Most Affordable Car Overall to Buy Used

LCheapskateNotFrugal on 10/11/2021 - 12:31

Hi all.

Long time lurker, first time poster here.

My current car is just about dead. As a result of this I am in the market for purchasing another car.

What suggestions would you have for a car that would be the cheapest to own overall? Taking into account purchase price, registration, insurance (3rd party only), servicing (by a mechanic as I live in an apartment), fuel, etc. I live close to the city in Perth so a lot of my journeys are close through the city to get to and from Uni and work with a lot of time in stop start traffic. I do also visit my family once a month or so who are a two hour drive down the highway. Any recommendations for what to look for and what to avoid would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Automotive Car

Comments

  • shaybisc on 10/11/2021 - 17:25
    +1

    Bad time to buy a used car if these stories I keep seeing on tv about 2 year old cars selling for new car prices are true. US reports - is it the same here?

    • Tafe on 11/11/2021 - 08:28

      Depends which car, but mostly yes it is the same.

    • bakemon0 on 11/11/2021 - 08:30

      yes, even older than 2 years are still skyrocketing, but it has calmed down a bit the past month but still not back to before

    • Ade99 on 11/11/2021 - 09:56

      even older than 2 years, especially if the KM's are right!

    • Brumby92 on 11/11/2021 - 13:04

      Prices have definitely increased. I got my corolla for $3500 in 2018. Just had a look on CarSales and the same year and model is going for $6000. Yikes!

  • [Deactivated] on 10/11/2021 - 21:09
    -5

    Have seen people driving $2-3k worth car and face flames coming out of bonnet couple of times.

    Like the others suggest, I'd say $7k is the line you should draw for your own safety.

    • brendanm on 10/11/2021 - 21:37
      +4

      face flames coming out of bonnet couple of times.

      Doubt.png

      • [Deactivated] on 10/11/2021 - 22:42

        It was quite funny to see that the driver took off his t-shirt and attemepted to put out the fire with it.

        • Euphemistic on 11/11/2021 - 05:51

          That’s once.

          Quite a few news stories about current model vehicles bursting into flames over the last few years too.

  • Hardlyworkin on 10/11/2021 - 22:29

    Something reliable with hail damage? Buy cheap without expectation of resale value.

  • No ONE on 10/11/2021 - 22:52
    -5

    Long time lurker, first time poster here

    Also:

    Member Since
    10 hours 28 min ago

    Long time lurker first time poster would already have account long time ago.

    • witheredcouch on 11/11/2021 - 09:42
      +4

      Why would a lurker with no intention to comment or post have an account? I browsed for years before I made an account, as you still have full access to the site essentially, and I didn't at the time have a desire to comment.

      • unwashed00 on 12/11/2021 - 15:46

        To upvote or downvote, obviously

  • TheBird on 11/11/2021 - 01:24

    Aaah mate, there's one down the road from me… in the bush… burnt out wreck. Touch of paint and some tyres and she'll be good to go maaaate! C'mon mate, I'll give you a good price!

  • aimpacc on 11/11/2021 - 03:12
    +2

    Are you by any chance an investment analyst at Westpac? Then I got the right car for you…

  • batfastard on 11/11/2021 - 07:10

    Hayabusa

    You know it makes sense.

    • aussieprepper on 11/11/2021 - 09:29

      Hayabusa + smart car.

    • Speckled Jim on 17/11/2021 - 12:14

      H2

      You know it makes 'busa mince.

  • Mintee on 11/11/2021 - 09:13
    +3

    Take a look at this Aussie guy - https://www.youtube.com/c/ReDriven

    He reviews Used Cars only…. which is interesting and gives perceptive on how they hold up, maintenance and issues. - It may help

  • surg3on on 11/11/2021 - 09:47
    +3

    Stop start traffic. You need a hybrid Toyota model. If you plan on keeping it for any reasonable amount of k/ms it will save you considerable money. Especially if fuel prices stay $1.60+

    • Ade99 on 11/11/2021 - 09:57

      long road trips would lean against an EV as the battery never gets recharged from repeated braking……

      • Dogsrule on 11/11/2021 - 10:19

        It really doesn't matter with Toyota hybrids, they still get exceptional highway fuel economy relative to other cars due to the Atkinson cycle engine and eCVT. My Prius did 4.5L/100km on the Newcastle-Sydney M1 @115km/h over 340,000km. Our RAV4 hybrid does 5.5L/100km on the same route and that's a 1.75T AWD SUV shaped like a brick.

        • brendanm on 12/11/2021 - 17:30

          My Prius did 4.5L/100km on the Newcastle-Sydney M1

          My Passat does less than that on the highway.

          • Dogsrule on 12/11/2021 - 19:45

            @brendanm: Not trying to say they can beat a similarly sized diesel on the highway, but you can’t argue that 4.5L/100km on the highway is pretty good for a petrol engine, and certainly isn’t an argument against buying a hybrid. Also keep in mind that’s an 11yo 3rd gen Prius, the current 4th gen Prius and related Corolla hybrid sedan gets closer to 4L/100km.

            If you do purely highway driving, a diesel might be the better option. If you do any real city driving as well, the hybrid is the best compromise, not even counting the amazing reliability and lack of repairs and maintenance they offer.

          • Munki Kundi on 13/11/2021 - 07:53

            @brendanm: Same here…agree

      • surg3on on 11/11/2021 - 15:27
        +1

        OP literally states most of his driving is in stop-start traffic….

    • Hangryuman on 11/11/2021 - 13:27

      'Stop start traffic' - after renting a Seat Leon in Germany with stop-and-go cruise control I really wanted that - set the cruise control to 220kph and not touch the accelerator through high-speed down to stopped at construction roadworks - it would auto-moveoff after stopped when the vehicle ahead moved

      but AFAIK that only comes with more expensive cars like BMW, Merc, Audi (even the latest Toyota's 'All Speed' cruise control I think you need to press the accelerator to start off again after a stop) and I don't want to pay that money for something that sits in my garage 99.5% of the time.

  • OzHunterNSW on 11/11/2021 - 10:14

    Shoes… you possibly have no parking. You live close to the city, so why not just walk it. Or, alternatively, buy an electric scooter.

    • grammarstickler on 11/11/2021 - 12:02

      Username checks out.

      OP is in Perth. Plenty of parking and a car is pretty much a necessity.

      • CheapskateNotFrugal on 11/11/2021 - 12:48
        +3

        Unfortunately a car is definitely a necessity here. We wouldn't have become the longest city in the world without them!

  • Boioioioi on 11/11/2021 - 10:52
    -1

    I had 2 mitsubishi mirages over the last while. Great cars. Got the second one for 5.3k with 60,000km on it. They have a 5 star ancap rating and great fuel economy. It'd get about 5.4L/100km. It was a manual one. Has nice to have features like bluetooth too. Services only every 15,000km, and the service itself was cheap as chips. Tiny engine so a 6L oil thing can do you for 2 services.

  • starburstyellow on 11/11/2021 - 10:53

    More than you can afford pal, Ferrari!

  • md333 on 11/11/2021 - 11:52

    Cheapest I had was a suzuki swift, cost $1000, sold it after about 3 years for $500, did about 6L/100km. I think $100 for a 2nd hand radiator at some point. Cost me under 10c/km including purchase/rego/servicing fuel. But this was late last century when fuel was under $1 per L. Heavily dependent on being able to service/repair it yourself.
    I think considerable luck and possibly some skill involved in finding a reliable car at that price point.
    Also once bought a $300 Datsun 120Y when there were no hire cars available. Only had 3 shock absorbs left but still did the job. Worked out more expensive than anticipated because we thought we could get away with the grace period on the expired rego, but it turns out that isn't a thing in Tasmania, and we got pulled up (by a bicycle cop!) within hours of purchase.

    • Hangryuman on 11/11/2021 - 13:21
      +1

      ah Suzi-Q - the closest thing to motorbike fun on 4 wheels - I loved my 1985 Suzi Swift GC - totally reliable - I would have driven that around Australia without a second thought - and would still have it if a doctor hadn't told me to change to automatic to stop my limping from old ankle fracture after using the clutch pedal.

    • Speckled Jim on 17/11/2021 - 10:16

      Fella I worked with a while back had a 1996 GA Swift. Said it was the only car he could fit into and operate comfortably.
      He was 180cm tall and weighed 185kg.

  • nephilim on 11/11/2021 - 12:41

    Prius?
    Heard many good stories of them doing up to 300k-350k before hybrid system gives up, which is insane for a 10 year old hatchback.

    But the modern ones from reviews are dated and kinda pointless, as no longer have better tech then the others in the toyota range.

  • Hangryuman on 11/11/2021 - 13:18
    +3

    'buy the cheapest car your ego can afford'

    if your ego needs to buy things you don't need, with money you don't have, to impress people you don't like, then …

    the most expensive part of a used car is shiny paint

    the best value 2 cars I ever bought both had crappy paint, but newly reconditioned engines and drive train - for $500 and $300

    both ran perfectly for a year or two with no maintenance costs before I sold them for what I paid for them.

    If you're a dangerous inattentive screen-thumbing driver, then probly go for a newer car with airbags to save your life when you kill someone else

    if you're a safe driver, cheap and reliable is my tip.

    • nigel deborah on 11/11/2021 - 17:22
      +4

      Being a safe driver lowers your risk, but it's always possible to be hit by some moron in an unavoidable way. If you can afford it, I would always fork out the extra few thousand that it costs to get some proper safety features. A 3k hatchback from 2004 might have a couple airbags and that's it, 7k hatchback from 2013 and you get the works, front/side/knee bags, ESC, ABS, improved crumple zones etc. A decade worth of safety improvements just for a few grand, could save your life.

      Not to mention likely improved handling and reduced risk of faults which could impact safety.

      • Hangryuman on 12/11/2021 - 17:53

        agree a big car with all the airbags might be safest in an unexpected impact

        but my perspective as a safe driver is I'd prefer to avoid an accident - as an ex-motorbike rider I assume everyone else on the road is trying to kill me, and it's my job to avoid that.

        watching car crash TV last night I saw a dangerous overtaking driver risking a headon collision at speed - the not-at-fault driver had nowhere to go except down the side incline, whereupon it flipped and rolled several times

        I guessed why - the inexperienced driver hit the brakes with one wheel on the bitumen and one wheel on the gravel, causing it to slide sideways, whereupon the forward momentum flipped the high-centre-of-gravity SUV into a multiple sideways roll

        from my experience (knowing that killed a childhood schoolmate of mine) I would have not touched the brakes in that situation - and wouldn't be driving a high-centre-of-gravity SUV that was more likely to roll

        today in CostCo carpark walking back to my parked 1991 Honda Civic I noted it looked significantly lower than every other car nearby - 'like a sports car' - lower CG less likely to roll in my book.

        so yeah, from my perspective the best way to survive an accident - is to avoid having one.

      • Hangryuman on 13/11/2021 - 15:54

        '7k hatchback from 2013 and you get the works, front/side/knee bags, ESC, ABS, improved crumple zones etc. A decade worth of safety improvements just for a few grand, could save your life.'

        OK now I'm intrigued - pray tell what brand/módel you'd recommend that fits this description ?

        • nigel deborah on 14/11/2021 - 08:23

          Not sure what I'd recommend, there's plenty of different models. COVID pricing might have some of them over 7k, not sure.

          What I was referring to in the comment was a 2013 suzuki swift sport a family member bought at the beginning of the year for $6800.

          Granted a lightweight car is not as safe as something heavier, but large cars are going to be a lot more expensive (not just a few k).

          • Euphemistic on 14/11/2021 - 13:34

            @nigel deborah:

            Granted a lightweight car is not as safe as something heavier

            While this is most likely true in an actual crash and lighter weight vehicle should be able to stop/steer better than a heavy one so there is a reduced risk of getting in a crash.

  • Misha Bakunin on 11/11/2021 - 14:43

    A touch off topic but related, what do you think is the most affordable / reliable second hand BMW?

    • [Deactivated] on 11/11/2021 - 16:12
      +4

      Reliable and Second Hand BMW are oxymorons
      Don't buy anything South African Made
      The maintainence will be more than the cost of the car in any case

      • Misha Bakunin on 11/11/2021 - 22:39

        Thanks. Since when have the been made in South Africa? I might just avoid a BMW, despite the fact I have wanted one for years. My honda is still holding up ok for now anyway.

      • forged on 13/11/2021 - 13:25

        Where the car is assembled is almost irrelevant. Manufacturing quality is much more about what the manufacturer wants and is willing to pay for. Take, for example, the excellent quality of Chinese-made goods from Apple or DJI, compared to some of the rubbish you can buy from AliExpress.

        BMW's made in South Africa aren't discernibly different to those made in Germany, the US, or anywhere else. Most parts were manufactured in Europe anyway, and imported to South Africa for final assembly.

        Some BMW models are known for being unreliable lemons (N46, N47, N63 engines anyone?), but overall they are pretty average when it comes to reliability. Just do a bit of research and make sure not to waste your money on a bad model of car.

        Yes, maintenance can often be expensive. If you buy an under maintained 20 year old BMW, I wouldn't be surprised if maintenance costs quickly exceeded cost of the car. There's a reason that the resale value of old BMW's falls off a cliff.

    • Commander Shepard on 11/11/2021 - 23:34
      +1

      If E30s were still cheap I would suggest that.

      Apparently BMW really improved the reliability in the F30 Series. Getting one of those with good history could work out.

      But honestly unless your an enthusiast and can move a wrench. Best to avoid an aging euro car.

    • brendanm on 12/11/2021 - 17:50

      E30

    • Hangryuman on 12/11/2021 - 18:02

      'the most affordable / reliable second hand BMW?'

      lol - I've seen mention that the most affordable BMW 7 series is one a couple of years old as their values tank so rapidly it's amazing - the most reliable way to lose $100K fast !

      https://www.autotrader.com/car-news/its-amazing-how-fast-use…

      https://www.hotcars.com/depreciation-has-made-buying-a-sixth…

      for some entertainment - check out Scotty - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40fKEBwXQ7k

      or maybe this guy - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qewXbAa8On0

      steer clear - https://youtu.be/wqOKnWXYZQI?t=266

      but wait there's more ! - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYNF0BOh0T4

    • forged on 12/11/2021 - 19:32
      +1

      Depends on your budget.
      The B48/B58 engines have proven very reliable (a slightly revised B58 is even used in the Toyota Supra!), but they have only been around from 2016, so cars with them will be expensive.

      If you’re on a budget, I’d go for something with a late production N52 engine - very reliable naturally aspirated engine. 2010-2011 325i would be very solid.

      2012-2015 3-series used the N20 and N55 engines. Early N20 is prone to timing chain problems, best to avoid. N55 is fairly reliable, but not as good as the B48/B58.

      If you’re going to get the car dealer serviced, I wouldn’t get a BMW older than a few years at all. Will bleed your wallet dry - parts costs aren’t too bad, but there’s often a lot of extra labour involved versus something like a Honda.

  • CheeseBeans on 11/11/2021 - 17:55
    +1

    Toyota corolla. You can't go wrong, provided it's running and registered

  • Brianqpr on 11/11/2021 - 19:00
    +2

    Bought a 2011 Mazda 3 as a second car last year and have been very happy with it.

  • gtech on 11/11/2021 - 19:14

    NRMA used to have a site where it would give you the total ownership costs for the most popular new car models in Aust

  • jaffar on 11/11/2021 - 21:45
    +1

    Some real world pricing breakdown to run a 'cheap car' in WA:
    Depreciation: $0 (cheap car - $2,200 Camry)
    Rego + LMI: $750 @ 1,300kg
    Insurance (Comprehensive): $650
    Fuel (240KM per week, 12480KM total @ $1.50 @ 8.5L/100KM): $1,600
    Servicing: DIY estimate this year $450. (Battery $200, approx 2 oil/filter changes @$25 each, brake pads $100, $40 wipers, some rando fluids)
    Total annual running cost: $3,450
    Creature comforts you'll probably want if you go for an older car: BT stereo - $170, car care products $50, dash cam $100

    Your goal now would be to shave these costs off. E.g. for rego you could find a car with long rego attached (keep in mind a 1,000kg Getz still costs $700 per year in rego and LMI - just $50 less than a 1,300kg car). Insurance - check prices for both comprehensive and 3rd party - sometimes there's barely any difference. Fuel - the less you drive the less your real world savings will be in a more fuel efficient car - e.g. for my KMs if I had a car that used 6.5L/100 I would be paying $1200 per year - a $400 saving but if you were driving just 5,000KM per year than it would be a more modest saving. Servicing - apart from the annual oil change there are going to be some surprises in an older car e.g. new set of tyres or a new battery. Overall, you're still looking at $2-3k annual cost without considering the car (safety, condition, features, etc) nor creature comforts (dash cam is a must but a stereo would be nice..). So cheapest at this point would be a $1000 beaten up paint stripped manual 3d Echo…but if safety and perhaps some creature comforts are wanted you'd definitely have to go higher.

  • Longtimescroller on 11/11/2021 - 23:14
    +2

    Toyota Yaris 1.3L. Unbreakable and cheap on fuel.

    Or a Skoda Yeti 2.0L Diesel. Who searches for a skoda? Pretty much a golf with a different badge.

    • Hahuh on 12/11/2021 - 14:50
      +1

      Man the Yaris is a pos boring thing to drive but bit does it get good fuel economy. I average around 550Ks per tank.

  • paradise on 12/11/2021 - 02:22
    +1

    a push (electric if you must) bike. your medical bills will also benefit (exception of accidents)

  • Yaren24 on 12/11/2021 - 08:30
    +2

    Lexus IS250?

    • 11hobos11 on 13/11/2021 - 10:12

      Apart from the poor fuel economy, yeah they're really good value. Mostly toyota parts, all the bells and whistles, decent on the safety front too. Look for a sports luxury and get the radar cruise too. Also not sure why but they still seem to be decently priced.

  • 1tightwad on 12/11/2021 - 08:44

    We've had a 2008 4 door Yaris 1.5ltr hatch for about 8 years now. It's the YRS with side airbags but no stability control.
    It amazes me how little it has cost to keep on the road.
    We get the oil changed once a year.
    In that time we've replaced the battery, new front tyres, coolant and brake fluid changed.
    Purchased it second hand with 40,000km and it now has around 140,000km.
    Rear tyres still have plenty of tread but are getting a bit old so will need to change them soon.
    I guess it being such a light little car things just don't wear out all that quickly.
    We do a bit of highway diving, it's fine but not amazing. Awesome in the city though.

    • Commander Shepard on 12/11/2021 - 09:12

      Yep. MX5s are similar. The cars are so light that they just don't go through pads/tyres as fast as the heavy lumps do. Even with spirited driving.

      I have more trouble with the tyres deteriorating before the tread runs out.

  • Zachary on 12/11/2021 - 10:02

    Just build your own car if you want it on the cheap and can't find anyone selling theirs for less than $1000. Might take a while to get the parts and designing it but it'd be like building a hot rod…or in this case a rat rod since you're doing it on the cheap…

  • Typical16-bitEnjoyer on 12/11/2021 - 10:11

    Make sure you check under the bonut for any issues.

  • SoapyWooder on 12/11/2021 - 10:17
    +1

    $7k,10 yo manual toyota / honda / mazda, check all fluids, body, suspension, electronics, test drive, & should be good for another 10yr+

  • Fobsessive on 12/11/2021 - 11:25

    Honda Accord Euro. Needs premium 95 though.

  • Zondor on 12/11/2021 - 12:25

    Manual Kia Rio

  • truebunny on 12/11/2021 - 12:37

    Since used camry prices have shot up, you can also look at Toyota Aurion. Same car a bit more powerful with v6

  • Drakesy on 12/11/2021 - 13:23

    Definitely not an Audi Q7

    Kia Sportage on the other hand 7 years of ownership
    Next to zero running costs
    Just had to change a timing belt.

  • dny on 12/11/2021 - 13:39
    -1

    Mercedes A200 AMG

  • Hahuh on 12/11/2021 - 14:47

    Cheapest? Kia picanto, MG whatever the hatch is called.

  • killbill on 12/11/2021 - 14:56

    Toyota Aurion

  • pharkurnell on 12/11/2021 - 20:01

    Mazda 3
    Ex mistake had one, was cheap to run round in

  • spammingb on 13/11/2021 - 02:54

    No love for the Lexus IS250?

    15k can get you a pretty decent one in excellent condition. Low servicing and maintenance cost, all Toyota parts. Very modern look and features considering it's age. Nice premium build too. It's not going to have any problems, drive it to 200kms no problem

    • 11hobos11 on 13/11/2021 - 10:14

      Keep in mind its not great on fuel and recommended fuel is 95.

      • spammingb on 13/11/2021 - 17:09

        It'll run completely fine on 91. Especially for a 15k car there's no need to use 95 lol. If it was brand new then sure

        Agree fuel is not as great as some modern cars, but it makes up the cost in low servicing and maintenance and no dramas

    • forged on 13/11/2021 - 13:36

      Agree on the quality, reliability, and features, and they're great to drive too. Great value car IMO.

      I personally couldn't stomach the interior, I think it's hideous, lol. Otherwise I'd have bought one.

      • spammingb on 13/11/2021 - 17:04

        Don't get the 'luxury' models of the car, they come with really dated looking wood trimmings. If you get the 'prestige' version of the car (which is actually one of the lower specs), it looks much cleaner and modern. Especially if you get the black/grey.

  • skadiven on 13/11/2021 - 12:35
    +1

    Volvo S60, S40, V60, V40 with the D5 - solid engines. Can be had for 10k or less for 10yo models, just don't get the Haldex AWD version because it'll probably be costly to service.

  • love2buy on 13/11/2021 - 17:05
    +1

    What ever comes up on gumtree search sorted by price

  • snackpacket on 13/11/2021 - 17:11

    The diesel Ford Fiesta is very cheap to run. Around $40-50 to fill up, gets you 700-800KM. Source: I bought one in 2013. Average fuel per 100km over life of car is 4.9L. Cheap to insure and service etc. too, and a diesel engine should live a long time if taken care of.

    • Euphemistic on 13/11/2021 - 21:22

      Will cost a little extra in servicing over a petrol car.

  • nightmarez3k on 13/11/2021 - 21:56

    Get an escooter. PT to parents every 2 months or get uber. Stay the weekend.

    Works out way cheaper.

    Car ownership so overrated. Have 2 cars just killing me in costs.

    Cut one insurance to third party fire and theft bc WFH.

    Gonna sell it next year when I semi-retire @41.

  • nubzy on 14/11/2021 - 10:10

    Diesel C5, 308 or 508

Login or Join to leave a comment
Login Join