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Philips Master 10W LED Lamp 12V MR16 36D 3000K - Price $49.8

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10W energy consumption. Equivalent to 50W. Warm White light. Dimmable. 36 degrees beam angle. Low Voltage 12V. Cap-base: GU5.3 MR16.

Class A Maximum Energy Efficiency achieved through advanced LED technology.

Warm White halogen-like light.  Colour Temperature: 3000K.  Colour Rendering CRI: >80.

Low maintenance cost and ideal for hard-to-reach areas. Long lifespan of 15+ years.

High quality design, Robust housing. Shockproof. 

Environmentally Sustainable: No mercury or hazardous materials. No UV or IR. No heat.

LED technology is excellent for light-sensitive and heat-sensitive objects such as food, organic materials, paintings, etc. 

The ideal replacement (retrofit) for halogen spots.

Innovative active cooling technology - improved silent fan

Broadly compatible with existing electromagnetic & electronic halogen transformers.

Ideal Applications:

Where light is always or mostly ON such as Receptions, Lobbies, Corridors, Stairwells. Suitable for indoor general lighting and accent lighting.

Was 54.9 now only $49.8 for limited stock

Related Stores

lumentec.com.au
lumentec.com.au

closed Comments

  • Fan ? - How long is that going to last poking up into a dusty roof space?

    Anyone have these installed already?

    What is the lumen output?

    • +1

      360 lumens according to http://www.enviroshop.com.au/Philips_-Master-_10W_LED_Downli… (is this the same lamp ?)

      Anyway, its 7W of lamp plus 3W of fan.

      LEDs have come a long way, but there not quite here yet.

    • Luminous Flux 360 Lm
      Luminous Intensity 860 cd

    • The fan is not a spinning type - it's a vibrating thing. The fan is designed to last the life of the lamp.

      From my experience (professional energy consultant) these lamps certainly have their place. They provide a LOT more output than most of the cheapos.

      • thanks. I must admit, I was about to neg first up, but thought it was unfair to compare this to my DX cheapie.

        How do these stand up long term with typical roofspace dust building up on the fins ?

        Do you have a link about the vibrating fan ? I'm fascinated.

  • +2

    what a boring deal….had to search for the price
    Was 54.9 now only $49.8

    a light bulb? does it even run android?

    • +1

      I LOL'd

  • pls put price in title

    • price in title please

    • Thanks for suggestion. I did. cheers

  • -1

    5 buck saving? no bargain

    • -1

      not in this case, 5 bucks off a $5 light bulb sounds more like it

      • Hi mate, the average price online is about $65. We were selling at $55, now bring it down to $49.9

        Hope this is still a bargin for all of you. cheers.

  • -2

    What is the brightness in Lm. How can I compare?
    $50 is VERY xpensive

  • -7

    IKEA sells 0.5W light bulb for $5.

    • +6

      Hi mate, we need to compare apple to apple. Ikea 0.5w light bulb is completely different from Philips 10W LED globe.

      • True.

      • Strange you didn't mention the dealextreme deal which save me a lot of money.
        Seriously…. $50 for a bloody lamp… are we kidding?

        • Have you seen the price of good LED lamps?
          Comparing it to a dealextreme lamp is like comparing a Surefire to an Ultrafire. Or a dealextreme gorillapod to a genuine gorillapod. It looks exactly the same, but there is a real difference.

  • +1

    Twin pack $132 - http://lightingpro.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_…

    $49.99 - http://www.ledcentral.com.au/online-store/mr16-gu10-led-repl…

    $116.33 (riiiiiiiight) - http://www.anllighting.com.au/products?page=shop.product_det…

    10 for $449.50 - http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=philips+mr16+led&_sac…

    So…

    There may possibly be cheaper places, but compared to the places I searched it is definitely a bargain, although price at LED Central is very similar.

    This is no regular light 'bulb' so pointless comparing to a compact fluoro

    • Hi Antman

      I appreciate your comments. Thank you

  • As a 50W halogen bulb is just a few dollars when purchased in a multi-pack, it will take an awfully long time to recover the extra $40+ spent on this. How long is the warranty for?

    • +2

      Well, saving 40W at 20cents/kWhr will take 5,000 hours, or 3.4 years if the light is on for 4hrs/day, to recoup that $40 difference. However, since electricity prices are going up and up, PLUS we will have a carbon tax, I expect the break-even point will be less than 2 years. Given that these lamps are supposed to last 20+ years it looks like a good investment.

      • and that doesn't even take into account the extra airconditioning used to negate the additional heat from those halogen lamps.

        • +2

          … neither does that take into account the savings in heating bills over the winter months.

        • +1

          Heating bill? I wear warm clothing at home in winter. Not everyone lives in Melbourne. :)

  • -5

    49.8 for a led light? U must be crazy.

    • +3

      then point us to a better deal. Or is it that you believe that all LED lights are crazy purchases? If you look at only the purchase price compared to the incandescent or halogen lamps (and ignore the difference in electicity that each type consumes) then that is a pretty short-sighted comment.

      • Thank you jdr. I appreciate your comments. Cheers

  • This is a high quality lamp, and cannot be compared to cheap asian imports or crap from Ikea

    The lamp has the same form factor as a standard MR16, but has reasonable output. It is probably the best "retrofit" lamp out there at the moment.

    If you don't understand what it is, then refrain from posting. Negging is certainly NOT fair.

    • Thanks for your backup. llama. Regards,

  • +6

    Positive vote just to spite all the dumb negs . " what a boring deal?" * yawn*

      • +1

        Encouraging people to use their brain cells is a very good idea, you should try it sometime:d

        Also your in the minority ATM puff, me 2, you 0 :d

        • -2

          Telling people to use their brain cells, and then not being able to use the most basic of English 101 - using the correct "you're" in your post - lol oh the irony is delicious with this one.

        • if you have to resort to correcting someone's grammar in an attempt to save face, you've already lost.

          :)

        • -1

          I'm merely pointing out the irony in him telling other people to use his brain when he should clearly be heeding his own advice before worrying about others. Nice try though, better luck next time.

        • How do you know that i purposely posted that comment like that? I doubt I'm the only one here that browses ozbargain on my iPhone with auto correct on! Me 3 , you still 0

          You give up? Or you thirsty for more?

  • +1

    only 360 lumens? That is very old tech. Might as well stick to a cheap CFL.
    You should be able to get at least double that using a 10W Cree XM-L LED, which does 1000 lumens from 10W at the emitter.
    Those emitters have been available for many months now, less than $10 retail.
    So where are the 800 lumen $40 downlights we are waiting for?

    • +3

      The emitter needs to stay COOL to last in an environment like a downlight. Proper commercial products (not just the chips) need to work in real-life environments. So they need to be significantly under-driven below what the manufacturers like Cree rate as "best case output".

      There is NO WAY that a commercial-quality RETROFIT LED lamp will get 100 lumens per watt (what you suggest) and survive a reasonable time without massive lumen depreciation due to over-temperature of the LED junction.

      And to keep a 10W LED cool you need a massive heatsink, which is easy (but expensive) to design into a dedicated LED downlight, but these particular Philips lamps are not that - they are a lamp designed to retrofit into a standard MR16 fixture.

      With LEDs it's not about initial output… but the output over life. The cost of making them function reliably in real life is mainly in the cooling, not the chip itself. This particular LED lamp has extremely innovative active cooling, which allows it to be a MR16 form factor yet achieve reasonable output and lamp life (although only rated 25,000 hours at L70 (70% initial output)

      • Very good points, and I should have said I do not want an mr16 retrofit.
        It would be much nicer to have a large heatsink and passive cooling. (ie silent)
        If you have a suspended concrete slab, you can bond a metal plate heatsink direct to the slab, and plaster over it.
        Concrete is a reasonable heat conductor. Timber-frame ceilings could use a big cpu-style heatsink, and ventilation from below.
        (6W LED is a lot easier to cool than a 60W Intel chip.)
        The Cree XM-L emitter has a small enough die for downlights, and is much more efficient than older tech.

        "Cree currently recommends a maximum drive current of 2000 mA for XLamp XM-L white in designs seeking the ENERGY
        STAR* 35,000 hour lifetime rating(≥ 94.1% luminous flux @ 6000 hours)"

        That is 6.4W, leaving change from 10W for the driver and active cooling, and still get 600 lumens out the bottom.
        So 100 lumens/W at the emitter yes, but 60 after cooling, driver and optical losses. Is that too optimistic?
        But I will accept that this is not happening in an MR-16 form.

        FWIW, the Cree website does have a reference design for a passive-cooled MR-16, at 5W and 280 lm, designed to replace a 20W halogen. http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXML_MR16_ref.pdf

        • Why are you commenting in an MR16 retrofit deal then, saying a Cree LED has been available for many months and is a lot cheaper? :)

          This is a drop-in replacement. Stick it in and you're done. At the very most you need an iron core transformer.

          vs

          If you have a suspended concrete slab, you can bond a metal plate heatsink direct to the slab, and plaster over it. Concrete is a reasonable heat conductor. Timber-frame ceilings could use a big cpu-style heatsink, and ventilation from below.

          You're also missing out the part where you have to source a good LED driver circuit AND an appropriately-designed reflector for the desired beam pattern, and fit it all into a neat, electrically-safe package.

          a CFL is much better value right now if you simply want light, but CFLs look nothing like a downlight. There's no ambiance, it's just a wash. CFL downlights are not focused and you can't mount them creatively like MR16s.

          LEDs are currently where CFLs were when those first came out. It's only a matter of time…

        • So what is the emitter in these lamps?
          I'm just wanting to see XM-L based lamps on the market. Price should be similar, but more efficient.

  • browsing through… moving on…

  • +2

    come on every one. Please do fair ratings for any deal.
    If we don't know the product, should not give a negative based on another user, who also did without any explanation or thinking.

  • So this is 300lm, whats the difference between this and equivalents to high quality CREE and Epistar LEDs?
    The CREE & Epistar ones produce higher lumens.

    I have a 450-500lm CREE one, and it certainly doesn't match a 50W. 450-500LM in my opinion matches approximately 40w halogen in terms of light. (I have compared it… i have replaced my entire house around 17 of them with them).

    Those were $15-20 each.
    Prepare to be disappointing with the brightness of this one, it is a bargain compared to other places selling this LED, but it certainly isn't a bargain compared to other alternatives. Such as CREE which specialize in LEDs.

  • +1

    So apart from the magical vibrator, how is this any better then this?
    http://www.ledlightingaustralia.net.au/12V-LED-Lights-C13/7W…

    It's not really much of a bargain as it's 19c cheaper then LED Central.
    Philips always charges a premium for it's brand, which is often not justified.
    And based on 20c/Kwh, it would take 6000hr (or 250 days) to break even.
    So yes it'd be good for 'always on' lighting in a commercial environment.
    But the average punter would take years to see any return on their investment.

    • Comparing a generic chinese product with questionable ratings and design to one made or backed by a huge worldwide lighting company is a bit off.

      It's kinda like the difference between Vivo and Samsung. Some people can see the difference, others can't. That doesn't mean they're both exactly the same.

      And just like a Prius, it's not all about saving on your bill.

      • clearing out an old model just before the newer upgraded version at 10% off is standard fare.

        a lot leading edge products come out of china these days. it is unfair to just rely on a leading name from 20 years ago to flog the last generation product, and claim it is better

        • +1

          You're mixing up "made in china" and "designed in china". There are plenty of good products that are made there, but the vast majority of low-cost products that are designed in china are exactly that - low-cost products.

          One day you should buy a Surefire flashlight and compare it with a cheapo Ultrafire or similar. Build quality, machining refinement, internal construction, proper heatsinking, proper contacts, long-lasting switches, etc. You do often get what you pay for.

          This Philips lamp may or may not be better than a generic chinese lamp, but that's not the point. You're meant to vote on the deal, not on the product. Do you vote -ve on cheap Samsung or Sony TV deals simply because Vivo/Akai/Soniq makes TVs the same size for less money?

  • +3

    10% off doesn't cut-it at OzBargain.

    +1 to real deals!

    • +1

      I look forward to you negging the next apple 10% off sale

    • +2

      You thought this (up to) 10% off deal at JB Hifi was good enough for a positive vote…

      http://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/45524

      • +1

        You see not always people can give an impartial opinion.
        Good find :)

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