• expired

Voltx 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery LiFePO4 $375.20 (RRP $469) Delivered @ HomeWork&Play via Amazon AU

520
This post contains affiliate links. OzBargain might earn commissions when you click through and make purchases. Please see this page for more information.

Not the best battery in the market but for the price it’s decent which comes with 3 year warranty.

Copied from Voltx website :

SPECIFICATIONS

Nominal Capacity: 100Ah
Usable Capacity: 100Ah
Nominal Voltage: 12.8V
Energy: 1280Wh
Charge Voltage: 14.2-14.6V
Discharge Cut-off Voltage: 10V
Charge Method: CC/CV
Charger: 14.6V 20A
Standard Charge Current: 50A
Max Charge Current: 50A
Standard Disharge Current: 50A
Max Continues Discharge Current: 50A
Max Discharge Current 5 sec: 100A
Life Cycle: Approx. 2000 Cycles
Working Temperature Range: Charge: 0°C to 45°C
Discharge: -20°C to 50°C
Storage Temperature: -10°C to 50°C
Battery Cells: Prismatic
Bolt Type: Hexagon
Bolt Material: Iron nickel-plated
Series Connection: No
Parallel Connection: No
Warranty: 3 years
DIMENSIONS & WEIGHT

Bolt Terminal Size (Length): M8 x 12mm
Bolt Terminal Perimeter: 25.12mm
Dimensions: 306(L) x 169(W) x 215(H)mm
Weight: 14.2kgs

Get quality power at an affordable price. The VoltX 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery LiFEPO4 provides real capacity and unrivalled efficiency in a compact, lightweight form. Delivering top-notch performance that all VoltX batteries are known for, this lithium battery is great for both camping days and as backup power in case of power outages.

VoltX lithium batteries are all supported by prismatic cells coupled with a built-in Battery Management System. Why is this important? Aside from maintenance-free usage, their thin profile allows for a battery that is significantly smaller than conventional power packs, which is advantageous in any outdoor or RV setting.

Smaller doesn't mean weaker when it comes to VoltX, though. All of our batteries boast a long lifespan and impressive cycles. This particular 12V 100Ah lithium battery lasts for up to 7 years with 2,000 cycles. It's a practical choice for any outdoor lover, plus the array of advanced features including a new and improved design adds to its already excellent form.

Bask in the beauty of the outdoors while enjoying maximum comfort. Experience the VoltX quality now and power up wherever your adventure takes you!

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

Related Stores

Amazon AU
Amazon AU
Marketplace
Outbax
Outbax

closed Comments

  • +1

    Only if i could figure out a way to use it on my electric bicycles. Tiny 10ah replacement battery costs double this price.

    • +2

      11.5 kg tho

      • +7

        Good for cardio exercise.

    • +5

      When comparing Ah the voltage needs to be the same.

      • +4

        To compare different batteries, compare energy (power x hours). Power = voltage x current.

        They already list this to be 1280Wh so that's the number you want to compare.

        In case a battery doesn't list the Wh (or kWh) we can work it out. For this battery, V = 12.8, I: 100A (can sustain this for an hour)

        So P = 12.8 x 100 = 1280 Wh (or 1.28 kWh).

        • Yeah but usually the voltage needs to be the same for different applications

        • The voltage isn't constant though, it drops as the battery is used. So you can't just multiply it out like that.

          • +2

            @trapper: Not really for LiFePO4. It'll hold voltage pretty constantly down to about 10% (edit: excluding dodgy battery companies here)

            • @beatsntoons: Not 100% true. It will still hold until ~10%. You'll just get there faster. Especially if internal cells are mismatched and BMS is bad.

    • +2

      but your ebike would be 36v or more so times the 10 by 3

      • 11.5×3= 34.5 kg. Still doable as my bike can carry 120kg and i am 84kg :-)

        • +5

          Your bike's ability to carry 120kg has made you forget money exists :/

        • At this stage, you should prob just build yourself a quad

      • +1

        I have to put in a warning, seen too many people kill their battery internal BMS. Cheap LifePo4 with cheap internal BMS cannot run batteries in parallel. Best to ask seller, they will tell you honestly most of the time

    • put it in backpack

    • Your electric bike is most probably 36 or 48V.

      You'll need 3-4 of these in series to get 36-48V respectively.

      Unlikely going to work unless you build it yourself.

      • I know. Was just sharing my unrealised dreams i guess. Maybe one day it will come true

        • +1

          Like a bike powered by a mini fusion reactor?

      • Or a buckboost!

        • +1

          that's a huge boost, the buckboost will most probably cost more than the battery
          hahaha

  • +7

    Seen some good reviews on this one. It apparently discharges it’s full rated capacity (unlike some dodgy brands cough itechworld cough).

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGrgYqF_PUQ

    Just be aware that the continuous discharge rating is 50A, so don’t pull more than about 600W from it.

    • +2

      Yep, people have to realise not use their 1000+W invertor at full power with this battery.

      • -2

        Or just get 2x batteries in series

        • +5

          Of just buy another lithium battery with continuous discharge rating of 100A or more.
          Some people have limited space for just one auxiliary battery, and also do not want the weight of two batteries.

        • +11

          Parallel

          • +3

            @Buyingcrap: Gotta be careful with Parallel. Most packs are not rated for it. Including this one.

            • +2

              @tanksinatra: I've seen this before but I've never been able to workout why some lithiums can't be run in parallel. Is it to do with the BMS?

              • +3

                @BuzzBuzzBuzz: Lithium cells discharge and charge at different rates but they need to be kept within 0.1v of each other. The battery would have a built in balancer to correct its own internal cells.

                If you have more than 1x battery you would need an external balancer to keep each battery balanced.

              • @BuzzBuzzBuzz: Mostly to do with one battery dropping out due to a low voltage situation when running a big load leaving the other battery to supply the full current of the load by itself, according to enerdrive. Just don't run big loads unless the battery voltage is well above cut off levels and it should be fine though imo.

              • +1

                @BuzzBuzzBuzz: I've connected mine in parallel before and the reason why they say you shouldn't do it is when it hits low voltage and one of the battery's BMS activate low voltage protection and goes open circuit.

                In this situation if you're drawing more than the rated 50amp and now it's all coming from the 1 battery instead of being shared between both batteries that would not be good…

                To be honest if you're just powering a fridge at the back you don't need to worry about this.

                Its only applicable for people who are drawing more amps than the rated capacity of a single battery that's connected in series.

          • @Buyingcrap: 24 * 50 = 12 * 100

            If your inverter can take

            • @Arigato: Who runs a 24v inverter?

              • @Buyingcrap: Some allow a voltage range. What is the application?

                • +1

                  @Arigato: I have never seen one and I have installed hundreds.

                • @Arigato: Never seen a variable input inverter. I’m sure they exist but the vast majority are either 12 or 24 or 48 volt.

        • That will double the voltage.

          What you want is parallel

          • @Ahbal: Inverters don’t have variable inputs?

            • +1

              @Arigato: Some dont. Some are strictly 12 or 24v.

            • @Arigato: no, very rare to have one as such, unless you want to pay through the nose for it for some grid-level types to make your house go off-grid, at which point it won't be portable.

    • +1

      Also their 120Ah battery is actually "80% usable" so really a 96Ah battery. Mine got less than that though, although it has been a good battery

      • +2

        itechworld claim 80% usable which implies 20% of the capacity is kept in reserve somewhere. But when I've attempted a full discharge, the bms doesn't cut out until about 9.5V. That is dead flat, 0% remaining. This indicates that there is no reserve and it's really just a smaller battery that they've slapped a "120AH" sticker on.

    • I recently spent $2050 for 200A battery and an inverter from itechworld :P

      Fingers crossed then.

    • +2

      I mean you should probably look at his followup

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QEWwJ2bXl4

      TLDR:

      BMS is probably bad, causing cells to get out of balance.

      • If you're just powering a fridge for a long weekend this is more than sufficient since you're drawing on average ~20A a day. ie. Power fridge form 4-5 day without recharging.

        If you have solar most probably get an extra 2-4 days.

        If you charge it from your car it's pretty much unlimited.

  • +4

    Off grid noob here, after doing some possibly wrong maths, seems i need around 15 of these to sustain an average 20kwh/day horsehold consumption?

    • +5

      If you are a off-grid noob, don't attempt. Need a lot more researching (I cannot claim to know much myself). You'll want better quality batteries than this VoltX, because depending on how you connect all these batteries, if one battery is defective you can lose power altogether.

      • +2

        Tks for advice! Not gonna attemp coz i know it's still long way til battery tech is commercially mature and hassel free, but love to do some research myself.

          • +4

            @Bargin Boy: Not anymore. LiFePO4 is far better with 6000+ cycles using 90%+ of the rated capacity. Remember lead acid ican only use 20-40% of the rated capacity of you're trying for 10 years of daily cycling. Even then you will be pushing it.

            • -1

              @Dsiee: The old 32 volt system has lead acid batteries that are pushing 20 years now, the new system is 3 years so far.
              I probably only use 25-30 of rated capacity (1200AH)
              As for the LiFePO4 and having 90% discharge sounds good but you either need a lot of panels or generator to keep topping up as the best winter sunny day charge is less than half of a summer day and a rainy is worse again.
              As for my previous post I mention best value, Lithium is 3-4 times the cost with only a 10 year warranty at the time of my purchase.
              I guess all the neggers are rich and can afford $100,000+ systems

              • +1

                @Bargin Boy: Have you not seen how cheap LiFePO4 has become? I've picked up 100Ah cells for same price as lead acid.

                • +1

                  @tanksinatra: I picked up a deep cycle 100ah for $100 retail at Aldi. You're suggesting you've found new LiFePO4 100ah for similar?

                  • @bargainshooter: That's a great deal but not really representative of battery prices and not available right now. Most of the cheaper ones are around the $250-300 mark, both Lead Acid and Lithium.

    • +1

      Apparently this pack is not series nor parallel capable

      • +1

        That seems really weird but it's definitely stated on their specs:
        https://voltx.com.au/products/voltx-12v-100ah-basic

        • It's all down to the BMS on Lithium packs like these, if they can or cannot do series or parallel

      • +1

        Well thats pointless…

      • +2

        You'll be fine mate, I got 2 everglow eBay cheapo $270 a pop in series to power a 24V UPS and it works fine for the last 6m.

        I also discharge ~40A @40Ahr everyday for the pair of them. ~700-800Whr.

        I also don't do anything different with the charging, the UPS thinks it's just another AGM. The AGM and LiFePO4 charge voltage are pretty much the same.

        People over think this, it's just voltage and amp. Everything else is marketing to get you to pay more.

        That said, I do know I've likely got grade B cells that are likely recycled from previous used based on Google tear-downs of other LiFePO4 batteries.

    • +3

      the battery stores 1.28kWhr
      so your calculation is correct that you'll need at least 15.625 (assuming you fully drain these to 0%)

      The other side of the equation is power generation.
      say you expect 6hr of sunlight a day, you would need at least 3.5kWhr of solar on your roof.
      Then you need to buffer for how many days of cloudy days you can expect etc.
      Plus you'll need solar for your own consumption so the 3.5kWhr is dedicated to just recharging the batteries

      Most household batteries are set up in 48V configuration, not 12 since you would need much thicker cables at 12V and that would just be a waste of money for cabling.

      I recommend you get yourself a secondhand UPS for cheap and plug and play some batteries you have in place and connect it via solar controller to recharge so you get a bit of an idea of how all these things work.

      I've personally bought some other cheapo eBay batteries and they work fine, but I know they have recycled batteries inside maybe from old electric vehicles that have been through a lot of cycles, but I got mine for around $250-300 so its way better than a AGM at that price point

      • UPS's are only about 40% efficient, so defeats the point of saving the power of later use.

        I bought one of these last year and tested the capacity to be approx 65 Ah - so I returned it.

        • +1

          I guess I got lucky with my cheap eBay batteries, mine tested close to 100Ah.

          I got an APC 1500kva UPS and the batteries are in 24V configuration and it's 95%+ efficient when I tested it.

          You might want to test the UPS efficiency again 40% sound way too low.

    • +5

      It will depend on the number of horses.

    • +3

      What are you doing Offgrid to consume 20kwh a day? That sounds like on grid consumption. If you are Offgrid your hot water would be gas, firewood or solar hot water panels. Your cooking would be gas or firewood. Heating would be firewood. Just the usual TV, computer etc you shouldn't be using 20kwh a day.

      • +5

        Off grid aircon, electric cooking, and electric hot water isn't a bad idea now solar is so cheap. The hot water heatpump runs when there is solar and stores enough for a couple days. If you just preheat the oven before the sun goes down (east-west solar panels are the best option now as they extend this time frame for self consumption). My 15kwh of lifepo4 batteries is 2 days worth of my 100% electric house.

        • +2

          The problem isn't the solar it's the storage and cost.

          • +1

            @tessel: Load shift most of it to the daytime if you can then you don't need to store as much.

  • +1

    Also good for trolling motor if you scored this boat deal and have been waiting for a decent battery deal.

    • I was thinking about this although I missed out on the trolling motor itself. Do you have any experience in this?

      • +1

        No previous experience, but from my research this the best bang for buck for a known label that is also sold by outdoor stores (therefore likely has local distribution and support).

      • Make sure it is in waterproof case or your will make the news of day when it goes all wrong……

      • oh..no……….
        i have been waiting for a deal for the trolling motor for several months…

  • My question: can it charge straight from a solar panel? That would be ideal.

    The description on Amazon is a tad vague: "ability to recharge with a solar panel set up". The term 'set up' could mean you need another $$$ charger in between.

    • +3

      Technically you may get away with it if it outputs nothing higher than 14.6v but that's not very likely or optimum, you really need a charge controller

      • +2

        Lead acid batteries can safely be charged with a $20 PWM charge controller between panel and battery. That type of controller does not change the voltage, the solar panel voltage will automatically match the battery voltage, that's what makes the controller so cheap.

        If this battery requires a DC-DC charger, that charger has a price tag in the same order of magnitude as the battery, making it not worth my while.

        • -2

          You will need an MPPT controller to charge this battery from a solar panel. A dcdc charger would be needed to charge it from another battery, or more likely your alternator

          • @miicah: And not just any MPPT either. The $40 one here specifically says "Not to be used with lithium batteries".

            Here's one for $110 that supposedly can do lithium.

            • +1

              @team teri: To be honest any charge profile that outputs 14.4-14.6V will be fine.

              Lithium is just constant voltage. This is a cheap battery, there's no point buying a $300 charger to charger a $300 battery.

              I've used my normal lead acid charger to charger it and it's fine. I've even used a laptop charger with a $5 buck converter to charge it in the early days.

              If you overcharge it, the BMS will kick in and open circuit to protect the battery so nothing to worry about.

              Its just electricity.

              • @SeVeN11: I read somewhere the reason some lead acid chargers is not suitable is because of the Float charging stage. That Kings solar charger has 3 stage charging - Boost, Absorption and Float. I think once the lithium battery is fully charged and if you leave the solar charger connected and goes into the Float charging stage for long time, it can damage the lithium battery. If you know to disconnect the solar charger when the lithium battery is fully charged, then no damage will be done.

                • @edfoo: That's correct, but float charge is usually ~13.6V

                  And if the solar voltage is lower than the battery voltage, no amps goes into the battery.

                  Some of the cheap $20 eBay charge controller allow you to manually set the voltage. Some even have preset settings for LiFePO4.

                  Just a bit of warning on those kings charge controller. I've got a king's MPPT charger that came with my solar, I find the charge controller. outputs 15V which is way too much even for an AGM.

                  How I've over come this is I roughly know how full my batteries are so I don't leave the solar attached when I know it's full. I don't let it go to float, because I'm scared it'll cook my old AGM.

                  When your battery are.not full, it doesn't make any difference since the voltage will be within tolerance.

                  I don't know if I've got a fault kings MPPT charge controller.

                  Note: I've never had to charge my LiFePO4 with my king's MPPT charge controller that output 15V when the battery are full. If this was to happen, I suspect the BMS will go high voltage cutoff and open circuit and everything will be fine.

                  I've got a another 18650 3s battery I built with recycled laptop batteries and a $5 eBay BMS with nominal voltage of 11.1V that I use for a 12V UPS and that's what happens when it's fully charge. The BMS just open circuit and stops charging the battery.

                  Based on this, I suspect my LiFePO4 will do the same given my BMS would be way crappier /basic than the one they have in these LiFePO4 box.

          • @miicah: This $55 MPPT is the cheapest I can find that supports Lithium. A lot better price than I feared.

    • Some portable and RV solar panels have a built in charge controller. Virtually no batteries do.

  • This is not a car battery? Looks like one

    • +4

      LiFePO4 batteries are a similar design to car/truck batteries but do not produce the cold cranking amps to actually be useful as one.

      • +2

        Yeh a lot of empty space inside. I wish they would pack them to fit just the cells and BMS, take up a lot less space for camping rather than trying to match standard battery size.

    • +2

      Definitely don't use this to replace a car battery.

      Car can draw over 100-150Amp when all the lights are on, with AC at full blast, radio, navigator and everything on.

      This battery won't be able to handle it.

  • Anyone have any feedback for using this as a second battery in the car to run a fridge?

    • +1

      No personal experience but based on the independent reviews out there it's the best of the cheapo options in Australia for that sort of thing.

    • +1

      Would like to know the same. Have a 47L Dometic fridge that I want to run on a battery when out camping.

      • +1

        I don't have this exact battery but I have a similar 100ah lifepo4 battery that I run a fridge off of while camping. Just stick it in a battery box and plug the fridge in. I run an older style ~40ish litre Dometic fridge and get a solid few days out of it without having to recharge.

    • +2

      As long as you're not storing it in the engine bay should do the job fine, fridge will likely draw less than 5A.

      I've been running my fridge on a 80Ah AGM previously, usually only camping for 3 or 4 days and with solar panel, though amongst the trees doesn't get much of a charge. Still does the job without dropping below 50% charge too often, including charging up power banks and Ozito batteries.

      Of course depends how hot and hard the fridge has to work. Good to have a DC-DC charger on board to top up with the car if needed.

      Got a cheap eBay 100Ah lithium for $270 for next trip so will see how that goes. Capacity wise seems to check out, BMS has lower load rating than the one in OP but should be fine for a fridge and recharging other batteries.

      In between trips if it's going to be a while good practice to store at your lithiums at 50% charge too.

      • Yeah I got the $270 cheap lifepo4 battery too, I've got two of these and been using them for 6m in a UPS.

        I cycle about 40Ah each day for an hour(ie 40A draw) and simply charge them with the UPS which was designed for AGM. The UPS's charge voltage is below the lithium charge voltage so I can only charge it up to about 95%, but that's more than enough for what I need.

        I've been pret happy with my cheap lithium and if these are anything like my cheap eBay ones, it'll power a fridge for 4-5 days.

        For anybody getting these batteries I recommend you test it properly. Most 40-60L fridge would draw on average 24A over a day, so in theory, your fridge should be able to last 4 days on it and that would be a simple test.

        A better test is to get an inverter and put a decent load on it close to the rate capacity 50A (600W load - hair dryer on low) and see how many hours it last. Ideally with a multimeter measuring voltage and amp and taking reading every 15-30minutes.

    • +2

      I bought this exact battery (from Aldi) to run as 2nd battery in back of Ute with a 40L dometic.

      Can’t really comment too much on it other than it works fine. Battery lasts a few days at least running the fridge. My philosophy was even if not as good as a much higher priced lithium battery it’s still going to be better than an equivalent priced deep cycle.

      I have it hooked up to alternator with a renogy 40A DC - DC charger. Battery is inside an xtm battery box from anaconda

      Just make sure you use heavy enough wire to hook it all up. I ran 4 gauge wire.

    • Cheers for the feedback. Purchased and now to figure out all the other bits and pieces I need 🤣

  • +1

    Outbax is usually in the eBay 20% off specials so this deal comes along very regularly. Still, word is it's the best bang for buck if you're looking for something basic that can do what it says on the label.

  • +1

    I've got a 100ah battery in my camper trailer. Would this be a suitable replacement for it? Running 12v fridge, water pump, lights.

    • You have it by itself or in a battery box of some sort?
      By what methods do you charge your existing battery?

      • It's mounted inside the frame of the trailer in a box connected to an inverter for the outlets it supplies.

    • If your current one is not a lithium one you'll have to make sure your chargers support this chemistry.

      • No current one is deep cycle which was why I was wondering if I could replace it with this one.

Login or Join to leave a comment