Nice little price drop on this 200gb micro SD card which is a great price for this size… Possibly the lowest price for this size?
Sold by AZ eShop and shipped by Amazon.
Note this pack doesn't come with the SD card adapter.
CamelCamelCamel.
Is this Genuine or fake?
I bought a 128gb micro SD from the same shop (Az eshop Amazon) and I can confirm that they ship out genuine SD cards :)
Did you transfer 100GB of data onto that stick to test it? Most of these cheap high capacity cards fail after around 30GB of data…. And most people don't reach that so don't realise it till much later or even at all!
Yea mate, I use the card for my Mavic mini drone. Fill it up with footage until it's full then transfer back to my hard drive, it's as promised I got 119GB until it was full (as you know as cards take some capacity off)
@Zaynkau: Not sure if you understand why "capacity is taken off", so I will explain.
Doing so because, I found it quite interesting when I first learnt of it.
The "real" way to calculate a GB is 1024bytes x 1024 bytes x 1024 bytes = 1,073,741,824 bytes. Or 1.07 billion bytes. This is the way that Windows reports a GB too.
The way that storage companies (hard drive, SD card etc, USB drives) calculate a GB is 1,000,000,000 bytes or 1 billion bytes. You usually see this written on the box in the fine print. The reason they say they do this is for simplicity.
So a 128GB SD card will have 128 billion or 1,280,000,000 bytes.
Under the Windows way of calculating size, this only ends up being 119GB. To calcuate this it is 1,280,000,000 divided by 1,073,741,824
@John Stone: Seeing as we're all learning today…
The reason we have this issue is really Microsoft's fault (maybe not, but I lay the fault with the OS I'm familiar with)
A byte = 8 bits
A kilobyte = 1,000 bytes
A megabyte = 1,000 kilobytes
A gigabyte = 1,000 megabytes
A terabyte = 1,000 gigabytes
This is how manufacturers calculate a "128 gigabyte" flash drive, according to the actual definition.
HOWEVER
Computers work in base 2 (binary) (while humans typically work in base 10). So, 10(base 2) = 2 (base 10), 100(base 2) = 4 (base 10) etc. As they work in base 2, they don't have the round 1,000 > 1,000,000, but instead have
1,024 > 1,048,576 > etc (being 2^10, 2^20, etc) 2 ^ 10 = 1,024, which is referred to as a kibibyte (kilo-binary byte)
A byte = 8 bits
A kibibyte = 1024 bytes (= 2 ^ 10)
A mebibyte = 1,024 kibibytes = 1,048,576 bytes (= 2 ^ 20)
A gibibyte = 1,024 mebibytes = 1,073,741,824 bytes (= 2 ^ 30)
A tebibyte = 1,024 gibibytes = 1,099,511,627,776 bytes (= 2 ^ 40)
The confusion all came along because, for convenience and simplicity, Microsoft refers to "-bibytes" as "-gabytes" (eg refers to "gibibytes" as "gigabytes"), which goes against what storage-makers use (as the proper use of -gabytes).
So, if a memory card is 32GB (according to, say, Sandisk), it is 32 x 1000 x 1000 x 1000 = 32,000,000,000 bytes. According to most Operating Systems nowadays, that 32 billion bytes will be instead "converted" to gibibytes, (32 billion / 1,073,741,824 bytes = 29.8023223876953125 gibibytes, or as OSes will show, 29.8 Gigabytes).
200GB Sandisk drive = 200GB / 1,073,741,824 bytes = 186.264514923095703125 bytes ~= 186.26 Gibibytes (as shown in Windows etc).
2TB Sandisk drive = 2TB / 1,099,511,627,776 bytes = 1.818989403545856475830078125 bytes ~= 1.82 tibibytes (as shown in Windows)
Note as well that when a drive is formatted, some space is reserved, so your actual usable space in Windows / preferred OS will be slightly lower, depending on how the drive is formatted (file system etc).
@Elegant Giant: You're missing some history, perhaps deliberately.
The binary suffixes (gibibyte etc) came about because of the disagreements between hard drive makers and OS makers, they weren't a thing before that.
Thanks! Great price.
look at the 1 star review, cant tell if stupid or troll.
probably both.
Is a u1 microsd card good enough for phone usage; for everyday apps, pictures, videos etc? Or would I need a u3 microsd card like the Samsung evo+ or SanDisk extreme? Is there a big difference for u1 and u3 that it would affect everyday usage? TIA.
Is there a big difference for u1 and u3
The biggest difference is when putting data onto the card, It will be considerably slower than a U3 card, particularly as some U3 cards achieve much higher write speed than their U3 rating would indicate. Some Samsung EVO+ cards, while saying U3 (30+MBps) actually achieve 80+MBps. Unlikely to make much of a difference when taking photos and videos, unless you're recording 4K content.
You'll certainly notice the speed difference when you copy all the data from your previous card to the new card. The write speed listed is usually for sequential data, but that's not the speed you're likely to see when copying lots of little files. You're more likely to see the "4K write speed", if you can find the full specs for this card. Expect the copying to take hours, perhaps even overnight if you're copying from a full 128GB card.
Another difference is that some cards use more power than others. If you're using it in a phone, that means your phone's battery will go flat faster. I don't know if it applies to this one, but many Sandisk cards and USB sticks are known for running hot, and heat equals wasted power.
Also check first to see if your phone can handle a card this size. Many can't.
The 200GB I bought 1 year ago would write at > 40mbps as reported by CrystalDisk.
It's labelled as 'U1' class, while it's actually 'U3' based on my test result above.
Bear in mind they could've changed NAND since then, although unlikely.
I suspect cards are rated like PC CPUs. They test some of each batch at the higher speed, and if they pass they are sold as the higher speed. The rest of the batch don't get tested, and are sold as the lower speed, even though many of them are capable of the higher speed (the same way many CPUs can be successfully overclocked).
200gb wow
thoughts on using this on a Sony A7 Camera?
I literally just bought a 256gb after waiting 2 years for $44 bucks and now this pops up lol
Memory Storage Capacity 1 MB ?? misprint? i wonder if this is a fake sd card formatted with FAT of 200gb but really only 1mb? any good apps to test it?
H2testw is a free simple yet effective utility thay will fill all free space with a specific pattern of data then verify that the data has been written correctly. Best way I've found to weed out those nasty fake capacity cards & USB drives. Format them first before testing & I recommend FAT32 or exFAT file system as NTFS reserves some extra space that will not be tested.
For large capacity cards, once authenticity is confirmed, I suggest formatting to NTFS. exFAT is more susceptible to corruption. NTFS is more reliable and provides faster write speed
exFAT has many of the same data safety extensions as NTFS, so I'm curious as to what makes you say that.
EDIT: huh, exFAT still lacks journalling? I stand corrected I suppose.
Can see $50 as price? is it gone? :(
Says $50.
Would anyone recommend this for a Nintendo switch or something bigger?
I've bought 4 memory cards from AZ eShop via Amazon - 2 CompactFlash, 2 SecureDigital. Whilst I'm no expert on detecting fakes, I can confirm that:
I actually run h2testw at least twice on each card when I buy it. Once "fresh out of the pack" and once after quick-formatting the card.
I do this because I have been asked to cover events previously for family and friends because they mistakenly believe I know how to take good pictures !!
In each case the cards I've bought from Amazon (either directly or from AZ eShop via Amazon)
Note - I am NOT endorsing anyone. As always, you need to use your own judgement. But my recent experiences have all been fine.
Hope this helps someone.
I used to do all the camera work too. It's not because they think you're good at taking photos, it's because they want to have fun and get you to do all the work :)
Thanks mate, got one.