) = 1250W maximum, maximum as power factor (cos φ) will often be less than 1.

          Regardless of being 230 or 240V the max rating of concern is 10 Amps, if you are at the end of the line and you have voltage sag to say 220V then you cannot supply 2400W, only 2200W as it would take 2400w/(220v*Cos φ) = 10.9Amps to supply 2400W at 220V.

          I don't mean to disagree with your statement, just add to the discourse.

    • tryagain on 14/09/2019 - 15:13
      +2

      My guess is just a carryover/typo from a US version. It says elsewhere that it's 240v

  • djlee on 14/09/2019 - 14:24
    +3

    Thanks. Bought something that I will actually use.

    • [Deactivated] on 14/09/2019 - 18:17
      +18

      You must be new here.

    • Naigrabzo on 15/09/2019 - 13:17
      +1

      Blasphemy! :)

  • krisspy on 14/09/2019 - 15:09

    Wait what? Aren't we running on 240v here?

    • ol mate on 14/09/2019 - 15:19
      +2

      Nope. We run 230v in Australia (officially)

      • spaceflight on 14/09/2019 - 15:26
        +1

        It isn't official, it is the nominal voltage.

        And it doesn't apply to WA and QLD as they are still using 240v.
        QLD is moving to 230v

        • Elyxar on 15/09/2019 - 08:24
          +1

          Does my bill go down when they drop the volts to 230?

          • spaceflight on 15/09/2019 - 10:10

            @Elyxar: Maybe.

            If you are currently getting 240v you are getting 240 volts (+/-6%) 254 V to 225 V

            Most of Australia and appliances are designed to operate on 230 volts with an allowable (+10/-6%) and a preferred operating range of +6% to –2%. (244 V to 225 V).

            So if your appliance is modern and designed for 230 V but you are getting power on the high side of 240 V you are getting a higher voltage than the appliance preferred operating voltage (above 244 V)

            This means it isn't going to operate as efficiently so will use more power than is needed.

          • IVI on 15/09/2019 - 11:14

            @Elyxar: It should… after all:

            You pay for KW-Hrs

            KW = V x A

            So, cutting V's reduces KW's

            • Croshema on 15/09/2019 - 11:46
              +2

              @IVI:

              You pay for KW-Hrs

              KW = V x A

              kW = V * A * cos φ / 1000

              It depends what appliance.

              Many electrical devices will be powered from switch mode power supplies, that will consume/supply pretty much the same amount of power over the range of volts we are talking about.

              If your mains supply drops 10% in voltage, then your computers, chargers, battery dyson, tv, sound system, blue ray player, streaming box, (non dimmable) led lights and the like will draw 10% more current to continue to supply their internal systems at the correct voltage and power, so no, no savings due to reduced voltage.

              W = V * A * cos φ, but as the Watt load needed is fixed for many devices (like above), the Watts will stay the same while Amps go up and down in response to supply line voltages, in opposite and equal proportions.

              Simple devices like an oven, space heater or toaster will run at less power, but will need to be "on" longer to supply the heat needed, so no saving there either.

              Corded vacuums may consume a little less power, but will you vacuum for longer?

              The garage door opener may use a little less power, but it will be slower, so the overall kWh will be pretty much the same, after all the work down to lift the door will not change to any great extent.

              kWh = Watts * hours/1000, as above the lowered kW figure will be offset by the increased hours figure needed to use the same amount of energy to complete the task, which will often not have changed, i.e boiling 1l of water will still take the same kWh, just it will be less kW and more hours.

              Fans, filament globes, fluro lights, some dimmable leds, will use less power.

            • spaceflight on 15/09/2019 - 12:11

              @IVI: No it shouldn't.
              Read my comment above.

              KW = V x A

              That's wrong

              V X A = Watts

              1,000 W = 1kW

              1,000 W for 1 hour = 1 kWh (this is what you pay for)

              So, cutting V's reduces KW's

              No it doesn't. Again read my post above to where you might save energy from lower voltage.

              Watts are the things that give you what you want.
              You might need 500w to boil a cup of water.
              At 10 V or 500 V you still need 500 W.

              • abb on 16/09/2019 - 11:20

                @spaceflight:

                You might need 500w to boil a cup of water.

                Surely it's energy you need, not power? ;)

                • spaceflight on 16/09/2019 - 19:35

                  @abb: I wasn't going to use joules, that would make it harder to follow.
                  Watts are derived from joules so it's accurate enough ;)

  • Triple J on 14/09/2019 - 15:23
    +2

    Thanks .Ordered one for pick up.

  • WayneOZ on 14/09/2019 - 15:57
    +1

    Got one thx OP. Checked instructions says max load 240~ 10A so no problem with it. BTW it comes with overload protection pretty decent.

  • DSOTM on 14/09/2019 - 16:11
    +1

    Got one. Ta.

  • jfiles on 14/09/2019 - 16:40
    +3

    I wonder if this would be taken into account.

    From the wiring rules

    1. Where a flexible cord is wound on a drum, multiply current-carrying capacity by the appropriate factor, as follows:
      Number of layers: 1 2 3 4
      Derating factor: 0.76 0.58 0.47 0.40
    • IVI on 15/09/2019 - 11:14

      I'm not interested in 'Rules, but Physics…

  • Dazbug on 14/09/2019 - 17:00

    If I'm using it in the house for say vacuuming or in the garage on a portable air pump do I need to roll the entire 20m out or won't matter for something that will take 5-10 minutes work

    • spaceflight on 14/09/2019 - 17:16

      That depends how many amps your vacuum or pump is drawing.

    • jfiles on 14/09/2019 - 18:07
      -1

      Probably be fine not to roll it out for that kind of use, but I definitely would roll most of it out if I was to use the lead with a heater or welder. If the lead becomes warm you have a problem :)

    • InternetExplorer on 14/09/2019 - 18:33
      -1

      It would be fine. These ratings are more for continuous load.

      • spaceflight on 14/09/2019 - 20:28
        +1

        Which a vacuum and pump are.

        • liquid metal on 15/09/2019 - 08:37

          If you own a place that is big enough to require a very long vacuum session, you most likely have a vacuum that isn't a piece of shit and draws 10A

    • pln on 14/09/2019 - 18:50
      +1

      From the looks of it, looks like only two of the power points (yellow) require you to unreel the cable but it could just be bad design & I’m wrong

      • spaceflight on 14/09/2019 - 20:29

        With the text colour and the colour of the 2 plugs I can see how you might think that but it is wrong.

        You need to roll it out depending on the power load.

        If you have 4 layers of cable then it can only carry 40% of the rated load.
        3 layers is about 50%
        2 layers is about 60%
        1 layer is about 75%

    • IVI on 15/09/2019 - 11:16

      Pay a son or daughter a fee to do it for you…

      At least, it's got a cranking-handle.

    • raymosaurus on 17/09/2019 - 02:22

      Not a problem at all. I have used this exact reel to brew beer in my 40L urn that draws nearly 9 amps, or 2160 watts.. with the reel just 1/4 unrolled, it gets warm to the touch but nothing to worry about.

  • AshFon on 14/09/2019 - 21:03

    make sure to un-reel entire cable before using it, otherwise it can cause fire. Especially if you are using it at full capacity.

    • spaceflight on 14/09/2019 - 22:55
      -2

      You need to roll it out depending on the power load.

      If you have 4 layers of cable then it can only carry 40% of the rated load.
      3 layers is about 50%
      2 layers is about 60%
      1 layer is about 75%

    • raymosaurus on 17/09/2019 - 02:24

      Not with this reel. See my comment above.

  • gimme on 14/09/2019 - 22:26
    +16

    Only the ozb crowd would overanalyze an extension cord. Most people would just plug and use it.

    • tee123 on 15/09/2019 - 02:05
      +3

      I love the info on eveey new item purchased. I get a professional opinion on everything.

    • IVI on 15/09/2019 - 11:18
      +1

      If there's a Safety issue,
      it Pays to know the risks.

      It's just: Today's devices
      use far Less Power than an
      electrical garden tool, etc.

      So, Wiring Rules may have
      an Exception (I'd expect)
      to, eg, the unroll rules..?

      • gimme on 15/09/2019 - 11:46
        +1

        I'm all for safety but this type of overkill does my head in. Pretty much any device that's pushed to their limits may have safety implications but seriously this is just an extension chord that people will use it for some incidental stuff every now and again. Noone in their right mind will be running heavy equipment off this thing. If you read the safety instructions on every electrical or other device you buy (mostly legal indemnity) you won't even take it out of the box. Something to be said about common sense.

        • whooah1979 on 15/09/2019 - 12:07

          Connect the coil to a RCD and run it 75% A.

        • snappy1234 on 15/09/2019 - 15:51
          +2

          this is just an extension chord

          Finally Bunnings are selling something
          I can plug my organ into.

        • abb on 17/09/2019 - 09:18

          Noone in their right mind will be running heavy equipment off this thing.

          Yet elsewhere in this thread someone is running a 9A load all day long with it mostly rolled up and ignoring the warning signs…

          https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/483451#comment-7739223

          Something to be said about common sense.

          Yeah, it ain't so common.

          • raymosaurus on 01/10/2019 - 10:45

            @abb: If you're going to reference someone's post, do it accurately. I never said I was running it all day long, and I never have.

  • Ebayee on 15/09/2019 - 17:56

    Saw similar thing at Costco Moorabbin VIC $31.99 ( 25m )

  • Plug on 15/09/2019 - 18:12

    1.0mm cable? No thanks.

    • spaceflight on 15/09/2019 - 20:51
      +2

      That's all that is required for 10a

  • 4KGrubby on 16/09/2019 - 00:20

    Can we stop arguing and trying to find ways that we can use this without unrolling it? Stop being lazy and just use it fully unrolled, every time you use it. It’s got a crank handle, won’t take long to roll it back up. It simple isn’t worth the heat and potential fire risk. If you want to use it for something <10M, buy a 1M/2M/3M/5M/10M extension lead and powerboard.

    Thanks for the deal OP

    • raymosaurus on 17/09/2019 - 02:26
      +1

      Even at full capacity this reel doesn't get hot enough to be a fire concern when used rolled up. I know because I own it and have done it. See my comment above.

      • ssquid on 24/09/2019 - 12:00

        What about the magnetic field it generates? I don't want my prized VHS collection getting wiped.

  • kaleidoscope on 16/09/2019 - 18:45

    Why does it say "Do not operate, unless fully unreeled"?

    • maxplanck on 16/09/2019 - 19:35
      +1

      125V*10A = 1250VA, as no power factor has been stated we have only calculate apparent power (VA) not active power, Watts.

      125V* 10A* cos φ(1) = 1250W maximum, maximum as power factor (cos φ) will often be less than 1.

      Regardless of being 230 or 240V the max rating of concern is 10 Amps, if you are at the end of the line and you have voltage sag to say 220V then you cannot supply 2400W, only 2200W as it would take 2400w/(220v*Cos φ) = 10.9Amps to supply 2400W at 220V.

      EDIT: Picked mine up this arvo, and the drum isnt perfectly aligned with the frame, it's about 5 degrees out. I'm a little bit OCD so that's unsettling. Im going to have a go at it fully wound up anyway. Haven't decided on amperes yet. Might go with five.

      • raymosaurus on 17/09/2019 - 02:28

        It's fine. 5 amps won't warm it up much. I've ran mine 3/4 rolled up at 9amps for over an hour, and it got warm but nowhere near the temps needed to be a fire concern.

      • Croshema on 17/09/2019 - 15:12
        +2

        I hadn't planned to, but did purchase one the weekend gone when I happened to be at bunnings, it's all fairly square and parallel where needed, maybe I got lucky.

        5A should be a safe start, only 25% the heat load of the 10A rating, 7.1A being 50%.

        I'm tempted to put a few devices on it and see where the thermal overload trips.

        Edit, didn't see the above, nice to now you tested 9 Amps.

        • Croshema on 17/09/2019 - 16:31
          -1

          nice to now you tested 9 Amps.

          Embarrassing.

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