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Jackson 4 Outlet Individually Switched Powerboard with 1 Metre Lead $10 (Was $20) @ Woolworths


This Overload protected Power Board puts control at your fingertips with 4 individually switched outlets. Choose which appliances you want to be on, switching off the ones you aren't using to save on your power bill and in some cases extend the life of your equipment!
-4 Power Outlets
-Safety Overload Protection
-1 Metre Lead with Right Angle / Easy Pull Plug
-Individually switched sockets
-Handy Mounting Slots on the back
-Australian Business & Support
-Lifetime Warranty*
*See Jackson Power website for more information

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  • +20 votes

    Wish it was Jackson 5… but it's not.

  • Is this bad quality?

    • +12 votes

      Yeah. It's so bad, I plugged in my TV and my whole house blew up.

    • The click feels more spongy than a normal click. Other than that, I don't see much difference. Still working after a few years.

    • It's not great it's just ok. I found one open in WW once and upon trying the switches I knew I wouldn't be buying it. They obviously 'meet Australian standards' but they have that poor quality feel to them, like cheap/nasty bedside lamps. I learned my lesson years ago with a Kambrook powerboard that soon had several bits of broken plastic rattling around inside, one switch began melting, etc. With mains stuff saving only several dollars isn't worth the risk. I bought a 4 outlet switched HPM from Bunnings instead, waited for it to come on sale for a few dollars off. (Tradies use Clipsal and HPM.)

    • if you dont mind seeing a spark every time you flick a switch, it's terriffic

  • are these inferior to powerboards with surge protection?

    • This board only has overload protection, so it would not provide any protection against surges when compared to a surge protected board.

    • Cheap passive surge protection uses MOV's.

      Think of them as a resistor, with a set 'bypass' voltage.

      240v? It all just flows through.
      250v? It'll shed some power as heat.
      Lightning strike? It MIGHT blow out in time, to save stuff (not always).

      Biggest mistake people make with surge protection is leaving them in. MOV's wear out, and should be replaced every 3 years or so, even assuming no (owner identifiable) surges.

      Tldr; yes, even the lowest power rating surge protector is better than none. But the lower it is, the faster it becomes "just a power board".

      HPM make a 4 socket 175jule (very, very low; better than none) for $9 at bunnings.
      Not individual switched though.

      • What would you recommend around your house e.g. in lounge, in the modem location, in a home office, in kids bedrooms with lamps/tvs/chargers, etc?

        • These are my go-to for normal power boards.


          700Jule still isn't amazing, but really, if the equipment behind it is worth any real money, there should be a UPS for actual filtering.

          Like this:


          • @MasterScythe: Interesting - do you own any single strip shaped boards?

          • @MasterScythe: Weird if you look at the specs on that plugboss it says 350 Joules may be typo whilst desc says the 700?

            I was looking from JB yesterday and found XCD (made for JB brand) 4-outlet allegedly seemingly claimed 2k joule rating for 29$ will have to oggle tomorrow again to confirm more dets but I'm not holding my breath.

            But in the end I chose Belkin (29$ 4-outlet 535 joules) due to the 20k$ CEG (Connected Equipment Warranty) which might work or might not but at least I had a fight if it ends up that way. For more money Belkin offers 900 joule up to 2k on their "Pro" ones with higher CEG warranty but not sure about the finer details except I know you have to be prolific record keeper and small print reader with that CEG warranty (thus down with a fight if it comes to that…)

            Both XCD and Belkin have the indicators if protection has worn but dunno if it also shuts power if the protection wears out. Need to research more on people who actually have ever used the connected equipment warranty.

  • Good for the kitchen… plugging in blenders etc ad-hoc

  • No surge protection.

  • I'm using one extending my current power surge board not bad for $10 from last deal

  • would have been nice to have couple of USB Ports

    • So OzB'ers can complain that it's only 2.4A in total while asking if it has QC at the same time.

    • would be nicer if has wireless charging

    • If you want a switched outlets then you obviously want to turn things off to save power when not being used. But USB ports in powerboards are usually on all the time. So someone buying something like this would probably use a separate charger anyway so they can turn it off like everything else plugged into it.

      • I like switched outlets so I don't get sparks when plugging something in.

        • Ok. Well if something sparks when inserting it into the sockets, then by using a switched powerboard, you're merely transferring that sparking inside into the switch internals instead, which can cause excessive/premature wear/failure of the switches. It would actually be safer/better to have the socket contacts spark rather than the switch, because sparking creates carbon on metal contacts (either those inside the switch, or on the socket pins). And inserting/removing appliance plugs from the sockets scrapes off the build-up carbon from the contacts. Whereas you can't remove carbon from inside the switches.

          For example, my lounge room light switch build up carbon over the years, resulting in a poor connection, so when the light was turned on it would blink, and the switch would crackle and spark continuously which obviously produces heat. At first that sparking would eventually 'weld' a definite contact inside the switch. But later it would crackle continuously, not connect properly, causing heat. So the switch itself began to melt… and sometimes it would happen after the switch had been on for a while. So you turn the light on, go to another room or outside, and might come back to find plastic melting onto the carpet (or worse - keep adding heat and eventually things like the wood around most light switches can catch fire).

          Btw… If it's something like a fan heater, several times over the years I've seen these devices melt power points, and powerboard sockets, AND destroy switches. So if that's what's doing it, start it on the lowest heat and then increase the heat using it's own switch (rather than starting it on full blast). This is actually one of the reasons why I only buy HPM/Clipsal rather than save a couple of $ on lower quality products like this Jackson one.

          • @Faulty P xel: Thanks, that's interesting! I thought the starting I see when plugging into an "on" socket was due to the pins not yet all being engaged properly while they are being inserted, and thought that being and to fully insert it with the power of, then turn the power on, would avoid any sparking. Scary if that's not the case!

            • @kiitos: You're correct, it's the jump of electricity from the socket to the plug before being engaged.

              Exactly the same thing happens INSIDE a switch as the contact moves from off to on, but before it connects fully.

              • @MasterScythe: Thanks, that's what I was trying convey. That sparking makes carbon build up on the switch contact surfaces, which causes more sparking due to a poor connection, which coats the contacts with more carbon, and round you go.

                While it's obviously not 240V, I once bought a car with electric windows. Not one worked so I hoped it was just a fuse. Arrived, had a look, nope. So I had to drive it a few hundred km home with the windows up. Got it home, started tracing the fault on door 1… Earth ok, voltage into the switch present, but zero out… and no closed circuit/contacts at any time. Must be the switch itself… um… switchES…!? Can't be. The odds of EVERY switch being faulty at the same time = 0!

                So I took switch #1 apart and cleaned the contacts of carbon. Switch now works. Reassembled switch but could tell taking it apart when the carbon built up again would break it. So I bought some CRC electrical contact cleaner, unplugged each switch, and drowned each one with cleaner while rocking it on/off a few dozen times… and the amount of carbon that poured out was halfway up my arm.

  • I would recommend buying belkin power board if you are connecting it to expensive devices.

    8 sockets with 2 usb for approx $44

    Amazon, bunnings, officeworks and etc

  • How is the quality on Chevron 6 Outlet Powerboard 1m 10amps each for $5 at Woolworths?

  • Pity that this doesn't have surge protection. That's what you really need for delicate equipment.

  • I had one of these. All sockets were extremely tight. Plugging them in and out, the pins bent because that's how much force was needed.

    I ended up replacing the board with an Arlec. Much better fit.

  • Now days time to buy smart power board.
    Is any one know any cheaper smart power board

  • does woolworths still have rain check? one staff told me they don't do that anymore.