Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro $297.10 Delivered (AU Stock) @ Banggood

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Saw this back in stock. Ships from the Banggood AU warehouse.

●  What are the main differences between the Creality Ender 3 Pro and Creality Ender 3 ?
-Improving mechanical properties.Reduce friction and provide better dimensional stability.
-Improved extruder, reduce the risk of clogging and uneven extrusion.
-New magnetic printing surface, removable and flexible, which allows you to pluck prints off the build plate easily.

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Comments

  • Anyone have one? Any good? Looking for something to do multiples of small hose clamps.

    • Would it even be strong enough under radial tightening pressure? Or UV stable? Not sure they're what you want.

      Can't see it being any better than a fat cable tie.

      Edit: you can buy steel hose clamps down to at least 5.5mm if not smaller. That's not small enough?

      • There's materials for 3d printing that could definitely be strong enough and with high enough melting points (I don't think a piece of plastic is going to get above 200c from the sun, at least not from this planet).

        To dmbminaret, if your only plans are hose clamps, justtoreply's suggestion of cable ties will save you $295 and you will have a whole bag of them for when they break.

        • +10 votes

          I have justify my purchase by helping my wife make a "spatula" for her cream saved her from spending about 50c :)

        • u/justtoreply wasn't talking about temperature though, they mentioned "UV stable" many plastics break down over time under UV light, so this should be a consideration for parts being used outside.

          • @Singu1arity: I've had Cocoon Create's PLA (from ALDI) outside in the weather and direct sunlight for the past 4 years, holding up a pot full of water (a couple of kilos).

            Pic from 30 mins ago: https://i.imgur.com/pkZlYmV.jpg (part was a test for a Canon EF lens mount.)

            I'm surprised how well it has held up. No brittleness at all, and most of the distortion is from from pulling on the pot on hot days and twisting the part on cold days to see how it is holding up.

      • Got it on the last deal - not sure if we can print a hose clamp strong enough though…. Maybe with one of the more exotic materials?? but more then likely gonna be a struggle to print from a stock ender.

    • This is the kind of hose clamp:
      https://www.google.com/search?q=stauff+hose+clamps&prmd=simv...
      Not your normal type.

      • Yep I think those could be printed. Within reason of course. And also assuming you have the ability to draw or find the models etc

  • Finally decided to get one. Any deals/recommendations for filament?

    • https://3dfillies.com/

      I've been buying my filament from here and highly recommend them. Not sure how the prices compare to others but the product is definitely good and the customer service has been great (fast shipping and I got a reply to an email in minutes at like 9pm one night).

      I would definitely start with PLA printing first as it's a lot more forgiving with settings and easy to get a decent print with… But I have just moved on to PETG and ABS this last week (I've only been printing for just over a month) and I absolutely love the PETG, it's not that difficult to print and it is way stronger than PLA but it does string a lot which I have greatly reduced with some fine tuning but it's still there…

      ABS I had a lot more trouble with but I finally got it printing very nicely with a lot of trial and error. ABS you can also vapour polish which I am planing to try this week if I can get some acetone…

      It really depends on what you're trying to make for what filament is suitable. If you need something strong then PETG and ABS are better (PETG is the stronger of the 2). But if you just wanna make little figurines and models then PLA is fine, but ABS with vapour polish looks really cool (google it)

      Edit: I should mention that PLA is also quite strong as I made an enclosure for my printer, and I printed the brackets/hinges out of PLA and its plenty strong for that with enough infill. Google 'Ikea lack table enclosure' and you will see what parts I printed.

      If you want to print ABS you will need an enclosure. It warps a lot if it cools too fast and without an enclosure it will almost certainly peel away from the printing bed and possibly peel between layers. I wouldn't try printing ABS without an enclosure personally.

      • Can you share your slicer and temp settings that differ from PLA when printing PETG and ABS? Would prefer to skip the trial and error as much as possible. I didn't realise you needed an enclosure for ABS but I will try and print on 30+ degree summer days and see how it goes. The ABS is mainly for car interior parts that might see hot temps as it has much better heat properties than PLA or PETG.

        • It's going to differ between printers and filament brands but you can try the same settings. I have an anycubic i3 mega S and I'm using black PETG and black ABS from 3dfillies… I'm just using Cura slicer.

          PETG: Initial layer hotend temp: 240 degrees then 220 degrees for the rest. Printing speed I go quite slow depending on the complexity of the part being printed (between 25mm/sec up to 40mm/sec). Bed temperature initial layer 90 degrees then drop to 80 degrees. I've been running my fan at 0% for initial layer then up to 50%-60% by layer number 5. Higher fan speed is probably fine, it should actually have a better finish with full fan speed but layer adhesion might be worse. Retraction settings will differ between printers but I have my retraction at 8mm at 40mm/sec and 20mm/sec prime. You will want to disable Z hop when retracting for PETG, but it's important to either drop your bed level or use a Z axis offset so the print head doesn't collide with stuff you've printed. I've been using a Z offset of 0.02mm (there is a plugin for cura to enable Z offset). Another thing is you want to increase your travel speed quite a lot. I have been using 150mm/sec travel. This is to try minimise the stringing. I also enable coasting in experimental features.

          ABS: hotend at 250 for first layer then 245 degrees. Bed temp at 100 degrees for the whole time. I use a negative z offset of - 0.01mm to squish the print a bit to increase layer adhesion. Fan speed I run at 0 and up to 10%-20% by layer 5. Retraction settings are similar to what I had for PETG but I think I increased the reaction speed up to 60mm/sec. Leave Z hop turned on for ABS printing. Travel doesn't need to be as fast as PETG but at least 100mm/sec or faster if you like. You will need to print with a brim or raft with ABS, I have just been using a brim of 10mm-15mm depending on the part size. I think that's most of the stuff I have changed. There might be some other things. It's good to learn the settings and tweak them one at a time to see how it affects the print and try to get an understanding of what's happening when something goes wrong.

    • I mostly use 3DFillies PLA+, they're based in Melbourne, the price isn't bad ($26.90/kg roll), it's good quality and seems to ship quickly. If you do what I do and use one colour for everything that doesn't specifically need to be a particular colour, they do offer better prices for 3kg spools or a box of 8 x 1kg of the same colour.

      https://3dfillies.com/plaplus-filament-175mm-1kg/

    • https://www.cubictech.com.au/

      I get my eSUN branded filament from Cubictech which have decent prices (save on postage if you buy more).

      The eSUN PLA+ in my experience has been one of the best PLA filaments to work with in this price range, and in my opinion is better than the 3d fillies filament.

      It doesn't go off in humid environments (I've had mine sitting in the garage for over a year still prints well) and print quality is very good with this filament.

    • My top recommendations are: 3DFillies, CubicTech (for eSUN filament) and Aurarum. Aurarum if you want to support Aussie manufacturing.

  • People quickly give me justifying reasons when this shows up at the door. The misses will be very VERY MAD BECSUSE I DIDNT NEED ONE.

  • Can anyone tell if it has automatic bed leveling ?

  • Worth it in my opinion to spend the extra $ and get the Ender 3 v2 instead.

  • is this one any good for a beginner? by that, I mean zero experience first time getting his feet wet no clue beginner.

    at least in the early days, I will probably just be printing other people's 3D files from thingiverse (or is there a better/cheaper alternative for that purpose?)

    thx :)