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Anker 737 Power Bank 24,000mAh 140W (2x USB-C, 1x USB-A) $159.99 Delivered @ AnkerDirect AU via Amazon AU

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Anker 737 Power Bank 24,000mAh 140W (2x USB-C, 1x USB-A) $159.99 Delivered @ AnkerDirect AU via Amazon AUAffiliate
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eggaz on 23/12/2023 - 07:15 amazon.com.au (1418 clicks)
Last edited 23/12/2023 - 11:42 by 1 other user
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This is the cheapest I have seen this Power Bank. Works great with plenty of devices including the Asus ROG Ally and Lenovo Legion Go.

Anker Power Bank, 24K 3-Port Portable Charger with 140W Output, Smart Digital Display, Compatible with iPhone 15/15 Plus/15 Pro/15 Pro Max, iPhone 14/13 Series, Samsung, MacBook, Dell, AirPods

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.
This is part of Boxing Day Sales for 2023
Electrical & Electronics 24000mAh Anker Boxing Day Power Bank

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closed Comments

  • M00Cow on 23/12/2023 - 07:55
    -3

    imuto 100w, 26800 mah for $86.46
    Bugger capacity, half the price.

    https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0B2W82T6R

  • carrawa on 23/12/2023 - 08:23
    +1

    Anyone successfully used one of these things with a cpap machine? if so, how? How Long? What pressures or set up? I use humidifier and high pressure.

    • GLO on 23/12/2023 - 08:33

      Which CPAP?

      • carrawa on 24/12/2023 - 06:02

        Resmed S9 Elite, though also want to know if someone has this or similar working with S10 or S11 or Airmini.

        • GLO on 29/12/2023 - 10:46

          I have S9 and Airmini

    • gonsped on 23/12/2023 - 09:09
      +5

      Can confirm this DOES NOT work with a cpap machine. The software controlled current ramp up trips the cpap machine not to run properly.

      Get the Imuto 100W which has a dumber software controller and works great.

      • carrawa on 24/12/2023 - 06:07

        Thanks for the info. The proper ones have been out of stock for at least two years I can remember. Someone bodged one for an airmini i think by changing the plug and something else.

      • Prong on 27/12/2023 - 19:35

        Do you mind explaining more about the specifics of the what you mean re: software controlled current ramp up, and how it causes issues for the cpap machine?

        Any particular machine in question? How is it connected to the power bank?

        I see some references to tripping protection circuitry in the power banks, but could not find much on issues for the cpap machine.

        I don't have a cpap machine, but I am curious to try and replicate this with a load tester or other method. I have been testing some power banks for work and have quite a few 100W or higher output models, so could possibly collect some data on this.

        • carrawa on 30/12/2023 - 23:35

          There are CPAP help forums where people bodge or do battery set ups for cpap machines, and get technical, sometimes, very technical.

          Sleep Apnea Forum is one and CPAP Talk are the biggest i know of, just search the name and browse the battery threads. Google them as not sure if i am allowed can post the links.

          Resmed CPAPs for example have a third wire. If you don't replicate this power signal, Resmed machines won't function. There may be exceptions, best to follow the forums. Most are 24V but i think the S11 is different (same motor as the airmini, S9 and S10 use a different motor).

          Forgot, needs to be 300W pure sine wave etc.

    • tommypickles on 23/12/2023 - 12:47
      +1

      Ooh appreciate this thread! I am stuck wondering the same thing.

      Since we’re on topic, can we crowdsource a short list of:
      - Battery packs we know works but also have general utility (eg 140w to charge a MacBook, 65w to charge iPhones, iPads and low power modes for AirPods)
      - Specific conditions that let us know what works or not (eg PD on port = not working?)
      - Where to find an affordable quality CPAP to USB-C cable that works eg Airmini to USB-C

      EDIT: OP I’m not sure the cpap setting matters in grand scheme of things — it either works or doesn’t, and more mAh the longer it’ll last to power your device

  • cerealsmok3r on 23/12/2023 - 08:44

    Is this for international travel? I was reading it up and it looks like it's changed to 160kw Max but is that just the mAh X wattage?

    • philotex on 23/12/2023 - 09:04

      The airline limit is based on Wh not kw. Qantas for example limits the carry on battery to 100-160Wh. With 5v as a reference voltage : (24000mAh / 1000) x 5v = 120Wh (though the reference voltage might only be 3.7v which would make this 89Wh).

      • mfazackerley on 25/12/2023 - 11:16
        +1

        Yeh its Cell voltage, not output voltage which for lithium cells is 3.7v

    • bargainshooter on 23/12/2023 - 09:24
      +1

      It's mAh x voltage, not wattage

    • Kibbelhs on 23/12/2023 - 11:06

      Just took this on an international flight yesterday without any issues.

    • meeowth on 23/12/2023 - 11:55

      This is 89Wh, which is less than 100Wh so you don't even need to declare it. If a power bank is between 100Wh and 160Wh you need to ask the airline permission (supposedly it's pretty easy to get permission)

      The 140W in the title is referring to the maximum power output, which if you where to actually max out would drain the bank in less than 40 minutes, (60 minutes x (89/140))

      Nothing really uses that much power though, you would probably need to plug in 2 60W laptops and a fast charging phone to hit 140w

  • Arcayne on 23/12/2023 - 09:49

    Looking for a power bank for travel for leisure and work (both domestic and international) for my phone mainly, S22 Ultra. Would this be too bulky? Should I look for a 20000mah instead?

    • tororm on 26/12/2023 - 23:44

      I've had it for about a year now and have doen several big international trips with it. It's undeniably heavy, but I love that it charges my phone multiple times and can also power my laptop when I'm not near a socket.

  • Ultraman on 23/12/2023 - 09:53
    +1

    $133 before

    • eggaz on 23/12/2023 - 10:00
      -1

      Lowest on Amazon, super convienient. I prefer Amazon as they have next day delivery and easy to deal.with if any issues.

      • Ultraman on 23/12/2023 - 21:15
        -2

        "This is the cheapest I have seen this Power Bank ON AMAZON" - fixed OP for you… This is Ozbargain after all. Hand in your Ozbargain membership pls.

  • beach bum on 23/12/2023 - 11:11
    +1

    $133 is about the max I’d pay , it’s a brick and there’s better out there if you want to spend more , also old model .

    • sqheaven on 24/12/2023 - 01:50

      I thought this was me model, got it for 132

  • HappyBargainer on 23/12/2023 - 11:24
    +3

    I have this power bank. The advantages are the powerbank can be charged very quickly as it has 140w input. It charges my laptop and mobile without any issue. However, I found that it cannot charge my Samsung earbuds and apple airpods. I tried all three ports which only charges at 0.8 to 1w but I don't believe that the input of earbuds and airpods is so low.

    My view is that you should choose a cheaper and lighter powerbank if your primary purpose is to charge a mobile device considering the high price tag. In addition, as someone mentioned that this model is an older model. I found Anker often sells an outdated model on Amazon Au.

    • jeppetto367 on 23/12/2023 - 12:09
      +1

      Can you not put it into low power mode? I have an Anker Powercore+ 26800 and I can double press the main button which makes it trickle power to airpods (the light goes green when this mode is active).

      • HappyBargainer on 23/12/2023 - 13:03

        I tried but the same issue. What's your input on the powerbank's screen while charging airpods?

        • jeppetto367 on 25/12/2023 - 08:05

          No screen on mine, but it charges them perfectly.

    • Prong on 23/12/2023 - 15:38

      1W charge for earbuds is normal.

      Depending on exact model, the case battery capacity is around 500mAh. Including headphones, the total earphones + case battery capacity is likely around 2Wh.

      Charge time is around 2 hours, so an average charge rate of 1W is bang on.

      If you logged the charge rate from empty to full, it probably peaks a bit higher than 1W. And is less than that at the slowest point of the charge.

      • HappyBargainer on 23/12/2023 - 19:37

        When I use a 25w wall charger to charge my Samsung earbuds2 or pro, I don't believe that it took 2 hours to be fully charged from zero. From my memory, it's definitely less than one hour. I am sure that this power bank is more than capable of charging anything. Very strange….

        • Prong on 27/12/2023 - 20:43
          +1

          The Buds2 Pro (for example) appear to come with a proprietary charging cable. Unfortunately Samsung don't seem to list further info, or detail what charge protocols are supported.

          Without that, it will be hard to troubleshoot what is going on. Samsung may have it configured to limit the charge rate if not using a compatible Samsung (or other brand) charger and/or the original proprietary charge cable.

          In which case, the headphones are not communicating with the power bank, and asking for more wattage, so may be limited to about 1W. That's the fault (by design) of the headphones though, not the charger. You my have more luck with a Samsung branded power bank, but even then there does not appear to be enough info to say for sure.

          For the Buds2 Pro, the average charge rate (using the proprietary Samsung cable) is about 1.8W, based on the 2.28 Wh capacity and 75 minute charge time.

          The C1/C2 ports on the Anker 737 support PPS, so if the Buds2 Pro use PPS, then that might enable full speed charging with the original Samsung cable. The Anker 737 supports Samsung AFC on the USB-A port, but the proprietary Buds2 Pro cable appears to be USB-C to USB-C, so that is unlikely to be much help.

          You could try asking Samsung for more info. Going forward, I'd avoid any brands that use proprietary charge protocols, unless you are happy to stick completely within their ecosystem.

    • techno2000 on 24/12/2023 - 11:50

      https://support.anker.com/s/article/Why-is-there-a-0-1W-outp…

      When the trickle charging mode is opened, there will be a 0.1W output for the USB A port. If you press the power button twice, the trickle-charging mode will be activated, so there will be a small green light shown upper left on the power remain and a 0.1W output shown for the USB-A port.

      • HappyBargainer on 24/12/2023 - 13:33

        Is the charging speed of 1w to earbuds normal? I confused. I would thought that the speed should be quicker.

  • derpderpderp on 23/12/2023 - 13:04

    Dang bought a week ago at full price. Does Amazon refund on price change?

  • pathway27 on 23/12/2023 - 14:38

    This vs the UGREEN? https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/821726

    • PriceSensitive on 23/12/2023 - 15:20

      FWIW, you get this tomorrow, you get the UGREEN in 2 months ;)

    • Prong on 23/12/2023 - 15:45

      I prefer the form factor of the Ugreen power bank. The Anker 737 is very nice though, and a bit higher quality IMO.

      If sustained very high output (100W or higher) is important, then the Anker is a bit better thermally. But for most use it won't make much difference.

  • Dyl on 24/12/2023 - 02:41

    Decent recharge speed but the ZMI deals have been better if you're fine with 100w charging

    100w + 60w + 18w from memory. Charge two laptops at once full speed

  • Sconnery87 on 24/12/2023 - 06:43

    I got this on ebay yestersay for $145 from Wireless1 with ebay plus. I bought a basus one and find it really slow hope this is faster

  • ShoeyAU on 28/12/2023 - 16:17

    Received this today but it is not letting me use my intended purposes for it. i) I wanted to run a Lenovo P15V laptop which requires 135W (anything less the laptop won't recognize as plugged in) - I got a 135W rated USB-C to Lenovo square tip cable, and plugging it in I can see it draw 60W of power on the Ankers LED and the laptop recognizes its 'plugged in', but quickly the power draw drops back to 0.1W and it toggles between plugged in/ battery mode.

    The other use I wanted for it is to run a 12V portable (car) fridge in keep-cool. I have a USB-C to 12V car socket cable. Unfortunately, the fridge sees the voltage as 20V which is the dead zone between the 12V & 24V cutoff ranges so it goes into battery protection. So right now not sure if I have a use for this compared to more regular power banks.

    • Prong on 28/12/2023 - 20:41
      +1

      Re: the Lenovo. That needs 20V at 6.75A for 135W. The Anker 737 does 20V at 5A. The 140W output is 28V, 5A, which the Lenovo does not support.

      USB-C PD spec is a maximum of 5A, so higher than 100W needs more than 20V.

      Re: the fridge. What USB-C to 12V socket adapter are you using?

      Typically they should tell the power bank to output 12V, or some use 15V. If yours is telling the power bank to output 20V, then that is the issue (and a worry!) The power bank will output the voltage the adapter tells it to. You need one that does 15V or 12V.

      Alternatively, depending on the fridge, there is often an option to disable undervoltage battery protection shut down.

      If there is no disable option, depending on the maximum input voltage your fridge can handle, you may even be able to feed it 28V with an appropriate USB-C trigger. You could also try 21V with an appropriate trigger (The 737 does 21V, 5A), which may be enough.

      Otherwise you need a buck boost module, to step up the 20V to 24V. This is a DIY job I suspect, as I am not aware of a ready made cable to do it.

      • ShoeyAU on 29/12/2023 - 05:53

        Awesome info thanks!

        Makes a lot of sense - in order to push out these high wattages in a thin wire the only way is to really ramp up the voltage. I guess there are not too many applications yet that would use the 28V 5A combination?

        Re: the fridge - I bought this USB-C to 12V car socket cable off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0BYCLYN4Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_…). The odd thing about it is that it doesn't look like there is a module in line to regulate the voltage. (EDIT: Just watched some videos regarding trigger modules. I guess it must be embedded in the cable plug, but set to 20V somehow.) The fridge doesn't have a disable for the batt protection - it just has H/M/L settings to tweak the voltage bands but 20V is nowhere near any of those as you would expect. I think with this one the cable's the issue & I'll look for another one or do a bit more digging on the modules you mentioned.

        • Prong on 29/12/2023 - 09:24
          +1

          No worries - I have spent quite a bit of time messing around with this stuff, including running portable fridges off power banks, so happy to help, and it's nice to be able to share some of what I have found when tinkering!

          And yeah, 28V 5A is used by a few laptops, but I have not come across anything else. The USB PD 3.1 spec can do up to 48V, 5A (240W) with compatible devices, cables and chargers. I am not sure offhand of anything that actually supports that yet.

          Re: that particular USB-C to car accessories socket, I am not sure what is going on. Based on the spec it should only do 15V (and I have a similar unit, also from Amazon, that maxes out at 15V when plugged into the Anker 737) but potentially the PD trigger module in it is 20V.

          And yep, the trigger is just a little circuit that communicates with the power source, and is typically inside the actual USB-C plug end, under the plastic. The way the triggers work is that they ask for a specific voltage (and amperage) but if the source can't supply it, it will default to a lower voltage. For example, plugged into the Anker 737 mine outputs 15V, but in a power bank that only does up to 12V, it will output 12V.

          In your case, are you confirming the 20V output based on the fridge giving a voltage readout? Or some other method like a multimeter?

          It's a shame that the Anker 737 only shows wattage, not voltage and amperage separately.

          Out of interest, what model fridge is it? I can see what options there might be.

          • ShoeyAU on 29/12/2023 - 12:06

            @Prong: The fridge is a Kings Escape 30L(https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/kings-escape-30-fridge-free…) from 4wdsupacentre. When it was shutting down from the Anker 737, it was the fridge reporting the voltage as 20V, so I haven't checked what is coming out of the car socket with a multimeter. I might just return my cable and buy the one you got to give it a try.

            Just today I saw the fridge's own matching power bank on sale down to $139 (https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/12ah-lithium-portable-power…) so I jumped on it i) is guaranteed to work w. the fridge ii) is cheaper iii) has higher Wh capacity, and more importantly I can get it in time for New Years day on the beach :D . The only downside is the 60W max but seeing I can't run the Lenovo w. the Anker neither is at an advantage.

            Digging into all the info about USB-C power is actually very interesting. Some youtube videos are doing all sorts of DIY conversion to USB-C including old games consoles and accessories that would otherwise have its own brick. It makes a lot of stuff portable that it otherwise needs a power cord.

            • Prong on 29/12/2023 - 18:53
              +1

              @ShoeyAU: Ahhh yep nice, that matching battery pack looks to be a good deal. There are Lenovo car chargers that could then plug into it - though not at 135W. But it should still work better than USB-C.

              You can also always add a car USB-C charger to the accessory socket if you want more than 60W USB-C. I have tested the 160W Baseus charger. It's 100W single port (20V, 5A) so won't be any different than the Anker 737 for powering the Lenovo. But is a handy upgrade is ever needed otherwise. When there are eBay sales / coupons, they are often around $30. (Beware many USB-C car chargers that claim high wattages, but need 24V input to achieve them. The Baseus has a step up or down module, so does 20V 5A from a 12V or 24V input).

              I suspect that you may have run into issues with the USB-C to car accessories socket to the Kings fridge anyway. If outputting 15V, 3A, or 12V, 3A, then you have a maximum of 45W, or 36W. That's enough to run the fridge, but in my experience, some fridges have a higher wattage spike when the compressor starts up. For example, the Kings fridge is rated for up to 60W.

              With the USB PD trigger (like in the cable), the Anker 737 will do 3A at 12V or 15V, so unless very brief, a higher wattage surge may trip the overcurrent protection. In PPS mode, the 737 can do 12V or 15V at 5A, so may handle it as the actual circuitry is capable of 60W at 12V or 15V. I didn't have mine when doing most of my testing so I can't say for sure though.

              Having a trigger that enables PPS would be ideal, but I am not aware of any that are built into a cable - only ones that are in things like capacity testers, which need to be manually set, so not very useful in this case.

              To handle higher wattage surges, I built my own setup with a USB-C trigger, feeding a constant current module. I did 20V, stepped up to 24V, and set the constant current module at a max of 5A. (It could also have been set to step down to 12V, but stepping up in this case was more efficient). This was for a larger fridge, and a cheap 65W 30,000 mAh power bank, but it did the trick, and the constant current module stopped the fridge surge wattage tripping the power bank.

              One other thought - your USB-C to 12V socket may have been outputting 15V. But the fridge sees that 15V as 24V, and then thinks it is undervoltage. On one fridge I was testing, the voltage readings it gave were often a bit disconnected from reality, so 20V displayed might just be the minimum 24V cut out voltage or something like that.

              And yeah, USB-C PD triggers are great for retrofitting all sorts of things to run on USB-C. Some of the high capacity (30,000 mAh) power banks from Baseus have been very cheap (~$32) lately and do 12V output at 18W which is enough for a lot of stuff. I use one such power bank to run a fishing pole style area light when camping. I talk about that in a comment here.

              Of course, you can run such things from your Kings battery pack!

              • ShoeyAU on 29/12/2023 - 23:54

                @Prong: Indeed - the 12V car accessory socket is quite an underrated feature because it can deliver high current, and I've come to realise there's no substitution for thicker wires for that. I have a 60W car socket to USB-C from a few years ago when that was all the rage, but these days 100W (from a single port) seems common. I see that Baseus even has a 140W (single port) PD3.1 car socket charger but I guess it is doing the same 28V 5A combo which very few devices demands.

                Many thanks for the detailed info on this! I think it has really shed some light on the topic and opened up a lot of things to look into & ideas for projects. For a start, I'd love to be able to convert a (small) back massager into powerbank powered which means it could be used in the car for long road trips etc. Thanks again!

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