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Kogan SmarterHome Smart Plug with Energy Meter & 5V 2.4a USB Ports (4 Pack) $39.99 + Shipping ($0 with Kogan First)

611
  • Monitor energy consumption from anywhere
  • 2 × 5V USB ports
  • Set timers and on/off schedules for your devices
  • Compatible with Google Home and Amazon Alexa
  • Control via the free SmarterHome™ app
  • Built-in Wi-Fi

FREE SHIPPING WITH KOGAN FIRST!

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  • +1 vote

    It's a good deal, especially with the USB ports being 2.4A each. I just can't find a reason why I need these, though I have been trying to find one for ages.
    If I want to know how much an appliance uses, I typically read the sticker and calculate it based on amperage.

    • +3 votes

      Christmas lights ?

      I use one for my garage door. My mate had his opened somehow and house broken into so I've set the garage to switch off at night.

      •  

        I already have one for the Christmas lights, and I haven't been able to repurpose it for any other purpose between this year's Christmas and last year's Christmas….

        If your garage opener has a hopping code, then it should be safe. Except of course if they manually open it from inside, which is easy. Good point for those with old openers using a static code though.

      •  

        Maybe your mate should lock the door between garage and home and put in a solid door.

      •  

        Same here. I used for my garage door. Schedule for turning on/off.

    • +1 vote

      It has various use cases in home automation beyond knowing how much power an appliance uses. You could use power usage to detect when the washing machine / dryer is finished and trigger a notification, for example.

      •  

        That's not a bad idea. Now to figure out what I'd do with the other 3 :)

      •  

        prob a silly question, but how do you do that?

        •  

          I don't know if this kind of thing is possible in Google Home, etc. Might need something like HomeAsisstant / NodeRed

        • +1 vote

          The easiest way would be to use the Tuya/Smartlife app. You can set up an automation to send you a notification from the app when there is a change in current or also use it to trigger other Tuya devices like change your Tuya smart light to red.

          Using two plugs you can use one to control the other. For example you can turn on your floor lamp if your computer is on.

    • +1 vote

      My main use case for these is for automation and reducing phantom power.

      I turn off my entertainment unit and my PC using these when I leave the house to drop my phantom power/baseline usage to a tiny 180w for the whole house.

      I also use the current power reading to determine when my dishwasher/washing machine are running, and send a reminder/announce over Google Home when they've finished.

      •  

        Thanks, that's useful. Are the reminders / announcements supported with the default Kogan firmware/app?

        Not sure how much phantom power is being used. The thing is, with devices constantly updating themselves (which I think my tv does), switching off the power could cause issues. We have solar during the day, so that helps at least.

        •  

          All notifications are handled through Home Assistant. These devices have been flashed with ESPHome for full local control.

      •  

        drop my phantom power/baseline usage to a tiny 180w for the whole house.

        180W? Surely an error there? That would be obscenely high.

        •  

          Interested why you think that would be obsenely high? It's a sustained 4.32kWh per day (around $1 of power) when an average household may use around 20kWh:
          https://ahd.csiro.au/other-data/typical-house-energy-use/

          My baseline power of standby/always on devices is around 280w, and I'm looking to reduce that.

        •  

          That's the baseline power for my entire house, not just for these sockets. I have a smart meter which gives me realtime monitoring of whole house power consumption.

          The phantom power draw from these devices while on is close to 40w, so it's almost a 20% reduction in baseline usage just by setting up this automation.

          •  

            @trankillity: OK,
            I took "phantom / baseline" to mean with nothing active running. I wasn't counting things like wifi/modem which are always-on and active.
            No fridge running, no cooking no heating, no TV, no charging.

            The 180W must include some always-on appliances?

            If I turn on the security system with cameras, smart-lighting/automation systems, modem, wifi, ethernet, multiple smart speakers, as well as the standby devices, chargers plugged in but not charging anything …

            … I measure a grand total of 120W. More than I expected.

            So for somebody who is as bad a gadget junkie as me, but in a bigger house, 180W sounds about right as minimum draw.

            •  

              @manic: Yes, that's all always on devices including fridge, hot water, network gear and NAS. So yeah, 180w is pretty good for a baseline 😃

    • +1 vote

      I typically read the sticker and calculate it based on amperage.

      In my experience those stickers are completely inaccurate.

    •  

      it's not 4.8A in total, either 2.4A on one or both running @ 2.4A(total)

    •  

      It's not 2.4A each, it's 2.4A max per port and also 2.4A max in total.

      'USB Input: 240V 50/60Hz,0.5A USB Output: 5V 2.4A Max(each) 2.4A (in total)'

  •  

    Do these block the next outlet ?

      • +16 votes

        No, they do not block the next outlet. They fit side-by-side in standard dual power outlets and power boards.

        https://imgur.com/a/sAUFyUG

    • +1 vote

      No they don't, that and the USB ports make this my favourite smart plug I've used so far

  •  

    good deal, I got them for 49 last time, and I thought that was good!

    struggling to think where to use them now.

    I just got the power board for 29….

  •  

    i have these with tasmota running. they work great. Can't control the USB 5v output unfortunately. this is always on

    •  

      hey mate - when did you flash your ones with tasmota FW?

      • +1 vote

        I flashed the ones I purchased in October 2020, but I have also seen reports since then that this is no longer possible.

        •  

          Correct. I purchased some a couple of months ago and they didn't work with Tuya Convert. YMMV. If they do work, let me know and I'll try my luck returning them.

    • +4 votes

      Note: tuya-convert is blocked on these due to the Tuya firmware update. You can't re-flash these with Tasmota anymore.

  • +1 vote

    I heard this new batch may not be tuya-convert flashable.

    Don't bother thinking about ripping them apart to flash them manually - it isn't easy. Glued together for the most part and difficult to access the pins

    • +3 votes

      Yep - as of a few months ago, all the Kogan stuff is running the newer version of the Tuya firmware with the new encryption scheme ("PSK 02"). Tuya-convert doesn't work with them. Found this out the hard way with the bulbs.

  • +4 votes

    I can confirm, that these do not work with tuya-convert anymore, even worse I paid $56 for 4.
    It might be worth adding this in the description, I didn't do proper research before I bought. I just read https://www.markhansen.co.nz/flashing-kogan-smart-plugs/ and, regretfully, went ahead with buying them.

    •  

      when did you try? i'll be following the same guide as what you have above.

    •  

      Does this mean you couldn't control these from OpenHAB or Home Assistant?

      • +1 vote

        You can still control them via the tuya integration in HA, people normally flash them for local control (faster, more secure, doesn't rely on tuya cloud etc).

  •  

    Thanks Op! I just saw on the email from Kogan as well. So happy my self control paid off! I was willing to pull the trigger with the normal price, all this week, but kept on thinking.. it's going to be on sale soon. glad i didn't have to wait that long!

    I'll be flashing this with tasmota firmware and integrating it with home assistant for home automation purposes.

    •  

      Read above, suspect the new series aren't tasmota compatible? Last set I got that were came from OzPlaza on ebay for a good price. They have sold out unfortunately :(.

      • +1 vote

        Yep cheers - Cancelled my order.
        Although comment below suggests you don't need to flash it, to get it integrated to hass.

  • +3 votes

    Seeming most of the Kogan stuff sold nowadays has had the tuya-convert hack patched. In lieu of that, you can use either LocalTuya (available in HACS) or TuyaGateway (available as an add-on via supervisor) with home assistant.

    My experience with both of them has lead me to use LocalTuya because it doesn't need MQTT and I can't be arsed learning it. Both require you to get the devices LocalKey, which can be a pain in the ass if you haven't done it before. Either way, the concept is that you don't need to flash the thing, and it allows both cloud and local control of the device.

    P.S. there's a bug being fixed with LocalTuya which causes some devices to go offline to your Home Assistant. Using three things with it, only one is having it happen, my kettle!

    • +1 vote

      ta mate.. fark.. i just cancelled my order and then just saw your comment after the fact. lol. i'm reading about LocalTuya and HACS. i have my hass running on docker. and not really used HACS..

      • +2 votes

        HACS should work in any setup. I'm running home assistant supervised on Debian, as a docker container. Have a read on how to install HACS, it's pretty simple and the stuff in it is pretty handy.

        •  

          No worries, I have re-ordred the plugs. I will read more on HACS. Pretty handy stuff indeed. Thanks a lot for your comment though. I was thinking tasmota firmware was just the only way to go with integrating with hass.

          I haven't really looked at any other smart plugs other than zigbee smart plugs, - i have four of these, they are pretty reliable and works well with hass via the xiaomi gateway.

          • +1 vote

            @Marbel: More than one way to skin a cat ;)
            I personally use ESPHome. Same concept, just like the interface a bit better. My smart plugs are the Mirabella genio you can get from Costco. Afaik they are hackable still. No power monitoring though.

    •  

      you can control them when your out and about, and I haven't flashed them?

      is that what you mean by cloud control?

      •  

        By cloud control, I mean via the tuya app

  • +1 vote

    Can anyone who owns this confirm if these can be controlled through Tuya/Brilliant Smart apps?

    •  

      I’d like to know this too.

    •  

      Yes. They're powered by Tuya. Kogan SmartHome app is just a rebranded Tuya app. They can also be controlled by Google Home thru Tuya integration.

      •  

        @johnmelb just said they don't work with Tuya
        also the smarthome app has really bad reviews

        • +1 vote

          He meant tuya-convert. Flashing a custom firmware to remove the dependence on internet and to use their own home server for privacy.

        •  

          They work with 'smart life'/'TuyaHome' or other tuya-based apps.
          You can't do tuya-convert (to install and use esphome or tasmota).
          Tuya-local should work too (haven't tried yet).

    •  

      Works with the known apps like "Smart Life" etc.

  •  

    Dumb question - but is there anything else I need to run this?

    I bought one of those xiaomi smart plugs a few years back and then it said I needed some gateway thing.

    Does this require anything else or just my smartphone that's it?

    • +1 vote

      no. these smarterhome product are really good. pricing and ease of use.

      you can use tuya app to control them and integrate with google home and/or alexa.

      •  

        others in the thread said you cannot use Tuya

        •  

          referring to a different tuya.

    • +1 vote

      a mobile phone, an app and a wifi.

      no gateways needed as its wifi.

    • +2 votes

      you need a wi-fi network - don't think a mobile alone would cut it

      •  

        Thanks to everyone who commented above,

        I'm assuming I can access my WiFi remotely from work to turn on the lights with this?

  • +5 votes

    $34.99 + Shipping ($0 with Kogan First) if you choose to use the Kogan app and haven't used it before.

    APPLOVE is the code to apply in cart using the app to get the $5 discount.

    Ordered two on the web and then noticed it. Ahh well, hope someone saves $5

    •  

      how do you add a code in the mobile app? it doesn't appear to give me that option at checkout.

      •  

        There is "promotion code" field in the app (or maybe discount code). Edit: field is discount code, says please enter code if no code applied.

        https://ibb.co/BCkwfhL

        I know they hide them on the web now …. i use ios, unsure on android.

        •  

          How strange, it doesn't appear to be on the android app. Thank you for your help anyway!

          •  

            @Dealr: Yup I don't see it on Android either. Lame.

            •  

              @la838: Click out of the cart and then back in, the coupon add was then visible. That worked for me anyway.
              Edit: Having retested this method i cannot seem to get it to work again.

              •  

                @Lucien: I have observed that the coupon field is visible only if your account is eligible for any active coupons.

    •  

      Thanks, worked for me.

    • +1 vote

      @Morrij: Thanks for the heads up. I grabbed for $34.99 (Kogan First Free Trial & Used APPLOVE for the extra $5 off).
      It showed fine on Android. Upon checkout and on the Pay screen, it was back up the screen.

  •  

    I have these and they work perfectly well. I use both via either the SmarterHome app, or Google Home ("OK Google, turn on …" )

    Unit is quite compact on the power point.

    I use it to switch on a stereo system in my office (saves getting up ahem), and my TV Amp when I want better sound. I did have it to switch on my kettle but that didn't work out so great. (Had to check for water etc.).

    Have yet to use for power consumption check but the app looks OK there at initial glance.

    Great value.

    •  

      you could either get a new kettle that supports water levels etc

      or, you could get an app-enabled scale and if kettle weights over X grams then its got enough water so turn on power point haha

  •  

    Will this work with Apple HomeKit?

    • +3 votes

      Need to use homebridge. They work well.

  •  

    Tasmota flashing steps for this plug, but not sure if it's still possible with the latest version. https://www.instructables.com/id/Home-Appliance-Raspberry-PI...

    •  

      No, OTA convert is broken. See comments above.

  •  

    Does anyone know if you could have this on a couple of fridges that are always left on. Then monitor/ get an alarm if they turn off or if the power goes out?

  •  

    Maximum Load 2400W / 10A

    so wont be able to use my dryer on it - just tips 10A and will cause a trip.

    Anyone recommend wifi/zigbee socket with power monitoring and >10A load support?

    •  

      hair dryer?

    •  

      What makes you think just over 10A will cause a trip?
      Does this even have an over-current trip?

      •  

        The TP Link HS110 has a 15amp peak as far as I know.

        EDIT: Whoops, sorry manic, meant to be a reply to walaj.

        •  

          Input voltage 100 - 240VAC
          Maximum Load 10A
          Maximum Load Power 2.3KW for 230V

          my tumble dryer trips my xiaomi zigbee socket when first starting up, 1 in 5 goes

          •  

            @walaj: Yeah, heaters, Aircons, Dryers etc. regardless of being below say 2400w etc can have an initial kick of over 3000w when turned on so these type of devices are generally not recommended. It comes down to the appliance.

  •  

    Not a fan of kogan brands. They don't last that long, like Dick Smith

  • -2 votes

    I'm hoping Kogan sees the flood of order cancellations after Tuya blocked the tuya-convert in their latest firmware. If enough people order then cancel, hopefully they'll realise we want the hardware, but want to run our own non-Chinese-cloud software on them.

    • +5 votes

      whats that got to do with neg-ing the deal? it is not even advertised for tuya-convert.

    •  

      Flash via serial. I'm gonna attempt it for the kettle.

      •  

        That may be ok for the kettle, but apparently these plugs are glued together.

        I got the other Kogan model (without USB), disassembled with a narrow tri-wing bit, but there are no serial headers.
        Fortunately old model, was able to use tuya-convert. Would be fiddly to try and connect serial lines.

  •  

    I use mine to turn on the heated blanket automatically during the winter nights, and turn them off again after a few hours.

  •  

    Kogan might only better with mobile, but still not.

  •  

    How do they compare with Dlink mini. Size for mini is perfect even u cant plug 2 of them together due to little wide in size. A little costlier though.

  •  

    damn, just paid full price @ 55.99 last week
    does anyone know if kogan will refund difference?

  •  

    What is the best alternative that works with the open source software?

    •  

      There are the Sonoff switches, but those do not have plug & socket, you attach cables.
      You can easily open them and solder on a header, to use a USB-serial adapter. Very cheap.

  •  

    Kogan is misleading customers again trying to make them believe it's usually priced more : "Price After Promo $59.99"
    2 weeks ago, no mention of any promo $55.9.
    I know it's only $4 , but is again showing how untrustworthy they are …

  •  

    Does anyone have a Home Assist integration script for these? Also, are they locally controlled or do they have to cross the cloud?

  •  

    Looks to be back to $59.99 now

    •  

      Not back, it was $55.99 before.
      So they made it higher after the promo, just to make you think it was more reduced than it really was.