What are your thoughts on 7/11 fuel quality? Any interesting stories to share?
7/11 Fuel Quality
lightfoot on 25/12/2020 - 19:32
Last edited 25/12/2020 - 19:32
Last edited 25/12/2020 - 19:32
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What about the flavour, how’s it compare to BP or Mobile?
Considering it says Mobile on most of their pumps I'd say it's probably a Mobile 2020 Vintage.
I prefer sniffing mine, like a real gentleman
I enjoy a $1 coffee with my fill up
Us real not-coffee-connoisseurs look down upon your watered down variety of not being a coffee connoisseur, as you clearly care too much. And this is coming from me, a person who is himself a pretender in the world of not-coffee-connoisseurs. The true believers will do anything. They will drink instant. Wait until people discover the value of size of the Coles Express large for $2.5. A household's worth of coffee.
Wait until people discover the value of size of the Coles Express large for $2.5. A household's worth of coffee.
… is it truee
lighten up, what is making you think so poorly of people you don't know?
I enjoy the 7/11 coffee, much more than other places like … Maccas
@[Deactivated]: Do Macca's still have their money back/replacement guarantee for coffee?
Probably not because it's not worth the price they charge. That said I wouldn't ask for my money back, I just wouldn't buy again.
In reality I only generally get Macca's coffee when they have one of their cheap deals.
@Mainsail: I'm not sure if about the money-back guarantee.
What I found with Maccas is that it depends very much on the newbie who makes your coffee whereas 7/11 consistency is there.
Also, a bonus is that for $1 you can make the coffee as strong as you want. For the price of one cup, you can have five shots if you want. I usually get a double shot with every coffee.
The dollar 7/11 coffee actually tastes better than some $3.5-4 coffee from a few of the cafe i've been to.
@buckethat: When cafes try and pay $3.5-$4p/h (figuratively speaking) then that's what you usually get.
Not saying coffee is hard to make, but it's easy to stuff up as well.@2023: not sure I agree with that justification, no matter ho much you're paid, its a bit sad to produce lesser quality coffee from a machine that sells it for $1. Realistically though how much do you feel that baristas should be paid?
@buckethat: Sometimes it's out of the baristas hands, if the cafe decides to use a certain roast, or go with the corporate that gives them the best deal, or it comes down to personal taste.
But on the other hand if they are shit at their job then burning the roast, not tamping correctly, shit work with milk etc can all lead to poor coffee.
A machine can repeat each step almost flawlessly as long as the beans are full and milk is tapped in.Not saying baristas should be
In the upper tax brackets, but if they're good at their job and bring business into their place of work then should be paid accordingly.
Definitely more than Min wage, but not going crazy.
Coffee is one of those things that everyone has a personal preference for.
For me… the 7-11 brew is the best Cappo I have had… and that includes barista shops with amazing snob value.
I have found a fair bit of variety between 7eleven stores the two closest to me are chalk and cheese.
Yep, walk around the CBD and sample a few, they can be pretty terrible, or kinda nice
@Bren20: Try the coffee out of the new machines at coles express servos. Same price but you can adjust strength (weak, regular or strong). I find them a bit better than 7/11- maybe because no one buys them and so the machines don't have limescale/ burned grinds accumulating and depositing into the drink
@naturaldecay: Yeah, I have tried them, they are pretty good, I just don't really have any near me. Just gotta make sure you give them a stir, or the first sip is really nice and strong, and the bottom of the cup is milk.
@naturaldecay: I make my own 7/11 coffees nice and strong with 3 espresso and a small long black in a medium.
@2023: My preference is the iced coffee with 1 short black before pressing the iced coffee button.
Definitely worth figuring out the machine so you can get a decent cup.
Also a fan of Coles offering strength and skim milk options.
As for fuel, for my basic non turbo or lower compression cars, I've always used the 94 octane ethanol blend.
Never had issues with the fuel, other than noticing my local 7-eleven never has the 94 pump available.
@2023: what does this end up costing you for this kind of coffee? just the cup price eh?
achew
'scuse me
I've been using 7/11 fuel for the last 5 years atleast. no issues whatsoever.
They get their fuel from Mobil, I think.Same, no complaints from the last 5 years. Fairly consistent fuel economy.
No problems from 1+ year here
Been using for ages too (3-4 years) with 98 in my VW golf, no issues.
7/11 just rebranded all the Mobil petrol stations so I trust them
Their fuel locker app is great too - I often save $10-20 per 50l tank
@srhardy: Sorry the app is called “My 7-Eleven” and there is a Fuel Lock feature where you can lock in a price and use the voucher within 7 days
Is your name Karen?
nah just get tired of my fuel mileage being literally half what it should be. heaps of overcharging scams on the gold coast…
You should report them if you think that is the case. There are huge fines for meddling with the pumps. I agree the Coast was the epicentre of dodgy fuel about 30 years ago, but I assume it's better now. I think whatever they used to fill the tanks with which didn't have excise on it has excise on now. I can't exactly recall.
Maybe it's your driving lol and a placebo effect
literally half
Literally…..really?
Literally Half? Have you measured it? Didn’t think so.
@Euphemistic: Yes, I measure the mileage with the odometer as above. No probs with 7/11 if the station/pumps are good.
@Cave Fire: So if you are ‘literally’ getting half the fuel economy then there is something seriously wrong. Either fuel quality/quantity in which case you should be hitting up the servo or registering a complaint against them. Or potentially your vehicle has a significant problem. You should normally only get a variation of about 10-20% in fuel consumption.
Kind of impossible because the engine wouldn't run if it's half the 'quality' and you can't be putting half the amount in. Unless the pump is registering double what you are actually putting in, but that would be easy to spot. Ie. If it takes 60l to fill from 1/4 tank one day and 120l another day.
@OzzyOzbourne: Not impossible. That retailer could be miles away at the bottom of a huge valley. The poster didn't exactly give details or a scientific method.
Did you try testing this? I was suspicious of a few places too but then I measured the how far 30L got me after a few fillups from a few different places and they were about the same.
It’s often the same Toll trucks that fill up servos of different brands (7/11, shells, caltex etc. you name it).
Perceived differences though, greatly depend on how you feel about each brand.
Toll is a outsourced delivery company, the place the trucks fill up is different in some cases.
But not all cases. Some fuel is imported as petrol to Australia. Some is refined here. For the most part fuel is a fungible commodity. Sometimes some different additives are added by the different brands.
its mobil fuel so should be ok
I find after a few glasses you can't tell the difference..
LOL… he got pulled over and blew 94 octane!
What’s your story?
Thanks for asking.
I don't really have a story, I've been pumping 7/11 fuel for a few years, rotating on 91/95/98 when I feel like.Haven't had any problems so far (touch wood).
Only reason I asked this question was that one of my friends who used to pump 7/11 switched to Caltex and stated that he noticed a difference in terms of milage and vehicle performance.Heard some stories of friends of friends of friends who had issues with 7/11 fuel where vehicle stalled, fuel contamination etc (just unconfirmed stories passed down).
So naturally, was curious to see what the community had to say.
Heard some stories of friends of friends of friends who had issues with 7/11 fuel where vehicle stalled, fuel contamination etc (just unconfirmed stories passed down).
There's also stories in OzBargain that had experienced fuel contamination at Shell, Caltex and United.
Fuel contamination happens regardless of the brand
The regular unleaded fuel economy is the same or better compared to others like BP, Shell and Caltex. Heard stories that the fuel at 7/11 is "dirtier" but ye ol corolla ran fine for the last 10 years on 7/11 petrol. Ran it on Esso/Mobil early on then switched to Caltex before the station stopped stocking regular unleaded, then switched to 7/11 (if you're interested…)
hahah "ye ol corolla ran fine for the last 10 years on petrol."
People let their fuel tank get to 1/4th and then one day fill-up because they are running on empty and then their car starts having problems and instantly blame the service station, 99% of time its not the fuel you just bought its the fact your constantly sucking up the contaminants that pool at the bottom of your tank by leaving your fuel tank on low trying to suck up every last drop inbetween the fumes and it runs past your old and partially clogged fuel filter (which you don't replace anyway) down the lines and into your engine which is already neglected causing a problem.
The big monopolized stations see more thoroughfare then independent's which begets more scrutiny , as long as you are cycling your fuel tank on a regular basis (i.e using it up and not letting it dip towards empty) you won't have any drama.
Fill up your car with whatever you can afford at the time according to whats recommended on your petrol flap , if you are overly concerned keep your receipts and try to go to the same service station if you have not had issues before and if one day you have an issue and your mechanic detects something abrupt in your fuel supply you MAY have a case with those receipts otherwise its luck of the draw in the long run
Most of the petrol with the exception of BP all comes from the same source then distributed across service stations , the only differences you see between stations in terms of premium fuels is how much additives they place in their fuel.
Easiest non technical explanation i can give is go down to your local shopping center , pick up 2 or 3 branded cordials of similar likeness and compare the ingredients , you are still getting cordial but some have more sugar and additives then others.
In all seriousness i have always shopped where there is a cheaper price but i regularly shop at the big brands and not independents and in my over 15 years of driving i have not had a single fuel related issue at all whatsoever , i have also had 10+ different cars and 10+ different motorcycles.
Since we are giving savings advice…
For me a bargain is saving money, by having 1 car last 15 years, that saves more than buying the cheapest fuel. 20+ Vehicles is more than 1 a year 😀
Unless you own a BMW or Mercedes but then again the word bargain does not enter the same sentence at that point.
For a bargain on personal sanity however , costs are always higher for some people more then others.
Good on you for keeping and looking after your car , people like yourself are few and far between.
Vehicles are costly but you cannot put a price on personal satisfaction. the more you have the more you want and the less content you are with what you have. a vicious cycle i hope to break , one day.
@[Deactivated]: Fair enough. BTW not a criticism of your admirable love of fine cars or excellent fuel storage/use advice. 👍
The comment was more about giving advice on bargaining, which was only in your last paragraph, not the rest of your post.
As you admit your costly addiction is contrary to this goal.
Fuel majors can be as guilty as Independents, they however are more able to make restitution in the case of contamination, which is rather difficult to prove in all cases.
And as well how do we define an independent. The OPs request is on 7/11which the 5th largest fuel supplier in Australia
Costco would be an independent, but large in support.
Some references
https://www.carsguide.com.au/car-advice/who-are-the-biggest-…
https://www.choice.com.au/transport/cars/maintenance/article…With the 7/11 fuel price app you can make significant savings by locking in prices using each of your families phones during fuel price cycles and if you travel around a lot. (yes some know how to cheat but thats not the advantage I am talking about)
Has this ever been proven?
Fuel pick ups are at the bottom of the tank so any sediments and contamination are going to get sucked up first regardless of the stunning of fuel in the tank.
You do realise that almost all ~80's till current EFI cars have an in tank pump with a sock filter assembly that essentially sits on the floor of the tank, right? All that fuel pumping through your fuel rails has come from… the bottom of your fuel tank.
This doesn't change the fact hes right.
You can go forever with no dramas until you really run low, then you get any water/grit into the filter assembly and have dramas/water alarms.
Sir, this is a Wendy's.
Where does the fuel pickup normally suck fuel from when your tank is full?
No point putting decent fuel in a Corolla. 7/11 is fine for run of the mill cars.
I use 7/11 fuel often atm with the locked in pricing. But 7/11 is often the cheapest anyway near me. I use 98 in car and diesel in truck and never had any issues with the quality of their fuel.
FWIW 98 reduces the cost of servicing and the car is more responsive.
The thing I wonder is that how do we know 98 tank has 98 petrol in it and not 95 or 91. Whats stopping small family run pumps to not do this mix up to earn money?
Audits
You would end up with a lot of broken premium fuel cars.
Petrol stations make money from the higher margins on the convenience store, not the fuel.
Out of interest how does 98 reduce the cost of servicing the car?
i would like to know this too
@fishing
FWIW 98 reduces the cost of servicing
Going to have to see your working on that one…..
Your engine either needs 98ron or it doesn't, based on compression etc.
If your engine doesnt need it, you're wasting money.
If your engine does need it, you need it.But it's not going to make a single difference come service interval time…
While I do agree with you, based purely on the definition of the RON rating, 98 can be more than just its rating. The fuel sometimes contain extra cleaning additives which may help prevent carbon build-up in the engine. So it could be worth it. Of course, whether it's worth paying the premium purely for such cleaning agents, and how effective they actually are in reality, I've got no answer.
Personally, my car is rated for RON95 and that's what I always use, no additives. But I also take my car for regular long drives of up to an hour, with the odd weekend 4 or 5 hour trip, which is also helps to prevent build-up.
With a modern car you'll find this less effective however, your fuel is injected into the combustion chamber. The oily problems you would want the cleaners for are generally EGR related and injected into the air intake (which is where your oily mess is a problem). The cleaners may help your fuel system or injectors, but also probably won't do much as the fuel itself is a pretty good cleaner, and once they are injected your fuel is a mist which quickly goes boom. You'd be better spending $8 once a year for an in fuel additive (or not bother if you have a relatively new vehicle).
If you have an older carburetor based car then go for your life, but ensure you tune it for 98 or it'll probably knock like hell. Which is important advice for anyone, if your car doesn't list the fuel you intend to use you are risking knocking, and should probably get a tune/alternate map for it.
My old Subaru liberty (2.5i NA) did not require premium fuel per the manual.
When using open source software (romraider logger with tactrix cable) to log detonation/knock/pre-ignition events, I found that on 98 there was no knock/detonation.
With lower octane fuel and running the factory tune/programming, there was knock.
I believe this does lead to quicker headgasket & bearing failure (among other factors).
So if you trust the manufacturer to properly tune/program the car for the specified fuel and conditions, sure you wouldn't expect to have to use a higher octane fuel than specified.
Sadly manufacturers don't always get their tune right (for whatever reason), I believe dieselgate was one example .
What year was your Liberty? Curious since I drive one around
@mynamejeff: 2009, that car blew headgaskets at 100,000km and had to replace the engine soon after with one from a wrecker.
I believe dieselgate was one example .
No it wasn't.
That was VW putting software in their cars to detect when they were being tested for emissions and fuel economy and changing their performance to give a better test result@spaceflight: Maybe I wasn't clear in my example, I mention dieselgate as an example of why car programming can't always be trusted (or maybe programming in general, unless you are the one writing the source code).
FWIW 98 reduces the cost of servicing
No it doesn't
and the car is more responsive.
Only if the car is designed to run on 98 and you are using lots of throttle.
No stories. I use it from time to time, it’s the cheapest close to home for when I’m not going past the cheapest in town. Fuel economy (recorded in an app) doesn’t noticeably change. No noticeable performance change.
I follow the pricing. My car prefers 95 octane and 7/11 E10 is 94 octane so that makes it a cheap option. The car’s computer sorts out the difference. It’s Mobil fuel so I trust it. I prefer United E10 if I can find it with 95 octane and they often price their increases a day or two later than other servos. I have tried higher priced higher octane fuels when doing road trips using cruise control but can’t notice much difference in range so went back to E10 94 or 95 octane. I know biofuels are supposed to be less efficient than regular but I can’t seem to find a difference worth the expense. Believe me I’ve tried for years on a lot of road trips. I drive a 6 cylinder 4 litre turbo.
XR6T?
G6ET
You get more K's out of using 91 vs 94+E10 due to ethanol having a lower energy coefficient , you actually see better bang for your dollar so to speak and thats usually where the deception is , they make E10 cheaper at the bowser but in the long run it is costing you more.
But if your car requires 95 at a minimum then i would be using 95 and not 94+E10 because even though most modern day car's ECU can retard the timing you are still losing performance and putting ethanol into your system which for older car's is not a good idea.
The manufacturer recommends 95 and E10 is approved. I’d rather have the octane rating higher. The car is serviced regularly and I often get a good comment about the car in general from the service guy when they go over the service check sheet. I’d rather pay extra for 95 than put in 91.
It's the same oil that comes from the ground and is refined like all the others
From the same refinery too, most likely.
Some of the additives maybe different but that’s marginal stuff, detergents and whatevs.
I find that I get more KMs on a 98 tank of BP compared to 7/11. Although with the 7/11 chopper I'm not sure if the math is worth it to pay the difference.
No difference noted with 7/11 fuels, my cars still ping under load using 98 or ethanol 94.
Why aren't servo's displaying the status of their Fuel, Tanks, Filters and Pumps?
(Restaurants are required to display certain health certificates)Why is the price of fuel so out of sync with market crude prices?
7 Eleven is the old Mobil
Always good quality fuel
Never had a problemNo issues. 98 only in a Galant VR4 and an FTO which are made for Japanese equivelant high octane.
Only issue I have ever had with fuel was a Shell on the way to Sydney from Melbourne. Car hated it, next fill and she was fine.
I think the age of the station and when the underground storage was refilled matters more. 7/11 is just fine most of the time. Their stations are usually newer. Just don't fill up when you see a tanker bcos it will bring the contaminants up. And new underground storage tanks have less contaminants. That's why I don't trust independent service stations.
Keep the receipt from each fill up, doesn't matter where. If there's an issue and you can identify it's from the fuel, to back and get them to pay for the repairs.
Bad fuel can happen anywhere it's not a difference in fuel quality because it all comes from the same place really, it's usually when their tank is low or has just been filled up and the sediment is swirled around. They have procedures to reduce the chances of this by waiting before customers can use the fuel but sometimes they don't.
No receipt, no chance of a claim.
If you want the best fuel then buy where they have the highest volume of sales for freshest fuel. This usually means the cheapest servo around.
Have been using 7-11 98 for ~ 1year on a high compression cammed 6L V8. No probs & did not lose any power from BP 98.
I think it gives my GT86 cricket noises
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I fill up my petrol tank with it and it makes my car move. It's pretty good stuff.