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Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer $307.76 Delivered @ 3D Printers Online

200
tech5

I've been looking for beginner 3D printer and it seemed like a decent price for AU stock.
I suppose it has been cheaper in the past.

Found the coupon code online and seems to give extra 5% off

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Comments

  • +3

    Good price for what is considered one of the BEST entry-mid level printer. This thing is a workhorse!

    It's been as low as $288 (with ebay plus codes), but generally anything under $310 is decent for the V2 updated version.

    Also have a look around for a deal on a Voxelab Aquila X2, which is essentially an exact clone of the E3V2. It can be a bit cheaper.

    • Thanks for the suggestions :) I will look at those as well.

      Also any recommendations for materials to get started with. PLA seemed to be the consensus online for non-outdoor items.

      • +5

        I have had an Ender 3 V2 since release and am exclusively using eSun filament these days. Their PLA+ prints so easy, is pretty durable if you design things correctly and print appropriately. They also have a great selection of colours. I printed a little bit of their PETG too but not enough to have fully dialed in my settings.

        I purchase from http://cubictech.com.au/.

        Reasonably price and if your order is $150 or more you get free shipping.

      • +3

        I've been using Voxelab PLA+ from Amazon. I read somewhere it's rebadged eSun pla+ (do your own research). It's cheap, and I've found it really easy to print with. Plus free shipping with Prime!

        • What state are you in? That is the same price as legit esun PLA+ from a local supplier here in Perth… so not really cheap.

          • @perf: I'm in NSW. If it's not cheap, show me a better deal for reliable filament and I'll reward you with an upvote :)

            • +1

              @damfrog: Shipping is fixed at around $7 but free over $150. And voxelab/flash is definitely not a esun rebrand. Possibly a sunlu

              https://www.cubictech.com.au/products/pla-filament-1-75

              • @Dezeption: You're right. I did a bit of a google and couldn't find any info on my rebadge assertion.

                Looks like the cubictech guys are pretty well stocked. $7 shipping is pretty reasonable. I can't see myself adding $150 worth of filament to my already overflowing collection…. although… those matte ones look pretty cool…ARGH!

  • +3

    Have fun…

    Mine is running nearly all the time…

    • +2

      Very curious to know what JV is printing?

      • +5

        20,000 league of legends figurines. He plans to dump them at sea

      • +4

        bold prints

      • +6

        Usually nonsense

      • +1

        High resolution figurines. It's all in the fine print for JV.

    • Why? Did you print some legs for it?

  • +14

    Use this code for $20 off
    HELLO20

    Brings the price down to $303.96

  • +1

    Thanks Op!

  • +1

    If you get one of these, make sure you pickup a metal extruder and yellow high tension springs, and put them straight on when you build it. The plastic extruder supplied will almost certainly break on you eventually, and the higher tension springs will keep you from needing to re-level your bed as often.

    Probably worth upgrading to a PTFE Bowden tube and higher quality couplings (normally supplied together as a kit) at the same time as well.

    Any other upgrades I'd recommend holding off on. Much like working on a car, it's best to upgrade or replace the other bits one at a time to see the performance difference and to get things dialled in.

    • +2

      All bowden tubes are made of PTFE. I think you may mean upgrading to a higher quality PTFE tube such as Capricorn XS or similar. If anyone is looking to support an excellent ebay seller, sayer_cnc has decently priced items. Recently bought a couple items after some back and forth communication with them, and they're very helpful and willing to answer almost any questions you have. Being somewhat of a beginner myself I had some fairly simple questions.
      This kit comes with capricorn tubing and fittings to go with it:
      https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/184892231181?hash=item2b0c6f8e0d...

      • There's also FEP tube thats used on Pursa mmu gear tho shouldn't really be considered a bowden set up but ppl still do

      • -1

        Why do I need this though?

        • +2

          I never said you do and you don't need it. Most people will be fine with the stock PTFE tube, but some people have found that their print quality improved after upgrading. You would only really need to get it if your PTFE tube was severely degraded, or you wanted to print at slightly higher temps, although I wouldn't feel comfortable printing at anything above 260 degrees with or without an upgraded PTFE tube.

          If you wanted to go high temp for say nylon or something, then an all metal hotend or bimetal heatbreak would be a more suitable option.

          I do also agree that the extruder doesn't need an upgrade straight away, and I would only consider one if I was chasing higher print quality (however marginal) or had issues with my extruder skipping. I myself am getting a BMG clone, merely because I'm addicted to modifying things. I've only had my printer for a few months now and my stock extruder doesn't seem to have any problems, although it might vary slightly in quality since it is a Voxelab Aquila (ender 3 clone).

          TBH I think it's best for most people to leave their printer stock and upgrade things as they see fit later down the track, once they've become more familiar with their printer and its needs, quirks, and shortcomings. I assume you know all this but this is more for others than for you, almighty JV

          • +1

            @Traffic Cones:

            I assume you know all this

            Nope, I got mine recently. I've only upgraded the springs.

            • +1

              @jv: Ah okay, well welcome to the world of 3d printing. Springs are a good first upgrade, makes leveling the bed a little bit nicer. Also just to clarify, that last sentence wasn't meant to be a jab at you :) just thought you'd have had your printer for a while since you said yours was running all the time.

              • +1

                @Traffic Cones:

                since you said yours was running all the time.

                Once i worked out how not to make spaghetti, the kids and I are fighting over who gets to print something next, and of course, they aren't the fastest things in the world…

                • @jv: Tip to all: Look into running Klipper on a Raspberry Pi and using that as the brains of your printer.

                  Basically*… add a Raspberry Pi (I believe 3B+ and up is recommended) over serial connection to your printer's mainboard, install Klipper** - 3D printing "brain" software - on the Pi to do all the computations that the printer mainboard used to do, thereby freeing up the printer mainboard where it can perform the sole task of controlling the printer's stepper motors at a much higher speed and quality.

                  *This "basically" may blow up.
                  **I recommend simplifying the install of Klipper by starting with a premade Pi image of; Raspberry Pi OS Lite + Klipper + a flavour of Klipper UI. Choose between Fluidd or Mainsail (I use Fluidd, though am not sure of the difference to Mainsail - I simply came across Fluidd first).

                  Disclaimer: I run Fluidd + Klipper on my Creality CR-10 Pro V2 (which is a less "popular" 3D printer, though still has heaps of support material out there) and not an Ender 3 (V2).

        • It's good if you want to start printing PETG (that said, I only got my first roll of PETG yesterday and haven't tested it yet) as the temperature resistance of the Capicorn tube is higher.

          The eSun PETG i got shows a print temperature of 240~255℃ which I think is at the limit of the white PTFE tube that comes stock with the printer, whereas the Capricorn's chart shows that they are okay up to 250.

          Edit: Creality's Ender 3 page says the stock tube's limit is 240℃.

    • I just changed the springs on mine, and everything prints fine. Why change the extruder if it works?

      • +1

        It's likely to break (possibly mid-print and fail it) and replacing it now before you get started avoids that headache later on for a bit of effort now. Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

        • +1

          It's likely to break

          How likely though?

          Do they all break in a month or two? or just a few of them after a year or two??

          I'd rather not replace something that is working perfectly fine.

          • +1

            @jv: smthing I agree with JV.. that's a rare!

          • @jv: Wouldn't be able to tell you failure rate and time to failure but it's non-zero and posts come up from time to time on Ender 3 communities (fb group/subreddit). It's generally recommended because either the arm itself snaps because it's plastic or the filament guide wears down/through.

            I didn't say you have to change it, but just the general reasoning behind it (as you asked). It is a known weak point on the Ender 3 and can break. You can do what you want mate, idc.

          • @jv: It you're scared, just print a spare one

      • From my reddit trawling it seems to be a matter of when, not if. Whether it fails or just enough to affect print quality.

  • +2

    Goddammit, you people cost me a fortune!

    • +1

      Wait till you start printing and next minute you want another 1….5….20 and next thing you know, your garage is a printer farm…

  • Can anyone link me to these magical yellow springs?

    • +1

      https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/184968255790?hash=item2b10f7992e...

      There are cheaper options, but this seller offers amazing service/support. I'm sure quality wise any option you find will be pretty much the same

      • Great. Thanks!

      • I haven't got the printer as of yet but what size do you need for this model 20 or 25mm?

      • Thank you. I'm new to 3D printing, Can anyone give a link to these metal extruders that being discussed above?
        I'm sorry for the noob question but what kind of filament should I start with?

        • +1

          Here's one of the metal ones: Ebay Link

          Unless they're talking about the Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder which IMO is overkill for a beginner.

          I only started a month ago but spent a while researching and easiest is PLA / PLA+. The printer itself comes with a ~200g spool of white PLA you can test with and after that you'll need to get your own. I've had the best results printing with eSun PLA+ @ 205 C nozzle and 65 C bed.

    • Can also get the equivalent at Bunnings.

      • -1

        Dan won't let us go to Bunnings though…

    • +1

      I got 20 of them for $10 on Amazon and got them within 2 days…

      Now to decide what to do with the other 16….

  • Anyone know of a similar deal… Saw it on Kogan but delivery Feb 2022.

  • +1

    Back in stock, just ordered. Cheers OP

  • Seems to be out of stock, anyone know anywhere else offering a deal on this this printer?

    • Set reminder for Ender 3 deals. They are likely to be on sale once a month.

    • +1

      If you're still looking I purchased this one yesterday, and the HELLO20 code mentioned earlier still works too, so was $304

      • thanks mate!

  • +2

    Damn I just got one approx. a month ago for around $360 - it's a great printer but recommend die cut bed springs, capricorn tubes and extra 0.4mm nozzles before starting - also print a filament guide, a filament cleaner and some shock absorbing legs for the printer (after the obligatory 3DBenchy)

  • What filament should I use? just bought one and wanna learn

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