Recommend Me a Wi-Fi Adaptor for My PC

LHeckenberg on 22/02/2021 - 12:26

The Allied USB Wi-Fi dongle I purchased with my Techfast PC constantly drops the signal to my Telstra modem.

Techfast replaced the dongle, yet I continue to have the same intermittent Wi-Fi signal connection problems. Usually, the connection will drop out and then reconnect soon after, however sometimes it drops out and then my computer fails to show any available connections at all?

I don’t know what to look for when considering better/more expensive adaptors. (I also don’t want to run an Ethernet cord if it can be helped).

For some context, my PC is in my study which is a few meters down the hall from the living room where the Modem is located.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Computing Wireless Adapter

Comments

  • Twix on 22/02/2021 - 12:42

    PCI-E Wi-Fi adapters are the way to go. PC specs?

    • BewareOfThe Dog on 23/02/2021 - 13:29
      +1

      I agree. I bought a TP Link AC1300? USB, but it would keep dropping out in MAcOS. If I rebooted in Windows, it would take a few minutes to recognise the network (sometimes not at all).
      I put in a Broadcom PCI card, which works flawlessly in both MacOS and Windows.

    • Heckenberg on 24/02/2021 - 09:02

      Thank you. Have ordered a PCI-e adaptor so I’m eager to see how it goes. This is the PC I have: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/512876

      • Twix on 24/02/2021 - 09:06

        Which PCI-E adapter did you order?

        • Heckenberg on 24/02/2021 - 09:24
          +1

          The Archer AX-3000 which was recommended in a below comment.

  • bazingaa on 22/02/2021 - 12:51
    +1

    I use this Realtek 8811CU Wireless LAN 802.11ac USB NIC from Amazon, no issue at all with Win10 (Linux drivers are not that easy to install though).

  • pformag on 22/02/2021 - 12:53

    Bought these for our company for hotspotting when NBN failed. Has happened twice.

    Worked great. Had 6 computers running them and no issue.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC1200-High-Power-USB-AC-Wireles…

  • Switchblade88 on 22/02/2021 - 13:03

    Try moving the adapter away from your case with a cheap USB extension cable.

    I've had horrendous issues with 2.4Ghz devices (including wifi) getting interference from USB3.0 devices - they run at the same frequency so being in close proximity causes too much digital noise.

    • BewareOfThe Dog on 23/02/2021 - 13:31

      I had similar issues, with my mouse/keyboard, when a USB drive was plugged in. I now have them on a USB 3.0 powered hub. Works fine.

    • Heckenberg on 24/02/2021 - 09:10

      I had actually already tried this as I have a USB extension cord from my Logitech mouse. Unfortunately it did not seem to improve the situation. Thanks anyway.

  • MrRobot on 22/02/2021 - 13:10

    I bought this one recently. It was inexpensive and it works really well.

    https://www.amazon.com.au/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Network…

    • GloveM8 on 22/02/2021 - 14:44
      +1

      these days, I wouldn't really recommend buying anything that is only 802.11N. This dongle is only capable connecting to a 2.4ghz @150mbps connection when most routers these days put out both 2.4ghz and 5ghz.

      the 802.11AC version of this TP Link Mini Wireless for around $30 would be a better option.

      However, if youve got an actual desktop tower, a PCIe network card is the way to go.

  • Caped Baldy on 22/02/2021 - 14:28

    I've got a usb wifi dongle attached to a usb extension cable and it works well.

  • GloveM8 on 22/02/2021 - 14:31
    +1

    if you can't get a workable ethernet solution, get a PCIe network card with a detached antenna for the best possible WiFi perfomance. These antennas have higher gain than some of the dongles and may help you get a better connection to a weaker wifi signal. The better cards are also generally capable of higher speeds over wifi, and cover a wider variety of wifi frequencies than some of the cheaper dongles.

    they are relatively inexpensive and you should be able to get something decent without spending more than $100.

    I got one of these around 12 months ago and it has worked really well , covers 2.4ghz and 5ghz wifi bands, has bluetooth and is also wifi 6 compatible.

    Archer AX3000

    however you can get options that are around $30-$50 as well. At minimum, you want something that is at the 802.11AC wireless standard

    If you are still having problems with the WiFi after getting a better adapter, its probably an issue with the router/network itself and you may need to look at getting something like a set of mesh routers to improve coverage in your home.

    • Heckenberg on 24/02/2021 - 08:53
      +1

      Thanks for the recommendation. I’ve gone ahead and grabbed myself the card you have linked. Looking forward to seeing the results.

      • GloveM8 on 24/02/2021 - 13:51
        +1

        Great, happy to help.

        I have just seen your comment below regarding the modem being a part of your issue, so I thought I would weigh in on that too.

        With WiFi, fundamentally you need to remember that data needs to flow both ways, the signal needs to be strong enough for the devices to "listen" but then your downstream WiFi devices also need to have the antenna strength to "talk back" and transmit back to the router in order to complete the communication. If you have a crap router, even the best WIFI receiver is going to have a marginal impact at best. If you have the best router and a crap receiver, same thing. You have to try and balance both.

        If you're still having problems after getting the new WiFi card, your next step is to try and move the router closer to you, or to buy one with a stronger Wi-Fi signal. I would buy a router only (and not a telco issue modem/router combo). You will simply have to set your Telstra modem to "bridge mode" and then plug the new router into one of the ethernet out ports of the Telstra modem. The Telstra modem will continue to handle your connection to the ISP only, and the new router will handle the rest. If you can afford it, I would suggest getting a pack of mesh Wi-Fi nodes.

        • Twix on 24/02/2021 - 15:45
          +1

          Bridge mode is used for FTTN and FTTB. Hackenberg is on HFC and you don't set the Telstra smart modem to use bridge mode. With the Telstra VoIP service you do plug the new router into the Telstra smart modem but instead you configure the new router as an access point. Without the Telstra VoIP service you remove the Telstra smart modem from the setup and plug the new router to the UNI-D1 port on the HFC NTD.

          • GloveM8 on 24/02/2021 - 16:53
            +1

            @Twix: thanks for clarifying, didn't realise he was on HFC otherwise my advice would've been different. Cheers

            • Twix on 24/02/2021 - 17:03

              @GloveM8: That's cool. Everything else you said was spot on :-)

  • BewareOfThe Dog on 23/02/2021 - 13:32

    Also, what are Telstra Modems like? Should OP also consider replacing this with a DLink etc?

    • Heckenberg on 24/02/2021 - 09:14

      That’s a good question. I’ve always wondered if part of the problem was my modem, but I never seem to have any issues with connectivity for any other devices so I wasn’t sure. Do ISP provided modems usually have bad/low specs, or is there another reason why a different modem would be better?

      • Twix on 24/02/2021 - 09:27

        Most ISP modems have mid range specs and the latest Telstra smart modem has much better specs. Telstra have released different smart modems over the years. What one do you have?

        Are you connected to the NBN by FTTN, FTTB, FTTC, FTTP, HFC or FW?

  • Heckenberg on 24/02/2021 - 10:22

    I have the Telstra Smart Modem (latest one I believe) and the NBN connection type is HFC.

    • Twix on 24/02/2021 - 13:31

      The latest Telstra smart modem gen 2 has 4x4 MIMO and is quick for Wi-Fi 5. With HFC you can purchase any new router you like. I would only upgrade if you want Wi-Fi 6.

Login or Join to leave a comment
Login Join