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[Prime] Shelly Plus 1PM Wi-Fi & Bluetooth Smart Relay Switch with Power Measurement $26.25 Delivered @ Amazon DE via AU

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Shelly Plus 1PM specs: https://www.shelly.com/blogs/documentation/shelly-plus-1pm

This gear seems to be priced well at the moment also:
Shelly Plus 2PM = $32.23 https://www.amazon.com.au/Shelly-Bluetooth-Channels-Metering…
Shelly PM Mini Gen 3 = $21.48 https://www.amazon.com.au/Shelly-Bluetooth-Automation-Compat…
Shelly Plus i4 DC = $19.74 https://www.amazon.com.au/Shelly-4-Digital-Controller-Automa…
There's some Shelly Pro gear discounted also, dimmer and such…

TopCashBack seems to have 10% back on the Amazon 'Home Improvement' category today 10/10/2025, ends midnight..
https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/927957

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.
This is part of Amazon Prime Big Deal Days sale for 2025

Related Stores

Amazon AU
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Comments

  • +8

    "Easy install" shows DIY install, screwdriver with long, uninsulated shaft. Very naughty :-)

    • +6

      In Australia this gear needs to be installed by a licenced electrician…

      • +3

        100% right for 240V AC installs.

        Some Shelly's can also run on 12-30v DC which is fine for hobbyists (and how I have it installed on my garage door motor).

      • -6

        On top of licensed installation requirement - a good sparky would not install this as it’s not certified in AU device. Wonder if anyone can confirm / reject my educated guess?

      • -1

        If you cut an extensions lead and join it to that its completely legal

      • +2

        I install this stuff all day every day and I have no licence…
        Ruh roh raggy

        • -3

          And voided insurance

          • @rpb: If that was the case, don't you think Multi-billion dollar companies wouldn't have people like me do this work?

    • Except you aren't going to be installing it with the circuit live - so the uninsulated screwdriver doesn't really matter.

      • +5

        Newbie safety error. Have you heard the expression "The gun is always loaded"? One should try to use the correct tools for electrical work. they are cheap and easily found. That photo is not the end of the world, but setting a poor example.

        • +4

          I agree with all of this - but in the real world you're going to switch the breaker off before you start, and then you're going to touch everything with your test tool before you start to make double-sure there's definately no power anywhere near where you're working.

          • +1

            @Nom: Yeah but seeing as these need a neutral, if an unskilled person starts fiddling with neutral junctions, they can still get shocked even if the specific circuit is isolated. And a volt stick or multimeter won't pick up the voltage potential until the junction is split.
            So yes, you can isolate the circuit, but you should always consult a qualified electrician, especially when you probably don't already have neutrals at your light switches.

      • -2

        I install live with uninsulated screwdrivers all the time, no issue

    • +2

      can be easy and dangerous and illegal at same time

  • Other than aesthetical purpose, is there any reason that I should switch from the Tapo smart plugs (solf for $7 a few weeks ago) than this Shelly relay?

    • +4

      I have both, and Ive found Shelly to be more relieable and have better integration.

      They can also go in more applications, including behind switchplates

      • I'm thinking of getting a fan for our subfloor ventilation, and considering between a dumb fan + smart switch vs a smart fan. I guess with a dumb fan + smart switch, there's no way to control the speed of the fan, right? Or there's some Shelly product for that purpose?
        Thanks

        • +2

          In short, No.
          I had one attached to a ceiling fan that was purely On/Off functionality.

        • For old style 3 speed AC fans, you can get smart switches that control the speed modes.

      • +1

        agreed, the integration is truly local, tapo seems to require cloud accounts for setup in my experience, and only become local after that cloud setup. I've never been able to get a matter-based tapo to pair to either HA or homekit without first setting up via a cloud account. Shelly is well and truly offline and stays the fk out of your way and lets you operate it how you want, personally I set these up with a laptop and go into the browser and join them to my local-only IOT wifi, and it's always been easy to do. That alone makes them worth it, even though they're usually more expensive

    • In my case… I've recently had a smart meter installed and I've gone onto a peak/off-peak tariff, I'm getting one of these to use as a timer for my hot water cylinder so it only runs during offpeak times… This is a cheaper option and offers more functionality than a meter box DIN mounted timer….

      • I see. But this one is only up-to 16Amp.i thought HW tank usually needs more.
        Our HW tank is on the controlled load line, which is usually 15% cheaper than the off peak tariff.

        • +1

          I use an old copper hot water cylinder from the 1950's, it's only 1.25kw, lol, it only draws about 6 amps..

          I was on a two tariff system but that's being phased out in Tassie, and I'm fairly certain I'll be much better off on the peak/offpeak…
          https://www.auroraenergy.com.au/residential-peak-off-peak

          • @FLICKIT: Despite the claim, if you consistently pull more than 10a on this it will fry the board very soon. I had tested the version 1 of this, at 15A temperature is hovering around 95 degree so best not pull out that much on extended period otherwise it won't last a few months.

        • +1

          You had me questioning myself, wondering if I was recalling the figures right, so I double checked: https://imgur.com/ize64eO

    • Yep; they last, have super quick response and can be totally local (no cloud) if you want. Any of those Tapo, etc plugs usually last 12-18 months then die

  • +4

    Use a bunch of Shelly switches and they work fine but I'll never forgive them for introducing subscription based features in their app.

    Thankfully they integrate with everything and the need for using the app is minimal

    • which model did you recommend?

  • Any issue with insurance for these as they aren't local and may not have local approvals for electrical standards?

  • Ahh no clamp

  • +2

    I guess Shelly is clearing old stock. These are $22 + freight from "smarthome" au.

    GEN4 are the latest ones.

  • +1

    local shops have Gen 3 etc, for competitive prices. Maybe you can price match too.

    https://www.ozsmartthings.com.au/collections/shelly-wifi

    ex:
    Shelly 1PM Mini Gen3 $25 : https://www.ozsmartthings.com.au/products/shelly-1pm-mini-ge…
    Shelly 1PM Gen 3 $34 https://www.ozsmartthings.com.au/products/shelly-1pm-gen3

  • +2

    Explain this to me like I hire an electrician to change my light bulbs

    • +3

      You need to know you can get a shock from a neutral……………….

    • Just wondering how much it costs you to change a light bulb. The callout fee alone is starting $50 these days.

  • Some tuya versions of these are $6 each on Ali. Ikr these are reputable.

    • Tuya are cloud reliant, and to use them offline/locally you have to jump through hoops, it seems to be a real pain in the ass…

      You seem to get what you pay for…

      • I thought they were only cloud reliant on setup, and from then on would continue to work normally even after a power outage. Obviously wifi needs to be on. I am no expert but I have a few smart bulbs and switches and haven't had operational issues with any of them over a few years period, aside from one completely dying.

        I am also interested in a cheaper option, I noticed there's ones on AliExpress for under 10 bucks, and since I'm only likely to use them with relatively low wattage appliances (under 100W) there shouldn't be too much strain on them. Anyone have experiences with those? I particularly don't want to spend up kitting my whole house out only to later find I need to redo it with ZigBee, or matter, or whatever next thing comes out in a couple of years, especially since many of these are going to be concealed

        • I'm certainly no expert, I've only tinkered, but I'm semi-confident Tuya devices rely 100% on a cloud connection for all functions… I believe you can use LocalTuya with Home Assistant for local control, but it doesn't seem worth the effort unless you're heavily invested in Tuya devices… Also, I believe you can flash the firmware to something better on 'some' Tuya devices, but it didn't seem possible with my two Tuya based devices.. (Connect SmartHome Smart Monitoring Wifi Plug CSH-PLGPM-001)…

          I was looking at all the AliExpress options but most seem to be Tuya cloud based, so I started looking at Matter and Shelly devices that can be controlled locally, then found this Amazon deal, so I figured it was a good time to test a Shelly device and I figured buying from Amazon I'm likely to get a genuine device, and not a knock-off…

          I really don't have the need to go too wild with home automation, I've purchased this device for an essential purpose, but anything else would just be tinkering, a hobby, and for education really…

  • Are there cheaper versions of these without power metering?

  • +1

    it's now back to $35.84

    • Thanks.

  • Can someone tell me if I need earth wire? I got older house which only has live and got live and neutral.

    • I can't answer your question but I noticed that many of the cheap Chinese ones say you can use them without an earth but you need a capacitor on the neutral, and some provide them (at your own risk, check the documentation provided, I am speaking off hand)

  • Can someone with hands on experience tell us if these devices need earth wire? My house doesn’t seem to have default earth wire.

    • +1

      No, they don't have an earth connection:
      https://www.shelly.com/blogs/documentation/shelly-plus-1pm

      Your house would have an earth to all lights, GPO's, and such, they all do… Back in the old days when they just used twin active/neutral wire they would run a bare copper wire around all the light and power outlets…

      Also, neutral and earths generally aren't run down to light switches, just a red active and a white switch wire, that confuses some people, which is why you should really get an an electrician in to do all fixed wiring…

      • Thanks mate. I thought this would be easy but my sparkie previously had to climb to the roof and get a wire to the plug point. I installed arlec 3 Gan switches. He’s the guy who told me that shelly has switches that requires no earth wire.
        I live in a brick house and can’t imagine the trouble and cost.

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