This was posted 2 years 8 months 5 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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Castrol Edge 5W-30 5L Engine Oil $35.89 @ Supercheap Auto

660
  • 5W-30
  • API SL/CF
  • ACEA A3/B4
  • Full Synthetic
  • Boosted with Titanium Fluid Strength Technology
  • BMW Longlife ā€“ 01
  • VW 502 00/ 505 00
  • MB Approval 229.3, 229.5

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closed Comments

  • +3

    Showing as $71.88 for me.

    • Mine is showing $35.89 in Victoria

      • +1

        Now working for me after a couple of hours!

  • Works for me

  • +5

    If only $2 again!

    • Waiting this one as well. Unfortunately just bought one last time. Fingers crossed.

  • Pity the 10l is not on sale

  • Iā€™m usually all over this but managed to get 2 Nulon brand for $50 from this deal - https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/492291?utm_source=subscrip...

  • API SL/CF

    Wow, that's a good spec. Anything after SL was just removing Zinc and Phos to protect the catalytic converter.

    A cat is cheaper to replace than an engine, I'll keep my Zinc levels please.

    • +1

      I am so lost now…

      • +1

        Would you like some directions??

        • or instructions maybe? up2u

  • Got the Gulf western 5w-30 from super cheap the other day for $22 https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/492106

    • +1

      Many of us with performance vehicles would prefer SL over SN oils.

      • I will still go with SN over SL plus cheaper in price.

        • +2

          I'm a bit of a novice oil chemist by hobby.

          Can you please explain the benefits of SN that would make you choose it?

      • +1

        Why is this?
        I run SN/CF, ACEA A5/B5 oil in my turbo charged petrol engine as recommended by the OEM, keen to learn more about oils.

        • -1

          Because Vinyl sounds better than CD

        • +4

          There is a LOT to explain, but in the most simple terms;

          When SL came along, it was already 'lower Zinc' and 'Lower Phosphorous' to protect the planet.
          Catch is those 2 ingredients are high friction modifiers, whos job it is to protect your bearings should the oil film fail; and to prevent wear full-time with your rings scraping your bores.

          Every spec after that basically just removed more and more Zinc and Phos until it was almost non existent, replacing it with "Proprietary Magic" that might or might not work.
          Some probably do (Moly, Titanium, etc), but there's no reason you can't have BOTH; and Zinc\Phos is proven.

          The fact is that unless you have an oil issue and break your oil film, the chance of there being a difference is quite low.
          But rings are a constant wear item, and cars that have Boxer engines especially, have extra wear on one side of the bore; so if you plan to keep your car for 20+ years, you'll probably see a difference in compression (even if it's very slight).

          The advantage of SN\SM?
          Lower Zinc means that your PCV system 'poisons' your catalytic converter less.
          But, since I keep cars as long as possibvle, and modify them for my pleasure, I'd prefer to replace a cat a year early, than replace an engine.

          • @MasterScythe: Oh ok, that makes a lot of sense. What about the stated high temperature deposit protection for pistons and better sludge control? They also report not only catalytic converter protection but also turbos.
            There seems to be lots of black (oil) magic with so many of these specs.

            • +1

              @cashie: All of that is down the the percentage of sulfated ash in the oil, along with the TBN.

              This stuff is quite good, penrite 10tenths is better but only when on 30% off sales, the price doesnt justify the means.

              The absolute best is nulon racing, due to the formula using AN oil (alkylated napthalene) base oils which is just black magic perfect oil; but thats even more of a cost.

              I could go on for days but its too much to explain.

  • how can i learn what's good for me car

  • +3

    Needed an oil top up on the weekend when the light came on.
    Shops were closed and all I had was extra virgin oil.

    Was hesitant to use it but glad I did.

    Car feel younger and runs smoother.
    Should keep me going until next month when its due for a service.

    • I'm assuming this is jesting;
      Funny thing is, it actually would work for a short period until the oil burns.

      Also if the 'dummy light' came on, you've already done damage. 10psi (2psi if you're in a subaru) is already bearing rubbing territory.

  • Hi guys would this be just as good as genuine Bmw oil for a 3 series (f30)? This is so cheap.

    • It should be as it meets BMW's LL01 specification. Personally, I would use 5w-40 instead of 5w-30 for a turbocharged engine though.

  • Nice… buy online with cashrewards add +$5 bonus, click & collect at the nearest shop.

  • For an everyday car like BL Mazda 3 or Toyota Aurion, would this oil be better or the Penrite HPR5 5w-40 in the other deal?

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