On sale again and can stack with a code.
Looks to be the same seller but a different battery than has been popular before. I don't know enough about batteries to give details or recommendary on the actual battery.
Assuming it is a 240v fridge?
Yes. Fridge uses about 70w on average. (1.5kwh) So would need 2 batteries. Changing during ovo free period (3hrs). Fridge costs approx $180 per year. 1000 charge cycles $495
Huh, there's absolutely no guarantee that OVOs free period will continue for any particular length of time
Spending money on gear to use in that period is crazy - I do a bunch of things between 11 and 2 but I'm working on the assumption that it could stop at any time.
@Nom: It will only get cheaper. Grid suppliers are increasing the COST of feed in during mid day as of July.
So retailers need to pay to give the grid power. They will be delighted if you take it.
@tunzafun001: and yet the grid owners still have offpeak & super offpeak around midnight to dawn. They whinge about solar production. But rather then have a 10am-2pm solar super off peak, they just discourage usage and whinge.
@M00Cow: Of course they whinge, they're scared of decentralised energy (and justifiably so!).
They may say they are future-looking with all their free hours, but the big energy providers are actively using every tool they can (infrastructure delays, overbudgeting, bribes, etc.) to stop the change and revert it to the past, where the grid owners owned the power plants and the grid, and could engage in cartel behaviour with no recourse because there wasn't even an alternative for consumers.
Now that consumers hold the cards with household renewable energy production, they're actively trying to get the governments to discourage decentralised electricity usage and make households dependent on registered energy providers again.
@tunzafun001: My son is involved in connecting commercial solar farms and they keep being connected. They are installing batteries at most of them now though.
It will only get cheaper. Grid suppliers are increasing the COST of feed in during mid day as of July.
So retailers need to pay to give the grid power. They will be delighted if you take it.
@tunzafun001 except that the only provider making this commercial decision is OVO.
And as I said, there's absolutely no guarantee that OVOs free period will continue for any particular length of time.
No other providers are doing this - if OVO decide to stop, then you're out of options…
This is one of the most wild thing I've ever heard to save a few bucks 😂 good stuff 👏
Charge 2 x 100Ah batteries in 3 hours?, you'll need a 12v 60+ Amp lithium charger also, that wont be cheap !
@FLICKIT: Or they would be better to a Victron Charger + Inverter. I've got a 3000W Multi Plus II and I've got it set to charge 100 amps an hour (could be more) on my 300Ah Lithium.
Its a great system with UPS functionality, but cost a pretty penny! It would outweigh the savings that @GenerallyClumsy wants to make.
@geekcohen: That would be the way to go but I'm not sure OP's budget would stretch to the ~$1300 price tag, lol
@geekcohen: Depends how you look at it.
I like the idea of doing these things, because in the event of an emergency you have an additional resource to draw upon. I paid $150 for a DC camping fridge, in part as a way to have some insurance against blackouts. But with OPs idea, he would have the same thing.
@outlander: Yes, it is suitable for a backup, for sure. Make your own power station and have a small charger on it ready for those blackouts. But a full time thing? Maybe not beause as mentioned, you would need a pretty big charger to get it up to 100% in those 3 hours of "Free" Power.
@outlander: I needed a battery so I could add an electric trolling motor to my tinny so I built a 200Ah battery into a SCA Safe-Case so it's a bit of a portable power-pack that can be moved around as needed:: https://imgur.com/a/powmr-200ah-battery-box-8HOdace … Fun project…
I also throw it in the campervan and use it with a Renogy 1000w inverter to recharge my e-bike so I don't have to pay for powered campsites to charge it when travelling… (my campervan only has a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery, it's fine for the fridge and general living on the road, but not enough to be recharging the 48v-17.5Ah e-bike battery which takes about 72Ah@12v for a full charge)
And if/when there's an extended power outage at home I'll have a nice power source…
@FLICKIT: What's the gauge of the wire coming from the fuse & shunt to plugs? And shouldn't each +ve have it's own fuse?
@bargainshooter: I think the black welding cable is 35mm2 by it's measurements, it was just stuff I had on hand, 25mm2 would have been adequate… and the smaller red and black cable going to the anderson plugs is 16mm2 (1.70/7) building wire… 16mm2 can easily handle more than I can pull through the Anderson plugs…
The 16mm2 is just 7-strand building wire I stripped out of some old multicore cable, it's the type of cable used in domestic/industrial installations… They generally say to use fine stranded cable for mobile/vehicle installations but I've never had an issue just using 7-strand building wire… (my campervan is all done with building wire and I've done 5 laps of the country without any issues, lol, I was an electrician in a previous life so I have a lot of odd industrial cable around the place)
The 200Ah battery can output 200amps, and I've installed a 300a mega-fuse (the BMS over-current protection 'should' kick in before the fuse blows)… I based my cable sizing on the possible fault current of 300+amps so if there's a dead short on an anderson the fuse will pop, and the anderson will probably be toast, but the wiring isn't going to melt or such…
Edit: I haven't bothered fusing the individual anderson plugs because everything I plug into it has it's own protection.. The megafuse and BMS protection is good enough to protect everything in the box…
Here's a couple of good cable size calculators:
https://www.energymatters.com.au/dc-cable-size-calculator/
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html
And for reference, 50A andersons are designed to be unplugged with 50amps flowing, but you can run upto 120amps through them if you don't unplug them under load… My biggest load is just a 1000w inverter which I generally only run at less than 500w, so it's no issue running it off a 50A anderson… Down the track if I end up using like a 2000w inverter with it or the likes, I'll probably instal a 170A anderson in the box…
@FLICKIT: Wouldn't you be better with a straight DC convertor for the e bike (minimise the losses in conversion). 4A is around $25.
@tunzafun001: Yes, at the moment I'm just using what I have, and playing it safe considering the risks when charging Li-ion batteries… I charge up the 12v 200Ah battery using a DC-DC charger from my alternator, and/or solar, I'm not having to scrimp on power, I'm not running out of battery capacity or such so I'm not too bothered by the losses, at the moment*…
The losses don't seem too bad from rough calculations, the bike battery is 48v 17.5Ah, close to 900Wh in theory, running it down to 41v and charging it up I used 72.5Ah from my 12v battery, 926Wh (measured with a Victron Smart-Shunt)… But, I'm not draining the bike battery down to dead empty, so reality is I'm probably only putting like 800Wh into the battery, either way I figure I'm probably getting close to 90% efficiency, it's not horrendous… (DC boost regulators aren't all that efficient either)
I've toyed with the idea of trying a 12-72v 2.5A boost converter, then feeding that into my Victron Smart-solar 100/20 solar controller to control the e-bike battery charging… https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008700535297.html
In theory it should work, and I'll probably go that way in time, but for the moment the inverter & mains charger setup is ok…
@FLICKIT: Those numbers are pretty good, cant complain.
I have a spare 250w roof panel (approx 36v) that I need to set up to charge my ebike (48v). Gov employee…so the world would end if I plugged it in to charge at work. So hoping to set up a basic charging set up, plan to use an old 12v battery as a buffer. Alternatively, I bought a 30Ah Lifepo4 12v (car aux battery) from Lito Kala for $90.
I figure the bike's BMS will sort the charging, as long as I can get the DC input pretty close to what the AC charger that comes with it outputs…. but wouldn't leave it too long (trust in an Ali Express BMS is not overly high).
@tunzafun001: Yeh, my Mid-drive ebike kit & battery came from Aliexpress, 'Greenergy Electric Bike Store', a semi-reputable company, but I still wouldn't trust it so I'm cautious not to charge the battery unattended, when I'm sleeping, or such, I'm very mindful how much energy is stored in the battery, lol…
I originally purchased the Victron 100/20 solar controller (which can charge 48v batteries) to use old house panels to recharge the ebike battery but the panels I have are too big to be carting around in the campervan comfortably, then in between times I bought the 200Ah battery for the tinny so that was put into e-bike charging use also…
Since then I purchased 2x $80 200w solar blankets to use for charging the 200Ah battery in the tinny: https://imgur.com/jfSWhhp
https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/897599
so if/when I end up doing another lap of the country and take the e-bike with me I'll use the solar blankets to charge the 200Ah battery if/when I'm not driving enough to charge it up…
Little steps, in the past I was only doing short trips with the ebike in tow, few days at most, and I just used powered sites at caravan parks when I needed to charge it.. Last week I finished a month long hiking and e-bike trip and relied solely on the 200Ah battery and inverter for charging the bike, so it's still all fairly new for me to be charging it on the road and such, still finding my feet and working out what works for my style of travel… (I didn't actually need to use the solar blankets for charging on the recent trip, the DC-DC charger was enough)… (another charging option, I have 2x 100w rigid panels on my van with a Victron 75/15 controller for charging the 100Ah house battery in the van, I could connect that system to the 200Ah battery to charge it if/when the 100Ah battery is full)
@FLICKIT: Brilliant info mate. Really appreciate it. Inspired to get one of the blankets and Aldi battery, and chuck it on the bimini. Another seller has the same blanket with a make an offer listing. See how we go. Cheers
@tunzafun001: Awesome !… You probably noticed my super-rough half arsed video about the solar blankets in that solar-blanket deal thread, just be mindful the info is 'rough' lol…
@FLICKIT: I bought a 12v '100A' Mppt controller off ebay for $11….you should see what rocked up :)
But I think you might be able to get an actual 50A for a half decent price (50 A being a pretty standard max for most generic plugs).
Better off making it a 24v system and half the amperage…i think!
@tunzafun001: That reply was for the guy that wanted to charge up 2x 100Ah batteries from mains power in 3 hours…
@FLICKIT: I believe it's possible to build a cheap high current charger if your game. One or two used server PSUs for up to 100A.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1581061-DPS-6…
What sort/size of fridge? 100a max constant discharge current is "only" 1200-1300w and if you include some inverter inefficiencies into the calculation, you could quickly overwhelm the bms.
Very few setups I've seen have successfully been run from a single 12v battery. Often two or more, at higher voltage. It might be doable though, depending on your situation and the maths.
Fridges are about 200-250w peak so not an issue at all. I'm guessing you haven't seen many if the fridge was drawing 5a suggesting it is absolutely rooted.
Main issue is the parasitic draw of a cheap inverter which I imagine is what op will end up with if they are here.
My cheap 1000w Renogy draws about 1 amp when it's idle
Only issue might be the heater element if it's a frost free fridge, though that should still come in under 1200W.
buy a 12v camping fridge. you will also need a charger..
Just get a DC-powered fridge instead.
I can power this fridge https://www.anacondastores.com/camping-hiking/fridges-cooler… from that battery for about 48H if fully charged (Victron charger) so it's just enough for a weekend trip. With decent solar panels and a good solar controller you could never have to charge your battery and run your fridge non-stop for month unless it's super hot or not enough sunlight. It's hard to estimate power draw with fridges as they don't run constantly.
Kings branded fridges are 240/12v
I've got this exact battery..taken on quite a few camping trips. Wasn't expecting great things but it hasn't failed or had any issues whatsoever. Can actually put approximately 104ah back into the battery with a victron charger from fully flat. Bargain at this price. Would buy again.
Any real world tests/info on this battery or feedback from others on under bonnet lithiums? I'm only at teh start of my research into under bonnet lithiums
You can't put a "normal" lithium battery under your bonnet, the engine heat will destroy it in no time.
Also watched a video a while back how the alternator will burn out because of the lower resistance from the battery. Might be remembering wrong but aside from heat issue, you need to do more than just switching batteries.
You generally always run a DC-DC charger to charge lithium batteries in vehicles…
@FLICKIT: By “under the bonnet” comment I assumed they were talking about replacing their started battery with a lithium one. That is also what I was talking about.
@I like freestuff: Ahhh ok, I figured they were talking about using this battery as a second/house/storage battery under the bonnet, a lot of 4x4's have a spot for a second battery and it's generally not recommended to run lithiums in the engine bay due to the heat…
Some companies sell storage batteries they claim are ok under the bonnet, but a lot of those tend to have issues after a couple of years due to the heat…
You'd never use a battery like this for a starter battery, it wouldn't be able to supply the amps needed for the starter motor, CCA…
There are lithium starter batteries around these days but they tend to be damn expensive…
don't put this battery under the bonnet. A good battery for this would be the Optima Yellow Top
It's $219 for non-plus members with coupon SSNOW
Seems paying for plus would still save you a chunk of change
Agree… If you cant get the $10 deal to get Plus for a year it's worth paying the $5 to get it for a month when buying things like this, the extra saving easily covers the cost and the easy free returns is a must when dealing this companies like this…
Extra off for buying more, down to 210 or 168?
Its good seeing the price of these coming down, just a shame the battery boxes aren't. Its crazy the prewired boxes cost more than this.
Most standard boxes are about $45. The more expensive boxes (like kings batblocks) have chargers and other things in them - they are still overpriced given what's included - not worth the sum of their parts.
I can't find the terms and conditions on ebay for the "MAYDEAL" code. I want to know if I can spam the code for multiple purchases or if it's a single use deal.
I want to buy 4 which gives me a total of $800.58.
But if I buy separately it will cost a total of $732.80.
Alternatively using the "SSNOW" code drops the total of 4 down to $792.72.
https://pages.ebay.com.au/buyer_coupons/2025/maydeal/
You can only use the redemption code 5 times during the Offer Period
Can anyone confirm if these are the same Gentrax batteries they were selling before? The blue ones?
These are on Temu. With a 40% cashback, they drop to liek $150 each.
Just waiting for someone game enough to buy one and report back
Temu is a local marketplace seller too, is it just Outbax selling on there?
I assume a battery box like this Kings one for under $70 would do for this ?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/174271080848?_skw=battery+box+ci…
Yes, that would be sufficient.
Check the max amp rating for the box and see if it suits your needs. Lots of the cheaper boxes only output 10A.
Found the Kings battery-box a bit cheaper buying direct, plus a free headtorch - https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/products/
This might be a case of "you get what you pay for". I suspect these contain used pouch cells rather than prismatic, as was the case when a teardown was last filmed a few years ago. In the video they contained a 50A BMS, which is different to the listed specs, and since then the "Power Bolt" branding has been removed. I think it's also safe to say that these are in no way equivalent to "Gentrax" branded batteries.
Also, this no-name "Power Bolt" brand battery is only available on the Outbaxcamping ebay account and not the outbax.com.au website. Does anyone know if this is an official eBay account? I have emailed the website asking for clarification.
I tend to agree, I think it's better to avoid the bargain basement batteries and spend a little more on better quality… (especially when you consider your overall investment when you're adding a solar controller, DC-DC charger, mains charger, and such, spending a little more on a better quality battery isn't really a big deal IMO)…
Like these WattCycle batteries, they seem decent at $246 (they were $240 the other day):
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/365194232567
Will Prowse Wattcycle teardowns:
https://youtu.be/UDkJ7Sq21Qw
https://youtu.be/9Mp7C2iCKS0
Update: I have confirmed with customer service that this is an official eBay account. They say the Power Bolt battery contains unused pouch cells.
Anyone know a LiFePO4 Battery battery monitor that has xlr 3 pin for mobility scooters i upgraded to lithium but my battery gauge is no longer accurate.
Just buy a seperate battery monitor like this. Are you wanting to monitor the voltage or know the current %?
Any deals on affordable inverter/ups/charger to make this a viable fridge power source?